[SuperSyx]

Hi all,
Since i frequently shoot in humid environment or in the rain I was wondering if I should let my lens dry afterwards. How do you dry the inside of a lens?

I have taken pictures of a underground mine shaft from the bottom water was dripping everywhere. I Used the 18-55 WR for that one but back under the sun I had problems of condensation inside the lens. Maybe I did zoom and I should not have. The Yongnuo flash also survived the rain.

I also left my Samyang 16mm in a swamp, near a lake, all night long to make a time lapse of the milky way. Next morning it was covered in condensation. Nothing happened that time except superb images. Am I just lucky?

[condor27596]

I have experience a lot changing lenses particularly in Florida. Note no fog actually in lens just in camera and on lens. Mostly in camera. I take one of those individually packaged lens wipes and wipe mirror and lens. Then blow in dry air with the can no red straw from 6-10 inches away. Put lens on. This usually clears it. I have had to take eye cup off and blow out the top.

This is when I know critical shots are coming. If I don't have my can I take lens off clean mirror and carry camera around face down 10 minutes.

[Aaron28]

if you were in a shaft there will be a temperature differential......usually 50-60 underground....here it is summer and 90+ so ya prolly need to wait for the lens to adjust to the temperature..........don't really know but throwing it out there anyways

[amoringello]

Just leave it alone for a few hours. It will even out with ambient temp and light condensation will dry out.
If you actually get it wet side (like working too long in pouring rain), put the lens cap on both ends and put it in a Zip-Lock bag with of rice overnight.

I suggest putting the lens caps on because rice is very dusty and you don't want dust in the lens either.
But the rice will till pull moisture out of the lens.

I've been told but haven't checked yet, but to avoid condensation you can keep your lens in a plastic bag. Condensation will form on the bag when significant temperature changes occur. Still need to allow the lens to adjust to ambient temps (30-60 minutes or so), but then you will be ready to go without condensation collecting in the lens.
You just need to think ahead on this one, though. (I never seem to know what is coming up or I don't think about it. So I'm dealing with lens fog in those situations. :-(

[mag07]

I always have some packets of silica gels handy, and make sure the lens goes in the case with a couple after being dried. Works great and removes all fog just fine. I change the packets regularly. That has worked for years, even with non WR equipment.

[promacjoe]

going from a warm environment to a cold environment is not really a problem. However once your camera gets cold, going to a warm environment can almost instantly fog it up. When you go down to a cave, take a Ziploc bag, one big enough to hold your camera and lens. put your camera in the bag, just before you walk out of the cave. having some desiccant bags in that same plastic bag does not hurt at all. Also place any electronic device that you are not currently using in a separate plastic bag, before you enter the cave. Just let your camera warm back up in the bag. condensation from dew can also be a problem. Normally, dew falls just after dusk when the temperature starts to drop. After that you should not have too much of a problem. Fog can also occur around lakes and swamps. The lake/swamp acts like a thermal battery. The cool night air hits it, and any moisture in the air from the lake/swamp, can creates a pocket of fog that can condense on your camera. The best thing you can do is just wrap your camera in a towel, and place a protector filter on it. the filter is optional.

normally, unless you're actively focusing or zooming, they will not be enough moisture in your camera to damage it.

[SuperSyx]

Thanks fo all the answers, I'll try to answer to everyone.

Going inside a cottage after a snowmobile ride, I put my Canon S100 in a sealed bag with desiccant packets to warm up. Condensation on the bag, works like a charm. Will be using this method for underground mines when i do the trip in the ramp from the surface in a jeep in winter (-20 celsius here in winter to 15 underground) Not focusing or zooming like crazy, noted.

Silica gel packets, I have plenty, do you guys recharge them in the oven or just buy new ones? I fear that i will burn the plastic sleeve.

Bag of rice, heard that before for dunked phones or badly sealed waterproof cameras. With the cap on, the moisture will be able to travel to the rice?

About the temperature underground, There is a mine here (Laronde) that is so deep (2.4 km under) that they have massive air conditioning underground. Been there, really hot! It depens witch mine you go and witch level you have to stop.

Copressed air is really dry, I will try to find some baby cans to bring with me.

[amoringello]

Bag of rice, heard that before for dunked phones or badly sealed waterproof cameras. With the cap on, the moisture will be able to travel to the rice?

Yep. If moisture could get in while the lens was on the camera, it will come out with the caps on.
Of course, not as quickly as leaving the lens open but it will work.

I've had to do that a few times while out camping long ago.
It also helps to put the lens in sunlight (but not so hot as to damage the lens) to help get the moisture out of the lens.

Silica packs are likely a better choice if that is an option... but if all you've got is a ma&pop store in some po-dunk little town, a $1 bag of rice will do the job.

[NS_Sailor]

Carrying my cameras on a ship and using them in hot spaces like the engine room, transitioning to the cooler accommodations and out on to a hot or very cold deck I frequently have issues with condensation forming on the optics. When this occurs I try to reacliamatise the camera with the lens cap removed by finding a place to set the camera in an area where a relatively dry and gentle air flow can be directed on the camera, usually the ships ventilation system, and allow the moisture to evaporate off the optics. A blow dryer can be used to aid in the process but the air flow should not be directed right on the camera. Occasionally I would have to clean some dried water droplets off the filter or lens. I also avoid removing the lens unless I suspect moisture has penetrated onto the internal optics at which time I remove the lens and lay the camera face up into the air flow
If it becomes necessary to use some form of mechanical means to remove moisture from the camera It would be better to use a mini vacuum to draw the moisture out of the camera. I do not recommend under any circumstances blowing high velocity air directly on or into the camera from a can of compressed air because this could potentially blow droplets of moisture deeper into the camera or lens causing more problems or damage the internal seals.

[SuperSyx]

Just had an idea. What about putting a usb hand warmer at the bottom of my waterproof bag? May keep the equipment hot and prevent condensation in the underground mine. The less I get my camera out, the less dirty it gets and less chance I have of getting it broken.

[NS_Sailor]

Just had an idea. What about putting a usb hand warmer at the bottom of my waterproof bag? May keep the equipment hot and prevent condensation in the underground mine. The less I get my camera out, the less dirty it gets and less chance I have of getting it broken.

That would defiantly help as the warmer could keep the camera is warmer than the outside atmosphere. In the humid atmosphere of the mine water vapour will defiantly collect on any glass surface that is cooler

[Mothballs]

Yep. If moisture could get in while the lens was on the camera, it will come out with the caps on.
Of course, not as quickly as leaving the lens open but it will work.

I've had to do that a few times while out camping long ago.
It also helps to put the lens in sunlight (but not so hot as to damage the lens) to help get the moisture out of the lens.

Silica packs are likely a better choice if that is an option... but if all you've got is a ma&pop store in some po-dunk little town, a $1 bag of rice will do the job.

Never ever EVER do the rice thing.

EVER.

The moisture will draw the starch from the rice into the lens/camera/Electronics. It can totally foul and ruin anything you try to do this with. Yeah, you might not have any problems, but if you happen to be one of the unlucky ones...

I don't think Starch in your helicoid Lube or on your lens elements is great.

Just get some Silica Packs. A lot of the time any place that sells leather will have tons of the bloody things, as will most warehouses, Tool supply stores and electronic stores, and usually they will just throw them out anyways, as they come in the shipping packages. You'll feel silly for about 30 seconds asking.

[promacjoe]

I found this on YouTube today,

You Tube

You Tube

YouTube search, "How to make your own silica desiccant packs".

Also check out the related videos.

Seems like a good, and cheaper alternative two factory made silicone gel packs.