[pathdoc]

Sometimes all we have is the print, the negatives having long since been lost, and sometimes we have both the print and the negative but only a garden-variety flatbed scanner to work with.

In such situations, what is the best approach regarding settings? I know different scanners have different menu structures, but I'm sure many of the options offered are common to all.

I know there is probably no "best answer", and different people may find different things work for them - I'm happy to look at various approaches and play around with settings myself based on my own internal synthesis of a range of opinions.

[LesDMess]

Since the paper is limited in resolution, color and contrast, any reasonable flatbed scanner should be able to capture all of the info from a print. I have seen some well made prints on super glossy require 600dpi but most I have only require 300dpi.

[photolady95]

I've used this guide in the past. Scroll down the page about mid way, the tutorials start:

Scanning Basics 101 - All about digital images

[MJSfoto1956]

my own opinion: if it is a "normal" everyday flatbed scanner then you probably should avoid scanning film smaller than medium format. More importantly if the print is "good" then use that to scan and you will get a decent scan with very little work. Another alternative: there are many companies now that will scan a sheet of 20 images for $20. Not a bad deal.

Michael

[pathdoc]

Thanks all so far. The vibe I get so far is that 300dpi is good; 600dpi may not give any extra information but cannot hurt; anything above that is probably pointless - and scanning the negatives requires a machine designed for the task.

[MJSfoto1956]

I would definitely go with 600dpi -- the data in an analog print is much greater than 300dpi.

Michael

[reh321]

I have both a flatbed scanner and scanners built especially for negatives / slides. My personal experience, as usual YMMV, has not been good with the flatbed scanner simply because I have a terrible time keeping the glass absolutely clean. Remember, any defect you introduce during scanning will add to PP time afterwards.

Putting those issues aside, my experience also is that you need roughly 3000 x 2000 pixels to produce a scan matching the quality of the original image, at least for the film and lenses I used in the past, so if you're scanning a negative or slide, you need to scan at roughly 2400 dpi, and roughly 600 dpi for a print.

[martinimages]

I sometimes do quick "scan" using a Digital camera preferably DSLR, tape the negs onto a view box (any even diffused light will do, and take a picture of the negative with really good results, worth a try

[pathdoc]

How do you then convert to proper colour?

[martinimages]

In Photoshop, invert and adjust colour , if its a slide no inversion adjust colour

[darbo]

How do you then convert to proper colour?

I actually do this all the time with my k-7. Proper color is pretty easy to find for c-41 films: use an unexposed section of the negative to make a custom white balance. Then when you invert the image, you'll find the colors are pretty close.