[audiobomber]

What would be better, getting a dedicated 90-105-ish macro lens, or DA 50/55-200/300 zoom with Raynox 250?

A dedicated macro lens is easier to use and produces superior results.

[szmatefy]

My first stacking with the Raynox 250 on my k-30 and Tamron 28-75. I see lot of issues, but the experience was so delighting, I must share with you.

[Fresdorf]

Wow why did nobody tell me that it would be nearly impossible to get a sharp photo handheld with Raynox 150 and my Sigma 70-300. But i like the challenge. any way. this is my lousy first stack with Raynox and Sigma 70-300 Apo compilation.

[smf]

I have been having fun with my Raynox 150 on an SMC Pentax DAL 18-55AL 1:3.5-5.6, mounted on a Pentax K-x.

Attached Images

 

[octopussy_france]

Hello Fresdorf,

if you use your raynox with long focal length lens, your magnification goes high.
More the magnification is high, more the deep of field is thin.
So it's very difficult or impossible to get a sharp photography.

You must use short focal length with your 70-300 sigma.
Try to not use your raynox over 150 mm focal length.

If you need more help i will try with my 70-200 mm sigma.

Maybe read you later.

[Fresdorf]

Thank you octopussy. this is my todays try. a crop from 135mm with the same Sigma 70-300 and Raynox150. this time its not a stack.and i think its a bit better but of course it is miles from perfection, but i might as well get to it one day

[minahasa]

Kit 18-55 + 250

[octopussy_france]

Hello Fresdorf,

don't think you will get a high quality photo with sigma 70-300.
The sigma 70-300 is not a high end quality lens.
It's a first price lens and you can get good photos with it but no more.

The big thing interesting about raynox DCR are the low, very low CAs.
I used for the first time raynox DCR 150/250 and MSN 202 with a s9600 fujifilm bridge.
The big trouble with fujifilm bridge it's the no correction of CAs.
Ask to fujifilm if they will one day introduce CAs correction into their bridges and they will answer to you : let the softs do the work.
The CAs become a bigger trouble in s9600 proxi/macro mode.
CAs totally disappeared by using raynox (for proxi/macro) on s9600, it was magic.

According to me raynox lens is the best way to give proxi/macro capability to a no macro lens (such 18-55 etc...).
Better than other full frame lens as marumi... because raynox use achromatic group lenses to build their DCR/MSN.
Raynox manufacture also full frame lens (DCR-5320), the price is higher and higher than DRC 150/250.

The raynox DCR 150/250 are best used with lower focal length than 150/120 and lens with a smaller range focal length such 18-55 / 50-150...


Post scriptum :

I take a look to the EXIT picture.
Beware of aperture, f/11 is too high.
f/8.0-f/9.0 it's better for proxi-macro photos, less diffraction, so greater IQ.
The DOF is so thin that go beyond f/9-f/10 don't give to you a DOF really more important, just a few points better (100 points = 1 inch).

[Fresdorf]

Thank you for you advice and explanation Octopussy. I realize that my sigma 70-300 Apo isn't the best lens. but unfortunately i cant afford a better and more expensive lens. Since macro photography is just a hobby i will try and make as much as i can from my Sigma and Raynox 150. Thats one more shot i hope i will get better one day

[audiobomber]

Thank you for you advice and explanation Octopussy. I realize that my sigma 70-300 Apo isn't the best lens. but unfortunately i cant afford a better and more expensive lens. Since macro photography is just a hobby i will try and make as much as i can from my Sigma and Raynox 150. Thats one more shot i hope i will get better one day

I don't agree with much of what Octopussy said. Small apertures are a necessity for getting reasonable DOF. The Sigma 70-300 APO is known to be softer at 300mm, but has the best control of fringing in its class. There are many examples in this thread showing great results with the 55/70-300mm class of lens.

Fresdorf, keep working on your technique. The gear is good enough for your purposes. You don't always need to go to maximum zoom. Set your lens to infinity focus, use the zoom ring to vary magnification, rock your torso back and forth to achieve focus. With the DCR-150 mounted, you will get 1:1 magnification at approximately 200mm. It's tougher to get good results as magnification increases. Another thing to experiment with is adding light. Even the onboard flash can help, as long as you soften it.

[octopussy_france]

Hello,

Small apertures are a necessity for getting reasonable DOF.

.
I agree with you but close aperture up to f/11 don't give you so much more DOF.
The good range is f/8.0 - f/11, max f/11 because the big trouble if you use aperture as f/11 is diffraction.
You can correct it with smart sharpen / unsharp mask etc.. in photoshop.

The sigma 70-300 APO is not a bad lens, it's a first price lens (less than 200 €) that give you good photos but no more.
APO version got better controlled CAs than other sigma versions.
The sigma is soft beyond 200 mm as 70-300 mm D ED nikon lens, the 70-300 mm canon lens is better (higher price too) but your camera is a nikon.
Tamron 70-300 SP Di VC USD got a better IQ, not so much fall beyond 200 mm, and the CAs are very well controlled.
The price of the tamron is a little higher than the price of the sigma (about 300 €).
With the raynox lens CAs are not a trouble, my s9600 got no CAs in proxi/macro when used with DCR150/250.

One day if you want to change your sigma lens.
Buy theTamron 70-300 SP Di VC USD, higher price but not too high and very good quality.

Your trouble was your technique.
You need to practise more, better control of your sigma + DCR-150 and don't forget photoshop.

To get sharp image don't close under f/8.0 and not beyond f/11 (diffraction), less than f/11 if you can.
Don't use the range beyond 200 mm, what is good is to get 1:2 macro because the DOF is thin at 1:1.
Use manual focus and move slowly to be at good distance from your subject.
You must choose your focus point carefully, DOF is thin so you will point to a little part of your subject.
The only way to get more DOF (DOF that is not thin) is photo stacking.
Too be away from your subject (subjects that are not easy to photography) use long focal but higher is the focal length, smaller is the DOF.

[Fresdorf]

Thank you Audiobomber and Octopussy for your advises, This weekend i was shooting with F11 but next time i'll try wit f8-f9 apertures. I'll post some of my captures later on.

[audiobomber]

This weekend i was shooting with F11 but next time i'll try wit f8-f9 apertures. I'll post some of my captures later on.

Take lots of shots, decide for yourself what apertures are acceptable. If you understand how your gear reacts, you can make an informed decision on aperture, taking into account the available light, acceptable sharpness and DOF required for your subject. Most macro shooters recommend giving up some sharpness for more DOF, at least some of the time.

I used a Tamron 70-300mm at 300mm, with a Raynox 250 for this shot... at f/40. Terrible result, eh?

[Fresdorf]

I used a Tamron 70-300mm at 300mm, with a Raynox 250 for this shot... at f/40. Terrible result, eh?

I dont think it's terrible. But on the other hand i dont think i'm a pro and understand everything .
I hope you dont mind me posting one more of my raynox shots

[valy]

A fly at 200mm + raynox 250 on k IIs: