[Trudger1272]

Hello fellow Pentaxians! My LBA(Lens Buying Addiction) has recently transformed into LBA(Light Buying Addiction) so I now have another question for those who care to respond concerning strobes: I am not really concerned with what type to choose(monolights or power pack) and I've already decided to go with the Dynalite brand. So now what I would like to ask is; what would be a decent amount of W/s(watts per second) to start out with for a two head kit? Any thoughts or suggestions please?
Thanks!

[bmw]

Some questions:
How large is the space you are shooting in?
Lots of high-key, or mostly low-key?
What do you typically shoot?
Do you ever shoot outdoors and need to overpower the sun?

[Trudger1272]

I just completed my first studio class and neglected to ask my teacher this question.

Portraits. Personally I prefer low-key but, will want to experiment. I have an area that I would say at least 10x10 for small stuff still, I do plan to shoot a lot on location so, yes there will be times I'd be contending with the sun. In fact I'd probably shoot more on location being I prefer natural backgrounds.

[dfp771]

Hello fellow Pentaxians! My LBA(Lens Buying Addiction) has recently transformed into LBA(Light Buying Addiction) so I now have another question for those who care to respond concerning strobes: I am not really concerned with what type to choose(monolights or power pack) and I've already decided to go with the Dynalite brand. So now what I would like to ask is; what would be a decent amount of W/s(watts per second) to start out with for a two head kit? Any thoughts or suggestions please?
Thanks!

Every manufacturer has a different method of testing and measuring the watt-second output of their brand of flashes. Some measure bare bulb at 10 ft. Some measure at 6 feet with the standard reflector. This results in big actual differences in output of different brands with the same ratings. However, I think, if you are buying a 2 light kit, anything from 640 to 800 watt-seconds should be more than adequate for most single full length studio shots. For group shots this output may be adequate if you are willing to raise your sensitivity from 80-100 to 200-400 ISO. Of course, the size and type of modifier you use also greatly affects the usable light output of the strobe too.

[tuco]

400WS is pretty good starting point. That should cover a lot what you'd want to do in a studio.

[Trudger1272]

We were using Norman 1200W/s in studio at school but, those kits start out a little pricey. Trying to stay reasonable which is still up there in price, I had to find another option while trying to keep it as beneficial as possible. I also want to be able to strobe at will, without having to book studio time. Getting hooked on the results from strobes takes photography to a completely different level "and I like it."

Thanks again!

[maxfield_photo]

A really important consideration when getting into a studio light setup is light modifiers. Make sure you research the modifiers that are available for the system you intend to buy. Does it have a speed ring for quickly changing modifiers? Is that speed ring universal/open source or proprietary?

Depending on the size of modifiers you intend to use your power needs may vary. It takes more Ws to fill a 4'x6' softbox than a 2'x3' softbox, but you'll get softer light from the larg box. In addition to how much power to buy, you should also consider the filp side of that coin, "how low can I turn the lights down?" I like to keep my subjects a long way from the background, and my lights close to my subjects, so I frequently have to turn the lights down, or shoot at a smaller aperture.

The best advice I can offer you though is this: Never buy a piece of photo gear unless you understand why you need it. What works for someone else might not suit your needs or shooting style.

Here's a video that may help:

Youtu.be

Youtu.be

[Trudger1272]

A really important consideration when getting into a studio light setup is light modifiers. Make sure you research the modifiers that are available for the system you intend to buy. Does it have a speed ring for quickly changing modifiers? Is that speed ring universal/open source or proprietary? Depending on the size of modifiers you intend to use your power needs may vary. It takes more Ws to fill a 4'x6' softbox than a 2'x3' softbox, but you'll get softer light from the larg box. In addition to how much power to buy, you should also consider the filp side of that coin, "how low can I turn the lights down?" I like to keep my subjects a long way from the background, and my lights close to my subjects, so I frequently have to turn the lights down, or shoot at a smaller aperture. The best advice I can offer you though is this: Never buy a piece of photo gear unless you understand why you need it. What works for someone else might not suit your needs or shooting style. Here's a video that may help:

Thanks! This along with the video is some of this best advice I've received here.

[bmw]

Something to consider is the power range of the strobes and that if you like low-key in a small space you can easily spec too much power. The suggestions of 400 w-s or so is a good one, I feel.

That power should also be just sufficient for overpowering the sun as long as you use an efficient modifier, like a silver beauty dish.

[Trudger1272]

Something to consider is the power range of the strobes and that if you like low-key in a small space you can easily spec too much power. The suggestions of 400 w-s or so is a good one, I feel. That power should also be just sufficient for overpowering the sun as long as you use an efficient modifier, like a silver beauty dish.

Oh yeah! I now realize this. Initially I thought the more powerful the better so, now I'm slowing down my research as to acquire as much knowledge as possible before making a purchase. Watching the video, I was impressed with the control I would have with the Profoto D1, but then again, I'm not rich.(lol) For now I'm looking at kits between 400W/s & 800W/s. Trying to find the models with a good range of power control and decent build quality. I won't be buying them until February, maybe even March, so I have plenty of time to research.

[maxfield_photo]

For a small studio something like the Profoto D1 1000 is overkill, the 500Ws model will let you shoot a person from head to toe at f/11, if not f/16. If you are on a budget though, I might look at the Paul Buff Einstein. It's a 640Ws mono light that you can reduce all the way down to 6Ws (I think) [Correction: 2.5Ws]. It also has plenty of light modifiers available from the manufacturer, and several third parties make modifiers that fit the same speed ring. Paul Buff also makes a nice portable lithium ion battery pack if you need to shoot on location. The brand is considered something of a "poor man's" studio light, and owners of fancy Broncolor pack & head systems will look down their noses at you, but you can cry all the way to the bank.

[Trudger1272]

The brand is considered something of a "poor man's" studio light, and owners of fancy Broncolor pack & head systems will look down their noses at you, but you can cry all the way to the bank.

This is no problem, I'm already the only one in the department shooting Pentax.(lol) Everyone else shoot Canons with a few Nikon exceptions. Guess I'll be reading up on the Paul Buff system. ...and yes 1000W/s would be overkill. I'm so glad I posted the question, because I only want to buy what works and the people here have always been so helpful when it comes to decision making. Thanks!

[bmw]

Definitely check out Paul C Buff gear. If you need more nudging have a look at this video on their Cyber Commander:

You Tube

You Tube

I've been researching what studio strobes to get for well over a year and Santa Claus is finally delivering three Einsteins, Cyber Commander + transceivers, Vagabond Mini and some modifiers to me in the next week or so.

[Trudger1272]

I've been researching what studio strobes to get for well over a year and Santa Claus is finally delivering three Einsteins, Cyber Commander + transceivers, Vagabond Mini and some modifiers to me in the next week or so.

Congrats! I know you will enjoy them and God willing I won't be too far behind!

[tuco]

Definitely check out Paul C Buff gear. If you need more nudging have a look at this video on their Cyber Commander: Pierre Andrews - Gear Gab - Paul C. Buff Einstein Strobe and Cyber Commander Review - YouTube

I've been researching what studio strobes to get for well over a year and Santa Claus is finally delivering three Einsteins, Cyber Commander + transceivers, Vagabond Mini and some modifiers to me in the next week or so.

I have the Cyber Commander. It's okay but has a few design problems. One, there is no "ON/OFF" switch. It's in a sleep state always. Your battery will be dead next time you use if 3 months or so go by since last you used it. So you need to take the battery out. Lame.

Secondly, Paul has taken market of the millions approach to designing the thing. That is, save a few cents on a button and that adds up over millions of units sold. Well, that may be great for Paul Buff's profits but it's bad for the end user. There are too many controls that take a combination of button presses that if you remember them it's okay. But go some time without using it and you'll be fumbling around looking for the manual when you'd rather just be using it. So, IMHO, the Commander suffers from no ON/OFF switch and not enough devoted function buttons.