Originally posted by maltfalc a weaker filter will give you shorter exposures, but you'll get more red light and therefore a weaker ir image unless you blow out the red highlights. a less ir sensitive camera will block more ir obviously, so you end up with the same result as using a weaker filter, but with longer exposures. basically, the better the camera is at blocking ir, the stronger the filter you need to block out more red light.
how good the ir blocking filter is will vary from one camera model to the next, so some models are naturally better suited to ir photography than others even without being modified.
Any idea what wavelength i should go for with the k-30?
I really like the false color type infrared photos.
---------- Post added 04-09-14 at 10:26 PM ----------
I'm starting to wonder if the infrared filter i received was fake. Or could this just indicate that i'm doing something wrong? Have a look at this, a clearer image:
I'm using gimp, and after looking up various tutorials, i've tried a few things. Apparently these methods work for some people quite well, i've seen them work in video tutorials, but for me... i get bad results.
Here's the original, unedited image:
Here it is after using gimp's auto white balance, which from what i've heard is great for infrared shots:
As you can see, that doesn't work for me.
Here's the image with the red and blue channels reversed:
It's just blue now. I've experimented with channels, and no matter what i do, it basically just acts like i'm tinting a grayscale image.
Now, here's the interesting bit, here it is converted to grayscale, with curves:
The leaves are all dark... why are the leaves dark? Is the filter i bought fake? Or am i doing something wrong?