Originally posted by acoufap I think the "catch mode" only works with manual lenses. Maybe I'm wrong.
I think you are wrong. It is more complicated than that.
For CiF to work, some prerequisites need to be met.
-You need to choose the right camera AF mode in the Info menu (depends on camera, check manual. AF.S, AF.C, AF.A, not all three work with CiF). A problem is if you use a manual lens and the camera doesn't let you choose the AF mode you want (the box is greyed out). So make sure you chose the right AF mode while you have a regular AF lens mounted. This is basically a mistake that Pentax never figured out. They expect you to use modern lenses and regular AF
-The camera AF/MF button has to be set to AF.
-The lens has to have a mount that shorts the AF contacts (so older plastic lenses, lenses/adapters with painted non-conducting mounts, or adapted lenses that are too narrow to cover the contacts won't work)
-The lens' AF/MF button needs to be set to MF! This is the big one. Most modern lenses don't have an AF/MF switch, so you can't choose MF, its always in AF, and so CiF won't work. This is why the DA kit lenses, DA 35mm and similar won't let you use CiF.
From here comes the confusion that CiF only works with manual lenses. They are preferred - they are always in MF mode and people actually would like some type of AF. And the lenses usually have a big enough metal mount to short the contacts. Modern Samyang primes work as well, as should any Pentax, Sigma lenses with AF/MF switch on them. One other weakness of CiF are ultra wide lenses (like Samyang 14mm) because the DoF tricks the camera to think things are in focus. With those lenses, CiF only works for really close subjects. And really slow lenses (with minimum aperture of 5.6 and higher) might be problematic as well
Once you have those settings and everything, you need to hold the shutter button for the whole duration. You hold the shutter button, but the camera won't actually take a shot until focus is confirmed in the centre AF point. This can happen if something walks into frame or if you twist the focus ring until something becomes in-focus. You can couple this with burst mode.
OH, and regarding SR and panning - yes, SR should be turned off. Feel free to use burst mode and AF.C to maximize your chances. Often for panning a relatively slow shutter speed is used to blur the background more, but with a fast moving subject you might want a fast shutter speed to freeze its movement. With a fast shutter speed, you don't need SR anyway. I generally only turn on SR when taking photos with a slow shutter speed. Otherwise, it can't really help much anyway, but it can cause problems. Good luck, and that photo you posted seems to be on the right track. Panning takes practice and usually works best if the subject is moving parallel to you, not running towards you