Low light and sunsets

Califmike2003 · 07-31-2014, 06:09 AM

Im shooting film thru a Bronica Gs1 and i have the AE metered prism, i want to shoot low light, sunsets. My question is on like a Sunset at the beach with some rocks in the foreground and then water and the sun very low, that to i expose for, the darker foreground, or the bright sky, then underexpose, need some help with this.

I will be shooting BW, color neg, and slide film, any help i would really appriciate.

normhead · 07-31-2014, 06:15 AM

Shooting sunsets, small differences in the angle to the sun can make huge differences in exposure, using digital, I often go plus or minus 3 EV, and then bracket 1.5 stops, at least 3 images, working from a histogram. I'd almost be tempted to try bringing a digital camera along and using it as a light meter. Set the ISO to the equivalent... it's possible they wouldn't line up exactly, that would be predetermined... check the exposures on my iPad to see which one I favoured, then transfer the settings to the film camera.But I hardly ever shot sunsets with film, so my method is probably completely ridiculous.

But I have considered using it with my Pentax 645,,, so I anxiously wait to see if someone gives you something better.

**jbondo** · 07-31-2014, 06:49 AM

Originally posted by normhead

. I'd almost be tempted to try bringing a digital camera along and using it as a light meter. Set the ISO to the equivalent.

Indeed. When possible I mount the film lens on the digital camera for the test shots and then switch it back to film for the real shots. When doing this one has to keep in mind that the digital will have wider dynamic range, but overall I find the technique very helpful.

Dartmoor Dave · 07-31-2014, 09:12 AM - **1 Like**

The classic technique with film is to take an averaged meter reading off the sky with the camera pointing AWAY from the sun. It's the trick I used with Kodachrome for thirty years, still use with digital, and it works every time.

(Depressingly, when you type "Kodachrome" on Pentax Forums these days it gets underlined in red as a spelling mistake.)

**dms** · 07-31-2014, 10:42 AM

(Assuming the sky is the subject.)

And you have a spot meter (in the camera or external, or in your digital camera), meter the brightest sky area you want to be represented on film--but not the sun--and then increase the exposure by about 2.5 stops (e.v.). Maybe bracket (with slide (film) about +1/2 and - 1/2 e.v.; w/ negative may + and - 1, or more). The foreground will be dark--silhouetted--so choose the angle/view so the foreground looks attractive in silhouette.

With an ordinary (wide angle) meter, if the sun is very low/below horizon, just meter the brightest sky and do as above. If the sky is higher up and quite bright, point the meter to sky area that is bright but excludes the sun--and bracket--likely +0.5 and +2 e.v. if slide, +1 and +2 if negative.

If the sun is really low/below horizon, and you have foreground areas of interest (not just in silhouette)--you may also try to meter the brightest sky, and meter the foreground areas you want to show up, and take then bias to the more important area [or average them]. E.g., f/ 16 and f/4 I likely would start w/ f/ 11 [or f/7], and again bracket.

Afterward from the results figure out what to do a bit different next time. I haven't done these kinds of photos (w/o spot meter) in many decades--but the above should be a reasonable starting point.

Califmike2003 · 08-02-2014, 03:28 PM

Thanks guys for all your help, im going to try some of these techniques and see what happens and practice.

07-31-2014, 06:09 AM	#1
Califmike2003 Inactive Account Join Date: Jun 2014 Posts: 29	Low light and sunsets Im shooting film thru a Bronica Gs1 and i have the AE metered prism, i want to shoot low light, sunsets. My question is on like a Sunset at the beach with some rocks in the foreground and then water and the sun very low, that to i expose for, the darker foreground, or the bright sky, then underexpose, need some help with this. I will be shooting BW, color neg, and slide film, any help i would really appriciate.

07-31-2014, 10:42 AM	#5
dms Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: New York, NY Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,192	(Assuming the sky is the subject.) And you have a spot meter (in the camera or external, or in your digital camera), meter the brightest sky area you want to be represented on film--but not the sun--and then increase the exposure by about 2.5 stops (e.v.). Maybe bracket (with slide (film) about +1/2 and - 1/2 e.v.; w/ negative may + and - 1, or more). The foreground will be dark--silhouetted--so choose the angle/view so the foreground looks attractive in silhouette. With an ordinary (wide angle) meter, if the sun is very low/below horizon, just meter the brightest sky and do as above. If the sky is higher up and quite bright, point the meter to sky area that is bright but excludes the sun--and bracket--likely +0.5 and +2 e.v. if slide, +1 and +2 if negative. If the sun is really low/below horizon, and you have foreground areas of interest (not just in silhouette)--you may also try to meter the brightest sky, and meter the foreground areas you want to show up, and take then bias to the more important area [or average them]. E.g., f/ 16 and f/4 I likely would start w/ f/ 11 [or f/7], and again bracket. Afterward from the results figure out what to do a bit different next time. I haven't done these kinds of photos (w/o spot meter) in many decades--but the above should be a reasonable starting point. Last edited by dms; 07-31-2014 at 10:52 AM.

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07-31-2014, 06:15 AM	#2
normhead Pentaxian Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Near Algonquin Park Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 40,451	Shooting sunsets, small differences in the angle to the sun can make huge differences in exposure, using digital, I often go plus or minus 3 EV, and then bracket 1.5 stops, at least 3 images, working from a histogram. I'd almost be tempted to try bringing a digital camera along and using it as a light meter. Set the ISO to the equivalent... it's possible they wouldn't line up exactly, that would be predetermined... check the exposures on my iPad to see which one I favoured, then transfer the settings to the film camera.But I hardly ever shot sunsets with film, so my method is probably completely ridiculous. But I have considered using it with my Pentax 645,,, so I anxiously wait to see if someone gives you something better.

07-31-2014, 06:49 AM	#3
jbondo Loyal Site Supportaxian Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Texas Photos: Albums Posts: 503	Originally posted by normhead . I'd almost be tempted to try bringing a digital camera along and using it as a light meter. Set the ISO to the equivalent. Indeed. When possible I mount the film lens on the digital camera for the test shots and then switch it back to film for the real shots. When doing this one has to keep in mind that the digital will have wider dynamic range, but overall I find the technique very helpful.

07-31-2014, 09:12 AM - 1 Like	#4
Dartmoor Dave Pentaxian Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Dartmoor, UK Photos: Gallery Posts: 3,888	The classic technique with film is to take an averaged meter reading off the sky with the camera pointing AWAY from the sun. It's the trick I used with Kodachrome for thirty years, still use with digital, and it works every time. (Depressingly, when you type "Kodachrome" on Pentax Forums these days it gets underlined in red as a spelling mistake.)

08-02-2014, 03:28 PM	#6
Califmike2003 Inactive Account Join Date: Jun 2014 Posts: 29 Original Poster	Thanks guys for all your help, im going to try some of these techniques and see what happens and practice.