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*Wheatfield* · 12-01-2008, 05:19 PM

Originally Posted by georgweb

jms,
something strange with your avatar, blown white balance maybe :-)

The links that jeffkrol posted are recommending what he said, use a light blue filter (80A,80B) on your DSLR.

I am wondering wether you can achieve the effect of that filter with manual white balance (the linked posts say no on a Nikon DSLR, or a daylight-WB-balanced DSLR for that matter)

Actually I have such a blue filter from the film days cause it was the only thing that helped for my frequent stage shootings.

And yes if I just shoot RAW (+WB tungsten is the coolest I can get) and then push into the blues in PP, all other colors go blueish. Especially black clothes get very purple.

So, I will try next time manual WB on some reddish stage lights or whitish surfaces lit by those lights (+RAW). And I'll take the blue filter, but it is only 55mm and the lens is 86mm :-) And it will eat another stop of light. Do I need a fullframe easy peasy 3200ISO DSLR? ДڪЖڮЮڴ☼њ♣♫

Here's what it looks like with RAW+tungstenWB with PP-corrected skins (that is the best I could get, originally the faces are red smudge). K100D with 200/2.8 lens. Of course dimly lit stages with yellow-reddish lamps are not of benefit :-(

The fix it in post have got it wrong in my experience. Sensors are "daylight balanced" in their native colour sensitivity range. You move outside that range, and white balance will pick up the slack to a point, in much the same way that with film, the printer could give you a reasonably acceptable print in some situations where you moved outside the film's spectrum of acceptability.
Move to far away from what the camera can accommodate, and you will likely never be able to get an acceptable white balance.

Colour correction filters still have a place in the photographer's kit. You can usually get an acceptable RAW conversion most of the time with white balance adjustment, but you will always get a better one if the light hitting the filter is as close to daylight as you can manage.
My filter kit still has both an 80A and an FlD filter in it for this reason.

12-01-2008, 05:19 PM	#5
Wheatfield Site Supporter Location: The wheatfields of Canada Gallery Photos: 0 Posts: 3,568	Originally Posted by georgweb jms, something strange with your avatar, blown white balance maybe :-) The links that jeffkrol posted are recommending what he said, use a light blue filter (80A,80B) on your DSLR. I am wondering wether you can achieve the effect of that filter with manual white balance (the linked posts say no on a Nikon DSLR, or a daylight-WB-balanced DSLR for that matter) Actually I have such a blue filter from the film days cause it was the only thing that helped for my frequent stage shootings. And yes if I just shoot RAW (+WB tungsten is the coolest I can get) and then push into the blues in PP, all other colors go blueish. Especially black clothes get very purple. So, I will try next time manual WB on some reddish stage lights or whitish surfaces lit by those lights (+RAW). And I'll take the blue filter, but it is only 55mm and the lens is 86mm :-) And it will eat another stop of light. Do I need a fullframe easy peasy 3200ISO DSLR? ДڪЖڮЮڴ☼њ♣♫ Here's what it looks like with RAW+tungstenWB with PP-corrected skins (that is the best I could get, originally the faces are red smudge). K100D with 200/2.8 lens. Of course dimly lit stages with yellow-reddish lamps are not of benefit :-( The fix it in post have got it wrong in my experience. Sensors are "daylight balanced" in their native colour sensitivity range. You move outside that range, and white balance will pick up the slack to a point, in much the same way that with film, the printer could give you a reasonably acceptable print in some situations where you moved outside the film's spectrum of acceptability. Move to far away from what the camera can accommodate, and you will likely never be able to get an acceptable white balance. Colour correction filters still have a place in the photographer's kit. You can usually get an acceptable RAW conversion most of the time with white balance adjustment, but you will always get a better one if the light hitting the filter is as close to daylight as you can manage. My filter kit still has both an 80A and an FlD filter in it for this reason.