[geotux]

Hi,

the proud owner of a K-3 for a few months, I now want to start thinking of using some old equipement that I posses from my SLR days. I have a Vivitar 2600 flash. I've searched the web and have learnt that the trigger voltage could fry my camera. Even worse if the flash has reverse polarity.

I searched for the flash manual online and found that it actually doesnàt help as neither these details are listed. I've also figured out that I don't need to connect it physically but that I could use a Wein sensor to trigger the flash remotely. Any advice on what you think the best approach is? I also seem to understand that you can use these Wein Safe sync hot shoe adapters but I've read that many people have trouble with using them (the flash doesn't trigger).

I also have a couple of CPC lenses that I was using on my Chinon. A 280mm and a 28mm. It would be good if I could use these on my K3 but I'm concerned again about contacts. The camera body has loads of contacts on its mount while the lenses barely have a couple. Is there some sort of intermediate ring to be used?

Thanks for your help in advance.

Regards

---------- Post added 11-27-15 at 05:19 PM ----------

Hi,

the proud owner of a K-3 for a few months, I now want to start thinking of using some old equipement that I posses from my SLR days. I have a Vivitar 2600 flash. I've searched the web and have learnt that the trigger voltage could fry my camera. Even worse if the flash has reverse polarity.

I searched for the flash manual online and found that it actually doesnàt help as neither these details are listed. I've also figured out that I don't need to connect it physically but that I could use a Wein sensor to trigger the flash remotely. Any advice on what you think the best approach is? I also seem to understand that you can use these Wein Safe sync hot shoe adapters but I've read that many people have trouble with using them (the flash doesn't trigger).

I also have a couple of CPC lenses that I was using on my Chinon. A 280mm and a 28mm. It would be good if I could use these on my K3 but I'm concerned again about contacts. The camera body has loads of contacts on its mount while the lenses barely have a couple. Is there some sort of intermediate ring to be used?

Thanks for your help in advance.

Regards

Mmm, for the flash bit of my post, it seems like i need something like this "Cactus Cactus V5 Duo". Correct?

[jatrax]

I searched for the flash manual online and found that it actually doesnàt help as neither these details are listed. I've also figured out that I don't need to connect it physically but that I could use a Wein sensor to trigger the flash remotely. Any advice on what you think the best approach is? I also seem to understand that you can use these Wein Safe sync hot shoe adapters but I've read that many people have trouble with using them (the flash doesn't trigger).

Best thing is to actually test the trigger voltage your flash uses. 12v and less should be OK, higher than that is problematic. Higher than 24v is a definite no-no. According to this chart: Photo Strobe Trigger Voltages your flash uses 148v. IMHO the best course of action here is throw it out and get a cheap manual flash if you want. It just is not worth the risk to try and use this when a new manual flash can be had for less $100 and a used one that is safe for $25.

I also have a couple of CPC lenses that I was using on my Chinon. A 280mm and a 28mm. It would be good if I could use these on my K3 but I'm concerned again about contacts. The camera body has loads of contacts on its mount while the lenses barely have a couple. Is there some sort of intermediate ring to be used?

If the lenses are k-mount they will work. If they have contacts (at least one) they will work as an "A" lens which means with automatic exposure. Read this: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/58-troubleshooting-beginner-help/110658-u...x-dslrs-f.html It has details you will need before using those lenses.

[baro-nite]

Re the Vivitar 2600, according to this list it is not safe with modern cameras. I think a Cactus trigger would be fine but I haven't tested it with such a flash.

Regarding lens contacts, A-type lenses don't need a full set of contacts, just the ones that need to be insulated. For example, my Pentax-A 1:2.8 24mm has two insulating nubs (plus the "A" pin) but no other contacts. The "Ricoh pin" is the only thing you need to worry about here.

Welcome to the forum!

[geotux]

Re the Vivitar 2600, according to this list it is not safe with modern cameras. I think a Cactus trigger would be fine but I haven't tested it with such a flash.

Regarding lens contacts, A-type lenses don't need a full set of contacts, just the ones that need to be insulated. For example, my Pentax-A 1:2.8 24mm has two insulating nubs (plus the "A" pin) but no other contacts. The "Ricoh pin" is the only thing you need to worry about here.

Welcome to the forum!

Ok People, thanks for your help so far. I think I may go for the Cactus which will yes cost me same as a new cheap flash but at least I have remote control when I do decide to buy a better flash.

Regarding the lens, the front says:CPC Auto 28mm Macro CCT 1:2.8 52mm No. 930752

Difficult to understand how many contacts. There seem to be at least 4: 2 look brass contacts, two look whitish which suggests plastic. THe camera body has a huge amount of contacts. Won't they short circuit if I sling the lens on the body?

[baro-nite]

Difficult to understand how many contacts. There seem to be at least 4: 2 look brass contacts, two look whitish which suggests plastic. THe camera body has a huge amount of contacts. Won't they short circuit if I sling the lens on the body?

Nope. You can mount a fully manual lens on your camera, just a bare metal lens mount, won't hurt anything. Except maybe your wallet if you get addicted to buying classic lenses.

If you want to know what all the various contacts mean, see Bojiar's K-mount page.

[geotux]

Hi All,

so I did some research and although i don't think I got very far i have understood the following:

a) the CPC lense is a pure "K" mount lense, to be precise it appears to be exactly this lense CPC 28mm, f/2.8 macro MC AUTO CCT Lens Reviews - Miscellaneous Lenses - Pentax Lens Review Database which is a PKA/KR mount;

b) the body of the Pentax K3 has a KAF2 mount;

c) I attached the two and found i was about to get a heart attack because the lense would not unscrew. NOw I have found that it appears to be due to the fact that the lense has a Ricoh pin (theatre of noise: Ricoh Lenses On Pentax Cameras -- The Ricoh Pin Fix) which i believe i need to remove.

d) i'm still not clear as two whether the two piece are compatible as the PKA/KR mount does not appear in this list The Pentax Camera Lens Compatibility Chart so surely this PKA/KR mount is not a PENTAX mount?

I think i'm going to have a go at taking out that pin and hopefully the two will work together.

Do you think I am risking breaking my camera?

CHeers

---------- Post added 12-02-15 at 05:20 PM ----------

Hi All,

so I did some research and although i don't think I got very far i have understood the following:

a) the CPC lense is a pure "K" mount lense, to be precise it appears to be exactly this lense CPC 28mm, f/2.8 macro MC AUTO CCT Lens Reviews - Miscellaneous Lenses - Pentax Lens Review Database which is a PKA/KR mount;

b) the body of the Pentax K3 has a KAF2 mount;

c) I attached the two and found i was about to get a heart attack because the lense would not unscrew. NOw I have found that it appears to be due to the fact that the lense has a Ricoh pin (theatre of noise: Ricoh Lenses On Pentax Cameras -- The Ricoh Pin Fix) which i believe i need to remove.

d) i'm still not clear as two whether the two piece are compatible as the PKA/KR mount does not appear in this list The Pentax Camera Lens Compatibility Chart so surely this PKA/KR mount is not a PENTAX mount?

I think i'm going to have a go at taking out that pin and hopefully the two will work together.

Do you think I am risking breaking my camera?

CHeers

Hi,

tried removing the Ricoh pin (it's the one at 6:35 on the right image) and now the lense locks nicely in place on the camera body. Tried taking some photos and it all works fine. I now have a macro lense ... urah!

Antonio

[geotux]

Well,

maybe I called victory too early. It is shooting photos but I can't get it to read the aperture and it's just showing two dashes -- no matter what mode i set on the camera. Any clues?

Cheers

[baro-nite]

I can't get it to read the aperture and it's just showing two dashes -- no matter what mode i set on the camera. Any clues?

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/54-pentax-lens-articles/110657-how-use-me...k-x-k-7-a.html

(The "Using Aperture Ring" setting is the key.)

[RKKS08]

It is shooting photos but I can't get it to read the aperture and it's just showing two dashes -- no matter what mode i set on the camera. Any clues?

This lens (as any pre KAF mount lens) has no means to tell a Pentax DSLR body what aperture you have set manually, so it cannot display this value.
Neither on the sceen, nor in the viewfinder, nor in Exif.

But you will still get correctly exposed pictures if you use "stop down" metering, as described.
In "M" mode of the body only! Sorry, this lens has contacts.

Edit:
This lens was prepared to be used on Pentax and Ricoh SLR bodies.
However, automatic control of aperture was handled differently by the two companies. So, despite the fact that the lens was prepared for aperture control from the SLR body, this feature may have been designed for the Ricoh procedure (that's what the pin was for). So, on a Pentax DSLR you probably have to use it not as an "A", but a "M" lens. Then you have to mind the lines I have killed above.

[baro-nite]

Sorry, this lens has contacts.

Ah, right. So it's a simple matter of turning the aperture ring to the "A" setting.

[geotux]

Ok, I now think I understand what the "A" lense means. Correct me if I'm wrong. Basically, the lense has an (A)P on the diaphrame ring.

When the following conditions are true:

a) the setting on the DSRL is set to "Using Aperture Ring" setting;
b) the programme of the camera is set to "M" (Manual setting);
c) the diaphrame ring is set to (A)P,

then the following happens:

1) I can set the f setting via the back wheel on the camera body of my K3 (it shows F-- if the lense is NOT set to (A)P) and the f setting actually shows on the camera screen,
2) I can set shutter speed via the front wheel.

I can actually see the effects of changing only the f setting via the back wheel (so NOT by turning the diaphrame ring), in terms of exposure. Does this mean that the camera is actually able to adjust the diaphrame automatically, as I'm not even touching the ring? Is this what "stop down" means?

geotux

[Just1MoreDave]

The lens should have an A or A(P) setting on the aperture ring, next to the largest f number. That setting makes an electrical connection between probably the brass-colored pin at about 4:30 am on your photo and a pin on the camera body. On some lenses the contact pin moves in and out when the aperture ring is moved on or off the A position. Anyway, the connection tells the camera to control the aperture blades itself. The camera gets basic information about the lens from the other contacts - just what the "wide open" and "fully closed" apertures are. Then it can show the correct numbers on the camera displays, move the aperture blades properly and calculate metering information. With that data, the camera can use all its modes. The only limitation is that you have to focus.

When the camera displays show F--, the camera has no aperture data about the lens. In all the modes except M, the camera will keep the aperture fully open when you shoot, ignoring any aperture ring setting. In M mode, if you enable using aperture ring, the camera will use the aperture ring setting when you take a shot. It can also meter, usually with the green button. To get a meter reading, the camera stops down the lens temporarily, measures light, then opens it again. That will calculate a shutter speed for you.

If you get the A position working, there are few reasons to move it off A.

[baro-nite]

When the following conditions are true:

a) the setting on the DSRL is set to "Using Aperture Ring" setting;
b) the programme of the camera is set to "M" (Manual setting);
c) the diaphrame ring is set to (A)P,

then the following happens:

1) I can set the f setting via the back wheel on the camera body of my K3 (it shows F-- if the lense is NOT set to (A)P) and the f setting actually shows on the camera screen,
2) I can set shutter speed via the front wheel.

I can actually see the effects of changing only the f setting via the back wheel (so NOT by turning the diaphrame ring), in terms of exposure. Does this mean that the camera is actually able to adjust the diaphrame automatically, as I'm not even touching the ring? Is this what "stop down" means?

All you need to do is put the lens's aperture ring to the "A" (or "P", if that's how it's labeled on your lens) to get full aperture control from the camera. The "Using Aperture Ring" setting is only needed for lenses without the "A" setting (i.e., M-series and so-called K-series lenses). You can then any of your camera's exposure modes (except you don't get full function in P or Green mode).

Yes, the camera will now operate the diaphragm automatically.

"Stop down" has two somewhat different meanings. As in "stop-down metering", AKA Green Button metering, it means actually engaging the diaphragm actuator to close the iris, so that the camera can take an exposure reading. With a Pentax DSLR you need to do this if you have an M or K lens mounted and if you want to use the camera's light meter.

More generally, "stopping down" simply means setting a smaller aperture (higher f-number), whether you do this by turning the lens's aperture ring or by changing the camera setting. One of the big advances in SLR technology (many years ago) was open-aperture metering. The diaphragm remains wide open until you click the shutter release, giving you a nice bright view in the viewfinder the entire time. The camera can meter correctly even with the lens wide open because it knows the aperture setting. With early cameras (such as Pentax K and M bodies) this was because of a physical coupling between the camera and the aperture ring. Starting with the A series, there is also an electrical connection giving the camera information about the lens. Starting with the FA series there is an additional electronic connection, giving still more information. And starting with the DA (digital) series, Pentax stopped including the physical coupling. This causes much gnashing of teeth among some of us who would like to be able to use K and M lenses with open-aperture metering on our DSLRs.

[RKKS08]

You have to experiment whether the "A" setting on the aperture ring of the lens does what it would with original Pentax lenses.

It is possible, but I am not convinced, as this seems to be a lens for dual use with the Ricoh and the Pentax system.
And, as said before, the Ricoh system of aperture control from the camera worked different from the Pentax system.

If you cannot get it properly working with "A" setting, handle it as a "M" lens (aperture setting on the lens, camera mode to "M", green button for stop down metering).

[geotux]

On some lenses the contact pin moves in and out when the aperture ring is moved on or off the A position.

You are correct. That is exactly what happens.

In all the modes except M, the camera will keep the aperture fully open when you shoot, ignoring any aperture ring setting. In M mode, if you enable using aperture ring, the camera will use the aperture ring setting when you take a shot. It can also meter, usually with the green button. To get a meter reading, the camera stops down the lens temporarily, measures light, then opens it again. That will calculate a shutter speed for you.

Right, this is what I have tried on my K3:
a) When on M mode, have aperture ring set and lense on "A" mode, then I can use the back wheel to set the f value.

b) When on M mode, have aperture ring set and lense on any value except "A", I get F-- on the screen but when I press the green button, the finder goes black a tiny bit and the shutter speed gets set to a specfic value (but the screen still shows F--). If i change the f value on the lense by turning the ring and press the green button again, the shutter speed changes. I assume that this means that there is metering going on. I assume this means that the mirror is raise so that the light corresponding to the aperture can hit the sensor to obtain metering (this is what is meant by "stops down the lens temporarily"?)?

c) The behaviour I describe in b above does not occur on any other camera setting other than "M" mode, even when I put the lense on "A". THe green button seems to have no effect at all unless the camera setting is on "M".

If you get the A position working, there are few reasons to move it off A.

Now this is what I don't understand from your post. What I have asked myself is what difference is there with having camera on "M", lense on "A" and then using the wheel to select aperture and leaving camera on "M", selecting a setting for apearture on the lense ring and then pressing the green button. From what I see, the only difference is that you do not need to set the shutter speed with the front wheel when not using the "A" on the lense. Anything else I'm missing?