DIY B&W Film Fix(-er) recipe?

ytterbium · 03-23-2010, 11:18 AM

Is there any easily obtainable/mixable recipe for a black and white film fixer. The thing you use after developer. I had no luck with google. There are numerous developers, commercial and mixable from common chemicals, but none even mentions fixers.

I'm asking since mostly i'm using b&w film for fun and experiments, so repeatability and quality are not important. Even more importantly, the only non-professional film shop is ridiculously overpriced and is out of fixer most of the time.

Probably, i could figure out, what nasty stuff i could use by researching the chemical process of film fixing. Still i was hoping there are some well known mixtures i'm not aware of (similar as paRodinal, from developers). Any keywords or links are welcome.
Currently, it seems that my agfa age fix i've run out of, smells a bit like vinegar.

Is it worth trying (the vinegar)?

JeffJS · 03-23-2010, 11:27 AM

Originally posted by ytterbium

Is there any easily obtainable/mixable recipe for a black and white film fixer. The thing you use after developer. I had no luck with google. There are numerous developers, commercial and mixable from common chemicals, but none even mentions fixers.

I'm asking since mostly i'm using b&w film for fun and experiments, so repeatability and quality are not important. Even more importantly, the only non-professional film shop is ridiculously overpriced and is out of fixer most of the time.

Probably, i could figure out, what nasty stuff i could use by researching the chemical process of film fixing. Still i was hoping there are some well known mixtures i'm not aware of (similar as paRodinal, from developers). Any keywords or links are welcome.
Currently, it seems that my agfa age fix i've run out of, smells a bit like vinegar.

Is it worth trying (the vinegar)?

Fixer is pretty cheap as are most other B&W chemicals (compared to sending them to pro labs).. If you insist, google turns this up..

Jack's Photographic and Chemistry Site

ytterbium · 03-23-2010, 12:02 PM

Thank you very much. Btw, a combo of 0.5L Fix +0.5L Rodinal was >~40$. And they are not sold separately. Knowing that you use fix in 1:5...9 ratios and rodinal in 1:25...100, you can imagine what the outcome is. And i have a very uneconomical tank.

Since they are chemicalls you cannot simply order some from eBay.

I havent researched prices in trash market, where you can often get old/film/analogue/metal stuff. Do fixers have big damage from prolonged storage (probably something along 20+ years).

wildlifephotog · 03-23-2010, 12:23 PM

Read through this recipe. Pool supply houses may sell the chemical in your area.
Non-toxic pinhole image developer

BTW, we can get any film chemical on USA ebay. That's where I get all mine.

ytterbium · 03-23-2010, 12:31 PM

Quote:

BTW, we can get any film chemical on USA ebay. That's where I get all mine.

Yup, iv'e seen it (jealous). The problem is that customs and international shippers are not very keen on small hazardous packages

. Thanks for the link, really appreciate it. Yay, i have the same tank as shown at the bottom!

Btw. Can fixer be reused? I haven't seen any notes on fixer expirations or storage, no idea. I only know for sure that rodinal is instant usage.
If it can, how do you know if it's expired or lost potency ("used"). What to do if you take your film out and its not fixed enough?
Currently i dump it the same as i do with developer.

wildlifephotog · 03-23-2010, 12:41 PM

And if you can track down small amounts of the chemicals. Here is a recipe that may work for you.

Kodak Fixing Bath F-6
Odorless Bath for Films, Plates, and Papers
Water, about 50 Celsius (125° F.) 600 ml
Sodium Thiosulfate (Hypo) 240 g
Sodium Sulfite, desiccated 15 g
* Acetic Acid, 28% 48 ml
Kodalk 15 g
Potassium Alum 15 g
Cold water to make 1 liter

* To make approximately 28% acetic acid from glacial acetic acid, dilute three parts of glacial acetic acid with eight parts of water.
Dissolve chemicals in order given. To prevent sulfurization, mix the potassium alum separately in a small amount of hot water then add this last with rapid stirring.
This bath should be used in conjunction with a stop bath such as Kodak Stop Bath SB-1 or Kodak Stop Bath SB-1a, or an acid hardening bath such as Kodak Hardening Bath SB-3 to obtain the full useful hardening life. The hardening life (capacity) is equal to that of Kodak Fixing Bath F-5 provided an acid stop bath is used. With a water rinse the life is about one-half that of Kodak Fixing Bath F-5.
The hardener may also be mixed separately as a stock solution as detailed in Kodak Hardener F-6a.

Kodak Hardener F-6a
Stock Solution For Preparing Kodak Fixing Bath F-6
Water, about 50 Celsius (125° F.) 600 ml
Sodium Sulfite, desiccated 75.0 g
* Acetic Acid, 28% 235.0 ml
Kodalk 75.0 g
Potassium Alum 75.0 g
Cold water to make 1.0 liter

* To make approximately 28% acetic acid from glacial acetic acid, dilute three parts of glacial acetic acid with eight parts of water.
Dissolve chemicals in order given.
Add one part of the cool stock hardener solution slowly to 4 parts of cool 30% hypo solution (2.5 pounds per gallon of solution), while stirring the hypo rapidly

stevebrot · 03-23-2010, 12:45 PM

From Ansel Adams, The Negative, page 256...

Kodak F-5 (acid hardening fixer)

Water (125F/52C) 20 fl oz/600 ml
Sodium thiosulfate (hypo) 8 oz/240 gm
Sodium sulfite, dessic. 0.5 oz/15 gm
Acetic acid (28%) 1.5 fl oz/48mm
Boric acid (crystal) 0.25 oz/7.5 gm
Potassium alum 0.5 oz/15 gm
Cold water to make 32 oz/1000 ml

Mix in the order given. The temperature will drop rapidly as the hypo (sodium thiosulfate) is mixed in the warm water. If the acid is added before the sulfite is completely dissolved in the hypo solution, the latter will be irrevocably precipitated.

Steve

stevebrot · 03-23-2010, 12:51 PM

Originally posted by ytterbium

Btw. Can fixer be reused? I haven't seen any notes on fixer expirations or storage, no idea. I only know for sure that rodinal is instant usage.
If it can, how do you know if it's expired or lost potency ("used"). What to do if you take your film out and its not fixed enough?
Currently i dump it the same as i do with developer.

Fixer can be reused on a limited basis. For small tank development of film, I generally always use fresh. For photo print paper (when I last did prints), I reused. Damn if I can remember the capacity before dumping though!

As for expiration...Fixer is fairly stable over time, though it does eventually go bad. I had a couple of jugs on a shelf for more than a year and when I finally dumped them, most of the sulfur from the thiosulfate had precipitated out and was coating the inside of the container.

Steve

03-23-2010, 11:18 AM	#1
ytterbium Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 1,076	DIY B&W Film Fix(-er) recipe? Is there any easily obtainable/mixable recipe for a black and white film fixer. The thing you use after developer. I had no luck with google. There are numerous developers, commercial and mixable from common chemicals, but none even mentions fixers. I'm asking since mostly i'm using b&w film for fun and experiments, so repeatability and quality are not important. Even more importantly, the only non-professional film shop is ridiculously overpriced and is out of fixer most of the time. Probably, i could figure out, what nasty stuff i could use by researching the chemical process of film fixing. Still i was hoping there are some well known mixtures i'm not aware of (similar as paRodinal, from developers). Any keywords or links are welcome. Currently, it seems that my agfa age fix i've run out of, smells a bit like vinegar. Is it worth trying (the vinegar)?

03-23-2010, 12:31 PM	#5
ytterbium Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 1,076 Original Poster	Quote: BTW, we can get any film chemical on USA ebay. That's where I get all mine. Yup, iv'e seen it (jealous). The problem is that customs and international shippers are not very keen on small hazardous packages . Thanks for the link, really appreciate it. Yay, i have the same tank as shown at the bottom! Btw. Can fixer be reused? I haven't seen any notes on fixer expirations or storage, no idea. I only know for sure that rodinal is instant usage. If it can, how do you know if it's expired or lost potency ("used"). What to do if you take your film out and its not fixed enough? Currently i dump it the same as i do with developer. Last edited by ytterbium; 04-02-2010 at 12:33 PM.

03-23-2010, 12:45 PM	#7
stevebrot Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Vancouver (USA) Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 42,007	From Ansel Adams, The Negative, page 256... Kodak F-5 (acid hardening fixer) Water (125F/52C) 20 fl oz/600 ml Sodium thiosulfate (hypo) 8 oz/240 gm Sodium sulfite, dessic. 0.5 oz/15 gm Acetic acid (28%) 1.5 fl oz/48mm Boric acid (crystal) 0.25 oz/7.5 gm Potassium alum 0.5 oz/15 gm Cold water to make 32 oz/1000 ml Mix in the order given. The temperature will drop rapidly as the hypo (sodium thiosulfate) is mixed in the warm water. If the acid is added before the sulfite is completely dissolved in the hypo solution, the latter will be irrevocably precipitated. Steve

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03-23-2010, 11:27 AM	#2
JeffJS Inactive Account Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Michigan, USA Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 7,484	Originally posted by ytterbium Is there any easily obtainable/mixable recipe for a black and white film fixer. The thing you use after developer. I had no luck with google. There are numerous developers, commercial and mixable from common chemicals, but none even mentions fixers. I'm asking since mostly i'm using b&w film for fun and experiments, so repeatability and quality are not important. Even more importantly, the only non-professional film shop is ridiculously overpriced and is out of fixer most of the time. Probably, i could figure out, what nasty stuff i could use by researching the chemical process of film fixing. Still i was hoping there are some well known mixtures i'm not aware of (similar as paRodinal, from developers). Any keywords or links are welcome. Currently, it seems that my agfa age fix i've run out of, smells a bit like vinegar. Is it worth trying (the vinegar)? Fixer is pretty cheap as are most other B&W chemicals (compared to sending them to pro labs).. If you insist, google turns this up.. Jack's Photographic and Chemistry Site

03-23-2010, 12:02 PM	#3
ytterbium Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 1,076 Original Poster	Thank you very much. Btw, a combo of 0.5L Fix +0.5L Rodinal was >~40$. And they are not sold separately. Knowing that you use fix in 1:5...9 ratios and rodinal in 1:25...100, you can imagine what the outcome is. And i have a very uneconomical tank. Since they are chemicalls you cannot simply order some from eBay. I havent researched prices in trash market, where you can often get old/film/analogue/metal stuff. Do fixers have big damage from prolonged storage (probably something along 20+ years).

03-23-2010, 12:23 PM	#4
wildlifephotog Inactive Account Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: USA Posts: 924	Read through this recipe. Pool supply houses may sell the chemical in your area. Non-toxic pinhole image developer BTW, we can get any film chemical on USA ebay. That's where I get all mine.

03-23-2010, 12:41 PM	#6
wildlifephotog Inactive Account Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: USA Posts: 924	And if you can track down small amounts of the chemicals. Here is a recipe that may work for you. Kodak Fixing Bath F-6 Odorless Bath for Films, Plates, and Papers Water, about 50 Celsius (125° F.) 600 ml Sodium Thiosulfate (Hypo) 240 g Sodium Sulfite, desiccated 15 g * Acetic Acid, 28% 48 ml Kodalk 15 g Potassium Alum 15 g Cold water to make 1 liter * To make approximately 28% acetic acid from glacial acetic acid, dilute three parts of glacial acetic acid with eight parts of water. Dissolve chemicals in order given. To prevent sulfurization, mix the potassium alum separately in a small amount of hot water then add this last with rapid stirring. This bath should be used in conjunction with a stop bath such as Kodak Stop Bath SB-1 or Kodak Stop Bath SB-1a, or an acid hardening bath such as Kodak Hardening Bath SB-3 to obtain the full useful hardening life. The hardening life (capacity) is equal to that of Kodak Fixing Bath F-5 provided an acid stop bath is used. With a water rinse the life is about one-half that of Kodak Fixing Bath F-5. The hardener may also be mixed separately as a stock solution as detailed in Kodak Hardener F-6a. Kodak Hardener F-6a Stock Solution For Preparing Kodak Fixing Bath F-6 Water, about 50 Celsius (125° F.) 600 ml Sodium Sulfite, desiccated 75.0 g * Acetic Acid, 28% 235.0 ml Kodalk 75.0 g Potassium Alum 75.0 g Cold water to make 1.0 liter * To make approximately 28% acetic acid from glacial acetic acid, dilute three parts of glacial acetic acid with eight parts of water. Dissolve chemicals in order given. Add one part of the cool stock hardener solution slowly to 4 parts of cool 30% hypo solution (2.5 pounds per gallon of solution), while stirring the hypo rapidly

03-23-2010, 12:51 PM	#8
stevebrot Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Vancouver (USA) Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 42,007	Originally posted by ytterbium Btw. Can fixer be reused? I haven't seen any notes on fixer expirations or storage, no idea. I only know for sure that rodinal is instant usage. If it can, how do you know if it's expired or lost potency ("used"). What to do if you take your film out and its not fixed enough? Currently i dump it the same as i do with developer. Fixer can be reused on a limited basis. For small tank development of film, I generally always use fresh. For photo print paper (when I last did prints), I reused. Damn if I can remember the capacity before dumping though! As for expiration...Fixer is fairly stable over time, though it does eventually go bad. I had a couple of jugs on a shelf for more than a year and when I finally dumped them, most of the sulfur from the thiosulfate had precipitated out and was coating the inside of the container. Steve