New Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Las Vegas | Ansel Adams Zone System
I have a great respect for someone like dosdan,
He is a photographer first, but also technical like Ansel Adams was.
Mr Adams is the father of photography in my mind.
(not the camera, or the process, but the capture, negative and the print )
Composition, exposure, dark room.
Dosdan pre computers, the Zone system was so wonderful,
ten zones, black to white, etc.
With color and digital and computers, we are now easily more able to be precise and numerical.
The nice choice of using LV to learn a 'zone system' is,, it makes math to exposures easier. ( especially with digital or Hasselblad ( EV locking lenses )
Once dan learns to read a scene, LV 9 LV 12 LV 15, he will then be able to say,
I want to make this exposure setting,
and he can even go to saying it IS a LV 12 scene, but, I am capturing the shadows ( low lights ) which are a LV 9 so, I will shoot for that.
or,, I want the highlights at LV 15 so I will shoot for that.
One note I would make is, with transparencies ( my preferred ) or digital,
it is KEY to learn this one thing.
Meter ( expose for the highlights you desire ( the brightest thing you want to see in the picture ) and develop for low lights ( shadows ) (the darkest thing you want to see.
In High contrast scenarios, back light, dark shadows, landscapes, this is a KEY thing
in low contrast shots it is not so key.
The reason for doing this ( like anything 'should do' recommendation, is
once a object is 'blown out' bleached, washed burned out too much in a flim transparency or a digital image, it is gone.
If 1 is black, and 256 is white ( 8 bit ) or 512 or 1024
then once you make an object a 256,, if you 'brighten' the picture in the (digital photoshop) darkroom, it is still a white,,, you CAN make it a grey,, but not a blue or yellow or whatever shade it was.
however, if your whites (chlorox brights ) are 230, or 240,
and your darks are, 0.001, or 0.1 or 1.1
you can brighten those 'shadows' in a darkroom and enhance the shadow detail.
blown out details are LOST forever, dim details CAN be enhanced.
so,, what is the point?
1 you want to shoot an object, it is a LV 12, but backlite by LV 17,, what do you do,,
shoot LV 12
2 you have a landscapes with cool shadow detailed moss, as LV6 and landscape at LV 12 and a great sky at LV 14, what do you do?
shoot for the LV 14,, then develop and enhance your shadows, burn and dodge and white black adjust exposure to bring out shadows.
3 you have a night scene, with deep blue sky, it is LV 4, you want to make an artistic pic, and overexpose it to look daytime, not caring about highlights or shadows.
take your LV4 and shoot it as LV 2, you get a daytime scene from nighttime.
the first step is to learn the ZONE, (or in dan's case, the LV of the scene )
how bright is it.
then decide what part of it you want to capture,
do you want close detail with a blown out bright backlight sky?
or do you want to actually make the bright sky colorful, and lose the darkforeground into a shadow?
In these high contrast scenes, the average camera will give you a black foreground and a white sky so you go NOTHING,,, a blah picture.
you could of taken the LV 17 sky and shot it,, to get a brilliant sunset from a blah one, by exposing, at LV 17 r( a much shorter exposure ) ather than the avg the meter read of LV 14 for the whole scene,
or,, you could should it at LV 6 the shadowy foreground detail ( a much longer exposure ) to blow out the sky to white, but show the awesome rocks and moss the camera would of made black.
in low contrast, you learn the LV for the whole pic
in high contrast, you learn to see the LV of the highlight, the LV of the shadow, and the LV of the middle ( if present )
then,, you decide what you want to see.
to see the most possible,
you can, alter your lighting,, add fill flash to highlight the near shadows, and also underexpose to add color to your sky.
I am just rambling, for that beginner out there, who wants to learn,
and there is SO much material they dont know what to read.
Realize a meter is giving you the exposure for Zone 5,
medium grey
18%
tanned caucasian skin
deep blue mid day north sky
luscious green grass.
med beige paint,
light oak.
if you are shooting darker oak, ( red oak ) you will need to under expose by 1/3 a stop to get it right,, ( not bleached )
if you are shooting walnut ( dark brown ) you will need to adjust your exposure by 1.5 stops darker
if you are shooting light pine, you may need to over expose by 1 stop brighter
the meter assumes it is a medium dark/bright object,
you need to adjust it, to say, no,,, this IS a bright scene, ( snow, ice, beach )
or no,, this is a dark scene, night, romantic candles, forest shadows
once you learn the LV of the scene, or the item you want,
you can then shoot with no meter,
I wish more people were into learning LV like dan
it would be nice to have discussions like,
I am shooting indoor a scene with LV 10 on my subjects or key interest,
but I want to capture some of the bright background which is LV 14
also, this is an action shot, so I want shutter of 250 to 1/500s
how should I do this,, on film, and digitally?
( answer to sample,,, shoot for the LV 14 highlight you want ,
not the LV 12 of the whole scene, then in developing,
bring exposure up ( brighten, to LV 9 on your subject )
by burning, or, digitally, by just raising you black level from 1 to 35,
for a quick dirty solution, or take the time to burn,the areas you want, just like ansel adams did.
there is SO much,, technical talk about lens fall off ( darkening at edge of photo )
and softness in corners of lenses,
and then, in the end,, in GREAT photo Developing,
those are the things you put INTO the print,
to highlight the subject.
We are becoming TOO technical yet not knowledgeable.
You don't need THAT lens,
you need to COMPOSE artistically, and intelligently
and you need to be technically smart
but artistically creative and productive in the capture and darkroom
This isnt advice for dan, he is way beyond this
it is for the beginner, that LOVES the capture and art of photography
but, would like some more technical knowledge.
I hope someone, out there reads this, and it helps them think and figure something out,
or learn a little more, takes MORE pictures, Experiments,
takes the SAME picture 10 times
but ends up getting THE picture they wanted.
I love photography.
snk
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