Hello,
I have fond memories of a few days I spent in Norway.
I removed the filter from my K110D over a year ago.
A few suggestions if you do it yourself:
Watch out for the memory door open switch which oddly is on the main board. I broke it off and it took a long time to realize what I had done since the door is on the plastic shell and the board looked fine without the switch. I sent the camera to Pentax for repair, cost me $212 US for a camera that was only a week old. No regrets though, the K110D is amazing at IR (1/1000 second or faster in daylight).
The internal cables are delicate and I damaged them by opening and closing the camera while troubleshooting the missing switch.
I did not replace the filter since I use external filters for IR pass (Hoya R720) and IR block (Baader) for Astronomy. At that time I could not find anyone who sold clear glass filters for Pentax. A filterless camera like mine has trouble focusing at infinity with some modern lenses. Oddly, my manual K1000 lenses have enough range to focus and of course my telescopes will focus at least to 100 million light years.
There are now a few people who modify Pentaxs if you decide to have it done. Be careful to read their policy about what happens if the camera fails during the modification.
There are many IR threads on this forum. They are hard to find since you can't search for two letters. Search for infrared which I try and add to each new thread. You will find one thread where I listed other IR threads that can't be found with a search.
The numbers on the IR filters are wavelengths in nanometers. 680 is just below red, 720 is most popular, 900 is far into IR. One difference is how much visible light you want to leak in, many people prefer to have some natural color rather than show IR photos in B&W. I've only used 720 which looks black in the viewfinder but allows some visible light to reach the blue and green sensors.