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| 03-20-2009, 11:06 AM | #1 |
| terminology: hyper-program vs hyper-manual I think I have occasionally used a couple of Pentax terms incorrectly and I'd like to make sure I've got it right. "Hyper-program" = P mode on the K10D/K20D only. When you switch to P mode on one of these cameras, or when you hit the green button, the camera sets the aperture and shutter speed automatically based on the stored program line pref. But you can override that automatic setting by moving the rear e-dial or the front e-dial, which will switch the camera into aperture priority or shutter priority mode respectively. P mode on the K100D and K200D is NOT "hyper-program," it's just a Program mode.Now, my questions. 1, Are the two paragraphs above correct? 2, If I've got it right, what's the point of the term "hyper-manual"? I mean, what's hyper about it? It's just plain manual, no? 3, Do hyper-program and hyper-manual on the digital SLRs differ from features of the same name on Pentax film cameras? I gather that they do. Thanks, Will | |
| 03-20-2009, 11:45 AM | #2 |
| Read this: Hyper Program PENTAX digiich Hyper Manual PENTAX digiich Also here for the K20D http://www.pentax.jp/english/imaging...eature_06.html The K200D doesn't utilize the Hyper operating system of the K20D and K10D as it has only one electronic dial, so one would have to either press the AV button and the electronic dial to dial in the aperture value or the electronic dial alone to control shutter speed in Manual mode. With the K20D/K10D the dual electronic dials allow quicker aperture or shutter speed changes. http://www.pentax.jp/english/imaging...eature_08.html | |
| 03-20-2009, 12:51 PM | #3 |
| Thanks, creampuff, those links were instructive and taught me something I either didn't know or had forgotten. So, it appears that, in my original post, I got "hyper-program" right, but missed something very important about "hyper-manual." I wonder if I'm the only K10D/K20D user who has missed this. Anyway, let me review hyper-manual. "Hyper-manual": on the K10D/K20D = M mode. In this mode, you can control both the shutter speed and the aperture by moving the e-dials. M mode can be used in two ways on the K10D and in three ways on the K20D. 1. Basic operation (both cameras). User controls shutter and aperture using front and rear e-dials respectively. The settings are independent, that is, an adjustment to the aperture does NOT change the shutter speed, and vice versa. This is the default operation in M mode and if you leave it, you can return to it by hitting the green button. 2. Hyper-manual (both cameras). In M mode, hit AE-L to lock the relationship between shutter and aperture, that is to lock the EV. After you hit the AE-L button, the effects of the front and rear e-dials are no longer independent, that is, adjusting one setting causes the camera to make an offsetting adjustment to the other, in order to retain the EV that you had when you clicked AE-L. If you want to look at this way, once you hit AE-L, hyper-manual is pretty much identical to hyper-program in P mode. The main difference is that, when the mode dial is set to P, if you wanted to move the exposure off 0 EV, you would use the +/- button, while, when the dial is set to M, before you hit AE-L, you would move the exposure off 0 EV by adjusting the either the shutter or the aperture and noting the change on meter in the LED. 3. On the K20D (but not on the K10D) there is a third possible wrinkle added to the use of the camera with the mode dial on M: EV compensation. On the K20D, after you move the mode dial to M, you can hold down the +/- button and adjust the EV, and then you can use M mode in either of the ways described above. It does seem to me that, you would probably NOT want to adjust the EV in M and also use hyper-manual, just because at that point you would have to think really hard to figure out exactly what you were doing. I haven't tried it, but it seems to me you could move the meter towards underexposure using +/-, then offset that completely by moving shutter or aperture toward overexposure (before you hit AE-L). And what would be the point of that? So, have I got it now? Will | |
| 03-20-2009, 01:44 PM | #4 |
| Sidebar: HyperProgram (P) on the K20D does not function "correctly". It "should" seemlessly switch between Av and Tv modes, self adjusting ISO as you reach minimums and maximums of shutter/aperture. It doesn't; at least not with firmware 1.01. | |
| 03-20-2009, 02:04 PM | #5 |
| I'm pretty sure I've got it right now. Thanks again to creampuff for the links. As someone who shot for an awful long time in old-fashioned M (full manual = you're completely on your own), I am a bit challenged by the idea of coupling shutter and aperture while the dial is on M. I mean, isn't the whole point of M that they are NOT coupled? What I'm used to is, I set the aperture or the shutter speed where I need them to be, and then adjust one or both in a process that negotiates an acceptable exposure. From looking at the scene directly I know whether the meter's 0 EV exposure is going to be dead on or whether it needs adjustment up or down, and I know whether I want to adjust using shutter or aperture or both. And once I've made that adjustment, I can't imagine wanting to move one setting just for kicks while the camera adjusts the other. I'm not saying it's not useful. I'm justing I can't yet imagine wanting to do this. It is just a bit of a challenge to my old mental habits. On the other hand, I am (slowly) finding that hyper-program mode really works. Six months ago if you asked me what mode dial I would want on the camera if I had only one, I'd have said M without hesitation. Now I might say P. I do recognize that there's a limit to what you can do with the +/- button (+/- 2 stops). So if the question were serious, I guess I'd have to pick M (with or without the hyper-manual dimension). But I don't often need to throw the meter that far off, in fact, I seldom adjust the EV as much as one full stop. I'm more likely to change the exposure dial (from center-weighted to spot or full matrix) or the ISO. It's a great thing to have options. I bet somebody loves hyper-manual. To me, though, it really looks as if hyper-manual (that is, M after you click AE-L) is mainly a harder version of using +/-. And as I get more confident with P, it looks both easier and safer than M. In both cases, I'm in control. But in M mode, you have to reset the camera for every shot if the lighting changes, while in P you don't. I'm used to the need to think constantly about the exposure in M, or rather, I used to be used to it until I really started working with hyper-program. I kept my eye on the meter in the finder all the time. If I moved from the bride's face to the bride's mother's face and the lighting's different I'd make a quick adjustment OR hit the green button. (Love that green button!) But in P, I don't have to think about exposure so hard on every shot. So P looks easier. And P seems safer, too. I bet I will blow the exposure on fewer shots using P than using M. Now I didn't blow a lot of shots in M, but I blew some. I move pretty quick in M, but more than once, something has happened right in front of me that I wasn't expecting: I raise the camera and shoot without thinking, in order to catch the event (father kissing bride, say), and THEN I remember that a second ago I was outside in the bright sunlight and now I'm inside. Here, the limitations of the +/- compensation become an advantage rather than a limitation. In P mode, you will almost never get more than 2 stops away from a nominally correct exposure; and most of the time the risk is smaller than that. In M mode, on the other hand, there's almost no limit to how badly you can mess up a shot and it's as easy to blow the exposure totally as it is to blow it just a little. Do other cameras (Nikon, say) have hyper-program mode? Will | |
| 03-20-2009, 02:11 PM | #6 |
| How is that not correct? Not sure I understand. I do NOT use auto-ISO in P (or M). I never use auto-ISO unless I'm forced to use TAv. So if I have the ISO set to, say, 100, and I start with a green-button correct exposure of f/8 and 1/200th sec, if I move the rear e-dial to f/5.6, the shutter adjusts automatically to 1/400th sec, which is exactly what I expect to happen. What am I missing? Will | |
| 03-20-2009, 02:22 PM | #7 |
| I started a thread about it mid-January: Confused by P-mode behavior | |
| 03-20-2009, 03:22 PM | #8 |
| I started a thread about it mid-January: Confused by P-mode behavior And in any case, it only seems to be an issue if you use auto-ISO. I don't, except when I'm in TAv mode - and then I'm controlling both the shutter and the aperture manually. I don't like having more than one variable in the equation. __________ Addendum 10 minutes later: OK, I read some more including the thread that Arpe linked to. Guess I didn't quite see the problem at first. I've just played with it here. I kinda sorta see something slightly funny going on when I start in P, hit green button, then try increasing the shutter speed. Not sure what to think of this. The ISO DID get higher for me automatically when the shutter was wide open - but at some point, the camera would not let adjust the shutter any more and wouldn't increase the ISO, either. Still not sure it's a "bug" but I guess if ISO is set to 400-1600, I'd expect it to go to 1600 before balking, and that's not what happened. Oh, well, as I said, I don't use auto-ISO, so what the heck do I care? ;-) Will | |
| 03-20-2009, 04:05 PM | #9 |
| I don't want to get mired down in semantics, especially since my bringing the topic up here was merely informative since your original post was on becoming more fully clear on what the two modes mean. But for the sake of discussion, technically the behavior is a "bug". If you had a mechanical knob/control that was bidirectional (e.g. in a pump system) that was meant to allow you to open and close a valve repeatedly, but once you opened the valve the knob would not close it - that would be a "mechanical defect". In the software world we call that a "bug". You can call it a design flaw if you want but whether it is "working per design" or a programmer just didn't code it properly: it's still a "bug". ![]() | |
| 03-21-2009, 12:55 PM | #10 |
| Unless I missed it, seems you've missed the basic thing about "hyper-manual" on any Pentax DSLR - the fact that you can hit the Green button in M mode at any time to set an appropriate shutter speed for the selected aperture (manually assisted Av mode), or - if using an auto-exposure lens - the Green button can optionally set aperture instead (manually assisted Tv), or both (manually assisted P). Also, K200D *does* have a form of hyper-program, except since there is only one wheel, you have to program in advance whether turning it switches you to Av or Tv mode or does something else. | |
| 03-21-2009, 08:36 PM | #11 |
| Unless I missed it, seems you've missed the basic thing about "hyper-manual" on any Pentax DSLR - the fact that you can hit the Green button in M mode at any time to set an appropriate shutter speed for the selected aperture (manually assisted Av mode), or - if using an auto-exposure lens - the Green button can optionally set aperture instead (manually assisted Tv), or both (manually assisted P). Marc, No, I'm aware of that. But the green button works in any mode, no? I think of it as a feature unto itself, rather than a part of any particular mode. Will | |
| 03-21-2009, 11:38 PM | #12 |
| As for what it does in other modes; it definitely wouldn't be what I described, since it is totally unnecessary in any other mode to hit a button to set an appropriate shutter speed or aperture - the whole point of the other mdoes is that they do this automatically, no button press required. | |
| 03-22-2009, 02:31 AM | #13 |
| According to the manual, the K200D does indeed have both Hyper-Program and Hyper-Manual, although they certainly don't mention those terms very often (a grand total of 3 times). Since there's only one dial, C13 decides what it does in P mode: - Program Shift (adjusts shutter and aperture in step) - switch to Tv mode - switch to Av mode Program Shift is a little more interesting than it sounds. Normally when going from a dark to light scene, the standard P line will increase the shutter speed to a certain point, bottom out ISO (if using auto-ISO), and then start increasing aperture. If you shift it one stop to the left, it will increase the shutter speed one stop before increasing aperture. It's adjusting internal priorities rather than locking a specific setting like Tv or Av would. Manual mode works the same as described earlier, with an exception compared to the K20D: no exposure compensation, since that button is used for adjusting the aperture instead. AE-L and the green button work the same way though. The green button only works in P and M modes on my K200D. Does it work anywhere else on the K10D/K20D? | |
| 03-22-2009, 12:25 PM | #14 |
| It does seem to me that P and M could both work this way even if there weren't a green button. I guess in that case, P would give you a guess about exposure when you selected P on the mode dial; after that, there wouldn't be a reset option, so to speak. And in M, you'd have to use the meter on the LED to get a starting point - which is what I always used to do anyway. I am not disagreeing with you, though, and I appreciate hearing that you regard the green button as integral. I certainly agree that the green button is darned useful! Most cameras in manual mode force you to keep spinning dials until the meter zeroes out; (only?) Pentax gives you a one button automatic. As for what it does in other modes; it definitely wouldn't be what I described, since it is totally unnecessary in any other mode to hit a button to set an appropriate shutter speed or aperture - the whole point of the other mdoes is that they do this automatically, no button press required. Addendum a few minutes later: Looks like the green button works on the K20D in TAv mode, too. Just thought I'd acknowledge that. But again I'm not disagreeing. Probably at the moment I'm focusing on everything beside the green button because the green button is the thing that I DID understand before I asked this question. * I do think I could live very happily with a mode dial that had only four options: P, M, User (although I use it rarely), and TAv - and I could get rid of TAv if it were possible to use auto-ISO in M (as apparently it is on a Nikon). These are really nice features of the Pentax K10D/K20D. You might be able to get something similar on a K100D or K200D although having two e-dials really does make it all much easier. Thanks, Will | |
| 03-22-2009, 12:35 PM | #15 |
| The green button only works in P and M modes on my K200D. Does it work anywhere else on the K10D/K20D? Will | |
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