Asahi Pentax S1a 'bulb' shutter setting

[AndrewG NY]

I recently acquired an inexpensive S1a and had a question regarding its expected operation--it appears that the 'bulb' setting does not keep the shutter open while the shutter button remains pressed. Does it only stay open if a cable-release is used? I'm not a big user of 'bulb' but this surprised me a bit.

I was pleasantly surprised however to find that this very simple model will automatically stop down Auto-Takumars when shooting--there's a little plate that pushes that pin on the mount-side of the Taks. I am suspecting the shutter speeds may not be super accurate right now--unscientifically, the slow speeds seem a little too quick.

[woof]

Originally Posted by AndrewG NY

I recently acquired an inexpensive S1a and had a question regarding its expected operation--it appears that the 'bulb' setting does not keep the shutter open while the shutter button remains pressed. Does it only stay open if a cable-release is used? I'm not a big user of 'bulb' but this surprised me a bit.

I was pleasantly surprised however to find that this very simple model will automatically stop down Auto-Takumars when shooting--there's a little plate that pushes that pin on the mount-side of the Taks. I am suspecting the shutter speeds may not be super accurate right now--unscientifically, the slow speeds seem a little too quick.

No, the bulb setting should hold the shutter open while the release held down. I'd expect slow speeds to be slow, unless the camera is "winding up" or capping. I tend to not believe the latter since capping usually occurs at high speeds. However, incorrect tensioning can result in erratic behavior. the lack of hold on "B" also seems to indicate some kind of issue that is likely related in some manner.

Too bad I can't handle it. I cannot describe to you what the difference is when they are capping but I know it when I feel/hear it...

It's worth a CLA. I think Eric will evaluate it for free. Home

woof!

[straightshooter]

Eric did a CLA and an extra repair on my S1a and it's working beautifully. In case you aren't aware of it, there is one thing to check on your camera. If the latch is on the film door and the R on the rewind knob is green, your camera is pre-1964 and you should not use the SMC 50 1:1.4 lens. If the latch is on the camera body and the R is orange, it's post-1964 and ok to use the glass.

CW

[AndrewG NY]

Thanks for the info on the orange 'R'--I had already read that before purchasing. Not that it matters right now since my only m42 normal lens is the f/2 that it came with.

I think the other problem resolved itself--I tried it again last night. The knob was probably not completely engaged as 'B'--it was probably *slightly* twisted towards the 1 second speed. If I twist it *a little* so that it's really 'B', it works as expected.

As for the 1/sec speed maybe being a little quick, I compared it to my MX by ear and it didn't seem super different so maybe it's my imagination, or maybe both are a little quick. I should probably compare against something with an electronic shutter.

As for it being worth a CLA, maybe it is, maybe it's not--for me. I have too many different bodies right now and don't see myself CLA'ing all of them. I need to play with them a bit to decide which ones I like best--and those would be better CLA candidates.

[Blue]

Originally Posted by straightshooter

Eric did a CLA and an extra repair on my S1a and it's working beautifully. In case you aren't aware of it, there is one thing to check on your camera. If the latch is on the film door and the R on the rewind knob is green, your camera is pre-1964 and you should not use the SMC 50 1:1.4 lens. If the latch is on the camera body and the R is orange, it's post-1964 and ok to use the glass.

CW

Just a note here, for the H3, this trend for the green and red/orange R seems to be just the opposite of the SV/S1a. I guess Asahi liked to keep everyone on there toes. However, I don't think it really matters with the H3 because they are probably more like the early SV anyway.