Adaptor instructions say (not that I always follow them) put adaptor on lens first then mount lens on body. But once the adaptor is on the body I will just leave it there and unscrew/screw the lenses onto the body/adaptor as needed.
Maybe its a safety thing in case of mounting badly - any thoughts?
Adaptor instructions say (not that I always follow them) put adaptor on lens first then mount lens on body. But once the adaptor is on the body I will just leave it there and unscrew/screw the lenses onto the body/adaptor as needed.
Maybe its a safety thing in case of mounting badly - any thoughts?
Is it the Pentax genuine? If so, there is no problem having it in the camera. Don't know about thirdparty ones. Come to think of it, you cant take the lens off with the adapter if it is the genuine. You have to unscrew the lens before you take the genuine adapter off.
I've never tried it, but it would seem to me that mounting the lens/adapter pairing to the body would be more awkward than just mounting the adapter by itself. I guess as long as the thing gets securely mounted it really doesn't matter. I just got the mistaken impression that you were doing this even when swapping lenses.
I don't claim that this is great photography or anything, just something a bit different (for here) and I find it interesting.
I just picked up some cheap extension rings for my 55/1.8. Inspiration and/or subject material seemed to be lacking, so I had a go at a kind of shot I've seen on watch forums (yes, there are forums that don't involve cameras).
This is a 3 second exposure at f5.6 (I think), 800 ISO, with all 3 extension tubes. The super luminova was given a good charge with a torch. I was going to say that the balance wheel of my watch oscillates at 3.5Hz and therefore the second hand moves 7 times a second... but that doesn't seem to tie in with the second image, which is a 100% crop and shows 19 different positions for the second hand during those 3 seconds. I think the explanation is that there is a very faint image on either end of the 19, making 21 total, which works - 7 per second. I remember doing something similar but cruder with a P&S camera to confirm the 3.5Hz when the watch was new. (I used to be a slight watch geek... now I've moved on)
Picked up a couple lenses from a friend and an ex-co-worker the past couple days - a
Spotty and some Super Taks, and then later some more Super Taks and a Helios 44.
Since I already have a S-M-C Tak 135 & 200, I figured I'd sell the 150 f/4. After
taking a series of shots this aft/evening, I'm not so sure now.
Cropped:
Cropped:
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K20D + K100D Super
DA* 16-50 f2.8, 50-135 f2.8 | DA 12-24 f4, 35ltd f2.8 Macro | FA 77ltd 1.8, 50 1.4 | F 50 1.7 | K 55 1.8, 35 3.5 | M 200 4, 135 3.5, 100 2.8, 85 2, 50 1.4, 28 2.8, 20 4 | S-M-C Takumar 200 f4, 135 f3.5, 105 2.8, 55 1.8, 50 1.4, 35 3.5 | Vivitar 28 2.8 Close Focus ("K2") | C Zeiss Jena 50 f/2.8 | Jupiter-9 85 f2 | Helios 44M 50 f2 | Tamron 28-75 2.8 XR LD Di , 70-200 2.8 LD Di Macro | Sigma 70 f/2.8 EX DG Macro
Last edited by jsherman999; 07-21-2008 at 09:19 PM.
OK I'll play...but all I own is takumars, so virtually every photo I've shot in the last couple of years has been "in the club" so this isn't exactly a stretch. One from each lens...
17/4 SMC Tak:
35/2 SMC Tak:
50/1.4 SMC Tak:
85/1.8 SMC Tak:
85/1.9 SMC Tak:
300/4 SMC Tak:
500/4.5 SMC Tak:
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Thou shalt not covet thy neighbour's lens.
Well, there is a little change in my signature. Finally, I am authentic. Finally, after all these years I actually own a real honest-to-goodness Takumar. It was in the mail today when I got home from work. I paid more than I should have, but cosmetically it looks pretty good. Feels pretty good too.
Here is one of my first pictures taken this evening as the light was waning.
S-M-C Takumar 50/1.4
Well, that looks pretty good, I said to myself, so I took a few shots wide open at distance, but the results were really lousy.
The photos of neighbor's house were even softer than my Jupiter-9 at f/2.
I don't know if there is a problem with infinity focus or if there is some other issue. I will take some more pictures tomorrow and try to better characterize the problem. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Well, that looks pretty good, I said to myself, so I took a few shots wide open at distance, but the results were really lousy.
The photos of neighbor's house were even softer than my Jupiter-9 at f/2.
I don't know if there is a problem with infinity focus or if there is some other issue. I will take some more pictures tomorrow and try to better characterize the problem. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Steve
Do you have the Pentax brand M42 adapter? If not, that could be your problem. The adapter should sit absolutely flush with the face of the bayonet mount so that the lens is touching the mount - otherwise you cannot focus to infinity.
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Albert in the Rockies - Items in bold are in the pic in my profile
SF-1, MZ-S, AF500FTZ
M 100/4 Macro, M 400/5.6, FA 28-80, FA 24-90, A 70-210, A 1.4X-S
K10D, D-BG2 grip, DA 12-24, DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135 Manfrotto 055B tripod with 0168 ball head, Benbo Trekker tripod, Velbon UP-43 Monopod
My Flickr Photos - Pentax tests: http://www.flickr.com/photos/albert_berry/
Do you have the Pentax brand M42 adapter? If not, that could be your problem. The adapter should sit absolutely flush with the face of the bayonet mount so that the lens is touching the mount - otherwise you cannot focus to infinity.
Yep, the official Pentax adapter in the green-backed plastic pouch. Works great with my other M-42 lenses.
Yep, the official Pentax adapter in the green-backed plastic pouch. Works great with my other M-42 lenses.
Well, that's one idea down the tubes.
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Albert in the Rockies - Items in bold are in the pic in my profile
SF-1, MZ-S, AF500FTZ
M 100/4 Macro, M 400/5.6, FA 28-80, FA 24-90, A 70-210, A 1.4X-S
K10D, D-BG2 grip, DA 12-24, DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135 Manfrotto 055B tripod with 0168 ball head, Benbo Trekker tripod, Velbon UP-43 Monopod
My Flickr Photos - Pentax tests: http://www.flickr.com/photos/albert_berry/
I took a close look at the back of the lens and was unable to find any obvious scratches. There is, however, a slight cloudiness that appears to be on the inner surface of the rearmost element right smack at the center of the lens. It is only visible in oblique light. Fungus? Botched CLA? I don't know, but the position is potentially poison.
I will do some additional tests tomorrow and a direct comparison with my other 50s. If it does not perform to par with my Rikenon 50/1.7 or my Pentax-M 50/1.7 (both reputedly inferior to the Tak), I will request a return trip to the seller.