Well, I'm 6'3" with big hands and fat fingers. I know how steady my fingers are and with my luck I would end up getting finger prints on the screen or scratching something or damaging something that I dont' want to. I would appreciate a how-to but I'll wait until I see before I decide to mess around. I do have some small jewelers screwdrivers but I don't have a decent pair of tweezers.
(...) I would appreciate a how-to but I'll wait until I see before I decide to mess around. I do have some small jewelers screwdrivers but I don't have a decent pair of tweezers.
I could post a link to a German forum to show pictures of the change, but you would not see the pictures until you register to the forum.
So if you are comfortable with about 1-2 weeks delay until i get the screen from Hongkong i will post pictures of the change i will do to the K200D. This change will be absolutely the same for all Pentax DSLRs from istD to K20D. If you - and maybe others - are interested in that, i'll do some kind of reporting my change of the screen.
[Edit]
The tweezers used are normal tweezers, but they are flat on the tip, like the ones used to trim eye lashes. With the tip you can easily grab the nose on the screen, that is there to easily grab it.
Yeah, I was taking a close look at the screen on my camera tonight and I see how it comes out. Seems pretty easy.
I would appreciate the guide. I think I can wait.
EDIT:
Incidentally, I did find this website which has a pretty good picture to picture install guide for a K10D which looks pretty much the same as mine.
Marc Sabatella: On the other hand, Pentax is not exactly famous for fabulous low light AF performance, and I don't really trust an AF system to lock onto the subject I have in mind anyhow. So I personally am happy with a manual focus 50/1.7 (M or A) that runs for well under $100
I agree with the above, 100 %. In fact, I picked up the M 50mm 1.4 and the A 50mm 1.7, both in mint condition, for well under the price of the F 1.4. But I love the challenge of nailing manual focus. And a challenge it is. I installed a split prism focus screen in the K20, and I attached the Pentax 1.2x eyepiece. Each of these helps, but nailing precise focus is still an art and my eyes, although glass free and great for my age, strain to hit the bullseye.
Marc Sabatella: Actually, the dirty secret of MF is that with a fast lens (f/2.8 or greater), the viewfinder is lying to you. At wide apertures, it shows you *more* DOF than the picture will actually show (and no, doing a DOF preview won't help!)
For instance, shooting a newspaper at an angle, th viewfinder might shows 20 lines of text in focus, but the picture might show only 5-10. So that does indeed make the job harder - things that look in focus in the viewfinder won't necessary be in focus in the image, unless you stop down. But not impossible. It just takes practice to learn how to "place" your subject within the zone of acceptable focus. I find I get results by making sure the subject and some of the area behind it is in focus but nothing in front of it is. If there is nothing in front of or behind the subejct to gauge, I just move back and forth until I'm convinced the subject is at the forward edge of just being about to go out of focus.
I read through this forum trying desperately to pick up anything I can which will make me better at manual focus. I also use manual focus, even with my new AF lenses. Your comments above are learned and shed new light on the quest for precision focus. I gratefully thank you for posting these words above. I am trying to work them into my practice routine. If you can add anything else on your understanding of manual focus, I would be even more indebted. Thanks!
For those who want to change their focusing screen, here is a video showing you how, courtesy of this forum's own Codiac2600.
From the photo guide I posted I figured it looked pretty simple, the video pretty much cemented how easy it is. I appreciate the posting. I ordered the VV split image screen today and I think I'll be fine to install it.
Care to share any tips in improving MF speed and accuracy?
I love the old “A” lens for them being fast and affordable, but my MF skills is FAR from tapping the potential of these fine lenses. Getting into focus takes much longer than I would’ve liked, so any pointers helps here. Thanks.