s-m-c vs SMC 50/1,4 Takumar

[estudleon]

Hi for all.

Which is the best purchase, the S-M-C or the SMC 50 takumar?

What are the differences between them?

Are the differences in the IQ?

Thanks in advance.

[Nesster]

The focus ring and other external bits are different, otherwise the same lens

[raymeedc]

One has dashes separating the letters..... the other doesn't.

[X Man]

Originally Posted by estudleon

Hi for all.

Which is the best purchase, the S-M-C or the SMC 50 takumar?

What are the differences between them?

Are the differences in the IQ?

Thanks in advance.

Originally Posted by Nesster

The focus ring and other external bits are different, otherwise the same lens

True. I'd add that the S-M-C Tak feels better according to some because it's still just steel and glass while the SMC has a rubberized grip making it more K like.

Originally Posted by raymeedc

One has dashes separating the letters..... the other doesn't.

I'd also add my vote for the plain old (radioactive, yellowing) Super Takumar. It may sound crazy, but I've owned several Super Tak variants and a couple S-M-C versions and I felt the original had more soul . YMMV.

Regards,
Mike

[kuuan]

a bit off topic...

are the S-M-C Takumar 50mm f1.4 and Pentax M 50mm f1.4 identical optically or not? I had been thinking that they were, but after just a few shots with the M lens, with the Tak I have shot 1000+, I do not believe so any more ( but I need to use the M lens more to be certain )

[Just1MoreDave]

The M and K versions are listed separately here:

Pentax Normal Prime Lenses

The K might be the same as the Takumar, but the M is different.

[estudleon]

Originally Posted by X Man

I'd also add my vote for the plain old (radioactive, yellowing) Super Takumar. It may sound crazy, but I've owned several Super Tak variants and a couple S-M-C versions and I felt the original had more soul . YMMV.
Regards,
Mike

Hi Mike. Thanks for answer. But what means for you " had more soul " in IQ terms?


Thanks again.

[Nesster]

Re which to purchase, unless you have a preference in focus ring - metal vs rubber - I don't actually care which I buy, going on price and condition instead. Except that I have an ES-II, I wouldn't even look too hard into Super vs the Smc's, but I would look at Auto (in that they really have a different look, and I'd buy one in a heartbeat)

The Super 1.4 has had more years to simmer and yellow... Mine was noticeably more yellow than my SMC...

[raymeedc]

Originally Posted by X Man

I'd add that the S-M-C Tak feels better according to some because it's still just steel and glass while the SMC has a rubberized grip making it more K like.

I'm definitely one of those "some".

[X Man]

Originally Posted by estudleon

Hi Mike. Thanks for answer. But what means for you " had more soul " in IQ terms?


Thanks again.

Oh, I'm sorry, but I really can't quantify the admittedly ambiguous characteristics of the various lenses to which I referred.

It's just a feeling I got. I think I liked the plain old Super Takumar because of the golden cast, IE: yellowing. The S-M-C, SMC, K, and M variants are cleaner, almost sanitized compared to a slightly yellowed Super Tak.

It's kind of like headphones... While a high end set of Sennheiser phones may accurately reproduce sound, without muddling or coloring it... Sometimes, colored, some say muddied, overly bass heavy sounds coming out of some vintage cans is nice. Like Digital Audio vs. Vinyl.

I'm certain you can't go wrong with any of these lenses, as they're all quite amazing.

Regards,
Mike

[Nesster]

Here's a comparison of the yellowing of the two I have - the Super is yellower as it has a few years on the SMC. And/or they changed the glue along the way to one that yellows slower when irradiated

[estudleon]

Thanks Nesster. Your images are very usefull.

[rayallen]

Just use the Spotmatic Group method:

The Spotmatic Group Method
Here is the method we use on the Yahoo! Spotmatic group:

How to Cure Yellowing in Takumar 50mm f1.4 lenses.

Remove both lens caps and wrap the uncapped lens, except the rear element,
in aluminum foil and then set it on a windowsill that faces towards the sun.
Prop it up with something (like a rolled-up towel) so that it tilts in order
to get the most sunlight into it. Then go away and leave it.

A mild case takes about a week to ten days on a windowsill in California.
A severe one takes about a month.
The foil serves two functions. It reflects light off the lens body and
thus reduces heat buildup that otherwise would occur due to the black
finish on the lens and this could affect the lubrication inside the lens.
And by not capping the lens before wrapping it, light makes its way from
the back of the lens and reflects back off the foil at the front of the lens,
thus attacking the yellowing again.

This "sunlight cure" method has been successfully employed by a number of
members of the Spotmatic group and many 50mm f1.4 lenses which were
thought to be useless for colour photography have now been returned to
active service with "water clear" glass.
Some others have reported good results in about three weeks using an
ultraviolet light source.

The yellowing problem affects the Model II 50mm f1.4 Super-Takumars and all
other 50mm f1.4 lens through to the K-mount series.
The older Model I 50/1.4 Super-Takumars, the 8-element ones (which can be
distinguished by the protruding element at the rear NOT having a
protective metal rim), do not turn yellow because they do not have
the radioactive element, using an additional regular optical glass element to
get higher refraction instead. The Yellowing problem also affects the later
f2 35mm lenses with 49mm filters.

[estudleon]

Thanks Rayallen, very usefull information!!

And you, guys, that are a pentax experts, WHAT about the barrel distortion

(classical in 1,4 lenses) in both ST and S-M-C 1,4/50?


With thiese information, I will be ready to choose. Thanks for all. Rino.

[estudleon]

I purchase the S-M-C takumar 1,4/50.

10 PTS COPNSMETIC AND MECHANICALLY, OPTICA 100%.

oNLY DRAW: Yellowish!! I put it under UV light.

Let we see.