How... smelly are developing chemicals?

*pbo* · 10-11-2009, 09:49 AM

It's kind of a weird question...

I'm thinking of developing some film myself, starting with B&W for now. I'm thinking of using Diafine developer - since it seems to be newbie-friendly - and some Lucky B&W film - well, because it's cheap and I won't feel too bad if I screw up a roll of it.

Now, the question is, I'm not sure yet where to actually do the developing. I'm thinking, if the chemicals (including fixer and PhotoFlo) aren't too smelly - or dangerous - I will just do most part in the kitchen, when no one's looking

But, if they are, then I'll have to come up with something else...
So, pretty much the question is - is the smell bearable, or so bad I shouldn't do it when other people are around

Oh, and something unrelated... I'm shooting expired (in 2006, but supposedly been in fridge all the time) Fuji NPH400 in 120 size right now; does anyone know what'll happen if I develop it in Diafine as I would do B&W?

Sluggo · 10-11-2009, 10:52 AM

I find stop bath to be quite smelly, and fixer moderately smelly. Developers probably vary; the ones I use are not offensive but I can't speak for Diafine. The smelly chems are only noticeable when you're using them, so yeah you might want to do the developing when your significant other is significantly elsewhere. Put the caps on, and the smell dissapates.

Regarding chems being dangerous, just make sure you label the containers clearly especially if any are in the fridge. Some people use rubber gloves when working with film; I don't.

-- edit: you live Ann Arbor? then it's okay, you won't notice the smell. (j/k .... I grew up north of Lansing) ;-p

captainslack · 10-11-2009, 11:05 AM

In a word: yes. They're quite smelly. Stop Bath is similar to vinegar & I find it has a similar odor. Some developers have an odor & some don't. Fixer has a smell truly it's own.

*ramair455* · 10-11-2009, 12:07 PM

Fixer - very smelly
Stop bath - smelly
developer - not to bad

About NPH400 in diafine - never have tried to process color film in BW chemistry, unless by mistake...

Dom · 10-11-2009, 12:28 PM

I love the smell of a darkroom, that heady scent of stuff that can root your skin. I was a darkroom dude for an ad agency for several years and set-up the photo studio. I set up computer system that made my skill as a developer and printer obsolete.

Never mind computer are a lot easier and more comfy.

I used to use a bad boy a bit like this.

Sorry I stole this of google images if it's your photo.

titrisol · 10-11-2009, 12:29 PM

Diafine has a very special smell after a few months of use, but is not strong and for me at least not repulsive

If you use a stop bath, use a citric stop bath, which smells like lemon, hiwever with diafine water is generally enough.

Fixer can be smelly after a few weeks, as the sulfur comes out, but is not too bad either.

*Ratmagiclady* · 10-11-2009, 12:37 PM

It's not bothersome to me. Especially doing negs, the smell doesn't linger, anyway. Print trays left full can be noticeable.

In any event, it's far less smelly than, say, most paint.

*geauxpez* · 10-11-2009, 01:16 PM

Developing chems aren't bad. I always used a citric based stop as mentioned above, so that helped. I would do my pouring in the kitchen and the agitate while watching tv with my wife. If she doesn't complain of the odor, then believe me, it is minimal.

*jimH* · 10-11-2009, 03:19 PM

If you have an exhaust fan that vents out of doors, such as a range hood in the kitchen that vents out side you could turn that on. Don't bother if it just vents back into the kitchen. Or you might consider doing the developing in the bathroom with the exhaust fan turned on, that would work too. At any rate, unless you have a very sensitive nose the odor shouldn't be too objectionable.

*pbo* · 10-11-2009, 04:18 PM

Thanks everybody for the answers!

So, I figure fixer is THE smelliest of all chems. I've read that diafine doesn't need a special stop bath - and titrisol mentioned that in his post as well, so I probably won't need the second most smelliest chem

I probably will try the developing in the bathroom first - and, depending on whether people living with me in apartment find out or not, keep doing it there

Now, supplies... Aw man, a lotta stuff...
What's a good fixer by the way?

Oh, and if I develop C-41 color film in diafine, will there be any effect on developing b&w film? Like, I will reuse chemicals, so after I developed a roll, I pour chemicals back into their jugs - will residue from color film "contaminate" solution?

*jimH* · 10-11-2009, 04:43 PM

Originally Posted by pbo

Thanks everybody for the answers!

So, I figure fixer is THE smelliest of all chems. I've read that diafine doesn't need a special stop bath - and titrisol mentioned that in his post as well, so I probably won't need the second most smelliest chem
I probably will try the developing in the bathroom first - and, depending on whether people living with me in apartment find out or not, keep doing it there
Now, supplies... Aw man, a lotta stuff...
What's a good fixer by the way?

Oh, and if I develop C-41 color film in diafine, will there be any effect on developing b&w film? Like, I will reuse chemicals, so after I developed a roll, I pour chemicals back into their jugs - will residue from color film "contaminate" solution?

1. I don't think I would bother trying to develop C-41 color film in B/W chemistry, it has dye layers that also need to be developed. It's been so long since I've developed c-41 I don't really remember how many developer steps there were, but more than one.

2. If I recall correctly I didn't reuse my developer, stop bath OK and fixer OK, but if you do reuse developer, I'd keep it separate from the fresh chemicals. If you want consistent results, I'm talking predictable results, especially when you start doing this stuff seriously, I'd use fresh chemicals each time. Good luck and don't go cheap on a relatively low cost process. After all, you're after the final results and if you spend good money on film, don't ruin it with going cheap on your chemicals.

*jimH* · 10-11-2009, 04:50 PM

Stop bath is probably the cheapest of the chemicals; it's glacial acetic acid and you dilute it down to practically zero strength. It's an acid and it's purpose is to neutralize the base of the alkaline developers to stop the development quickly. It's true that you technically don't need a stop bath, water will do, for the most part, but if you want to be precise in development you will want to be precise with time and tempature of development, so a stop bath is imprortant in that respect.

*pbo* · 10-11-2009, 06:31 PM

1. I don't think I would bother trying to develop C-41 color film in B/W chemistry, it has dye layers that also need to be developed. It's been so long since I've developed c-41 I don't really remember how many developer steps there were, but more than one.

The reason why I want to develop C-41 in B&W is because I just received 9 rolls of NPH400 expired wayyy back, and that I'm shooting right now just for fun. I don't want to send them out to process - way too costly, and I'm not shooting anything important anyways. So, colorless results are fine for me - as long as they are look-able

Stop bath is probably the cheapest of the chemicals; it's glacial acetic acid and you dilute it down to practically zero strength. It's an acid and it's purpose is to neutralize the base of the alkaline developers to stop the development quickly. It's true that you technically don't need a stop bath, water will do, for the most part, but if you want to be precise in development you will want to be precise with time and tempature of development, so a stop bath is imprortant in that respect.

But isn't it true that Diafine simply cannot overdo developing? I think that's what it's known for - you don't have be too careful with temp and time to get good enough results?

*ramair455* · 10-11-2009, 06:49 PM

Originally Posted by pbo

But isn't it true that Diafine simply cannot overdo developing? I think that's what it's known for - you don't have be too careful with temp and time to get good enough results?

It depends on what you call "good results." Good processing (great negs) is not a result of not being too careful while processing. It is "chemistry" after all...you can't ever be too careful.

*pingflood* · 10-11-2009, 07:24 PM

Originally Posted by jimH

Stop bath is probably the cheapest of the chemicals; it's glacial acetic acid and you dilute it down to practically zero strength. It's an acid and it's purpose is to neutralize the base of the alkaline developers to stop the development quickly. It's true that you technically don't need a stop bath, water will do, for the most part, but if you want to be precise in development you will want to be precise with time and tempature of development, so a stop bath is imprortant in that respect.

With Diafine you do NOT want to use a stop bath. Try it and you can end up with pinholes in your film.

Also, since it develops to exhaustion, a stop bath would accomplish nothing.

Just use it at room temp and in solution A for ~4 mins, solution B for ~4 mins, and you will be fine. Don't forget to fix though (which is the only "smelly" component of this setup). As for agitation I do a few inversions after pouring the solutions in, then once after 2 minutes for each one.

Also, I would recommend against a presoak when using Diafine.

Do it right and you end up with very very good negs for scanning. They tend to be rather low contrast so for traditional wet prints you want to use a high contrast paper (or filter if using VC paper).