I shoot Raw + jpeg on my K20D. I find Vibrant image tone, with saturation, contrast etc set to zero, gives the most natural reds and yellows. Natural tone is a bit flat, Bright and Landscape colours are pretty, but not accurate (good for some things).
Oh for gods sake everyone! Do the decent thing and take a white balance reading for anything remotely important. There are thousands of cheap white balance calibration tools on the market, or just measure off some grass or other mid tone in situ. No photographer worth his/her salt lets the camera make these decisions for them, so get used to treating a pro specced camera in a professional way,
Oh for gods sake everyone! Do the decent thing and take a white balance reading for anything remotely important. There are thousands of cheap white balance calibration tools on the market, or just measure off some grass or other mid tone in situ. No photographer worth his/her salt lets the camera make these decisions for them, so get used to treating a pro specced camera in a professional way,
sorry, rant over
dave
Your rant isn't worth much. WB is whatever I want it to be in raw mode.
Oh for gods sake everyone! Do the decent thing and take a white balance reading for anything remotely important. There are thousands of cheap white balance calibration tools on the market, or just measure off some grass or other mid tone in situ. No photographer worth his/her salt lets the camera make these decisions for them, so get used to treating a pro specced camera in a professional way,
Oh for gods sake everyone! Do the decent thing and take a white balance reading for anything remotely important. There are thousands of cheap white balance calibration tools on the market, or just measure off some grass or other mid tone in situ. No photographer worth his/her salt lets the camera make these decisions for them, so get used to treating a pro specced camera in a professional way,
I suspect it is new technology to have bunch of glass with you :-)
And I find it really unusable to manually set white balance by white card for outside shooting if all photos are not made in exact same situation.
In reality it is simple algorithm to make subsampled array from RAW data, make few calculations, get special parameters vector and look for this vector in WB database.
Some people still believe that camera want to make average gray tone, it is not so.
In reality DSLR always lacks compared to best compacts. But each compact is not created equal, any bad calibration can result in constant problem.
And after you look at internal parameters on K20D or GX20 calibration you'll amazed how it could render anything looking similar to reality. You could easeally get one very good camera and one that renders colors very bad.
Well to white balance you can meter (measure) off any mid tone.. (although it's not ideal, i did mean if you were in a fix and there was no mid grey to measure off)
And white balance is still very important in RAW as getting it right in camera means less post processing and in mixed (incandescent and tungsten or flash/sunlight mixed together) lighting conditions it is pretty much the the only way to get it spot on, doing it after is very difficult to avoid casts in these situatons...also changing white balance radically in RAW if you have shot at a medium ISO or higher can result in more noise and dynamic range reduction in some situations...so it is still better to meter from a 18% kodak grey card in situ and get it right from the start
Your rant isn't worth much. WB is whatever I want it to be in raw mode.
Most of this discussion has been about shooting JPEG, so setting your white balance is doubly important in this case as JPEG's can be a pig to WB after the fact.
I suspect it is new technology to have bunch of glass with you :-)
And I find it really unusable to manually set white balance by white card for outside shooting if all photos are not made in exact same situation.
In reality it is simple algorithm to make subsampled array from RAW data, make few calculations, get special parameters vector and look for this vector in WB database.
Some people still believe that camera want to make average gray tone, it is not so.
In reality DSLR always lacks compared to best compacts. But each compact is not created equal, any bad calibration can result in constant problem.
And after you look at internal parameters on K20D or GX20 calibration you'll amazed how it could render anything looking similar to reality. You could easeally get one very good camera and one that renders colors very bad.
The camera may or may not be trying to make a grey tone, that i cannot answer, but it sure as hell knows what a grey tone is, and can therefore make an accurate calibration against it, hence the standard for WB measurement is still an 18% kodak grey card. Also making a sub sampled array of your calculated data looked up in a vector database sounds quite hard work, compared to holding a piece of grey cardboard up in front of a camera for a few seconds.
"GX20 has folowing color related settings:
WB adjustment (color shift) for each WB mode
Picture mode saturation
Picture mode tone
I tried playing with all of them. But came to simple conclusion that it takes less time to process RAW or JPEG file rather them use trial and error without significant results."
I came in rather late on this because many solutions have been suggested on the assumption that tr13 has omitted doing something on the GX20 which ought to have been done. My immpression is that he has done a pretty thorough job of trying to get it right.
I have had the same difficulty with autumn yellows that tr13 had on the same type of camera. The settings for getting the result in-camera seem not be there in the GX20. Shooting RAW fles is a viable option but it would appear that tr13 was trying to get it right first time in-camera and could not .