| Review of: Sunpak Auto 622 pro-system by Lord Lucan on Thu January 12, 2023 | Rating: 8 | View more reviews | |
Views: 1395
Reviews: 1
|
The Sunpak 622 is from the late film era. There were two versions, the "Super" having the higher Guide Number of 60 metres. Mine is the 50 metres version and the main visible difference is that the "Super" has only the word "Sunpak" on the front. The two are often confused in the used market.
These were among the most powerful camera-mounted flashguns ever made, rivals to the big Metz hammerheads towards the end of the film era. The above Guide Numbers are with the standard beam angle head. These days flashgun makers misleadingly headline their Guide Numbers at maximum zoom, but for what it is worth the two 622 versions are 72 and 82 metres respectively at their maximum zoom. Digital cameras can be wound up to high ISO values so flashgun power is not such an issue today. The trigger voltage is low to suit modern cameras.
It is designed for use with camera brand specific modules that enable dedication features, although it can also be used without. Those adaptors fit in the camera hot shoe and connect by coiled cable to the flash unit. I have reviewed the Pentax-specific module separately here : https://www.pentaxforums.com/accessoryreviews/sunpak-interface-module-pt-2d-and-cord-ext-11.html . There is an alternative simple PC sync lead for use without such a module.
The control panel is comprehensive, offering seven Auto levels, and eight manual (from full down to 1/128). It also has film era TTL if you use it with a camera dedication module. Unusually there are two "Ready" lights : the first comes on when the flash is first able to fire, and the second a little later when a full power charge has been reached. Having set the ISO sensitivity, you choose an F stop, and its numeral and that of the subject range are illuminated. The sliders for these settings are a bit stiff (with age?) on my unit. Changing the zoom head setting (wide, standard, or tele) changes the illuminated range accordingly, and also the illumination colour to remind you of its setting. When the head is tilted the recommended range illumination is extinguished because the flash formula no longer applies.
There is a large system of accessories around the 622. The heads themselves are interchangeable. Mine came with the 35-135mm (full frame equivalent) zoom head, but there are also fixed wide and standard angle heads, infra-red, bare bulb, and ring flash heads. There are numerous power supply options, including NiCad battery packs and pods and their chargers, although after 20-30 years those batteries might be in poor condition. The safest option (which mine has) is the pod for four size "C" batteries. Battery pods clip on in front of the handle like the finger guard of a sword.
The 622 is massive. With a K-1 on the bracket it is a heft to pick up, and the supplied bracket (used for all contemporary Sunpak hammerheads) seems only just adequate - it is not going to break but you can feel it flex as the flashgun and camera arm-wrestle with each other. I do some metalwork, so I might re-inforce the bracket with a duralumin plate underneath.
I got mine relatively cheaply (£30) from Ebay as the sole bidder, but usually there is more interest and bids go up to $50-£100 or more. Beware that accessories are rare and expensive - sellers can ask for more for a battery pod than I paid for this complete unit. When new they came with a bracket, basic sync lead, and a pod as standard. Therefore, if you buy one, ensure that you get a complete unit with everything that you need because I have seen them sold without a battery pod, a bracket, or even a head, with no comment by the seller.
A superb flashgun, but 8/10 because of the slightly flexible bracket, and its sheer weight and size which will probably not be to the liking of most people. I wanted one for my Sunpak collection but I will normally prefer my lighter Sunpak 555.
| |
| Review of: Sunpak Auto 24DX by Lord Lucan on Tue December 6, 2022 | Rating: 7 | View more reviews | |
Views: 779
Reviews: 1
|
This is the smallest of the Sunpak DX series made in the late film era (Auto 36DX, 30DX, 26DX, DX8R etc) which use a module attaching to the unit's underside to provide the foot. It has the low trigger voltage of 4.6 volts with the Pentax PT-1D module (but may be up to 15 volts with other modules) so is suitable for modern Pentax cameras.
The Guide Number is 24 metres. This figure cannot be directly compared with those of modern units, the marketing of which quotes Guide Numbers at maximum zoom to sound more favourable. Although the unit's name reflects its Guide Number in metres, the distance scale shows only feet. There is a slot around the flash window which could take attached modifiers such for telephoto or wide angle use, although I have never seen any on sale and they would be a different size from those of any other DX unit.
It feels solid and is well made. The battery door catch arrangement is strong, as in all the DX series; this can be a weakness in many units, including those of Pentax.
The controls are on the back. There is the ON/OFF switch, and because it turns itself off after a minute of disuse there is a push button to turn it on again. A slider sets film (or sensor) sensitivity between ISO 25 and 800, which suits film but is low for a digital camera. However you could extrapolate because it is only a slide rule to recommend camera aperture and has no connection to the internals.
Another switch selects between two Auto modes (yellow and green), two Manual modes (full and 1/8), and a film era TTL mode (not P-TTL). The 1/8 manual level has a Guide Number of 8 metres. There is a test button and indicator light to check adequate illumination in the Auto modes.
There is a range of foot modules to provide dedication to the major camera brands of the time and are evidently designed for fit-and-forget, not for frequent changing, which I think is reasonable. The module for Pentax dedication is the PT-1D or PT-2D, and I review one here :
https://www.pentaxforums.com/accessoryreviews/sunpak-interface-module-pt-2d-and-cord-ext-11.html
Because the head cannot tilt or swivel I would not have bought this if it were not for the facts that it completes my collection of Sunpak DX units, it was cheap, and it came with the standard (ie non-dedicated) foot module which has certain advantages. I shall review that module separately.
I give it 7 out of 10, only because of the low power and lack of tilt and swivel, but those might not be issues for some uses. I might use it for illuminating a flash brolly for close-up work.
| |
| Review of: Sunpak auto130 by Lord Lucan on Wed October 12, 2022 | Rating: 3 | View more reviews | |
Views: 769
Reviews: 1
|
I bought this only because it came with a mains adaptor that I wanted, and having got it I might as well do a review. The first thing to say is that it has a high trigger voltage so it should not be put on a modern camera because it risks damaging the electronics. It belongs to a large family of similar units that Sunpak made I guess around the mid 1970s. The manufacturing quality is solid.
It belongs to the era before most flash units had thyristors, so in its auto modes it dumps any surplus energy instead of conserving it - presumably into a "dark" internal flash tube. This means it takes as long to recharge after a reduced energy auto shot as it does after a full blast manual one - about 10 seconds in fact.
The tilt and swivel action is weird. With the unit in the upright position the flash tube portion pulls out a little and can then swivel horizontally. For a vertical tilt, for example to bounce off a ceiling, the entire unit is then rolled over onto its side around a pivot just above its foot - in addition to the flash tube portion being swivelled as already described. It slightly reminded me of a Rubik's cube. The unit is large and heavy, so when laying to one side for vertical bounce the camera feels and looks lop-sided, and possibly there is quite a structural jolt on the camera hot shoe if the camera is put down suddenly.
There is a permanently attached PC sync cable. When the unit is used on a hot shoe the cable can be fitted neatly into a groove and plugged into its own socket in the body. This cable is always in the circuit because the foot contacts only lead up to the socket in the body, not directly to the internal electronics. The fact that a sync cable is provided at all is another indication of its age because many cameras of that era had no hot shoe. There is a "traditional" small metal stud* on which you can short out the PC plug to test that the flash works, but there is a test button on the back anyway. Being of its era there are no camera dedication features and only the single central contact (plus ground) in the foot.
I shall not be using this unit and it will probably now go in the bin before someone puts it on a modern camera and fries it. It is not a rarity, and there are plenty of other older flash units around which do have safe trigger voltages and are being offered on Ebay etc at almost give-away prices, so there is no good reason to use one like this, unless for authenticity on a camera of its own time.
* Visible in just above the foot in the picture of the rear in the review header.
| |
| Review of: Sunpak Auto 30DX by Lord Lucan on Fri October 7, 2022 | Rating: 8 | View more reviews | |
Views: 1300
Reviews: 1
|
This is another of the Sunpak DX series which were probably made in the 1980s and 1990s, the late film era, and it fits in between the 26DX and 36DX also reviewed in this section (a 24DX was also made). They all use a camera brand specific module which attaches to the unit's underside to provide the foot. It has a low trigger voltage (at least with the Pentax modules) so is suitable for modern cameras.
The Guide Number of 30 metres is reckoned in the traditional way - ie with an illumination angle for a standard lens and a sensitivity of ISO 100. This cannot be directly compared with modern units, the marketing of which quotes Guide Numbers at maximum zoom, to sound more favourable. It is ironic that although its name refers to its Guide Number in metres, the distance scale shows only feet.
Like the rest of the DX series it is well made and feels solid. The control sliders and the indexed swivel/tilt/zoom movements work nicely. The battery compartment is similar to that of the Pentax AF280T but the door catch is much stronger (a weakness in many units, including Pentax's).
The controls are on the back. There is the OFF/AC-HV/BATTERY switch and a slider to set film (or sensor) sensitivity between ISO 25 and 800. That is low for a digital camera and even for some film, although you can extrapolate because it is only a slide rule giving a recommend camera aperture and has no connection to the internals. Another switch selects between three Auto modes (red yellow and green), Manual, and TTL (film era TTL, not P-TTL) . A further slider sets the manual energy level with five values from full down to 1/16, in one stop intervals.
Also on the back is a combined "ready" light and test button, and a light to confirm adequate illumination when in the Auto modes, whether testing or for an actual shot. To save power it turns itself off after one minute of disuse, which I think is a bit short, but there is a button to revive it.
The module plugs into the underside and provides the foot. There is a range of these modules which provide dedication to the major camera brands of the time, and also a single contact generic module. That for Pentax is the PT-1D or PT-2D. These are evidently designed for fit-and-forget, not for frequent changing, because they use a simple circuit card edge connection; I think that is reasonable. Many Ebay sellers of Sunpak DX units seem unaware that their unit is modular. I review a PT-2D module here : https://www.pentaxforums.com/accessoryreviews/sunpak-interface-module-pt-2d-and-cord-ext-11.html
Sunpak made optional accessories for the DX units, including mains adaptors, belt or shoulder-worn high voltage battery packs, and clip-on telphoto adaptors and diffusers. These can be hard to find today but I already had a telephoto adaptor (the TL-6) and it is included in the photos above. The lead from an external power supply would plug into a socket on the side.
These DX units were made during the transition period when good flash units had three main modes - manual, auto (controlled by their own photocell), and TTL (controlled by the camera). Earlier units did not have TTL and later units did not have auto. Unfortunately TTL is specific to the camera brand (or even model), and anyway film era TTL is not useable in modern digital cameras. Therefore, unlike later units, the DX series and many of their contemporaries (such as the similar Pentax AF280T) remain satisfactorily useable in both their manual and auto modes fitted straight on to modern digital cameras - at least on Pentax ones. Perhaps because of general ignorance of this fact, they can be found today at very low prices.
| |
| Review of: Pentax Battery Grip D-BG6 for Pentax K-1 by Lord Lucan on Thu September 15, 2022 | Rating: 9 | View more reviews | |
Views: 12917
Reviews: 4
|
There is not a lot to say about the use of this - it is a grip that fixes under the K-1 via the tripod screw socket and offers an additional shutter release button and a few other controls located for shooting in portrait format. It has a tripod socket itself. It adds significantly to the bulk and (if an additional battery is fitted in it) the weight of the K-1, but that is to be expected, and might be considered an advantage if you want to create a professional ambience.
The battery is held in a removable tray, and two alternative trays are provided : one holds the same D-L190 type as the K-1 body uses, and the other holds six AA batteries. The camera and grip work whether a battery is in the body or the grip, or in both.
I got mine as insurance against the main D-L190 failing or running out away from a charger, because AA batteries can be bought anywhere. It (or rather the camera) seems a bit fussy about the state of the AA batteries. I put six fresh alkaline batteries in it and the camera icon promptly showed them as partly discharged.
I was hesitant to put lithium AAs in because six in series produce over 9 volts under load (and even more when not), while the D-L190 voltage is only 7.2 volts. In fact by default the camera auto-adjusts to the voltage of different types of AA batteries (alkaline, lithium or NiMH). The camera menus also allow you to set the type of battery explicitly if it detects you are using AAs. It seems preferable to leave it in auto-adjust, otherwise I would worry about loading lithiums after previously leaving it set for NiMH for example.
It is very well made. The AA tray holds the batteries in with little spring clips, the best designed battery holder I have ever seen! Nit-picking, it is not possible to remove the battery from the K-1 body, eg for charging, without removing the grip first.
Mine was used but mint from a major dealer for only £55, such a bargain that I wonder if there was a mistake. Normally they are rather pricey, and hard to find used.
| |
| Review of: Sunpak Auto DX 12R Ring Light by Lord Lucan on Sun September 11, 2022 | Rating: 8 | View more reviews | |
Views: 1368
Reviews: 1
|
This unit is from the later film era and is the big brother of the DX 8R reviewed elsewhere. It consists of a body containing the batteries and circuits and which mounts on the camera hot-shoe, and a separate flash ring joined by a cable that plugs into the body but is fixed to the ring. The body has a connector for an alternative high voltage supply, although it might be hard to find one these days.
The Guide Number is 12 metres, just about powerful enough to use for portraits as well as macro, as long as you don't mind the prison mug-shot look that direct flash gives to portraits. It has Manual and TTL modes, and I guess the DX 12R was a more modern design than the DX 8R because it has the downside that it lacks an Auto mode. Flash unit makers dropped Auto modes in the 1990s after most film cameras had acquired TTL flash control, but film era TTL modes do not work in modern DSLRs (while Auto does) so this unit is effectively only manual if you use it with one.
The Manual mode has five power levels from full down to 1/16th. The built-in slide rule for the flash formula goes from ISO 25 to [only] ISO 1000, which suits film but you need to extrapolate or do your own maths for higher ISOs. There are four modelling LEDs around the head which can be switched on with a button.
The flash ring clips to an adaptor which in turn is screwed to the camera lens filter threads. Two adaptors are supplied, for 62mm and 67mm threads, so most medium format and other larger modern lenses can be used with it. For a smaller lens you must add your own step-down rings. The flash ring can be released from the adaptor with a pair of buttons; this is good because you can screw the adaptor on and off the lens without the encumbrance and weight of the head itself - otherwise screwing onto a large diameter filter thread can be tricky and lead to cross-threading.
As one of the Sunpak DX series, it must be used with a plug-in module dedicated to your camera brand - that for Pentax is the PT-1D or PT-2D. The module fits to the bottom of the body and provides the hot-shoe foot; it also has a photocell for the Auto mode of other DX flash units but is unused for this one. Sunpak also made an un-dedicated module which I understand had only the central connecting pin in the foot.
The dedication modules were designed for film era cameras such as the LX and A-series, and I have found the dedication features work in a somewhat limited way (depending on the camera mode) on a DSLR. However, I don't miss the dedication in macro usage - it is mainly about setting the camera to sync speed and showing "Flash Ready" in the viewfinder. TTL capability would have been useful, but on the other hand test shots for exposure are easy with a digital camera.
It is well made, and the battery door on the body has a strong catch arrangement (unlike many other flash units). The body takes four AA batteries so is about as heavy as mid-power general purpose unit such as the Pentax AF280T. The 400 gm given for the weight includes the batteries because the unit is of no use without them - they need to be present even if an external power supply is used. I measured the trigger voltage at 4.8 volts with a Pentax PT-1D module, which is safe for modern Pentax cameras.
I got mine for £9.99 from Ebay, being the sole bidder. It was near mint and came in the nice carry case that was supplied originally with these things. I know that people pay $100s for the equivalent Pentax (or other camera makers') branded ones, for little apparent advantage, and then they complain about the build quality, especially about the battery door catch being weak (I have done the same). I would rate the best quality makers of film-era flash units as Metz, Sunpak and Vivitar in that order, with camera branded ones coming after those, yet those independent brands can be had for almost give-away prices today.
| |
| Review of: Sunpak Auto 26DX by Lord Lucan on Fri March 4, 2022 | Rating: 7 | View more reviews | |
Views: 1259
Reviews: 1
|
This is another of the Sunpak DX series (Auto 36DX, 30DX, 24DX, DX8R etc) of the late film era. They use a module which attaches to the unit's underside to provide the foot. It has a low trigger voltage (at least with the Pentax modules) so is suitable for modern cameras.
The Guide Number (GN) of 26 metres is expressed the traditional way - with zoom set for a standard full frame 50mm lens and a sensitivity of ISO 100. This cannot be directly compared with modern units, the marketing of which quotes Guide Numbers at maximum zoom to sound more favourable. Although the unit's name seems to refer to its Guide Number in meters, the distance scale shows only feet.
Another anomaly is that some of the markings on the back say the GN with a 50mm lens at ISO 100 is 100 ft, which is 30.5 meters. However the F-number versus distance scale implies a GN of about 85 ft, equal to 26 meters, which corresponds to the unit's name. In fact, using lithium (1.5v) batteries, I measured the GN of mine to be 24 metres, and the re-cycle time from full power was 8 seconds, which is not bad for a unit which must be over 20 years old.
It feels solid, and the indexed swivel/tilt/zoom movements work nicely. The zoom head can be set between 35, 50 and 135mm. It is a pity it cannot go down to 28mm, as I might use for indoor group shots. There is a slot that allows rectagular gels or other modifiers to be inserted behind the lens.
The controls are on the back. There is the ON/OFF switch, and because it is meant to turn itself off after a minute of disuse (although mine does not) there is a push button to turn it on again. A slider sets film (or sensor) sensitivity between ISO 25 and 1000, which suits film but is low for a digital camera. However you could extrapolate because it is only a slide rule to recommend camera aperture and has no connection to the internals. There are three markers against which to set the sensitivity depending on which focal length the zoom head is set to; cleverly, the appropriate one is indicated by a tiny LED, contolled presumably by a position switch in the head.
Another switch selects between three Auto modes (red yellow and green), Manual, and TTL modes (film era TTL, not P-TTL) . A further slider sets the manual energy level with five values from full down to 1/16 in one stop intervals. There is a test button and indicator light to check adequate illumination in the Auto modes. The designers seem to have had some fun with tiny LEDs because they also use some to show the distance ranges (in tiny figures) over which the Auto control is effective. In my example these are erratic in operation
The battery compartment is similar to that of the Pentax AF280T but the door catch is much stronger. This can be a weakness in many units, including those of Pentax.
With regard to the foot module, there is a range of them to provide dedication to the major camera brands of the time. They were evidently designed for fit-and-forget, not for frequent changing, because they use a simple circuit card edge connection; I think that is reasonable. Many Ebay sellers of Sunpak DX units even seem unaware that the module is detachable - it was probably fitted for them by the dealer when new. The module for Pentax dedication is the PT-1D or PT-2D, and I review one here : https://www.pentaxforums.com/accessoryreviews/sunpak-interface-module-pt-2d-...rd-ext-11.html
I am not a fan of heavy flash units on camera hot shoes in case they break either their own foot or the camera mounting. This Sunpak is about as heavy as I would tolerate and otherwise I prefer a hammerhead unit on a bracket.
| |
| Review of: Vivitar Electronic Flash Meter 2 by Lord Lucan on Wed January 19, 2022 | Rating: 8 | View more reviews | |
Views: 1471
Reviews: 1
|
A well made and quite small device. This is branded Vivitar, but looks similar to certain Shepherd units, such as the XE-88.
A sliding translucent dome can be positioned over the sensor, allowing either incident or reflected light readings. Once primed, the unit will measure a flash and display the result on a numbered row of LEDs, which will hold the display for 30 seconds and can be recalled even after that. The user transfers the number to a calculator dial which, in combination with setting a film or sensor sensitivity, will recommend an F-stop setting for the camera. The calculator ISO sensitivity scale goes up to 3200.
The meter does not need to be connected to the camera or flash unit, but it can be connected to the flash unit by a PC sync cord. The meter has a PC socket for this. A button on the meter will then trigger a test flash; this is an alternative to pressing the test button on the flash unit. The meter can also act as a trigger for a slave flash, using the same PC connection.
An incident light reading close to the subject can be taken by holding the meter there and using its remote trigger button and a long PC sync lead - the manual advises a 5 metre limit. The alternative is to trigger the flash from the test button on the flash unit, with the flash meter propped up at the subject, perhaps on a a stool (unless the model or an assistant can hold it). It is a pity they did not provide a tripod socket or at least a small plastic stand for this.
This is a device of the film era. It is less useful with a digital camera, with which a shot can be viewed after the taking. However this one only cost £5, so I bought it anyway.
| |
| Review of: Sunpak Auto 36DX by Lord Lucan on Fri January 14, 2022 | Rating: 9 | View more reviews | |
Views: 1323
Reviews: 1
|
This was probably made around 1990, late film era, and is a larger version of the 30DX which is also reviewed in this section. I guess Sunpak were using the similarly powered and immensely popular Vivitar 283 (and its improvement the 285HV) as benchmarks to improve upon. At a glance you could mistake it for one. Compared with the 283, the 36DX adds head swivel, zoom, a built-in choice of manual power levels, camera brand dedication (including film-era TTL if the camera supports it), and assured low trigger voltage safe for modern cameras (the 285HV did have some of these improvements).
The Guide Number of 36 metres is reckoned in the traditional way - ie with zoom set for a standard lens and a sensitivity of ISO 100. This cannot be directly compared with modern units, the marketing of which quotes Guide Numbers at maximum zoom, to sound more favourable. The Guide Number of the 36X would also be significantly higher at its maximum zoom. It is ironic that although its name refers to its Guide Number in meters, the distance scale shows only feet.
It feels solid, and the indexed swivel/tilt/zoom movements work nicely. The zoom head can be set between 40mm and 135mm, and if it is detached you are supposed to get 35mm, but I've not managed to detach mine despite reading the manual. It is a pity it cannot go down to 28mm, as I might use for indoor group shots; the manual does mention an additional wide angle diffuser as part of an optional filter kit, but you might not find one today.
The controls are on the back. There is the OFF/HV/BATTERY switch and a slider to set film (or sensor) sensitivity between ISO 25 and 1000. That suits film but is low for a digital camera, although you could extrapolate because it is only a slide rule to recommend camera aperture and has no connection to the internals. Another switch selects between three Auto modes (red yellow and green), Manual, and TTL (film era TTL, not P-TTL) . A further slider sets the manual energy level with five values from full, down to 1/16, in one stop intervals.
At the bottom is a plug-in module which includes the foot. There is a range of these modules which provide dedication to the major camera brands of the time. That for Pentax is the PT-1D or PT-2D. These are evidently designed for fit-and-forget, not for frequent changing, because as they use a simple circuit card edge connection; I think that is reasonable. Many Ebay sellers of Sunpak DX units seem unaware that their unit is modular. I review a PT-2D module here : https://www.pentaxforums.com/accessoryreviews/sunpak-interface-module-pt-2d-and-cord-ext-11.html
There is a fold-out rectangular matt reflector above the head which is intended to give a catch-light when the head is tilted upwards. There is also a test button and indicator light to check adequate illumination in the Auto modes.
The battery compartment is similar to that of the Pentax AF280T but the door catch is much stronger (a weakness in many units, including Pentax's). There is a socket for a high voltage input from an external battery pack or a mains adaptor.
If you are looking for an older flash unit for a modern DSLR this has a lot to recommend it. It has a safe trigger voltage (at least with the Pentax module) and it has the Auto modes. Unfortunately Auto modes were dropped from many designs from around 2000 in favour of TTL, but many users consider Auto gives better results than modern digital TTL systems (P-TTL etc). No flash exposure system is as good as the film era TTL (used on the Pentax LX, Nikon F3 etc) but for technical reasons that cannot be implemented with present day digital sensors. Auto flash exposure modes are also independent of camera brand. The dedication features other than TTL are not a big deal - they do things like set the camera shutter to sync speed, which is trivial to do yourself anyway.
| |
| Review of: Sunpak DX-8R by Lord Lucan on Wed November 3, 2021 | Rating: 8 | View more reviews | |
Views: 9069
Reviews: 3
|
A unit from the film era, consisting of a body and a separate flash ring, joined by a coiled cable that plugs into the body but is fixed to the ring. Jessops sold it for £130 in the UK in 1988 (plus £10 for the DX module), and I snapped up this near mint one from Ebay when I saw its start price of £9, and was the sole bidder. It came in a nice carry case which seems to have been supplied originally with these things.
Guide number is 8 metres. It has Manual, Auto and TTL modes. The Manual mode has five power levels from full down to 1/16th. The built-in slide rule for the flash formula goes from ISO 25 to [only] 1000, so you need to extrapolate or do your own maths for higher ISOs. The maximum distance in Auto mode is 1 metre, irrespective of the ISO setting (as was usual for flash units of this era).
As one of the Sunpak DX series, it must be used with a plug-in module dedicated to your camera brand - that for Pentax is the PT-1D or PT-2D. The module fits to the bottom of the body and provides the hot-shoe foot and the photo-sensor for the Auto mode. Sunpak also made an un-dedicated module which I understand had only the central connecting pin in the foot.
The dedication module was designed for film era cameras such as the LX and A-series, and on a modern DSLR the TTL mode is incompatible and I have found the dedication features work in a somewhat limited way (depending on the camera mode). I don't miss the dedication in macro usage - it is mainly about setting the camera to sync speed and showing "Flash Ready" in the viewfinder. The TTL capability would have been useful, but on the other hand test shots for exposure are easy with a digital camera.
It is well made, and the battery door on the body has a strong catch arrangement (unlike many other flash units). The body takes four AA batteries so is about as heavy as mid-power general purpose unit such as the Pentax AF280T. It also has a connector for an alternative high voltage supply. I measured the trigger voltage at 4.3 volts, safe for modern cameras. The flash ring has a 52mm male filter thread which is not a size much used by Pentax lenses; my M100 macro lens has a 49mm filter thread so I have to use a 49-52 step ring to mount it.
Recommended as long as you don't expect the bells and whistles of a modern digital unit.
| |
| Review of: Sunpak Interface Module PT-2D and Cord EXT-11 by Lord Lucan on Mon June 28, 2021 | Rating: 7 | View more reviews | |
Views: 1433
Reviews: 1
|
This module and cord came to me with a Sunpak Auto 555 hammerhead flash unit (also known as the G4500DX). The cord also fits certain other Sunpak units including the 622. The module has a photo sensor; the flash unit has its own photo sensor but I believe the module's sensor takes over when fitted, so the light is measured at the camera even if the unit is separated from it. It has three hot-shoe contacts (plus neutral return) which would match a contemporary Pentax camera such as the LX.
The EXT-11 cord has a moulding at one end that fits and connects to the module neatly, and the other end has a multi-pin plug that fits a socket on the flash unit. The cable between is coiled and very substantial; it stretches to a metre comfortably and probably more, but I did not want to over-do it. I find the best route for the coil is looped under the lens.
I tested the combination (ie 555 flash unit, EXT-11 cord and PT-2D module) on an LX camera, comparing the behaviour with a Pentax AF280T which was designed for the LX. In all of the 555's modes, the flash ready indicator in the LX viewfinder worked and the shutter speed was set to Sync, as with the AF280T *. The TTL mode also seemed to work; I have not developed the film but the flash power was obviously less than full when full was not required. However the 555 combination did not provide any viewfinder flash confirmation (with blinking LED) after the shot, which the AF280T does. Whether this was a shortcoming of the PT-2D, the EXT-11, or the 555 itself, I do not know.
I also tested the combination on a Pentax K-1. Again the viewfinder showed when the flash was ready, but there was no after flash confirmation. The AF280T also failed to provide after confirmation on the K-1. Automatic setting of the shutter speed was a complex matter. With the camera in Av mode the 555 combination would not pull the shutter speed up from a slow value appropriate to the ambient light, resulting in over-exposure. In the K-1's M mode however, it would reduce a set high shutter speed down to sync speed, but not raise it from a lower speed - which is good as it allows slow speed sync. When the K-1 was in the green Auto mode, the shutter went to 1/80 but with an aperture not necessarily appropriate for the flash.
Obviously I did not try the TTL mode with the K-1 because film era TTL flash is incompatible with a modern DSLR. Nor did I try every combination of DSLR camera mode with flash unit mode, instead following the general principle of the lens aperture being the principle controller of flash exposure, notwithstanding automation. Comprehensive results of using the AF280T with various DSLR modes are covered in Stevebrot's review of the AF280T **.
My conclusion is that the dedication facilities enabled by this module and cord are somewhat limited, although with units other than the 555 it may be different. I shall use the camera in manual mode, setting shutter and aperture myself, something I have always done anyway, but I miss the lack of viewfinder confirmation after the shot.
* Except in the AF280T's "M" mode which is a deliberately simple mode for non-Pentax cameras.
** https://www.pentaxforums.com/accessoryreviews/pentax-af-280t.html Module and Cord used with a Pentax K-1 and Sunpak 555  | |
| Review of: Sunpak 555 Dedicated Auto Flash by Lord Lucan on Fri June 25, 2021 | Rating: 8 | View more reviews | |
Views: 5249
Reviews: 3
|
Also known in some markets as the G4500DX, this unit has a guide number of 45 metres and a head that tilts and swivels. It is another variation of the large Sunpak late film era hammerheads, and one of the more recent because the sensitivity scale is marked with "ISO" rather than "ASA" (although DIN numbers are also present) and at ISO 1600 the maximum is a stop higher than most.
To make this review self-standing, I will repeat what I said in my review of the 455 where they share features. The 555 could be regarded as the de-luxe version of the 455.
It is generally well made, except that the battery holder uses leaf spring contacts rather than superior coil springs, and it is fiddly to get the batteries in and out of their holder. The holder is removable and I prefer to recharge the six AA NiCad batteries in the holder as a block rather than removing them individually every time. Sunpak did offer a block-like NiCad battery cluster and charger as an extra, but you probably won't find one now.
The batteries are housed in the head rather than the handle, which makes it a bit top-heavy (not so noticable on a heavy camera). The battery door is strong enough, a weakness on many other units.
There is a socket for a high voltage power supply from a battery pack carried on a shoulder strap or belt, or from a mains adaptor. Other available extras, which can be hard to find today, included an alternative bracket for TLRs, and filter holders, telephoto and wide angle adaptors; the way these latter fit on the head is rather flaky - the Pentax AF400T did it better.
It is designed for use with camera brand specific adaptors that enable dedication features, although it can also be used without. Those adaptors fit in the camera hot shoe and connect by coiled cable to the flash unit. I have reviewed the Pentax-specific adaptor separately here : https://www.pentaxforums.com/accessoryreviews/sunpak-interface-module-pt-2d-and-cord-ext-11.html . There is an alternative simple PC sync lead for use without such an adaptor.
I measured the trigger voltage as 6.6V, correct polarity, using the simple sync lead, and 4.9v through the EXT-11 lead and Pentax module. So it is safe for modern Pentax cameras at least.
There are three basic modes : Manual, Auto and TTL. The Manual and Auto modes each have no less than seven levels. The manual power level goes down to 1/64 ie a Guide Number of 5.6 metres. The TTL mode is possible only with the specific camera brand adaptor, and it is film era technology, not usable with the P-TTL system on DSLRs. The controls are all on the back and the arrangement of overlapping sliders is ingeneous. However some of the sliders are rather stiff and I had to do a repair on mine as a result *.
The Auto control seems to be accurate. There is a test button and indicator light to check for adequate illumination in Auto mode.
It has been said that the 555 is basically the same as the 522 but with a larger Guide Number; In fact, while similar in outline, the 522 belonged to a previous generation which had rotary control dials on the sides of the unit, and, importantly, had a high trigger voltage which could damage a modern camera **. And while the 522 and its generation had a fragile sync lead connection, a miniature jack plug, there is nothing fragile about that of the 555 - it is industrial. It seems that Sunpak had learned a lesson here.
I bought mine used from Ebay for £28 plus shipping, but £40-50 would be more typical. The prices are much lower than the equivalent Pentax AF400T. Photo below shows it on a K-1 with battery grip.
* https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/189-repairs-warranty-service/427316-sunpak-555-g4500dx-repair.html
** http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html Sunpak 555 and PT-2D Adaptor fitted on a K-1 with Battery Grip  Control Panel  | |
| Review of: Sunpak SP 140 by Lord Lucan on Thu June 17, 2021 | Rating: 3 | View more reviews | |
Views: 3390
Reviews: 1
|
I bought this from Ebay for about £2 as a demonstration example of an absolutely basic flash unit, and also of a high trigger voltage. I am not intending to take pictures with it.
The only control is the ON-OFF switch. Also on the back is a "Ready" light and a look-up table relating film speed, camera aperture, and subject distance. A short sync lead is permanently attached, with a PC plug on the end to connect into a socket on a camera, or alternatively into a socket on the unit itself which carries through to its hot shoe. In the former case, the contacts in the hot shoe are dead - ie it becomes a cold shoe. There is a metal shorting stud on which the PC plug can be touched to fire a test shot; this confirms that it fires, not of course that the result was necessarily satisfactory.
I measured the trigger voltage as about 180 volts which could damage the electronics of a modern camera or slave trigger - any camera made after about 1990 could be at risk, not just digital ones. As can be understood from the last paragraph, the high voltage would be present whether the hot shoe or the sync cord was used for the connection, and modern cameras are vulnerable to high trigger voltages however the connection is made; it is sometimes believed that camera sync sockets can stand higher voltages than hot shoe receptacles, but this may or may not be the case.
With alkaline batteries it charges up in about 6 seconds, and each shot uses its full charge. The construction quality is good, and the battery door, a weakness in much more expensive units, is adequate.
This unit would have been at home in its day providing direct flash on a simple manual film camera such as a Spotmatic or K1000. But its Guide Number of 14 metres is almost as low as flash units go, and having only a manual mode the user would have needed to estimate subject distance for every shot, and be able to change lens aperture. A unit with even a single Auto mode would be far easier to use, for example for snapshots at a social gathering, at which, with an Auto mode, you could set the lens aperture once and not think about exposure or subject distance again all evening.
There is no point in using a unit as basic or low powered as this today because there are plenty of alternative vintage units on the used market that have both manual and auto modes, and at almost give-away prices - and plenty with low trigger voltages for safe use on a modern camera.
| |
| Review of: Jessop Zoom Slide Duplicator by Lord Lucan on Sat June 5, 2021 | Rating: 8 | View more reviews | |
Views: 3822
Reviews: 2
|
Dissatisfied with copying old slides and negs with a light box, I thought I would try a duplicator, and I prefer it. I chose this Jessop's one after learning that some duplicators have no focus adjustment, while this one does. The logic of the focus-free type is that the slide or film is always at the same distance, but this overlooks the range of slide holder thicknesses which have changed considerably over the period of the ones I have. The duplicator has a small fixed aperture, around F16 I believe.
Technically, despite the name, it does not have a zoom lens but rather a variable focal length lens. Zoom lenses maintain their focus while changing focal length, and this does not. There is therefore a separate focus adjustment, which I consider an advantage as I mentioned above. The "zoom" adjustment is by a smoothly turning ring, but the focussing is rather clunky, a straight telescopic in-and-out with a locking thumbscrew. This is unfortunate because focussing is a more critical operation than zooming, and in fact I have no use for zooming because I shall do my copying 1:1 with any cropping in post-processing. I guess the "zoom" function was the marketing headline and focussing was taken fror granted*, so the zoom control got the better treatment.
Being designed for film cameras, ie full frame, an APS-C or MFT camera will crop the image. The zoom function only crops the image further. You therefore need to use this device with a full-frame digital camera or its usefulness is rather restricted. There would be no problem copying 110 format film of course.
The resulting images seem sharp enough for the old pictures I shall be copying. So far I have copied some slides and the results have a slightly faded or discoloured look (unedited samples below) but that is probably because of their age. I shall try to brighten them up in PP. I have not done any formal testing.
My copying set up is to place a flash unit at low manual power (GN 8 metres) about half a metre away on the far side of the duplicator. and I get the right exposure for the session by varying the camera sensitivity by trial and error - typically around ISO 400. While the film holders have six or nine frames, the film does not need to be cut to that length. Unfortunately the film and slide holders have no indexing - ie there is no click when a frame is aligned so you have to adjust each one for the shot with the help of the camera viewfinder or live view.
* Or even considered a down-side - in the late film era some very basic point-and-shoot cameras were trumpeted as "Focus Free!"
| |
| Review of: Vivitar 283 by Lord Lucan on Fri May 14, 2021 | Rating: 5 | View more reviews | |
Views: 26376
Reviews: 7
|
I had six flash units already but saw a 283 very cheap and was curious to see what this unit, introduced in 1970, was like - being the most widely sold (and recommended?) flash unit ever.
It has a Guide Number of 36 (metres, standard coverage angle) so at the top end of medium power, leaving the nearest equivalent film era Pentax, the AF280T, significantly behind. It is large and heavy for a hot shoe mounted unit (as are the more powerful units of today). Maybe that is why there are reports of broken feet, but I understand there was (is?) a minor industry supplying replacements. There is no camera dedication or any form of TTL control..
The head can tilt vertically but not swivel laterally. If I were to consider the 283 as my main unit, that would be a deal-breaker because I sometimes take full height portraits in portrait orientation with bounce flash off a ceiling. To be honest, with the reports of broken feet, I would be nervous anyway about the heavy 283 hanging sideways off the hot shoe in portrait mode; I am not going to try it.
It has a plug-in sensor* in the front. This incorporates a knob which allows selection between a single full power manual mode, and four auto modes controlled by the photosensor. This sensor module can be pulled out and put on the camera hot shoe via a "sensor holder"; the sensor holder is then linked to the 283 with a lead and plug, so the 283 can be used separated from the camera. I do not have that holder and lead, but it seems to be for those who want to hold up the flash with their left hand like an old magnesium flash pan, perhaps to overcome the 283's lack of head swivel. Vivitar make a lot of this mode in the manual, and sold a pistol grip for it - somewhat like the Pentax Hot Shoe Grip. Some Sunpak hammerhead units also had this ability to use the sensor separately on the camera hot shoe. For all that, I have never seen a flash used in that way, but perhaps it was common in 1970.
The four auto modes are colour coded yellow, red, blue and purple (actually pastel shades with black lettering over). The maximum recommended range is 13 metres in the yellow mode (indepedent of sensitivity). The maximum sensitivity covered by the calculator on the side is only ISO 400 (this is 1970 tech!), but you can extrapolate to higher values, reducing aperture accordingly. The calculator dial can be illuminated, which is cool 
It is possible to plug in a manual controller (the VP-1 "Varipower") in place of the standard sensor. It allows a range of manual levels but without the auto modes. I don't have this either, and they are not particularly cheap on Ebay. There are also accessories such as an external power pack and telephoto/filter adaptor.
Another deal breaker for me would be the high trigger voltage which could damage a modern camera. I measured mine at around 200v. I understand that later models (made outside Japan) had a lower voltage, but Vivitar made no change to the model number so it is a gamble whether you get a safe one, and most Ebay sellers won't have a clue. The high voltage was OK on the mechanical film cameras for which this was designed.
I know that many 283 users extol its virtues. It was ground-breaking when first introduced but it seems to me that its reputation has been somewhat self-perpetuating. I understand it is reliable (except for the foot breakages) and it was used in its day by professionals. While you can overcome some of its shortcomings - by adding a voltage reducer, a swivel bracket, the Varipower manual controller, extrapolating for higher ISO values, and replacing the foot - these add expense, inconvenience and encumbrance, and other equivalent flash units of the film era such as the Vivitar Series 1 600, and the Sunpak 383, obviated by design the need for at least some of those kludges. Even the related Vivitar 285HV was a significant improvement. This was an interesting unit to play with on an old film camera, but I won't normally be using it again. It may be useful as a remote flash in a studio type situation.
* I use Vivitar terminolgy in this review. They call this a sensor but it is also a controller.
| |
| Review of: Calumet Umbrella Adaptor by Lord Lucan on Tue March 30, 2021 | Rating: 8 | View more reviews | |
Views: 927
Reviews: 1
|
This is a solidly made, all-metal, standard type of umbrella clamp, with a lockable tilt hinge, a hole and clamp for the umbrella stem, and a shoe for the flash unit. The bottom is designed to fit (I understand) a 5/8" post on a special lighting stand, but comes with an insert to convert this to accept a 1/4" or 3/8" screw of a camera tripod. The clamp screw for the stand head (or insert) acts as the clamp for the swivel movement. The tilt action is with very definite clicks (metal teeth) and is then locked with a clamp screw. The umbrella stem hole is slightly angled so that the flash head is more-or-less aimed at the centre of the umbrella.
The receptacle (or shoe) for the flash unit also has a clamp screw rather than being held in by spring action like on most cameras. This is a cold shoe (ie no electrical contacts) but is wrongly described as a hot shoe in the Wex catalogue. This is inconvenient if you are using an older flash unit without a built-in radio or optical trigger, and want to trigger it with a PC sync lead. I put a small adaptor between the cold shoe and the flash unit which converts it into a hot shoe and provides a socket for the sync lead.
A minor niggle is that the wingnut "wings" for the bottom clamp swing below the bottom face of the device, so you cannot turn it if the bracket is on the broader mounting platform of a camera tripod.
| |
| Review of: Sunpak GX17 by Lord Lucan on Sat November 28, 2020 | Rating: 1 | View more reviews | |
Views: 3948
Reviews: 1
|
I inherited this unit which I believe dates from the 1970s. The build quality is adequate. It is as basic as can be, the only mode being its full feeble energy discharge with a Guide Number of 17 metres at ISO 100. There are of course no dedication features. It has an ON/OFF switch, a hot shoe contact and also a short attached sync cable neatly stored in a groove in the side. For a low budget flash unit to have such a lead in addition to the hot shoe reflects its age - many cameras of its time had X sync sockets but no hot shoe receptacle. There is a metal stud on the back for testing the flash by electrically shorting the sync plug on it; this only checks that the flash works, not that the exposure will be correct like the test buttons do on later units.
Lacking automation, you must use the Flash Formula to set the lens aperture according to the subject distance and film speed. There is a chart on the side of the body to help in this.
There is no tilt or swivel - it would not really have the power for bounce flash anyway. The direct flash gives pictures a "crime scene" look, and subjects the red-eye, and they fade into a dark background.
Worst of all, I measured the sync trigger voltage at 255 volts, more than enough to ruin the electronics of a modern camera. The Botzilla website on strobe voltages reports 288 volts. To be safe, do not attach this to any camera made after about 1980 without being sure the camera can tolerate the high voltage.
The only use I can think for this is for a user of an old all-mechanical camera to have in the kit bag in case an unexpected need for flash arises. There are lots of these (and others of its family) on Ebay, with some being priced up to £10 or even £20. Far better (and safe) units can be had for those prices.
As for my own, I have thrown the horrid thing away. I did not want to risk anyone in the future attaching it to their camera, or mine.
| |
| Review of: Sunpak Auto 455 (G4500 outside North America) by Lord Lucan on Wed November 25, 2020 | Rating: 8 | View more reviews | |
Views: 2201
Reviews: 1
|
A large, powerful hammerhead similar to the 555 (or G4500DX outside North America) and 544 (or 4205G) - I shall come to the differences. The Guide number is 45 (metres @ISO 100).
It is well made, except that the battery holder uses leaf spring contacts rather than superior coil springs, and it is fiddly to get the batteries in and out of their holder. The battery holder is removable so I prefer to recharge the six AA NiCad batteries in it as a permanent cluster rather than removing them individually every time. Sunpak offered a block-like NiCad battery cluster and charger as an extra, but you probably won't find one now.
The batteries are housed in the head rather than the handle, which makes it a bit top-heavy (not so noticable on a heavy camera). The battery door is strong enough, a weakness on many other units.
There is a socket for a high voltage input from a belt-carried battery pack or a mains adaptor. Other available extras included telephoto and wide angle adaptors, and an alternative bracket for TLRs, but these accessories would be hard to find today.
The controls are all on the back. There is the OFF/HV/BATTERY switch and a slider to set film/sensor sensitivity. This is a slide rule moving a row of F-numbers in a window, with no connection to the internals. The highest ISO on the scale is 1600. The third switch selects between three auto modes (red yellow and green) and a single full discharge manual mode. Each auto mode displays a line showing the distances over which it will be effective; the upper end of each line, and the associated permanent red/yellow/green marks, are opposite the recommended F-number in the slide rule window. It is a good arrangement.
The Auto control seems to be accurate. There is a test button and indicator light to check adequate illumination. My unit came with a filter holder which clips to the front in a rather flimsy way; the telephoto adaptor would also fit this way.
There is no TTL mode or camera dedication. The connection to the camera is a simple coiled lead to the camera's PC sync X socket. The plug on the flash unit end is sturdy (unlike on some other units) even though it looks like a Third World mains plug. I measured the trigger voltage as 6.6V, correct polarity, so it is safe for modern cameras.
I bought two as a job lot, used and "untested" from Ebay for £12 - far lower than the typical price of the equivalent Pentax AF400T. The latter does have camera dedication and film-era TTL, but that older TTL system cannot be used on a modern digital camera anyway so is a limited advantage.
Certain other Sunpack hammerhead flash units of the time are very similar and obviously shared manufacturing parts and accessories. The 555 (or G4500DX) differs in additionally having seven manual power levels (from full down to 1/64), and can use optional modules to dedicate it to particular film era cameras, even offering film-era TTL control if the camera supports it. The Sunpak 544 (or 4205G) has the slightly lower Guide Number of 42, but like the 555 has a range of seven manual settings; its setting dials are more complex to work with and the sync lead connects to the unit with a flimsy 2.5mm jack plug that has been reported as being easily broken off.
| |
| Review of: PENTAX AFT1 Telephoto Adapter by Lord Lucan on Sat November 14, 2020 | Rating: 7 | View more reviews | |
Views: 10439
Reviews: 6
|
The previous reviews, especially the last one, covered all aspects. I am only posting this to add a picture of it fitted to an AF280T, and to add a price point. I got mine on Ebay for £1.50 (about $2) plus the postage (which was more).
 | |
| Review of: Vivitar Automatic Extension Tubes AT-22 [K Mount] by Lord Lucan on Fri November 6, 2020 | Rating: 9 | View more reviews | |
Views: 2804
Reviews: 2
|
This set of tubes is well made; they are metal and fit smoothly. The coupling mechanisms work well even when all three are stacked. All functions work with a film era manual focus camera body and lenses.
However, with a modern DSLR, as found, there is no electrical communication from the camera body. The camera seems unaware a lens is even present so pictures could only be taken in manual exposure and manual focusing mode, and with the lens aperture fully open. To improve matters some black anodising can be scraped off the body end of the extension tubes to allow a certain electrical contact with the camera. This should be at the "seventh" camera contact, which is the one closest to the bottom of the mount on the camera, slightly clockwise from 6 o'clock looking at the camera. You need to work out where this touches the flange of the extension tube and scrape there. The same matter is discussed in the review of the Jessops extension tubes in this section.
I attach a picture of my flange, as modified. Only a tiny area of exposed metal is needed and I made it with a modelling knife and flat needle file, with the flange detached as shown. This small modification allows the lens to stop down when an exposure reading or the picture itself is taken, just as a manual lens would act if used without the tubes. I have only used the extension tubes with an older manual lens (M100 Macro), so cannot comment on how a modern lens with electrical functions would behave.
I enabled the electrical contact only on the shortest extension tube. There is no need for any electrical continuity in tubes stacked further out, and so I always use with the shortest tube against the camera body; the length combinations still available cover all my needs. My use of macro is in slow and deliberate situations like copying, so lack of auto focus, auto exposure etc is not an issue.
I got mine for £10 (plus postage) from Ebay, and it was in mint condition with caps. I'm surprised to read of people paying $100+ in the reviews of similar tubes. There are plenty on Ebay for around £15 - 25.
 | |
| Review of: Pentax Digital Spotmeter by Lord Lucan on Fri July 10, 2020 | Rating: 9 | View more reviews | |
Views: 17371
Reviews: 2
|
Measures EV from 1 to 20 in 1/3 stop increments, displayed in the viewfinder, which has a diopter adjustment. The measuring angle is 1 degree. The rotating scales cover photographic exposure and there is also an IRE (Institute of Radio Engineers) scale. Takes one 4LR44 battery.
It is quite simple to use : aim at the target and pull the trigger. Read the EV value and transfer it to the calculator dial around the lens. This offers ASA values from 6-6400 , possibly a bit restrictive on modern DSLRs, but you can always extrapolate - after all this device is for pre-planned or slow ponderous shooting.
Ansel Adams used one like this for his zone system! This meter is designed to be used with such a system, or at least to be conscious of the principles of it. But modern DSLRs offer a spot metering option anyway, although probably not as accurate as this device.
 | |
| Review of: Sunpak Auto 4205G Thyristor (Auto 544 in some markets) by Lord Lucan on Sun June 21, 2020 | Rating: 9 | View more reviews | |
Views: 3715
Reviews: 2
|
This is a large and powerful hammerhead from the film era but usable with DSLRs. It has a Guide Number of 42 metres and it goes well with larger cameras like the K-1 or medium formats. It has handsome classic styling, unlike some hammerheads which look like (or really are) adaptations from hotshoe units. It looks similar to several other Sunpak hammerheads, particularly the Auto 555 (or G4500GX) which has a slightly higher guide number of 45 and is also reviewed in this section.
It is generally well made, except that the battery holder uses leaf spring contacts rather than superior coil springs, and it is a bit difficult to get the batteries in and out. The battery holder is removable so I shall be inclined to remove it and recharge the six AA NiCad batteries in it as a permanent cluster rather than removing the batteries individually every time. Sunpak offered a block-like NiCad battery cluster and charger as an extra, but you probably won't find one now. Also I find the tilt and swivel movements rather stiff; this could be an issue as the manual warns you not to force them. I might disassemble and put some silicone grease on the mechanism.
Surprisingly the batteries are housed in the head rather than the handle, which makes it a bit top-heavy (not so noticable on a heavy camera). With the handle/head part detached, you feel you could bang in nails with it! The battery door is adequately strong, a weakness on many other units.
There is a socket for a high voltage input from a belt-carried battery pack or a mains adaptor. Other available extras included telephoto and wide angle adaptors, and a alternative bracket for TLRs, but any of these accessories would be hard to find today.
The Auto and Manual controls are by separate and comprehensive dials on opposite ends of the head. The back has the on/off and Auto/Manual switches, and the various indicating lights. The controls may be a bit too comprehensive for someone who prefers simplicity, but they are still simpler than the digital display menus on some modern top-end units.
Unlike the unconnected calculator dials or slide rules found on many other units, these dials really do control the unit's flash energy level. The Auto dial has an ASA range from 25 to 800, and for any setting it offers a range of four aperture stops (eg at ASA 100 : from f2.8 to f8) in 1/3 stop increments. For comparison, the similar model 555 offers a range of seven stops, no less, and the Pentax AF400T offers a four stop range but only at three apertures (eg at ASA 100 : f4, f8 and f11). Because you can change ASA at any time with digital cameras, the available range of apertures is greatly extended anyway with any of these units; for example with the 4205 on a Pentax K-1, setting the ISO to 100 (the K-1's minimum) you could choose f2.8, or setting it to 800 (the unit's maximum) you could choose f22 - a seven stop range.
The Manual dial on the other side of the unit has a knob on the inner dial that allows a choice of energy levels over a seven-stop range - from full power to 1/64 power, which corresponds to a GN of about 6. The outer part of the dial is the normal slide rule that evaluates the aperture setting versus distance.
There are no TTL modes or camera dedication. The connection to the camera is a simple coiled lead to the camera's PC sync X socket. I measured the trigger voltage as 6.9V, correct polarity, so it is OK for modern cameras (for comparison the Pentax AF280T was 7.8V).
I find the Auto control accurate. I tested it over a range of energy levels and apertures and the exposure was consistent. It is so powerful that in a normal room you can just aim it in the general direction of the ceiling and there is soft lighting everywhere.
I bought mine used but mint from Ebay for the very low price of £13.50, but £40-50 would be more typical.The prices are much lower than the equivalent Pentax AF400T. The latter does have film-era TTL and dedication, but not P-TTL so those features are of less use for a DSLR.
| |
| Review of: Pentax Motor Drive LX by Lord Lucan on Sun February 9, 2020 | Rating: 8 | View more reviews | |
Views: 11711
Reviews: 2
|
The drive itself attaches neatly to the LX, but requires the addition of a power source of which there is a choice of three : the pistol grip "Battery Grip M" holding 12 AA batteries (which I have), the "Ni-Cd Battery Pack LX" , and the external "Power Pack M". The first two screw to the underside of the drive itself, and the third is a mains-powered unit for use in a studio or laboratory, and connects to the drive with a lead. The Ni-Cd Battery Pack LX is meant for the LX, but the Ni-Cd Battery Pack M will also fit but with a slight mismatch in size because it was designed for the MX camera. I believe the pistol grip was partly to enable press photographers to hold it high above a crowd to take photos and is the same as that for the MX and posssibly also for the K2DMD.
The drive has a dial to select off, continuous, single frame, and rewind, and an inner dial for the continuous speed. The pistol grip also has an off/single/continuous selector, and a shutter trigger convenient for the forefinger. Remote control systems can also be connected to it.
To fit the drive to the camera, two small screwed covers (with coin slots) must first be removed from the camera body, under the cassette and film take-up locations. This does not fog the film, but the covers could easily be dropped and lost; the drive does have two recesses to store them meanwhile.
I have not used the drive much, but shortly after buying it (used) it had a mechnical failure, which I was able to repair.
Do not buy a motor drive without a power supply, or it will be useless. I would also wonder if the battery in a NiCad unit was still good after (by now) 30+ years. Beware also that many sellers list LX winders as motor drives, but they are different things. The motor drive does up to 5fps while the winder only does 2fps and should cost significantly less.
  | |
| Review of: Cobra Macrofalsh by Lord Lucan on Sat December 2, 2017 | Rating: 6 | View more reviews | |
Views: 5503
Reviews: 2
| [Note on 19 July 2020 : I have added a Postscript having bought a second unit and done further experiments. The new one is labelled "Centon MR 20 Ringflash" but is otherwise identical.]
This is a basic, but for my purposes adequate, ring flash. Mine was used from ebay where there are plenty (along with the Centon, Vivitar, and Starblitz equivalents) at bargain prices. Ensure you get the adaptor rings and connecting lead; mine was missing the hot shoe adaptor but that is easily replaced.
Oddly, there is an "On" button but no means of turning it off other than removing the batteries. There is a "Test" button, but the lack of exposure confirmation makes it rather pointless; that would have mattered more in film days but a digital test shot costs nothing. There is only one auto power level (at f5.6 at 100 ASA), and the one manual level is by a slider obscuring the sensor. The lack of other (reduced) power modes hardly matters as it is only GN 5 to start with.
I find I need to press the "On" button again to recharge it after every shot, but perhaps that is only a fault in my example. It is consequently slow to work with, but I do not mind as I mainly take technical pictures. It might be less satisfactory for eg small animal photography. [But see Postscipt]
The battery door is a weakness; it takes the force of the battery contact springs and on mine the tiny catch tabs had broken off. There were signs of Duck Tape use by the previous owner, but a plastic cable tie used as a garter around the body holds the door shut and can be slid on and off readily. It is incomprehensible why so many flash units, even expensive Pentax and Mecablitz ones, suffer from weak battery doors; most childen's toys have better :-(
POSTSCRIPT :
Fed up with the broken battery door latch on my first copy, I bought another from Ebay, cheap (£8) "for spares" because it lacked attachment rings and the connecting lead, which I already had. It seems that the broken latch was not the only fault on my first unit - the new one does not need switching on again after every shot like the first one did.
This is not a thyristor unit. That means that in Auto mode, when the subject has been sufficiently lit it dumps its remaining energy rather than saving it towards the next shot. This makes re-charging just as slow when in Auto mode as in full Manual mode.
| |
| Review of: Jessop 300 TTL by Lord Lucan on Wed October 18, 2017 | Rating: 8 | View more reviews | |
Views: 3533
Reviews: 1
|
This is an independent and cheaper equivalent to the Pentax AF280T, and I bought it c2000 as a replacement when my 280T broke down. (I subsequently mended the 280T, but two units are handy).
I have measured the trigger voltage as 5.9V, correct polarity (the AF280T was 7.8V).
The head pulls in and out for wide, normal and two telephoto positions. There are two auto modes (for F4 and F8 at 100 ISO) and the TTL mode. At first sight there seems to be no manual mode, but in fact the TTL mode is a manual mode if the camera does not provide a TTL signal, or the unit is off-camera without the auxiliary connections being made. There are no reduced power manual modes.
Construction is what you expect for a budget unit, but in the battery door department, which seems to be a weak point with many flash units, it is fine : the door slides in a groove, the downside of which is that it could be dropped and lost while changing batteries.
| |
| Review of: Pentax 6x7 Grip by Lord Lucan on Tue September 12, 2017 | Rating: 8 | View more reviews | |
Views: 9218
Reviews: 4
|
This grip, which is for the left hand, is an excellent accessory. The dealer who sold me the camera said it was virtually essential; I thought it was a sales pitch but he was right. The 6x7 is a very heavy beast and my left hand is holding the grip all the time; for focussing I use my right and then move it to press the shutter button, so for the actual shot I am gripping the camera body firmly with both hands - a different practice perhaps from 35mm.
The grip also makes a good carrying handle; even if you also have a neck strap, when walking around (I've done 6 miles of beach) it is a relief to alternate between neck strap and grip to avoid neck-ache or arm ache respectively. It is solidly made and the polished wood has a lovely retro-look. The knurled nut does have a tendency to loosen itself though - needs watching.
My only complaint is that the accessory shoe is plain metal. They might at least have put in a basic PC flash connection. I do put an unbranded hot shoe adaptor in it (and my flash unit into that) which has a lead to the camera X socket, but that adaptor also has spring contacts on its underside which would be shorted out by the metal of the grip's shoe. I therefore push a thin square of plastic in first to insulate it.
| |
| Review of: Pentax FF-1 Waist-Level Finder by Lord Lucan on Tue September 12, 2017 | Rating: 8 | View more reviews | |
Views: 18656
Reviews: 6
|
Simple and effective. As with any simple mirror waist-level finder (on twin-lens reflexes for example) the image is reversed and aiming and composing take some getting used to. It is an extra, not a substitute for an eye-level pentaprism. Moreover, unlike a medium format TLR, the ground glass screen in 35mm is too small for focussing without a magnifier (but it has one to fold out).
I find two uses for it :
1) Candid photography. With the camera hanging at waist level it does not look like you are taking pictures. Set the camera on Auto, and use a moderate wide-angle lens set to F8 and the hyperfocal distance. After that don't worry about anything except pressing the shutter button; do your levelling and cropping in the darkroom.
2) Copying. With the camera on a tripod on a table, pointing down, you can compose standing by the set-up looking horizontally into the finder. With a standard pentaprism you would need a step ladder. With copying you have all the time in the world to compose and focus. Not as good as the FE-1 viewfinder for this, but in my neck of the woods that and any of the other special LX viewfinders are either staggeringly expensive or simply unobtainable nowadays.
| |
| Review of: PENTAX Hot Shoe Grip by Lord Lucan on Tue September 12, 2017 | Rating: 9 | View more reviews | |
Views: 13056
Reviews: 3
|
This oddity is a handle with a hot shoe on top (three contacts, M-series era), two flash lead sockets (for a Pentax 4P Multicord), a slow sync switch on the side, and a tripod screw socket on the bottom. With a flash unit on top it looks like a stick grenade.
Otherwise, it has three purposes that I can think of :
1) To carry an untethered flash unit around the interior of a large dark building "light painting", while the camera is left on a tripod on "B" (long exposure).
2) To hand-hold a flash unit connected to the camera by a flexible lead in order to hold and aim aim the flash wherever you want.
3) To create a hammerhead flash set-up using a flash bar/bracket and a flash unit connected to the camera.
Ideally the connection from the camera to the grip should be made with a Pentax 4P lead. I have also used an unbranded hot-shoe connection lead between the camera hotshoe and a hot foot sandwiched between the grip and the flash unit (as pictured).
When using a 4P Multilead, the grip's "Slow Speed Sync" switch can disconnect the signal that the flash unit would send to the camera to set the latter at its sync speed. This allows the camera to be used at slower speeds with flash - "Slow Sync". This is a feature that the Pentax flash units of the time lacked themselves.
Another reviewer said that he could store batteries and leads inside, and that the tripod socket was weak. I have not found a way to get inside of mine, so I wonder if there are different versions. Mine is not weak at all, although if the bottom cap were removable maybe that would be a weakness.
 | |
| Review of: PENTAX AF 280T by Lord Lucan on Mon September 11, 2017 | Rating: 8 | View more reviews | |
Views: 67697
Reviews: 27
|
A nice, handsome unit. It has a swivel and tilt head, allowing the use of bounce flash off a ceiling in both horizontal and vertical format, or off a wall. It even tilts downwards a little for close-up. It comes into its own with the LX and later cameras that use TTL flash metering. This not only makes the flash easier to use, but it extends the flash range because you can use any aperture - including full. I measured the tigger voltage as 7.5 volts (Pentax themselves say 7.8 volts).
The downsides are, first, the battery door. The contact springs push the batteries so hard against it that I was afraid the little plastic catch would break. I modified mine to add a few millimeters to the battery housing depth and also replaced the springs with softer ones. But I have done model engineering in the past and would not expect most people to do this. My advice otherwise (as others have said) is to hold the door in with your thumb to take the strain while you are pulling back the catch, when both opening and closing - don't just click it in or let it fly open. And avoid Duracell batteries - I find them slightly larger than other makes (to make their claims of longer life true?). I use rechargeables with no problem.
It has no socket for a flash sync lead, either a 4P type lead (such as used to connect the AF400T) or even a simple PC lead. This means you cannot use it separately from the camera unless mounted on the accessory Pentax Hot Shoe Grip (connected with a 4P cord), or some other adaptor. Nor does it offer connection to a high voltage battery pack, even though Pentax had such a pack in their catalogue for the AF400T. In these respects the AF280T was less featured than some contemporary rivals, such as the Vivitar 283 and Sunpak 383.
Then, the lack of slow sync. On the LX at least, turning on the flash forces the camera to sync speed even if the shutter dial is set slower. Oddly, the Hot Shoe Grip to which the flash can be fitted has a slow sync switch, but it seems someone forgot to put one on the flash itself.
Again I modified mine. I re-utilised the "Finder A Check" switch on the unit to interrupt its signal to the camera that sets sync speed. Now, when I switch it off I can set the camera shutter to whatever speed I like. What I have lost is the ability to turn off the viewfinder signal that a flash exposure was satisfactory. (The reason you might want the latter ability is to allow more rapid shooting with flash, but that does not concern me).
It does tend to dwarf some of the small Pentax cameras that were contemporary with it, such as the ME Super. It could also have done with some more power, as its Guide Number of 28 is a bit near the knuckle at times for me.
Postscript : I have notice that the weight given in the summary at the top, 300 gm, must be without batteries. The unit is no use without them, and with alkaline batteries it will be around 420 gm. Another reviewer complained that it was heavy because it was full of AAs, but four AA batteries is pretty standard for mid-range flash units of this period.
I would also add that my rather high price is based on buying it used, but back when the units were still in production. I have more recently bought other copies for around £10 ( = $15 ?).
| |
