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Review of: Pentax *ist by gofour3 on Fri December 25, 2020 | Rating: 8

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The Pentax *ist was released in February 2003 at the same time as the *ist D, these were Pentax’s last film & first digital SLR’s. Pentax marketed the *ist as: “the world’s smallest 35mm autofocus SLR, combined with the highest level of quality and performance to satisfy a wide range of photographers from the most demanding professional and experienced amateur to SLR novice.” Pentax also released two lightweight FA J zoom lenses (28mm-80mm & 75mm-300mm) to go with the new *ist film camera. These were Pentax’s first lenses with no aperture ring. Build & Handling: Since the *ist is so small & light it’s obviously not made of metal, so some form of plastic was used in the construction. The *ist also has a similar cheap silver finish as the one used on some of the FA* lenses. As a result the *ist is a rather cheap delicate looking camera and does not exude the ruggedness of a similar sized Pentax ME/MX. The *ist does have metal mounts and sockets, so it could be worse! What I’m more worried about is that Pentax used plastic instead of brass gears inside the body, so you will then have similar issues with the mirror motor gears as with the MZ/ZX bodies. No way to tell if this is the case, other than opening up the body. Handling also suffers due to the small size/weight (122 x 84 x 63.5mm/335g) of the *ist and larger heavier zooms/primes do not fair well on this camera. (I tried my FA*200/2.8 and handling was awful on the *ist.) The FA Limited’s however worked very well on the *ist, so if you stick with similarly sized prime/zoom lenses then handling is fine. The right-side grip does help with handling and there is also the optional BG-20 battery grip to add more weight/size if you need it. The *ist does have a number of dials, dials on top of dials, buttons & switches, but it’s not as bad clutter wise as other AF bodies that I have. Overall, the handling of the *ist is below average compared to other cameras that I own. Note the "mode dial" is right above the "metering mode switch", so be careful when turning the mode dial that you don't also change the metering mode! This happened to me once and I found myself shooting in center-weighted metering, instead of multi-segment metering. Not the end of the world, but something to watch out for. Observations: The *ist is yet another AF camera with a headache inducing 153-page manual, so you’ll probably need to pack it along when using it for the first few weeks. Luckily the *ist is so customizable with the 17 available “Custom Functions” that once you set it up to your liking, you are good to go for most shooting situations. - Lens Usage: The *ist has the “Crippled K-mount”, so A/F/FA Series lenses set in the “A” aperture position, or FA J & newer lenses with no aperture ring will only work. (The shutter will not fire with K/M Series lenses or any lens not in the "A" aperture position) You can override this (CF17) so the shutter will release, but you can only get an accurate meter reading (center-weighted in av mode) with a lens set to its wide-open aperture. You also can set the aperture & shutter speed manually on the lens/camera (manual mode), but the cameras meter will not work. You will need to use a hand-held meter and use its reading for the camera/lens. I tested this out and it did work, but both are not really an option for me, so I only use A/F/FA lenses on the *ist. Also note Pentax F & FA soft lenses will not meter correctly as they have no "A" aperture position and any rear converter, extension tube, bellows unit or adapter will cause metering issues as well. (These do not have the required lens contacts to pass the lens info to the camera) - Focusing: There are two auto-focusing options (single & continuous) and manual focusing. AF now has eleven focusing points making the *ist the most advanced AF system of any Pentax SLR. I don’t do auto-focusing, so the switch is permanently set to manual focus and I can happily ignore a large section of the manual. When manually focusing you can use either the “focus indicator” green light in the viewfinder or just the matte focusing screen. You can also have the camera beep when your subject is in focus, but I disabled this option via the mode dial. Since the *ist has eleven AF points on the focusing screen, this adds to the cumbersome manual focusing experience. I ditched the regular viewfinder eyecup and use the Pentax “O-ME53 Viewfinder Magnifying Eyecup” instead. This and the “Refconverter A” help a lot with manual focusing - Metering Modes: Along with the superb Multi 16-segment metering, you also have spot and center-weighted metering. The multi-segment metering is the best that I have used on any Pentax film camera and is perfect if you shoot slide film, which demands accurate metering. The *ist also has exposure memory lock. - Film Loading: Film loading on the *ist is reversed compared to all the other Pentax SLR’s that I own. You put the film canister upside down in the slot on the right side and load the film on the left side. As a result, your film strips will have the image upside down. Odd and very annoying, this must have been a camera design issue and the only way Pentax could have built such a small camera without compromising their design. - Drive Modes/Winder: The *ist has a built-in 2.5 frame per-second winder with five drive modes to choose from. The “single-frame” is the one I use 99% of the time. Your other drive mode options are; Consecutive shooting, Multiple-exposure, Remote control and Self-timer. The Self-timer has two options available, 2 second delay with MLU and 12 second delay. (These are selected via CF 12) There is also an Auto Bracketing mode, but it’s activated with another button, separate from the others listed above. For rewinding you have numerous options; from end of roll automatic or manual rewind (CF 10), as well as a complete rewind or leaving the film leader out (CF 11). I have the camera configured to automatically rewind the film into the canister when the last shot on the roll is taken. - Exposure Modes: The *ist features six Program modes that you can select manually (Standard, Portrait, Landscape, Close-up, Action and Night-Scene). There is also an “Auto Picture” exposure mode and this will automatically select the one of the above program modes; selection depends on the subject’s distance, lens focal length, lighting conditions and subject's motion. Note the only Auto Picture Mode/Picture mode that works with an “A” Series lens is the “Standard” program mode. F/FA/FA J or newer lenses work with all the program modes. In addition to the program modes there are Shutter-Priority AE, Aperture-Priority AE, Metered Manual, Bulb and TTL Flash. - Shutter Speed Range: The *ist has a step-less Auto shutter speed range from 1/4000 to 30 seconds and a ½ step Manual shutter speed range from 1/4000 to 30 seconds. Not quite as good as the 1/8000 in the Z-1/Z-1p, but still very good for shooting my fast-prime lenses wide open. - DX Coding/Exposure Compensation: The *ist has DX coding or you can set the ISO manually (CF5). The ISO range of 6 to 6400/ DX coded range of 25 to 5000 is also superb. You also have exposure compensation of -3 to +3 EV in ½ EV increments. - Viewfinder Display/LCD Display Panel: The viewfinder on the *ist layout is pretty good and all the exposure/focusing info is on the bottom. Everything else, including the exposure info, is on the back LCD panel. The *ist diopter adjustment switch is accessed via an opening in the left side of the OEM eyecup. - Flash: The *ist has a small built-in retractable (RFT) TTL flash that is occasionally useful for fill-in flash or an indoor portrait. The *ist will let you know if a fill-in flash is required or you can set it to automatically discharge when needed. (The flash sync speed is 1/125 sec or slower.) The RFT & external flash are controlled by a separate flash mode button and features Red-eye reduction, automatic firing, flash on/off, Wireless and High-speed sync options. The RFT flash also drains the cameras batteries pretty quickly, so I would use one of the two dedicated external P-TTL flashes designed for the *ist instead. (The Pentax AF540FGZ & AF360FGZ are recommended for use with the *ist.) I bought the AF360FGZ and it works nicely with my *ist and you can use it alongside the RFT flash, thought it has to be “off “camera. (I also have the AF540FGZ but it's a bit too big for this little camera) Auto focus lenses (F/FA/FA J or newer) work the best with the *ist flash system. Note if you have the flash mode set to “OFF”, then the external flash will also not fire. - MLU/DOF Preview: The *ist does not have an MLU button/switch like the older Pentax MF film bodies, but instead you use the “Self-timer with 2 second delay” drive mode (CF12). The mirror flips up 2 seconds before the shutter is released, so the result is the same. The *ist DOF preview is incorporated into the ON/OFF switch on the camera. Not the best place to put it in my books, but at least there is one. - Remote Shutter Release Options: The *ist uses the wired “Cable Switch CS-205” or wireless "Remote Control F" to fire the shutter when using a tripod. - Time/Date: The *ist also has a quartz date/time imprint, which I’ll never use. - Batteries: The battery compartment is on the bottom of the camera and you need two 3V CR-2 lithium batteries. There is also the BG-20 battery grip option that lets you use “AA” batteries. You can extend the battery life by using manual focus and an external flash instead of the built-in RFT flash. - Case: The *ist uses the soft case “CF-12” which I have not been able to track down yet. Summary: I bought the *ist for my Pentax film camera collection, so I had one body in each K-Mount Series. I knew what I was getting into and did not have much hope that I would like the *ist. I still was shocked when I unboxed the *ist and my first reaction was what a cheap piece of plastic junk. But after using the *ist for a while with various lenses & films and seeing the great results I was getting, this little bugger started to grow on me. If you come to grips with what Pentax was trying to do with its design and use the appropriate lenses, then the *ist is actually a pretty good little camera. This camera also has many great features and the *ist has the most advanced metering, flash and auto-focus systems of any Pentax film SLR. So, it’s not necessarily an “entry-level users” camera as indicated above in the form’s camera description, even though it looks like one. However, I do not recommend the *ist film camera if you want to use K or M Series lenses, larger lenses or are looking for a more rugged body. The MZ-S or Z-1/Z-1p are better choices. I rate my *ist an 8.5, rounded down to an 8. Here’s how I rank the *ist in my Pentax K-mount film body collection: 1) LX, 2) K2DMD, 3) KX, 4) Z-1p, 5)MZ-S, 6)SUPER A, 7) K2, 8) MX, 9) *ist, 10) SF1n, 11) ME F, 12) P50, 13) KM, 14) ME, 15) A3000, 16)K1000SE, 17) K1000 Price: I paid $125.00 for my *ist and it’s in excellent condition.

Review of: Pentax A3 / A3000 by gofour3 on Wed November 25, 2020 | Rating: 7

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The Pentax A3 camera was released in 1984, one year after the initial “A” Series bodies (Super A/Program) came out. The A3 was the budget body in the “A” Series line which was designed around the new “A” Series lenses. The A3 was renamed as an “A3000” for the North American market, but the finish/look was identical between cameras. Even though the A3/A3000 was the budget “A” Series body, it did have a couple Pentax firsts that the more advanced “A Series” body did not. This is the first Pentax SLR that has a build-in winder, features DX Coding and takes AA batteries. Build & Handling: - Like budget “A” Series lenses the A3/A3000 is not as well built as the previous Pentax “K” & “M“ Series cameras. More plastic and less metal, though the A3/A3000 is still pretty good compared to the budget MZ/ZX bodies! - The first thing you notice about the A3/A3000 is its size. It’s bigger than the other “A” Series bodies and for me is the best handling one. It has a built-in grip on the right side that helps in supporting my larger A* primes and bigger zoom lenses. The excellent handling is the best feature of this body for me. - Not many dials/buttons/switches on the A3/A3000 as it’s a budget camera with limited features. There’s just the manual ISO ring, mode selector switch and shutter button on the top. The self-timer lever and exposure compensation button are on the front. The “plunger” type cable release socket has been moved to the front of the camera on the grip. The viewfinder is also sparse, with just the flash/shutter speeds indicated on the left side. The aperture is not displayed in the viewfinder, which is somewhat disappointing and annoying if you are using the Programed AE mode. The A3/A3000 comes with the split image/microprism focusing screen that is excellent for focusing. Observations: - The A3/A3000 mode selector lets you choose between “B” (bulb), “1/60” (flash), “PROGRAM” for the Programed AE mode (lens on A) or Aperture Priority (lens set to any f-stop). There is also a “lock” and “battery check “position on this switch. The Programed AE mode is only usable with Pentax lenses with the “A” aperture setting. This mode seems to choose shutter speeds in the 1/125 to 1/250 range, but as the camera does not display the aperture being used, makes this mode pretty well useless for me. The A3/A3000 has no Manual Exposure mode and is totally dependant on batteries. - The A3/A3000 is the first Pentax SLR to have a built-in winder (1.5 fps). However the A3/A3000 does not have an automatic film rewind and you have to rewind the film manually the traditional way. When you reach the end of the roll, the winder will not advance the film and a red light will turn on in the frame advance counter. The winder is on the noisy side, but is a pretty good built-in feature. - DX Coding was invented by Kodak in 1983 for their Point & Shoot cameras and was first introduced by Pentax on the A3/A3000 body. If you use non-DX coded film you can set the ISO manually with the ISO dial. The only issue is if you want to shoot DX coded film at an ISO setting different from its box speed. In this case you will have to tape over the DX coding markings on the film canister and set the ISO manually. This is less than perfect, but still better than any “P” Series body which did not have a manual ISO dial. The DX Coded/manual ISO range is 25 to 1600 for both. - The A3/A3000 also has only one flash mode, “Programmed Auto Flash”. There is no TTL flash support on the A3/A3000. A recommended flash for the A3/A3000 is the Pentax AF-200SA. If you set a lens to the “A” position, the camera will pick the flash speed of 1/60 and the aperture appropriate to the speed of the film being used. Pretty basic stuff. - Other features on the A3/A3000 are shutter speeds from 2 second to 1/1000, centre-weighted metering with a range of EV 1 to EV 18 and exposure compensation of +1.5EV via a push button, which is only useful for back light subjects. There is also a 12 second delay self-timer, which has a flashing LED light/beeping sound. On the negative side the A3/A3000 has no DOF preview, MLU and exposure lock which are all missed. - The A3/A3000 is the first Pentax SLR to use two “AA” regular batteries, so this is another useful feature for some. (Rated at 50 rolls of 36 exposure film with a fresh set) The A3/A3000 has a dedicated soft Eveready case (marked A3-x) that came in various sizes for different lenses. I have the “A3-S”case which holds a small normal/wide prime lens. Summary: The A3/A3000 was not on my radar to buy and was gifted to me by a Pentax Forum member. (Thanks Murray!) It’s actually a pretty good backup camera that I can see myself using on a trip, when I take multiple bodies. However I would not recommend the A3/A3000 as your only film body, as it does not have enough features. Here is how I rank the A3/A3000 in my Pentax K-mount body collection: 1) LX, 2) K2DMD, 3) KX, 4) Z-1p, 5)MZ-S, 6)SUPER A, 7) K2, 8) MX, 9) SF1n, 10) ME F, 11) P50, 12) KM, 13) ME, 14)A3000, 15)K1000SE, 16) K1000 Price: My A3000 was free and it’s in EXC+ condition.

Review of: Pentax MZ-S by gofour3 on Mon June 1, 2020 | Rating: 10

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The Pentax MZ-S was released in February 2001 and it superseded the Z-1p/PZ-1p as Pentax’s the top of the line AF pro camera. The MZ-S remained in production until 2004, when all of Pentax’s 35mm film cameras were discontinued. Build & Handling: The MZ-S’s build is quite good and is the first Pentax body to be made of magnesium alloy. The other MZ/ZX bodies are not of the same quality, though all cameras in this series suffer from the dreaded plastic mirror motor gear failure. There are numerous threads in the forum relating to this topic and the general consensus is that the MZ-S bodies with a s/n number starting with 5xxxxxx have the updated brass gear. So my advice if you are considering getting a MZ-S, is to look for one with a s/n in that range. The MZ-S is a “middleweight “camera and weighs in at (520 grams). However it’s not the biggest kid on the block, so balancing my bigger lenses on this body is doable but not as good as on my Z-1p or K2DMD. The right-side grip does help and there is also the optional BG-10 battery grip to add more weight/size if you need it. If you like dials, dials within dials, buttons & switches, then you’ll love the MZ-S! Way too many for my liking and this adds to the overall neutral feeling I have for the MZ-S handling and cluttered look. Observations: The MZ-S is yet another AF camera with a headache inducing 137-page manual, so you’ll probably need to pack it along when using it for the first few weeks. Luckily the MZ-S is so customizable with the 19 available “Pentax Functions”, that once you set it up to your liking you are good to go for most shooting situations. - Focusing: There are two auto-focusing options (single & continuous) and manual focusing. AF now has six focusing points and is an improvement over the previous generation of cameras, which had only one. I don’t do auto-focusing, so the switch is permanently set to manual focus and I can happily ignore a large section of the manual. When manually focusing you can use either the “focus indicator” green light in the viewfinder or just the matte focusing screen. You can also have the camera beep when your subject is in focus, but I disabled this option (PF 1). Since the MZ-S has six AF points on the focusing screen, this adds to the cumbersome manual focusing experience. I ditched the regular viewfinder eyecup and use the Pentax “O-ME53 Viewfinder Magnifying Eyecup” instead. This and the “Refconverter A” help a lot with manual focusing - Metering Modes: Along with the superb Multi 6-segment metering, you also have spot and center-weighted metering. Note the multi-segment metering only works with “A” Series (excluding the A50/1.2) or newer lenses. For K/M Series lenses you can only use the other two metering options. I use the Multi 6-segment metering whenever possible, as it’s my preferred choice for when I shoot slide film. The MZ-S also has exposure memory lock. - Drive Modes/Winder: The MZ-S has a built-in 2.5 frame per-second winder with four drive modes to choose from. The “single-frame” is the one I use 99% of the time. Your other drive mode options are; Consecutive-frame, Multiple-exposure and Self-timer. The Self-timer has two options available, 2 second delay with MLU and 12 second delay. (These are selected via PF 14) There is also an Auto Bracketing mode, but it’s activated with another dial, separate from the others listed above. For rewinding you have numerous options; from end of roll automatic or manual rewind (PF 13), as well as a complete rewind or leaving the film leader out (PF 12). For swapping film mid-roll, there is also a rewind option called “MRC frame advance” in PF 12, that lets you to return to the same frame automatically at a later time. I have the camera configured to automatically rewind the film into the canister when the last shot on the roll is taken. - Exposure Modes: The MZ-S has five exposure modes available; usage depends if the attached lens is in the “A” setting on the aperture ring. (Programmed AE, Shutter-Priority AE, Aperture-Priority AE, Metered Manual and Bulb) Note the MZ-S cannot control the aperture on a lens with no aperture ring, so these lenses can only be used in Programmed AE or Shutter-Priority AE modes. I use Aperture-Priority almost 100% of the time. Note PF 2 controls the four options of Programmed AE that are available. - Shutter Speed Range: The MZ-S has a Manual/Auto shutter speed range from 1/6000 to 30 seconds. Not quite as good as the 1/8000 in the Z-1/Z-1p, but still very good for shooting my fast-prime lenses wide open. - DX Coding/Exposure Compensation: The MZ-S has DX coding or you can set the ISO manually (PF7). The ISO range of 6 to 6400/ DX coded range of 25 to 5000 is also superb. You also have exposure compensation of -3 to +3 EV in ½ EV or 1 EV increments, which can also be used with auto-bracketing. - Viewfinder Display/LCD Display Panel: The viewfinder on the MZ-S layout is pretty good and all the exposure/focusing info is on the bottom. There is also right-hand side bar graph, which is used in some exposure modes. Everything else, including the exposure info, is on the top LCD panel. The MZ-S diopter adjustment switch is accessed via an opening in the top of the OEM eyecup. - Flash: The MZ-S has a small built-in retractable TTL flash (RFT) that is occasionally useful for fill-in flash or an indoor portrait. The MZ-S will let you know if a fill-in flash is required if you are in one of the AE exposure modes. (The flash sync speed is 1/180 sec or slower.) The RFT flash is controlled by a separate flash-function button and also has a Red-eye reduction, automatic firing & a Wireless option (with the AF360FGZ). The RFT flash also drains the cameras batteries pretty quickly, so I would use one of the two dedicated external P-TTL flashes designed for the MZ-S instead. (The Pentax AF540FGZ & AF360FGZ are recommended for use with the MZ-S.) I bought the AF360FGZ and it works nicely with my MZ-S and you can use it alongside the RFT flash, thought it has to be “off “camera. Auto focus lenses (F/FA or newer) work the best with the MZ-S flash system. - MLU/DOF Preview: The MZ-S does not have an MLU button/switch like the older Pentax MF film bodies, but instead you use the “Self-timer with 2 second delay” drive mode (PF14). The mirror flips up 2 seconds before the shutter is released, so the result is the same. The MZ-S DOF preview is incorporated into the ON/OFF switch on the camera. Not the best place to put it in my books, but at least there is one. - Cable Switch: The MZ-S uses the “Cable Switch CS-105/CS130” or the “Release Timer Switch TS-110”. These switches are dedicated to the MZ-S/645NII cameras, so they are hard to find and expensive. - Imprinting Exposure Data/Quartz Date: The MZ-S has a neat option to print exposure data on the top of the film between the sprocket holes. This is great option for me when I’m testing new lenses, so I don’t always have to write down the shutter/aperture I used for each shot. Note the aperture will only be imprinted with F/FA or newer lenses and all imprinting is covered up if you shoot E6 slide film and have them mounted. The MZ-S also has a quartz date/time imprint, which I’ll never use. Thankfully the Panoramic Format was not included on the MZ-S. - Batteries: The battery compartment is on the bottom of the camera and you need two 3V CR-2 lithium batteries. There is also the BG-10 battery grip option that lets you use “AA” batteries. You can extend the battery life by using manual focus and an external flash instead of the built-in RFT flash. - Case: The MZ-S uses the soft case “CF-10” and it came in three sizes, S, M & L. Which size you need depends on the lens. I was finally able to track down a "M" case after a couple years of trying. Summary: The MZ-S is another great camera and has many interesting & useful features. Along with the Z-1p, they would be considered the two best Pentax auto-focus film cameras. They are hard to compare, as they are very different cameras with a different user experience. But if I had to choose my favorite between the two, I would pick the Z-1p. I like the size/handling of the Z-1p better, as well as its faster shutter speed of 1/8000. The fact that the Z-1p can fully control lenses with no aperture ring, may also be a bonus for some. Never the less I still rate my MZ-S a perfect 10. Here’s how I rank the MZ-S in my Pentax K-mount film body collection: 1) LX, 2) K2DMD, 3) KX, 4) Z-1p, 5)MZ-S, 6)SUPER A, 7) K2, 8) MX, 9) SF1n, 10) ME F, 11) P50, 12) KM, 13) ME, 14) K1000SE, 15) K1000 Price: I paid AU $597.00 for my MZ-S and it’s in mint condition. It came in the original box, but was missing the manual.

Review of: Pentax Z-1p / PZ-1p by gofour3 on Sat July 13, 2019 | Rating: 10

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The Pentax Z-1p/PZ-1p was released in September 1994 and it replaced the original Z-1/PZ-1 released in 1992. The Z-1p/PZ-1p has a few minor improvements/changes over its predecessor, as well as the Panorama mode. The Z-1p/PZ-1p remained in production until 2000, when the new third generation AF MZ/ZX Series cameras were released. The Z-1p/PZ-1p is another camera where Pentax had different names for different markets. It was called the Z-1p in Japan & International markets, but for the North American market it was named the PZ-1p. The cameras are identical, but have different manuals. Build & Handling: The Z-1p/PZ-1p’s build is Ok and is clearly more plastic when compared to a K Series body, but still better built than the next generation MZ/ZX bodies. (The MZ-S is the exception) There are some reported issues with cracked bottom plates, broken battery compartment doors and disintegrating rubber eyecups. When I purchased my Z-1p it was in LN condition, so no issues with the bottom plate or battery door. However, when I removed the rubber eyecup to adjust the diopter, it crumbled into three pieces. It had probably been attached to the camera for 25 years and I was the first one to remove it. The Fd eyecup is hard rubber with no support bracket, so it must have dried out over the years. No big deal, I just replaced it with a regular “M” Series round soft rubber eyecup. This is another big beefy camera (650 grams), so no issues balancing my bigger lenses on this body. The right-side grip, also adds to the excellent overall handling of the Z-1p/PZ-1p. There was also an optional FDP grip/strap available for the Z-1p/PZ-1p, which added even more size to the camera if you need it. There are two “direct” dials on the front/back of the grip (Tv & Av), as well as the “mode" dial/set button on the left side top. These are the three main “control” dials used to set the cameras various features. This layout works well, but does require using both hands to operate. The main LCD panel is placed just above the viewfinder on the camera’s top, so it’s also in a good location. The shutter release button is a bit too front forward for my liking and it took a while to get used to. I guess the designers ran out of space, as I would have preferred it to be located where the flash hot-shoe is placed. There are various other switches/buttons located around the body for less used features, so overall the layout of the Z-1p/PZ-1p is not bad, considering all the settings it has! Observations: The Z-1p/PZ-1p has a headache inducing 130-page manual, so for someone used to shooting with a KX/LX this was a bit intimidating. However the Z-1p/PZ-1p is so customizable that once you setup the Pentax Functions, metering mode, drive mode and exposure mode, you are good to go for most shooting situations. The main on/off switch also has a “USER” setting for simple shooting with some features not available. I don’t use this option and use the regular “advanced” setting, which is available when the main switch is set to “ON”. There was a folding wallet sized "Pentax Function" cheat sheet included with my Z-1p, as well as the bigger manual. - Focusing: There are two auto-focusing options (single & servo) and manual focusing. I don’t do auto-focusing, so the switch is permanently set to manual focus. When manually focusing you can use either the “focus indicator” green light in the viewfinder or just the matte focusing screen. You can also have the camera beep when your subject is in focus, but I disabled this option. My Z-1p came with the FM-60 (Matte field with panorama and spot metering frame standard screen), this screens two horizontal lines are good for leveling the horizon, so overall manually focusing is pretty easy. Though I do miss the split-image or micro-prism focusing aids, standard on my manual focusing Pentax film bodies. There are seven focusing screens available for the Z-1p/PZ-1p. - Metering Modes: Multi-segment metering was finally introduced on Z/PZ series cameras and it’s a great bonus having it. Along with the 8-segment metering, you also have spot and center-weighted metering. Note the multi-segment metering only works with “A” Series or newer lenses. For K/M Series lenses you can use the other two metering options and setup the camera to default to your preference when one of these lenses is mounted. I use the 8-segment metering whenever possible, as it’s my preferred choice for when I shoot slide film. The Z-1p/PZ-1p also has exposure memory lock. - Drive Modes/Winder: The Z-1p/PZ-1p has a built-in winder with six drive modes to choose from, so you have numerous shooting options. The “single-frame” is the one I use 99% of the time. Your other drive mode options are; Multi-frame consecutive, Multiple-exposure, Triple-frame consecutive self-timer, Self-timer with 2 second delay and Self-timer with 12 second delay. There is also an Auto Bracketing mode, but it has its own setting in the mode dial and is separate from the others listed above. I have the camera configured to automatically rewind the film into the canister when the last shot on the roll is taken. This is a nice option and the winder is a bit quieter than my SF1n. - Exposure Modes: The Z-1p/PZ-1p has six exposure modes available if the attached lens has an “A” setting on the aperture ring or the lens has no aperture ring. (Hyper Programmed AE, Hyper Manual, Shutter-Priority AE, Aperture-Priority AE, Bulb and 1/250 second) If the lens is set to a specific aperture on the aperture ring, then you have four exposure modes available. (Aperture-Priority AE, Hyper Manual, Bulb and 1/250 second) Note if you are using a lens with no aperture ring, you can fully control the aperture with the Av direct dial, so the lens is fully functional on the Z-1p/PZ-1p. (Excluding AF on the newer DA lenses) I mostly use Aperture-Priority with the aperture ring on the lens set to a specific f-number. This is what I’m most comfortable with and the option that involves the least interaction with the camera body. - Shutter Speed Range: The Z-1p/PZ-1p has a Manual/Auto shutter speed range from 1/8000 to 30 seconds. This is the best feature of the Z-1p/PZ-1p for me, and it’s a must when I’m shooting my fast-prime lenses wide open. Not having to use a ND filter is a big plus! - DX Coding/Exposure Compensation: The Z-1p/PZ-1p has DX coding or you can set the ISO manually. The ISO range of 6 to 6400/ DX coded range of 25 to 5000 is also superb. You also have exposure compensation of -4 to +4 EV, which can also be used with flash or auto-bracketing. Both the ISO/ Exposure Compensation settings are customizable via the “Pentax Functions”. - Viewfinder Display/LCD Display Panel: The viewfinder on the Z-1p/PZ-1p layout is pretty good and all the exposure info is on the right-hand side. Everything else, including the exposure info, is on the top LCD panel. The Z-1p/PZ-1p comes with the “Eyecup Fd” and the diopter adjustment switch is covered by the Eyecup. The OEM eyecup is not that great and I prefer the older round soft rubber eyecup from the “M” Series cameras. (My Fd eyecup broke anyways, see above) - Flash: The Z-1p/PZ-1p has a small built-in TTL flash (RFT) that is occasionally useful for fill-in flash. The Z-1p/PZ-1p will let you know if a fill-in flash is required if you are in one of the AE exposure modes. (The flash sync speed is 1/250 sec or slower.) The RFT flash can also be used for slow-speed sync shooting and as an AF Spotbeam. Advanced functions (Red eye reduction & Trailing curtain flash sync) are accessed via the flash setting on the mode dial. The RFT flash also drains the cameras batteries pretty quickly, so I would use one of the two dedicated external TTL flashes designed for the Z-1p/PZ-1p instead. (The Pentax AF500FTZ & AF330FTZ are recommended for use with the Z-1p/PZ-1p.) I bought the AF330FTZ and it works nicely with my Z-1p and you can use it alongside the RFT flash for contrast flash. - MLU/DOF Preview: The Z-1p/PZ-1p does not have an MLU button/switch like the older Pentax MF film bodies, but instead you use the “Self-timer with 2 second delay” drive mode. The mirror flips up 2 seconds before the shutter is released, so the result is the same. The Z-1p/PZ-1p does have a dedicated DOF preview button on the front. Note if the attached lens has an “A” setting (A/F/FA Series) on the aperture ring, the DOF preview will only work if the lens aperture is set to an actual aperture value. It will not work in the “A” setting. - Cable Switch/Release: The Z-1p/PZ-1p uses the “Cable Switch F” and not the older plunger style cable releases. - Panoramic Format/Quartz Date: The Panoramic Format is built-in on every Z-1p/PZ-1p and my Z-1p also came with the optional Data Back Fd-P1. Both are “fads” from the 1990’s and something I will never use. Thankfully both options have an “off” switch! -Batteries: The battery compartment is on the bottom of the camera and you need one 6V 2CR5 lithium battery. There was no “AA” grip made for the Z-1p/PZ-1p. You can extend the battery life by using manual focus and an external flash instead of the built-in RFT. -Case: The Z-1p/PZ-1p uses the soft case marked “Fd” and it came in three sizes, S, M & L. The camera manual lists the lenses that will fit in each sized case. Summary: In a perfect world Pentax would have updated the LX in the mid ‘90s and added some of the features of the Z-1p/PZ-1p, but left the camera manual focus. That never happened, so to get these features I had to go out of my comfort zone and try an AF film body. I first bought the SF1n, which is ok, but it’s missing some features I like. Also the SF1n, *ist and none of the MZ/ZX Series bodies have the 1/8000 shutter speed. (This was a must have option for me.) I ended up buying the Z-1p as a last resort and surprisingly I actually like this body and all of its features, especially the 1/8000 shutter speed & multi-segment metering. While the Z-1p will never make me feel all warm and fuzzy when I’m using it, overall it’s the best AF Pentax film camera in my books. I rate my Z-1p a perfect 10. Here’s how I rank the Z-1P/PZ-1P in my Pentax K-mount film body collection: 1) LX, 2) K2DMD, 3) KX, 4) Z-1p, 5)SUPER A, 6) K2, 7) MX, 8) SF1n, 9) ME F, 10) P50, 11) KM, 12) ME, 13) K1000SE, 14) K1000 Price: I paid €220 Euros for my Z-1p and it’s in LN condition. It came in the original box, with the manuals, strap & paperwork. Update July 24, 2019: I just bought a PENTAX Magnifier Eyecup O-ME53 and it works great on my Z-1p, You can see the viewfinder info on the right-hand side and the magnification helps in manual focusing. This O-ME53 eyecup also looks better mounted on the Z-1p, than the older round soft rubber eyecup from the “M” Series cameras.

Review of: Pentax SFXn / SF1n by gofour3 on Wed June 5, 2019 | Rating: 8

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The Pentax SFXn/SF1n was released in November 1988 and was the last of the SF Series first generation auto-focus film cameras. It replaced the original SFX/SF1 released in the previous year and the SFXn/SF1n has a few improvements* over its predecessor. The SFXn/SF1n remained in production until 1991, when the new second generation AF Z/PZ Series cameras were released. The SFXn/SF1n is another camera where Pentax had different names for different markets. It was called the SFXn in Japan & International markets, but for the North American market it was named the SF1n. The cameras are identical, but have different manuals. * The SFXn/SF1n upgrades include; faster shutter speed of 1/4000, faster flash sync speed of 1/125 and two more drive modes “automatic bracketing & multi-frame self-timer”. Build & Handling: The SFXn/SF1n’s build is Ok and is clearly more plastic when compared to a K Series body. I have not heard of any issues with cracked bottom plates like in the Z/PZ Series or plastic gears jamming like in the MZ/ZX Series. You have to go all the way back to the K Series K2/K2MD to find a Pentax film camera this heavy! This is a big plus for me and my bigger lenses are nicely balanced on this body. Try shooting with a K200/2.5 handheld on a MX or ME and you’ll see why smaller bodies are lousy with bigger lenses. The right-side battery grip, also adds to the excellent overall handling of the SFXn/SF1n. There are two "control" switches on the left side top to change the mode/drive/EF/ISO, via the "select" switch located on the right side top. This works OK and does require using both hands. Observations: - Focusing: There are two auto-focusing options (single & servo) and manual focusing. I tried auto-focusing a few times and it’s noisy and awkward. There is only the center focusing point, so if you want to focus on another part in the shot then you will need to use focus lock. AF is not my “cup of tea” and I find it quicker & easier to manual-focus. So I’ll only use MF with my SF1n and conserve battery power! Note to move the camera into the “manual” focus setting, you have to press a button while sliding the focus-mode switch. When manually focusing you can use either the “focus indication” system or just the plain matte focusing screen. The FI system is also awkward to use, so I try to ignore it and just focus off the matte screen. The SFXn/SF1n also has interchangeable focusing screens and there was also a grid screen available. - Drive Modes/Winder: The SFXn/SF1n has a built in winder with five drive modes to choose from, so you have numerous shooting options. The “single-frame advance” is the one I use 99% of the time. The “automatic bracketing” is useful occasionally, if you want to over/under expose a shot with a specific value. The other two “self-timer” modes and the “consecutive advance” mode are nice to have, but I probably will never use them. The winder is very noisy and when the roll is finished it’s not automatically rewound. This gives you time to get some ear protection, before you press the switch on the bottom of the camera to rewind the film. You get over 20 seconds of a loud noise which sounds like a power drill! Very embarrassing if done in a crowded place. :o - Exposure Modes: The SFXn/SF1n has three (normal, action & depth) program modes, shutter priority, aperture priority, metered manual, 1/125 for flash & bulb. I use aperture priority pretty well all the time for regular shooting and the “normal” program mode if using a flash. Note if you want to use a lens with no aperture ring then you can only use the three program or shutter priority modes. The SFXn/SF1n can’t adjust the lenses aperture in the aperture priority mode. The SFXn/SF1n also has exposure memory lock. - DX Coding/Exposure Compensation: The SFXn/SF1n has the DX coding feature, but unlike the previous Pentax “P” Series cameras also has DX coding override. You also have a manual ISO setting for non DX coded film & exposure compensation of -4 to +4 EV, so you are good to go for any type of film or push/pull processing. - Viewfinder Display/CENTIC Display Panel: The viewfinder on the SFXn/SF1n is not particularly big or bright and is somewhat cluttered by the FI system on the bottom center of the display. The exposure mode and shutter speed are shown on the right side, but not the aperture value. The CENTIC display on the top of the camera has the aperture value and everything else. It would have been nice to also have the aperture value shown in the viewfinder. The SFXn/SF1n comes with the “Eyecup F” and it helps in bright shooting conditions, though the eye-cup does make it hard to see the right side of the viewfinder where the shutter speeds are indicated. The diopter adjustment switch is covered by the Eyecup F. Flash: The SFXn/SF1n has a small built-in TTL flash (RFT) that is occasionally useful for fill-in flash. It also drains the 2CR5 battery pretty quickly, so I would use one of the two dedicated external TTL flashes designed for the SFXn/SF1n instead. (The Pentax AF400FTZ & AF240FT are recommended for use with the SFXn/SF1n.) I bought the AF400FTZ and it works nicely with my SF1n, though it’s rather big and clunky. -Batteries: The battery compartment is on the side of the grip and you need one 6V 2CR5 lithium battery or you can get the optional “AA” grip and use four of those batteries. You can extend the battery life by turning off the “PCV” tone, using manual-focus and not using the RFT flash. -Case: The SFXn/SF1n uses the soft case marked “X/1” and it came in three sizes, S, M & L. The camera manual lists the lenses that will fit in each sized case. Summary: If you miss “shoulder pads”, “Milli Vanilli” and “Miami Vice”, then this is the camera for you. The Pentax SFXn/SF1n screams the late 1980’s and is big, loud & brash just like that era. :cool: The SFXn/SF1n is the best choice in the SF Series cameras and the 1/4000 shutter speed is one of its best features for me. (The first Pentax camera to have it) I can now use my fast lenses wide open, without needing a ND filter most of the time. Unfortunately the SFXn/SF1n is missing DOF preview and MLU, so that’s a big negative for me. Overall the SFXn/SF1n is not bad if you’re feeling nostalgic, but it's not a camera that I would want to use every day. I rate the my SF1n an 8.5, rounded down to an 8. Here’s how I rank the SFXn/SF1n in my Pentax K-mount film body collection: 1) LX, 2) K2DMD, 3) KX, 4) SUPER A, 5) K2, 6) MX, 7) SF1n, 8) ME F, 9) P50, 10) KM, 11) ME, 12) K1000SE, 13) K1000 Price: I paid $15.00 USD for my SF1n and it’s in excellent + condition. Everything works and it came with the Eyecup F, hot-shoe & remote release socket caps.

Review of: Pentax ME F by gofour3 on Mon July 30, 2018 | Rating: 8

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The Pentax ME F was released in October 1981 and is Pentax’s first attempt at an Auto Focus system. The ME F is based on the ME Super body that was released the year before. The AF feature only worked with the one M35-70/2.8 zoom, so it was not really that popular of a camera and was in production for only three years. Pentax’s first true AF system was the “F” Series cameras/lenses, which were released in February 1987. The ME F has all the same features of its older brother the ME Super, so you get a maximum shutter speed of 1/2000, +/-2 exposure compensation, split-image/micro focusing screen, 1/125 flash sync, a “Mode” shutter dial instead of a shutter speed dial and so on. You also don’t get TTL flash support, DOF preview and MLU. Observations: - Size wise the ME F is the largest of the “M” Series film bodies, so for me it’s the best handling. Adding the bottom half of the Eveready case and you have a decent handling camera. - The ME F’s vertical meter display located on the left side of the viewfinder, is an improvement over the ME’s and I also like it better than the half dial in the MX. Like the ME, ME Super and MX, the ME F uses the same GPD center-weighted meter & sensitivity pattern. - You also get a manual metering mode, which was not available on the original ME. The shutter speed is adjusted with two push buttons next to the shutter mode dial. This is painful to use, so I stick to the AUTO mode. - The ME F also has the new “M” series “magic white needles” film loading system. So you can insert the film leader into any slot on the spool, instead of the dedicated slot on the “K” Series cameras. - Other features on the ME F are a selectable ASA range from 12 to 1600, film memo holder, exposure compensation of 1/4x, 1/2x, 1x, 2x and 4x and self-timer. There is no DOF preview on the ME F or MLU, both are sorely missed. The ME F came with a split-image microprism focusing screen, which was not user changeable like the MX. - The ME F has a flash sync of 1/125 for non “dedicated” flashes. If you use one of the dedicated Pentax flashes (AF-200S, AF-160, AF-280T and AF080C) you don’t have to move the shutter mode dial to 1/125, as the ME F will automatically do it when the flash is mounted and turned on. I tested the ME F with my AF-280T and you will need to use the flash in one of the two Auto flash modes. (Green/red) The Automatic Exposure Check on the AF-280T also works with the ME F. Better than nothing, but still a long way from TTL flash support. - For continuous shooting the ME F uses the ME and the newer ME II Winder. - The ME F requires four 1.5-volt S76 batteries and not two like the ME Super. The ME F has a different battery chamber and the cover is released with a special button on the bottom of the camera. - The ME F has a dedicated Eveready case, with “ME F” marked on the bottom of the camera half case. You could also special order a larger front case that would hold the M35-70/2.8 zoom lens. The regular front case is small and will only hold a smaller “M” Series lens, like the M50/1.7. Auto Focus/TTL Electronic Focus: The main feature of the ME F was the ability to auto focus the M35-70/2.8 zoom by pushing one of the two focusing buttons on the lens. You did this until the lens stops turning and the green light appears in the ME F’s viewfinder. (The ME F has a special focusing display located in the center bottom of the viewfinder) I don’t have this zoom, so I can comment on how the AF system works. The other feature of the ME F was the "through-the-lens" electronic focusing guide for manual focusing lenses. To use this feature you need to turn on the focusing system and select one of the two apertures listed, ~2.8 or 3.5~. (Basically 2.8 is for lenses with a maximum aperture of f/2.8 or larger and 3.5 is for lenses with a maximum aperture of f/3.5 to f5.6) You then turn the lenses focusing ring in the direction of the red arrows in the viewfinder, until the green LED light is on. That indicates the subject in the viewfinders split image circle is in focus. If you get the two red arrows, then the focusing system does not have enough light or the contrast is too flat. Unfortunately this feature is more of a novelty than being useful, so for me it’s just a waste of battery power to use it. Summary: The Pentax ME F, like the ME Super, is an improvement over the other “M” Series “shutter mode” film bodies, but nowhere near as good as the next generation “A" Series Super A/Program. The ME F makes a good decent sized “P&S” SLR, for those days when you don’t want to lug around a camera bag or kit and mess with manual metering. The ME F does not have enough features to be considered as an all-purpose film body, but it’s still fun to use occasionally. I just ignore the auto/electronic focus part and treat the ME F as a larger ME Super. :D Overall I rate the ME F an 8.5, rounded down to an 8. Here’s how I rank the ME F in my Pentax K-mount manual focus body collection: 1) LX, 2) K2DMD, 3) KX, 4) SUPER A, 5) K2, 6) MX, 7) ME F, 8) P50, 9) KM, 10) ME, 11) K1000SE, 12) K1000 Price: I paid $100.00CDN for my silver ME F and it’s in excellent condition.

Review of: Pentax ME by gofour3 on Fri July 15, 2016 | Rating: 8

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The Pentax ME camera was released in late 1976 along with the MX, they were the first bodies introduced with the new Pentax “M” (miniaturized) series of lenses. The MX was aimed more towards the advanced photographer, while the ME was marketed towards the casual shooter who wanted the simplicity of a P&S camera, but with a camera that had interchangeable lenses. The ME was the first Pentax SLR that did not feature the traditional shutter speed dial and instead featured a “Program” dial. This was carried over to the ME Super and later to the Super A/Super Program bodies. The ME was also the first Pentax to have an Aperture Priority (AUTO) only meter, with no manual mode. There was one mechanical shutter speed mode “1/100X” used for electronic flashes. This was the only shutter speed that could be used if the cameras batteries failed. There is also a lock “L” position on this dial and a “B” mode for long exposures. Observations: - The first thing you notice about the ME is its small size, it’s even smaller than the MX. Placed next to a “K” Series body released the previous year, you immediately notice the size difference. Free holding the ME is very hard for me due to its small size, so I beefed it up with a strap and the bottom half of the ME soft EverReady case. This makes it easier for me to hold and less of a chance to drop this tiny camera. - The ME has a simple vertical meter display on the left side of the viewfinder, that indicates the selected shutter speed with a red dot. The meter range is between 1/1000 to 8 sec. There is also an OVER & UNDER indicator to show if the meter range was exceeded. This display is pretty good and I like it better than the half dial in the MX. Both bodies use the same GPD centre-weighted meter & sensitivity pattern. - The ME also has the new “M” series “magic white needles” film loading system. So you can insert the film leader into any slot on the spool, instead of the dedicated slot on the “K” Series cameras. - Other features on the ME are an ASA range from 12 to 1600, film memo holder, exposure compensation of 1/4x, 1/2x, 1x, 2x and 4x and Self-timer. There is no DOF preview on the ME or MLU, both are sorely missed. The ME came with a split-image focusing screen, which was not user changeable like the MX. - For continuous shooting the ME uses the ME and the newer ME II Winder. Summary: The Pentax ME makes a good small “P&S” SLR, for those days when you don’t want to lug around a camera bag or kit and mess with manual metering. Combined with the pancake M40/2.8 lens you have a great little package that’s better than any fixed lens P&S film camera from that period and also pretty close in size. However I would not recommend the ME as your “main” camera or a film camera for “students”, since it’s too small, does not have enough features and has no manual metering. Overall a nice little camera for its intended purpose. Here’s how I rank the ME in my Pentax K-mount manual focus body collection: 1) LX, 2) K2DMD, 3) KX, 4) SUPER A, 5) K2, 6) MX, 7) P50, 8) KM, 9) ME, 10) K1000SE, 11) K1000 Price: I paid $25.00CDN for my ME and it’s in Mint condition.

Review of: Pentax LX by gofour3 on Mon November 9, 2015 | Rating: 10

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The Pentax LX camera was released in June 1980 and remained in production until May 2001. There were a few upgrades/improvements during the 20+ year production run, as well as “Special Edition” versions, but the LX basically remained the same feature wise. The LX was the first Pentax 35mm professional “System Camera”. This “System” featured user changeable viewfinders & screens and you could get various grips, winders, motor drives, data backs & cases for the LX. The LX system did not feature any new lenses, but instead took advantage of the existing “M” and “K” series manual focus ones. Observations: - The first thing I noticed about the LX is how well everything fits together on the camera and how well it’s sealed. All moving parts operate smoothly as well, quite an impressive build indeed. Even the LX Soft EverReady camera case is better made than previous versions for the “M” Series bodies. Of course there is a downside to how well made the LX is, as a CLA costs about four times as much as one for a K1000! Kind of like a high maintenance luxury car. - The LX is the first Pentax camera to feature TTL flash support and Pentax released a couple new TTL flashes that were designed for the LX. The AF-280T and the AF-400T also had a slew of power accessories that you could get for special shooting. I’m using the AF-280T and all you have to do with the flash is set it on “TTL AUTO”, mount it on the LX hot-shoe and turn the flash on. The LX in automatic mode will automatically set the shutter speed to the flash sync speed of 1/75 and the light beside the “X” in the viewfinder window will glow red. You can set the lens to any aperture in the flash range corresponding to the speed of film you are using. The LX will meter off the film plane and adjust the flash output accordingly; flash shooting could not be easier! When the exposure is complete the red light will blink to indicate that a proper expose was made and it will light up again when the flash has been recharged and is ready for use. - The LX uses the same “three-way” lever for the DOF preview, Self Timer and MLU. Mirror lock-up was reintroduced on the LX, a feature that was missing on all “M” Series camera bodies. You need to press the button on the lever and then move the lever toward the lens to get the mirror to lockup. While this “three-way” lever saves space on the camera body, it makes the MLU function a bit hard to use. - The LX features an Integrated Direct Metering (off-the-film) SPD center-weighted metering system with an rated exposure range of -6.5 to 20 EV or 125 seconds to 1/2000th of a second in automatic mode and TTL flash mode. In reality the LX will continue to meter a scene way past the rated 125 second mark, changing the exposure as needed. It can be a bit nerve racking waiting for the LX to finish metering a shot, as you immediately think something is wrong with the camera. So patience is a virtue when doing long exposures in Auto mode! This Auto mode metering was second to none in the camera world at that time and even today is in a class of its own. So to take advantage of the IDM system you need to use the LX in Auto or TTL mode. - In manual mode the LX meter readings have a range of 4 seconds to 1/2000. With no working batteries in the camera you could still use X (1/75) to 1/2000 shutter speeds in manual mode. LX also has a nice viewfinder “exposure information” display, which shows the shutter speeds with various coloured lights. - A special note should be taken when using polarizing filters on the LX. A special half mirror was added to the LX to make the viewfinder brighter and easier to focus. This mirror is multi coated and acts like a polarizing filter, so if you use a linear polarizer and shoot in the manual mode you could get a messed up meter reading. However in auto (aperture priority) mode you can use either a CPL or LPL, as the half mirror flips up when the shutter button is pressed and the exposure metering is done off the film plane. Since I only use LPL’s this is a big relief and another reason to use the LX in Auto mode only. - The LX also has Exposure compensation of +/-2 EV, but is missing Exposure Lock last featured in its professional predecessor the K2DMD.That’s about the only negative that I have with the LX. - The LX uses the “magic white needles” film loading system, introduced in the “M” Series cameras. There is also a film memo holder on the camera back. - The LX has numerous finders and focusing screens that you can replace. Changing the finder is easy, you just have to move the finder release lever toward the finder and it slides right off. You just slide the new finder on and it clicks into place, could not be easier! Changing the focusing screens is the exact opposite and if you're not careful with the little metal tweezers you need to use, you can easily scratch the screen or mirror. This is a poor design and cumbersome to do with major consequences if you do it wrong. The LX screen replacement should have been designed like the Pentax 67II. On that camera you remove the finder and the focusing screen is removed from the top of the camera with no tools. You just push a plastic tab and lift the focusing screen up to remove it and the new one just clicks into place by pressing it down. This takes seconds to do and you can easily do it in the field while shooting. The same can't be said with the LX and since this was a pro camera the focusing screen replacement should have been a lot easier. - The LX is bigger than the “M” Series bodies, but a bit smaller than the “K” Series. So I have no complaints with the handling of the LX. Summary: The LX is as good as it’s going to get for a Pentax 35mm camera, whether it’s film or digital and I’m giving it a perfect 10. However my enthusiasm for the LX would have been way higher 4 years ago, when I did all my “specialty” shooting in the 35mm format and would have appreciated all its accessories & features. Since then I do most of my macro, studio, telephoto & long exposure work with my Pentax 6x7 system and the 35mm LX can’t compete with that larger format. I do however shoot 35mm film when I’m traveling somewhere by airplane and that’s pretty well all outside daylight work, with the occasional night/flash shot. For that type of shooting the LX is probably overkill. (So if you are looking to buy your first Pentax SLR and only plan to use it for outdoor daylight work, then any Pentax camera from that period is equally good and costs way less to buy and CLA.) I do plan to use my LX as my traveling cameras for harsher conditions, where its superb sealing will be a big plus. I just wish I had bought an LX years ago and got a chance to fully appreciate all its features on a regular basis. Here is how I rank the LX in my Pentax K-mount manual focus body collection: 1) LX, 2) K2DMD, 3) KX, 4) SUPER A, 5) K2, 6) MX, 7) P50, 8) KM, 9) K1000SE, 10) K1000 Update June, 2020: Recently added the LX 2000 to my collection and it's bundled with the A50/1.2. "Special". The kit was released in 2000 in the Japanese market only and 1000 copies were produced. (All LX 2000's s/n start with 2000xxx) The LX 2000 also comes with a special brown leather strap that has "Pentax LX 2000" embossed on it. As well as a right hand grip with a strap lug at the top and a silver FA-1W eye-level finder. Beautiful kit!

https://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac342/gofour3/E100%20May%2010%20to%2016%202020-E032_zpsgfgxx7eu.jpg

Price: I paid 649EUR for my LX kit that included a FA-1 viewfinder, LX Soft EverReady case, strap and a M50/1.7. I estimate a price of 600EUR for the MINT LX body. I paid $1995USD for my LX 2000 kit that included a FA-1W viewfinder, strap and the A50/1.2 "Special". The LX 2000 kit is in MINT condition.

Review of: Pentax P5 / P50 by gofour3 on Wed September 9, 2015 | Rating: 8

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The Pentax P50 camera was released in 1986, one year after the initial “P” Series body (P30/P3) came out. The P50 was the most advanced body in the “P” Series line which was designed around the “A” Series lenses. The P50 was renamed as a “P5” for the North American market, but the finish/look was identical between cameras. Even though the P50 was the most advanced of the “P” Series bodies, it had more in common with the middle “A Series” body the Program A, than the top of the line Super A. Both the Program A and P50 have a top shutter speed of 1/1000, no TTL flash support and no shutter priority exposure mode. (The Super A had a 1/2000 shutter speed, TTL flash support and a Shutter Priority mode) The main differences between the P50 and Super A & Program A were the addition of DX Coding, Exposure Memory Lock, a new way of loading film and a second Program Mode for action shooing. Observations: - The first thing you notice about the P50 is its angular shaped body as well as all dials have been removed and replaced with push buttons. The body top has a large LCD screen that shows the Exposure Mode, Shutter Speed & any Exposure Compensation, as well as a sliding on/off switch. There is also a traditional LED shutter bar on the left side of the viewfinder. The aperture is not displayed in any window, which is somewhat disappointing and annoying if you are using one of the two Program modes. - The P50 has two Program Exposure modes only usable with Pentax lenses with the “A” aperture setting. The Program “Action” emphasizes faster shutter speeds and the Program “Depth” emphasizes DOF for landscape shots. These two Program modes work OK, but I’m not really into that type of shooting, so I mostly use Aperture Priority. The P50 also has a fully Manual Exposure mode and is totally dependent on batteries. - Which modes you can use on the P50 depends on the mounted lens, here is a list: K or M Series: Aperture Priority and Manual modes A, F, FA or D FA Series (with aperture ring): Program Action/Depth, Aperture Priority and Manual modes. FAJ or D FA Series (with no aperture ring): Program Action/Depth modes. - Exposure Lock is a nice new addition and the “P” Series bodies are the first to have this feature since the “K” Series K2 DMD, released in 1976. - The P50 no longer uses the “magic white needles” film loading system. You now just have to pull the film leader up to a red line under the new rubberized film spool and also make sure the film is on the sprocket teeth. Closing the film door will secure the film to the rubber roll and you advance the film as usual until a “0” is indicated in the film counter window. The film type is displayed in a little cutout window on the back of the body, so you will never forget what film is loaded. This is a nice feature and one no longer needs to tear off the film box top any longer. - DX Coding was invented by Kodak in 1983 for their Point & Shoot cameras and was first introduced by Pentax on the “A” Series A3000 body. In my option DX Coding is completely unnecessary on any SLR, as if you can’t remember to adjust the ISO then you should be using a P&S camera and not a SLR. However if DX Coding is used on a SLR then at least have a manual override, so you can push/pull any film or use non DX Coded film. Pentax did have a manual ISO override on the A3000, but for some reason decided to drop it on the “P” Series, so you are completely at the mercy of the DX coding system. If you use non DX Coded film then the P50 reverts to a default 100 ISO. This may not have been a big issue back in the mid 1980’s, as most people used DX Coded Kodak or Fuji film, but today there are many smaller film manufactures that don’t use DX Coding. Adox & CineStill Film are two manufactures that don’t, so if the film is not 100 ISO then you can’t shoot it on the P50. Pentax did reintroduce the Manual ISO override on most of the next generation SF Auto Focus film bodies. Having no ISO Manual override is a huge negative with the P50 and the DX Coded ISO range is only 25 to 1600. - The P50 also has only one flash mode, “Programmed Auto Flash”. There is no TTL flash support on the P50. A recommended flash for the P50 is the Pentax AF-200SA. - The P50 is slightly bigger than the Super A & Program A, so I find it easier to hold. The P50 also has a small removable grip on the right side of the body. The finish on the P50 is different as well, so you would assume more plastic has been added, but the P50 weighs 35 grams more than the Super A & Program A. Never the less the P50 is a nice handling film body. - Other features on the P50 are shutter speeds from 1 second to 1/1000, exposure compensation of +/-3EV, a DOF preview switch and self timer. The smaller shutter speed range is worse than any “A” Series body. There is no MLU however. - The cable release socket has now been moved to the front of the camera, near the lens mount. - For continuous shooting the P50 uses the Motor Drive A and the ME II Winder. Summary: The P50 is a nice looking well handling “Program” film body with a lot of useful features, but is no match for the much better Super A. The P50 also has a few unnecessary & negative features, so this knocks this body down on my rating list. Here is how I rank the P50 in my Pentax K-mount manual focus body collection: 1) LX, 2) K2DMD, 3) KX, 4) SUPER A, 5) K2, 6) MX, 7) P50, 8) KM, 9) K1000SE, 10) K1000 Price: I paid £28.98 for my P50 and it’s in EXC+ condition.

Review of: Pentax Super A / Super Program by gofour3 on Fri August 7, 2015 | Rating: 9

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The Pentax Super A camera was released in 1983 as the flagship body for the new “A” Series lenses. It takes full advantage of the “A” setting on these new lenses and the Super A is the first Pentax body to feature a “Program” & “Shutter Priority” mode. The Super A was renamed as a “Super Program” for the North American market and the finish was changed to the less expensive chrome. The two cameras are identical otherwise and there was no chrome Super A nor a black Super Program. The Super A won the European camera of the year award in 1983 and Pentax released a commemorative version to celebrate this award. It came in a presentation box with an A50/1.7 lens and AF200T flash. This Super A had a gold “European Camera of the Year 1983” emblem next to the X-Synch socket and a special camera strap. The A50/1.7 also has a commemorative lens cap. This version of the Super A seems to have an s/n starting with 127xxxx - 134xxxx in the Pentax forums serial number database. Here is my commemorative Super A, without the flash or presentation box.

http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac342/gofour3/Super%20A_zpsk6dhx5fs.jpg

Observations: - If you own a ME Super then you’ll feel right at home with the Super A. As the Super A has a similar top dial layout as the older M Series camera. There is no traditional shutter speed dial like with the ME Super and the dial serves more as a mode dial. Moving the dial to “AUTO” lets you use “Program” or “Aperture Priority” modes. Move the shutter dial to “M” lets you use “Shutter Priority” or “Manual” modes. There is also a “B” setting for long exposures and a “125X” for non-dedicated flashes. The actual shutter speed is adjusted with two buttons and there is a top LCD widow indicating the selected shutter speed. Looking through the viewfinder you will see two boxes on the bottom, the left indicates the shutter speed and the right the aperture. Refer to the camera manual for various symbols/characters appearing in these windows for certain program modes. The Super A needs working batteries to function. - Which modes you can use on the Super A depends on the mounted lens, here is a list: K or M Series: Aperture Priority and Manual modes A, F, FA or D FA Series (with aperture ring): Program, Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority and Manual modes. FAJ or D FA Series (with no aperture ring): Program and Shutter Priority modes. As most of my lenses are K Series I mostly use the aperture priority and manual modes. The Program mode leans towards DOF, so the shutter speed selected is usually around 1/60. If you want faster shutter speeds then use shutter priority or manual modes. - The Super A also has two flash modes, TTL Auto and Programmed Auto. These modes are determined by the type of flash used and the settings on the flash unit. I bought a Pentax AF280T for TTL flash support, but have not tried it yet on my Super A. - The Super A is slightly higher than the ME Super & MX and has a removable front grip, so I find it easier to hold. The Super A is still not as comfortable to hold as my K Series or LX bodies, but much better than my MX. The Super A still has enough metal in it to make it a durable non plastic camera. - Other features on the Super A are shutter speeds from 15 seconds to 1/2000, exposure compensation of +/-2EV, a DOF preview switch and self timer. The only things really missing for me on the Super A are MLU and exposure lock. - The ASA/ISO setting is on the ring used for exposure compensation and you can select between 6 and 3200 ASA/ISO. Thankfully there is no DX coding on the Super A. Film is loaded into the “magic white needles” introduced with the M Series and there is also a little window on the camera back that shows red stripes if the film is loaded properly. For continuous shooting the Super A uses the Motor Drive A and the ME II Winder. Summary: I wasn’t sure if I would like the Super A when I bought it, as it’s so different from my K Series bodies. But after using it for awhile and sending it for a CLA, it’s quite an impressive camera to use and look at! I would have given the Super A a perfect 10 if it had MLU and exposure lock, but instead I give it a 9.5 rounded down to a 9. Here is how I rank the Super A in my Pentax K-mount manual focus body collection: 1) LX, 2) K2DMD, 3) KX, 4) SUPER A, 5) K2, 6) MX, 7) P50, 8) KM, 9) K1000SE, 10) K1000. Price: I bought my Super A as part of a kit with the A50/1.7 and paid 60GBP. So my estimate for the Super A is half the cost, which is 30GBP. Both the camera and lens are in EXC++ condition. Update August 25, 2015 I liked the Super A so much I just picked up an EXC++ Super Program for $20.50CDN. The indicated price is now an average of the two cameras in USD.

Review of: Pentax 67II by gofour3 on Fri January 10, 2014 | Rating: 10

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After being in production for almost 30 years the Pentax 6x7/67 cameras & TTL metered prism finally got a complete overhaul in 1998. This new 67II & AE metered prism were designed to work together and are a completely different shooting experience. Improvements/Additions from the 6x7/67: - A redesigned metered AE prism with diopter adjustment, eyepiece blind, exposure compensation and three metering modes. The AE prism mounts/dismounts like a regular prism and the linkage chain from the older models has been removed. - Aperture priority (With AE prism) - Improved shutter speed range; 1/1000 – 30 sec. in Auto or 1/1000 – 4 sec. in Manual. - User interchangeable focusing screens. (6 standard and 6 telephoto “bright” screens) - TTL flash support with the 67II hot-shoe grip. - Battery grip on the right side and the 67II now uses two CR123A lithium batteries. - Improved ISO range 6 - 6400. - Memory lock function. - Self timer mode. - Multiple exposure mode. - Time exposure mode. Missing from the 67II: - Right side strap/grip lugs. - The remote cold weather battery cord will not work with the 67II. Summary: Having TTL flash support by adding the optional 67II hot-shoe grip is a big plus. I’m using the AF500FTZ and it works perfectly. The interchangeable focusing screens are also great and I have four. (BA-61 micro-prism & BB-61 split-image for general use, BG-60 cross-lined for landscape/shift tripod work and the BG-80 cross-lined “bright” screen for macro/telephoto work) The 67II is a great camera and has tons of features without being ruined by having auto focusing. The only negative for me is the “looks” of the camera, which I don’t like as much as the older 6x7/67 cameras. The 67II looks modern, while the 6x7/67 have the old classic look. If you want a Pentax 6x7 system body and use a TTL meter this is your best bet. If you want to use a waist lever finder and use hand held metering, then the older 6x7/67 bodies are all you need. The 67II body and AE metered prism are a complete package and really should be used together to make use of all the features. Well done Pentax! Price: The price indicated is for a boxed mint Pentax 67II body & AE metered prism. There no signs of use and the manual, warranty cards & strap were included.

Review of: Pentax 6x7 by gofour3 on Sat December 7, 2013 | Rating: 9

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Pros: MLU on the later models. There are four viewfinders available for the 6x7, the TTL & non metered prisms and the rigid magnifying & folding hoods. The build of the 6x7 is impressive. I really like the looks of the Pentax 6x7 camera and standard prism with “ASAHI PENTAX” on the front. For me it’s the nicest looking of the three Pentax 6x7 bodies, add a wooden grip and you have one tough looking beast. Cons: No MLU on the early models. The TTL metered prism and the coupling system it uses to connect to the camera body when using an "AUTO" lens. The flash sync speed is slow at 1/30s, but there are Pentax 6x7 leaf shutter lenses with a sync speed of 1/500s to compensate. One of the other issues with these older original 6x7 bodies is it’s getting hard to find one in good shape. If you find you need to replace the light seals on the camera or prism, then this web site has a good quality kit: http://aki-asahi.com/store/html/Pentax67/LightSeal/Pentax67LightSeal.php Summary: I know some of the owner history for my MLU 6x7. It was purchased in Saskatchewan Canada with the 90mm LS lens, so I can date the body to a period around 1976 – 1979. I’m the third owner. This means my 6x7 has some of the mechanical improvements that were added over the years since the original one was released in 1969, but not all of them. The last 6x7 bodies from the late 1980’s are apparently the same mechanically as the Pentax 67. Usage wise the 6x7 MLU and the 67 are the same. If you’re looking for a 6x7 I would suggest the one with MLU, as it’s newer and most likely will be in better shape. Also a 6x7 without MLU is a big negative when shooting at lower shutter speeds. I would also recommend skipping the TTL meter and using one of the other finders, along with a hand held light meter. These older TTL metered prisms are flakey and not worth the headache. If you must use a TTL prism then get one of the newer ones with just “PENTAX” on the front or go with the 67II & AE metered prism. Rating: I would give my 6x7 MLU an 8.5 rounded up to a 9, as it does not have all the mechanical improvements that the last 6x7 models do. So for the first non MLU models I would give those an 8 and the very last 6x7’s a 9. Price: I paid $800.00 CDN for a boxed mint minus Pentax 6x7 body & standard prism and 90/2.8LS lens. There were minimal signs of use and all manuals included.

Review of: Pentax Spotmatic by gofour3 on Sun March 10, 2013 | Rating: 8

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I got my Spotmatic and a couple Super Takumar lenses from a retired fellow I used to work with. He was the original owner who bought the kit in 1968. Pros: Incredible classic rugged build. Lots of metal, a real workhorse that will last for decades. Meter on/off switch. Even though the meter is a stopped down design, it’s nice to have an on/off switch. This is a lot better than the K1000, where the meter is turned on/off when you remove/put on the lens cap. Simple design. This is a great looking camera that is the perfect size. The “K Series” film bodies that I love are based on the Spotmatic chassis Cons: Not really many negatives other than there is no hot shoe or MLU switch. You can get a clip-on shoe for the Spotmatic and get the mirror to lock up by tapping the shutter button, however this is less than ideal. Summary: I really like the Spotmatic and it’s a true classic, the camera that really made Asahi Pentax a household name. Compared to the K1000, I would pick the Spotmatic as a better camera. The SP was the best camera Pentax made at the time and the K1000 was a stripped down design and the bottom of the K Series camera tree. However if I had to recommend either the SP or K1000 to a new film shooter, I would probably go with the K1000. You can use any K-mount or Screw-mount (via adapter) lens on the K1000, with the SP there is no way to use any Pentax K-mount lenses. That’s the biggest shame with these Screw-mount film bodies, they were basically made obsolete in June 1975 when Pentax introduced the “K Series” . This has made the Pentax Screw-mount bodies more of a collectors item than a practical everyday camera. Price: I bought my Spotmatic as part of a full camera kit, so I can’t really estimate the cost of the camera alone.

Review of: Pentax 67 by gofour3 on Thu January 3, 2013 | Rating: 9

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After about 20 years of procrastinating I finally purchased my first Medium Format camera in the fall of 2011 and chose the Pentax 67. I had looked at Mamiya, Voigtlander, Pentax 645 & 67II, but settled on the 67 as I liked its simplicity and all manual features with no LCD screen. Pros: The Pentax 67 has all the features that I really need most notably MLU. There are four viewfinders available for the 67, the TTL & non metered prisms and the rigid magnifying & folding hoods. I have all four and like them all except the TTL prism. I use the non metered prism for hand held shooting and one of the two hoods for tripod work. Since I purchased a hand held light meter, I rarely use the TTL prism. The build of the 67 is impressive and is better than any of my Pentax 35mm film cameras. It’s a heavy camera but not too heavy for me to hand hold at shutter speeds of 1/125s or higher. I use a tripod/MLU for shutter speeds 1/60s or lower. Film loading/unloading is simple and a lot easier than with 35mm cameras. Everything works perfectly. Cons: The only real negative with the Pentax 67 is the TTL metered prism and the coupling system it uses to connect to the camera body when using an "AUTO" lens. There is a strict procedure for mounting the TTL meter first before mounting an auto diaphragm lens or you can break the small coupling chain on the camera body. This system is Mickey Mouse at best and was finally fixed with the 67II & AE metered prism. The flash sync speed is slow at 1/30s, but there are Pentax 6x7 leaf shutter lenses with a sync speed of 1/500s to compensate. Summary: I really like the Pentax 67 camera and I'm glad I picked it over the other bodies/formats I was looking at. I mostly use the 67 around town or on short road trips where the size of the 6x7 system is not an issue. (On long trips via air I still use my 35mm film cameras.) Looking at a 6x7 slide for the first time on a light table is a wonder to behold, truly impressive over the smaller 135 & 645 formats. Price: The price I paid was for a boxed mint Pentax 67 body & TTL metered prism. There were no signs of use and all warranties/manuals included.

Review of: Pentax MX by gofour3 on Sun April 1, 2012 | Rating: 9

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Being a hardcore K Series fan/collector, the odds of me ever buying an M Series film body was slim and none. However through the “Traveling K-Mount” thread I jumped at the chance of trying out a MX for awhile. Observations: - Size does matter and this is the biggest difference for me compared to my K Series film bodies. I found the MX is too small and cumbersome to hold. I had issues where I should place my left hand on the camera and was constantly covering up the “Judas” window. I even tried just shooting with one hand! I actually find my Pentax 67 easier to handhold than the MX. Of course this is subjective and not a negative, so whether you like the MX’s size comes down to personal taste. - Look wise the MX (excluding size) is very similar to the K Series bodies. It’s the only M Series body with the full shutter speed dial and the dial layout is the similar to any K Series body. For me I felt right at home, so a big thumbs up! - The viewfinder metering display is a big change with the MX and features a half dial with coloured LED lights. I found the LED lights hard to read in bright sunlight and prefer the matching needle display used in the K Series. Though in low light the LEDs would be easier to see than the K Series matching needles. - Feature wise the MX has user changeable focusing screens, a Pentax first. I did like the biprism/microprism focusing screen in the MX. One feature missing with the MX is MLU, which is an issue in some shooting situations. - Pentax also changed the viewfinder window size with the introduction of the M Series and made it bigger. This change makes K Series & M42 viewfinder accessories (Eyecups, Ref Converters, Magnifiers & Lens correction adapters) too small for the M Series and newer bodies. Pentax released a whole new set of “M” viewfinder accessories with the MX. This is one reason why I never bought an M Series or newer body. Having a second set of viewfinder accessories for the same film format was a waste. - The MX also has a new “Magic Needle” film take-up spool which means you can insert the film leader between any two plastic slots, as apposed the K series bodies which have specific open slots. Don’t know if this is an improvement, as I had the film pop out after a few shots and I had to reload the film. I guess I did not push the leader in far enough. - The MX meter uses a new GPD (Gallium Photo Diode) sensor which is supposed to have an advantage over the older Silicon SPD sensors. The MX also has a centre weighted system. I found the metering system very good and accurate. - The MX also had a Motor Drive, Film Winder and Dial Data options. I enjoyed using the MX and it’s another ground breaking Pentax camera. Just whish it was a bit bigger! I can’t give the MX a numbered rating, as I did not have it very long. So all I can do is rank it again my K Series bodies, I’d slot it in as follows: 1) K2DMD, 2) KX, 3) K2, 4) MX, 5) KM, 6) K1000SE, 7) K1000. March 2013 Update: I had another chance to use an MX for a few weeks as part of the “Traveling K-Mount” film thread. No changes in my review, but I can now give the MX a rating of a 9. June 2015 Update: I actually broke down and bought a black MX for my collection. It’s basically unused and is in the original box with all the packaging material. It also still has the plastic shutter protector still on the inside film door. You don’t find many 30+ year old cameras in this condition, so I could not resist. Cost was $525 USD. October 2018 Update: Found a matching silver MX in "like new" condition at a local store, it's also in the original box with all the packaging material. It cost $155.00 USD, so the price listed in the review is the average cost of my two MX's.

Review of: Pentax K1000 by gofour3 on Thu November 25, 2010 | Rating: 7

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[table] Pros | Simple rugged design, not much to go wrong. Early models are very well built, like the other K series bodies. Cons | Lack of features. Overpriced in today’s market. Rating | 7 Price (U.S. Dollars) | K1000 original version & K55/2 - $60.00, K1000SE & K55/2 - $80.00 Years Owned | 6 months [/table] I can recommend this camera: Yes Value, Features, Performance & Size The K1000 is very similar to the KM, but is missing the Self Timer and DOF preview button. The SE version has an improved 2 year warranty and a split-image/micro-prism focusing screen. The early made in Japan version would be the most sought after and it has the same build quality as the other K series film bodies. The early version also came with the K55/2.0 kit lens. Camera Review The K1000 SE and K1000 are the latest additions to my K Series film body collection. My K1000 is the original made in Japan version and came with the K55/2.0 kit lens. This combo looks and feels very similar to a KM & K55/1.8. There is not much to review here as the K1000 does not have many features compared to other manual film bodies of the mid 1970’s. This however is the best feature of the K1000, fewer features mean less to go wrong! My SE version shows signs of Pentax cutting back on build quality, but the split-image/micro-prism focusing screen makes up for this. The K1000 & K1000 SE are not bad knockabout cameras, but you will need a second film body with extra features for other than the most basic shooting situations. Both are perfect “student” cameras, but sometimes the selling prices are way too high. Please avoid the latter “plastic” made in China ones, I would not recommend them. I’m basing my K1000 & K1000 SE review rating against my other K series film bodies, KM, KX, K2 & K2DMD. I rate both the K1000SE & K1000 “Made in Japan” a 7.0.

Review of: Pentax KM by gofour3 on Wed June 16, 2010 | Rating: 8

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[table] Pros | Famous K series looks and build. Cons | No mirror lock-up, no shutter release lock leaver, no "Judas" window. Rating | 8 Price | Black - $150.00, Silver - $50.00 (Estimated, was purchased in a kit) Years Owned | 1 [/table] I can recommend this camera: Yes Value, Features, Performance & Size The KM is kind of unique as it has the looks of a KX but some of the features of a screw mount Spotmatic. It shares the same soft Eveready case as the KX. The KM was the least expensive K series body from the original 1975 line-up. Features: - Famous K series looks and build. (Comes in black & silver) - Easy to use/set film speed (ASA) dial. - DOF preview button. - Self Timer. Missing Features Compared to the KX. - No mirror lock-up. - No shutter release lock leaver. - Meter is turned on by removing lens cap. - Matching needle meter system. - Unable to see shutter speed or aperture setting (Judas window) from viewfinder. Camera Review The KM is the latest addition to my K series body collection and my recent "Black" looks as good as a K2. :p Overall not a bad Pentax body, but you can get a KX for close to the same price and the KX is a better overall choice. However as a fully manual film camera for “students” this is a way better choice than a K1000 and is around the same price.

Review of: Pentax KX by gofour3 on Wed June 16, 2010 | Rating: 10

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[table] Pros | Ease of use, build and durability. Cons | None this camera has all the features you need and is built to last decades. Rating | 10 Price | Black - $325.00, Silver - $320.00 (1975 list price), Silver Split Screen - $85.00 Years Owned | Since 1975 [/table] I can recommend this camera: Yes Value, Features, Performance & Size The KX was released in 1975 as part of the new “K” series line of film cameras & lenses, featuring the new bayonet mount. The KX was second inline to the K2. The “K” series in my opinion is the height of Pentax’s quality, durability and ease of use. The KX is well built, large enough for my big hands and has all the features you need: - TTL metering - Mirror lockup - DOF preview - Self Timer - Aperture-reader window - Flash hot shoe - 1 to 1/1000 sec. shutter - ASA range 8 to 6400 - Bayonet mount Camera Review I bought my first Pentax camera in late 1975 and picked a KX, along with a K55/1.8, K28/3.5 and a K135/3.5 for lenses. This KX has been in continuous for 35 years now and had no work done to it, until 2008. (It’s first CLA and the film take-up spool was replaced) Not bad for a camera that has travelled around the world multiple times and taken pictures in all seven continents. The KX has also worked perfectly in all environments; the cold of Antarctica, the heat of North Africa, the humidity of Australia’s “Top End” and the dampness of Vancouver, Canada. The KX is perfection in a fully manual film camera. July 31 2016 Update I took my 40+ year old KX out for its yearly shoot today and it was just like getting together with an old friend! Popped in some fresh batteries, loaded the film and turned on the meter, everything worked like it was brand new. I have purchased many other Pentax film bodies over the past 10 years (Spotmatic, K1000/SE, KM, K2, K2DMD, ME, MX, LX, Super A/Super Program, P50, 6x7, 67 & 67II), but using the KX again makes me feel "happy", everything is just right with this body compared to my other cameras. The KX is by no means the "best" camera that I own, but it's still my favourite camera. All my other film bodies seem to have issues, lack of features or designs that somewhat annoy me. There is nothing I would change on the KX after these 40+ years of use that would make me like it more, it's still number one in my books.

Review of: Pentax K2 by gofour3 on Wed June 16, 2010 | Rating: 9

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[table] Pros | Build & looks. Metal shutter, automatic shutter speed option. Cons | ASA ring, no Exposure Compensation Warning and no “Judas Window". Rating | 9 Price | Black - $150.00, Silver - $75.00 (Estimated, was purchased in a kit) Years Owned | 2 [/table] I can recommend this camera: Yes Value, Features, Performance & Size The K2 was released in 1975 as part of the new “K” series line of film cameras & lenses, featuring the new bayonet mount. The K2 was the top of the line. The K2 is technically the best of the original 1975-77 “K” series film bodies and has these extra improvements over the KX: - Extra shutter speeds of 2, 4 & 8 seconds. - Automatic shutter speed option. - Dedicated mirror lockup button. - Improved film pickup and advance system. - Exposure Control dial. - Faster flash sync of 1/125 sec. - 5-bladed metal shutter. On the negative side the K2 does not have Aperture-reader (Judas) window and has the infamous dreaded ASA film speed dial. The ASA ring is also prone to getting stuck, which makes it more costly a camera to CLA. Even though the K2 has an Exposure Control dial, it does not have an Exposure Compensation Warning indicator like the K2DMD. At some time or another using the K2 you will find half way through a roll of film that you left the setting off the normal 1x. :fedup: Camera Review I bought two K2s in 2008 and enjoy them very much. I use them mostly around town and in specialty situations, like indoor macro work & night shooting, when I need the extra camera features. I still prefer my KX for traveling. The metal shutter in a K2 is truly amazing and its best feature as far as I’m concerned! The automatic shutter speed option is also handy if you want to shoot using a specific aperture and not have to worry about the meter needles aligning. I would rate the K2 close to a 10, the ASA ring and the missing “Judas Window” is stopping it from getting a perfect score!

Review of: Pentax K2 DMD by gofour3 on Tue June 15, 2010 | Rating: 10

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[table] Pros | Shutter, build & looks, Split-microprism focusing screen, “Judas Window”. Cons | ASA Ring Rating | 10 Price | $475.00 & $233.00 (Estimated, was purchased in a kit) Years Owned | 3 Months [/table] I can recommend this camera: Yes Value, Features, Performance & Size The K2 DMD is a beefed up version of the top of the line "K Series" K2 film body. It was released one year after the K2 in 1976 and remained in production for four years. In addition to the features of the K2 Pentax added the following on the K2 DMD: - The “Judas Window” Aperture Read-Out - Exposure Compensation Warning - Built-in Eyepiece Blind - Low Battery Voltage Warning - Photo Memory Lock - Extended Photo Memory - Split-Microprism Focusing Aid - Interchangeable Backs - Motor Drive Unit (Optional) - Battery Grip (Optional) - Data Back (Optional) Prices in January 1978 were as follows: K2DMD Body, Black - $566.50 Data Back MD - $447.50 Motor Drive MD - $343.95 Motor Drive Battery Grip M - $124.95 Motor Drive NiCad Battery Pack M - $124.00 Motor Drive Charge Pack M-120V - $33.35 Motor Drive Power Pack M - $207.00 Motor Drive Power Cord M 3M - $15.00 Motor Drive Power Cord M 10M - $25.00 Motor Drive Trigger Cord M - $15.00 Camera Review I only have the K2DMD body, without the expensive options listed above. I found a close to mint CLAed copy a few months ago and already I can tell this is the best K series film body that Pentax made. With all the additional features added to the already great K2, this is a perfect film body without being too complicated. The build & looks of this camera is second to none and it’s only available in black! :cool: Even with the infamous ASA ring, that truthfully you get used to after awhile, this camera has no faults. And yes the sound of that metal shutter will give you Goosebumps!!:D