Originally posted by yeatzee Its a prime 300mm lens, not a zoom he is refering to.
Yes, the long lens to the body. This is why EXIF shows 300mm and infinity distance
The short lens must be a lens with a resolution outresolving the sensor by a large factor! So, very good is not necessarily good enough. Search for a prime lens which is sharper at f/4 than at f/5.6.
Originally posted by yeatzee The only way to get more DOF without softening from diffraction is focus stacking...... period.
That's the point. 5:1 with 5µm pixels means 1µm detail and we're operating at the limits of optics.
"Photons may be larger than they appear" is written in capital letters in your images if you magnify this much
I used f/4 which has little DoF. But this is the lens' best resolving aperture. Close the aperture and diffraction kills effective magnification. Microscopes are f/1 for a reason...
Focus stacking is key and you'll need many photos.
You may find it hard to find a DoF calculator which covers this situation.
You get 5µm blur at f/4 at 20µm from the focus plane and this is your DoF!
So, to cover a 4mm bee head requires 4000µm/40µm or 100 photos!
And one last word:
Light is like from a f/4:6 (f/24) aperture and shake is like from a 300mmx6 (1200mm) lens.
So, this is like taking 100 1200mm f/24 photos. Have a good macro rail and a very good lighting solution. It's all shaky and dark like hell ...
If you want to mount a ring flash, you'll need a K-mount filter ring adapter which doesn't exist. Building one yourself from a spare rear lens cap is the nly solution I am aware of. It is easier than it sounds by using filter size step adapter rings.