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07-18-2010, 07:38 PM   #46
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I'm working on a profile for the DA 35 mm macro. The biggest thing I found out is that it's important to have the horizontal lines really horizontal. Also, I printed a letter sized chart using a printer that's not very good and the program couldn't use it at all - I need to print that size on a laser printer.

It's turned out to be not that difficult to do - the instructions are pretty intimidating, but it turned out to be easier than I had expected. Their suggestion that you check exposure is a good one - twice I forgot to change the shutter speed when I changed the aperture.

The profile at the moment is one distance and 3 different apertures (f2.8, f8, f18). I plan on shooting at least one other distance, perhaps a second at macro distance. I can see a definite difference when I looked at the chart pictures with and without the profile, but wonder how much (if any) better it will be if I add additional apertures in addition to the other distances?

07-19-2010, 06:48 AM   #47
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QuoteOriginally posted by mtngal Quote
It's turned out to be not that difficult to do - the instructions are pretty intimidating, but it turned out to be easier than I had expected. Their suggestion that you check exposure is a good one - twice I forgot to change the shutter speed when I changed the aperture.
Don't know what camera you are using, but if you have a two dial DSLR (*istD, K10D, K20D or K-7) you can use HyperManual, which is actually an ideal mode for this kind of work. Just make sure exposure is locked (using AE-L) and every change of aperture will be compensated by a change in shutter speed to ensure exposure stays constant. May work with a single dial DSLR too, but it has been too long since I used one...

Wim
07-25-2010, 03:41 AM   #48
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I like the demo of the lens correction tool. I am thinking of downloading it and evalute it. Where can i find a trial version? And do you think there will be any profiles available for my old manual lenses?

Per
07-25-2010, 03:06 PM   #49
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QuoteOriginally posted by pyra_ohms Quote
I like the demo of the lens correction tool. I am thinking of downloading it and evalute it. Where can i find a trial version? And do you think there will be any profiles available for my old manual lenses?

Per
There's no "trial version", Per -- the lens profile creator is free of charge:

Adobe Labs - Adobe Lens Profile Creator

Now, if you want to use the profiles it creates with Adobe Photoshop / Camera Raw or Photoshop Lightroom, those you need to pay for, obviously. Trials are available on Adobe's website.

As for availability of profiles, you make them yourself, or find somebody who's made and shared one. You can create profiles for your manual lenses with a bit of effort, or you may find somebody else has profiled them (but I'd imagine the older the lens, the less likely somebody has made a profile yet unless it's a particularly popular model).

07-25-2010, 03:13 PM   #50
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Great! I'm a give it a go with some M lenses tomorrow.
07-26-2010, 05:12 AM   #51
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Aerodave, I would love a profile for the 21mm Ltd.
07-26-2010, 08:44 PM   #52
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ishpuini Quote
Don't know what camera you are using, but if you have a two dial DSLR (*istD, K10D, K20D or K-7) you can use HyperManual, which is actually an ideal mode for this kind of work. Just make sure exposure is locked (using AE-L) and every change of aperture will be compensated by a change in shutter speed to ensure exposure stays constant. May work with a single dial DSLR too, but it has been too long since I used one...

Wim
Yeah, sounds like you just need to do AE-L even with single dial DSLRs
07-26-2010, 08:45 PM   #53
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Also, word is Adobe is working on a site for hosting profiles and reviews. Should be sweet. I can't wait for this to get off it's feet and have profiles for all kinds of lenses, like vintage m42 and russian glass, etc.

07-27-2010, 09:24 AM   #54
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QuoteOriginally posted by pbarnz Quote
Aerodave, I would love a profile for the 21mm Ltd.
Yeah, me too. But I've never figured out how to solve my large-format printing problem. And as far as I can ascertain, big charts are necesary for complete profiles of wide-angle lenses.
07-31-2010, 04:17 PM - 1 Like   #55
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Try Kinko's or a graphics/printing shop that prints architectural drawings. I used a large format copier and printed the chart onto regular bond paper (36" wide). It seemed to work well for the profile that I created for the DA 35 macro, better than the one I printed on a poor quality inkjet type printer (which didn't work at all).

Here's the profile I did for the DA 35 macro and raw. It's made up of 3 apertures and two different focus distances. Let me know what you think. I started to do a profile with the jpg files but used two was playing around with 2 different modes and forgot to change back to something neutral. I might go back and do it again, but think I'll play around with what I have for now (I tend to shoot raw only anyway).

Last edited by mtngal; 07-31-2010 at 04:27 PM.
07-31-2010, 05:35 PM   #56
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QuoteOriginally posted by mtngal Quote
Here's the profile I did for the DA 35 macro and raw.
Thanks for sharing!
08-01-2010, 07:25 PM - 2 Likes   #57
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Another profile - the DA 55-300.

I used 55, 70, 100, 200 and 300 focal lengths, and 3 different apertures. I figured that since I was using the same chart for all of them I had different distances (in fact, shooting the target at 300 mm I needed to be in the hallway to get enough distance) I figured I didn't need to shoot other distances. It's bigger than the one I did for the 35mm because I had more sets in it. I'd be interested what others think of it.
08-02-2010, 06:56 AM   #58
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Thanks for the DA35 profile
08-02-2010, 06:52 PM   #59
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QuoteOriginally posted by mtngal Quote
Another profile - the DA 55-300.

I used 55, 70, 100, 200 and 300 focal lengths, and 3 different apertures. I figured that since I was using the same chart for all of them I had different distances (in fact, shooting the target at 300 mm I needed to be in the hallway to get enough distance) I figured I didn't need to shoot other distances. It's bigger than the one I did for the 35mm because I had more sets in it. I'd be interested what others think of it.
Is it right that there would be a significant amount of correction for this lens. So I am trying this on some images of my son playing soccer that I shot at 300mm, and to my eye it looks more distorted after applying the correction.

I tried to make an example but it is really hard to see side-by-side. You have to turn it on and off on an image to really see the difference.
08-04-2010, 08:59 PM   #60
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I wasn't that surprised by the amount of geometric correction the program came up with for my lens. The one I used is my second lens - the first was decentered and pretty fuzzy everywhere except for the center, and then only at about f14 or so. When I was trying to decide whether there was something wrong with it or if my expectations were just too high, I took a lot of brick walls. There's a fair amount of distortion that I never noticed when shooting real stuff, but it shows up when you shoot such things. And I did check to see how the charts I shot looked both with and without the profile. The lines were much straighter using the profile than without.

One of the things I noticed when I was using DxO (the old version) was that I would get used to seeing a picture the way it came out. I'd look at it a couple of times, then run it through DxO. Often I thought the corrected version looked sort-of weird, because I had already gotten used to the first way of looking at it, I guess. This was with the DA*50-135, too, which I never thought had much distortion (I haven't really tried the profile that was posted here as I haven't used the 50-135 much recently).

Don't know if that's what is happening with your picture or not - it could also be that your lens doesn't have as much distortion as mine does. Having had two of these lenses now, I think there's a certain amount of individual variance (the one I have now is significantly better than the first one I had).

P.S. Are you using Lightroom? If so, then you can always make a virtual copy of the picture, apply the profile to one of them and export them both. Then you can put them side-by-side using photoshop.
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