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06-23-2010, 07:37 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by aquashin Quote
K10D, ISO 800 in the house. That's about how far I would go with K10D.

Found this at B&H. Looks good to me, but how do I put the cap back on on top of the hood?
Pentax - 49mm Round Rubber Lens Hood - 34260 - B&H Photo Video
Yes, that's the hood for the FA50/1.4. I have this one along with a generic $5 one from Adorama. I prefer the Pentax, though both do the job. The Pentax one is trimmer and made of thicker rubber with a metal mount threaded on both sides. With the hood collapsed, you can put a lens cap on. I use metal screw-in caps on most of my lenses, as they tend to stay on better, especially when mounted on top of the hood. Because the Pentax hood is trimmer against the lens, I can leave it on and still fit the lens in its case. The generic hood is slightly bulkier. I use it with my F35-70, but I don't leave it on all the time, which means it doesn't always get used! Even though the generic one is a bit flimsy compared to the Pentax hood, it has survived my cat absconding with it and shoving it under the couch several times.

06-23-2010, 07:39 AM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by aquashin Quote
K10D, ISO 800 in the house. That's about how far I would go with K10D.
You really should find a way to use ISO 1600. What about a free noise reducing program like Photome for the shots that you find objectionable? What mode are you shooting in (Program, Manual, Av, Sv, Tv)? Does a K10D allow TAv? That's my favourite, with Auto ISO. Do you have auto ISO activated?


QuoteOriginally posted by aquashin Quote
Found this at B&H. Looks good to me, but how do I put the cap back on on top of the hood?
Pentax - 49mm Round Rubber Lens Hood - 34260 - B&H Photo Video
That should be a good one. You put the cap on the filter threads inside the hood.
06-23-2010, 08:49 AM   #18
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Lens Hood

A few people on the forum (including myself) use these: New Metal Standard 49mm Screw-in Lens Hood + Cap - eBay (item 200470403546 end time Jul-07-10 21:16:35 PDT)

The price is no more than those cheap rubber hoods, it's metal (protects well against occasional knocks & bumps) and it comes with a clip-in lens cap. I usually add a good quality UV filter to most of my lenses, EXCEPT for things like these fast fifties- if you're actually just using a filter for protection, the lens hood will suffice.

The nifty thing about this seller's lens hoods is that they're actually also threaded on the inside circumference, and so you don't have to unscrew the hood to add things like a polarizer, etc. (It will be a different diameter though, my 49mm hood has a 58mm lens cap.)
06-23-2010, 08:50 AM   #19
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Most of the times I use Av and set the ISO manually (but the camera does allow auto ISO) to give me the combination of shutter speed and aperture I want. I will try TAv next time and see if I like it. I have limited experience with PP software, tried noise reduction with photoshop CS3, but noticed noise reduction tends to unsharpen already soft images? But I could very well be wrong as I didn't spend much time with PP. I guess I agree in some situations (like in my dark house) I'm forced to go ISO 1600 with K10D.

I guess I'm ordering the hood today and see if that makes difference. Will post some pics if available.

06-23-2010, 11:01 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Aristophanes Quote
1/125 to 1/160.

For a running kid you need a shutter speed of 1/1,000,000,000 + f/.001.

...with a flash.
Bwahahahahaha!!!! That's great! So true!
06-23-2010, 12:37 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by aquashin Quote
Most of the times I use Av and set the ISO manually (but the camera does allow auto ISO) to give me the combination of shutter speed and aperture I want. I will try TAv next time and see if I like it. I have limited experience with PP software, tried noise reduction with photoshop CS3, but noticed noise reduction tends to unsharpen already soft images? But I could very well be wrong as I didn't spend much time with PP. I guess I agree in some situations (like in my dark house) I'm forced to go ISO 1600 with K10D.
I would rather have noise than too low a shutter speed. At least I can clean up the noise from high ISO.

My FA 50 is soft at 1.4, but not at f2, and it's very sharp at 2.8. There are a lot of things that could be spoiling your photos. You may be seeing motion blur, or maybe missed focus due to the camera or lens. I"ve read many accounts of back and front focus with a K10D. All Pentax cameras except the K-7 will front focus in tungsten light at wide apertures. Sometimes the lens is off. You should do some tests to help diagnose.

Even if everything is working properly, at 2.8 and wider, there's just no room for error. Are you sure the camera focussed where you think it should have? I use center focus and recompose, because I don't trust auto-select. Even with center focus, it's tricky to nail a moving subject at wide aperture.

QuoteOriginally posted by aquashin Quote
I guess I'm ordering the hood today and see if that makes difference. Will post some pics if available.
Both excellent ideas.
06-28-2010, 09:32 AM   #22
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As mentioned though ... bounce flash is necessary with fast moving kids ... and even then it sometimes still isn't enough.

No matter how fast your lens is ... it's a case of getting at least most of the child on focus ... whic still retaining some separation from the background.

I find I have better results from afar with my Tamron 90mm Macro f/2.8 and bounce flash ... I mainly shoot around f/4.5 just to get that little bit more in focus.
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