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06-25-2010, 02:59 PM   #1
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Help identifying lense

Hi.
I got an old but mint EBC FUJINON 1:1,8 55mm from my grandfather. It has a screw mount.

Any info on this lense? Is it any good, and will I be able to use it with my k-x or k10d camera? (not asking how to use it, I can read up on that myself, but IF it will fit).

Cheers.

06-25-2010, 03:18 PM   #2
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You can use it on both the Kx and K10 but you will need the M42 adapter. As far as the quality of the lens, sorry but I cannot help you there.
06-27-2010, 12:51 AM   #3
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You need to modify the lens slightly - grind the nub at the back of the lens, to use it on your camera body with m42 adapter.
12-11-2010, 04:54 AM   #4
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I finally got a m42-pk adapter, thats the right one ?
the Fujinon have this smal nub at the back which controls aperture. And I need to grind it off?
How will metering work with this combo? can it even stop down, like with M series?
I dont have the lens here with me, so I cant test it. But I want to be sure before I try.

12-11-2010, 06:23 AM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by Skog Quote
I finally got a m42-pk adapter, thats the right one ?
the Fujinon have this smal nub at the back which controls aperture. And I need to grind it off?
How will metering work with this combo? can it even stop down, like with M series?
I dont have the lens here with me, so I cant test it. But I want to be sure before I try.
You do not want to grind the nub that controls aperture. You want to grind the nub that hangs just outside the screw threads. You will not be able to control aperture on those lenses as they are fully automatic and have no manual mode to lock the blades. Unless you modify the pin or glue it down.

Quality wise I found the two fuji fujinon lenses that I have very sharp and produce good colour. Excellent lens but can only be operated wide open without modification.
12-11-2010, 11:09 AM   #6
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EBC stands for Electron Beam Coating or Control or something. I think they were advertising it as a 14-layer coating. Pentax had finally convinced everyone that 7 was good, so 14 wasn't a coincidence. The result was pretty good and EBC often means a higher selling price on eBay.
12-11-2010, 12:17 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by epqwerty Quote
You do not want to grind the nub that controls aperture. You want to grind the nub that hangs just outside the screw threads. You will not be able to control aperture on those lenses as they are fully automatic and have no manual mode to lock the blades. Unless you modify the pin or glue it down.

Quality wise I found the two fuji fujinon lenses that I have very sharp and produce good colour. Excellent lens but can only be operated wide open without modification.
Does this apply to the pentax m42 lenses also? Sad to only be able to shoot it wide open, seems like a very nice lens otherwise.

12-11-2010, 01:50 PM   #8
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its a fujinon EBC ... M42 screw, very nice lens , you wouldn't regret it to buy the converter.... nice bokeh and good in low light...
12-11-2010, 01:50 PM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by Skog Quote
Does this apply to the pentax m42 lenses also? Sad to only be able to shoot it wide open, seems like a very nice lens otherwise.
Any M42 lens with an auto-manual switch won't have this problem. Super-Takumars and later versions all had the switch. Earlier lenses had some method to accomplish the same thing. There might be one or two exceptions. The manual setting, where the camera has no connection with the aperture, is meant for use with older M42 cameras. It's a little irony that it makes the same lenses easier to use on DSLRs.

Later M42 lenses sometimes eliminated the switch because so many newer M42 cameras could use the lenses in auto mode. With no switch, you could modify the lens or adapter to push the aperture control pin in, whichever is easier.
12-11-2010, 10:41 PM   #10
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A good lens, and a sore problem. With the auto-only M42 lenses I first bought a couple years ago, I glued down the auto pin with superglue. This unfortunately lessens the resale value and makes them harder to use on auto-M42 cameras. I have read of other ways to deal with the auto pin, but they usually involve disassembling the lens base, which I don't wanna do. Instead, I have sold the auto-only M42 lenses that I didn't ruin, and I try to avoid buying more -- good ones, anyway.

So, you need to ask yourself: Is this a lens you'll want to keep forever? Do you care what it may be worth in the future? Will you ever get an auto-M42 film body to use it on? Do you feel competent to take the lens base apart? I understand an M42-PK adapter with an inner flange to hold the auto pin is available sometimes, for well over US$100. How many auto-only lenses to you think you might get in the future? Enough to justify buying an expensive adapter?

Last edited by RioRico; 12-31-2010 at 05:20 AM.
12-12-2010, 02:33 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by Just1MoreDave Quote
Any M42 lens with an auto-manual switch won't have this problem. Super-Takumars and later versions all had the switch. Earlier lenses had some method to accomplish the same thing. There might be one or two exceptions. The manual setting, where the camera has no connection with the aperture, is meant for use with older M42 cameras. It's a little irony that it makes the same lenses easier to use on DSLRs.

Later M42 lenses sometimes eliminated the switch because so many newer M42 cameras could use the lenses in auto mode. With no switch, you could modify the lens or adapter to push the aperture control pin in, whichever is easier.
This is correct. some M42 lens have an auto manual switch. Sadly however, none of the Fujica/Fujinon lenses had this ability as Fuji didn't think it was necessary as the camera could control it. But you can easily glue it down or even tape it if you dare. If you are more adventurous you can open it up and place a small piece of a straw to hold it down. I am not so adventurous. I just shoot it wide open when I use my Fuji lens. I have an PentaxM F1.4 50mm so my Fujinon doesn't see much use unless I have a field day with my screwmounts.
12-31-2010, 02:46 AM   #12
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Fitted the adapter to the lens now and played with it over the holidays. And I have to say I am impressed with it. Really nice lens! I've only been able to shoot it wide open, but it is surprisingly sharp even so. The pictures from it have a special look to them, very lively, almost a 3d effect. And it has a pleasant bokeh.
01-01-2011, 01:01 AM   #13
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Almost all 50s and 55s benefit greatly from being stopped down to around f4-f8 (in terms of sharpness), so it would be a pain to have to shoot wide open all the time.

I'm not sure why so many people seem to be shying away from performing the very simple mod needed to convert auto-only lenses to presets. As I say, it's very simple and straightforward, you just remove the back plate from the lens, and use a piece of drinking-straw cut to the appropriate length to hold the aperture pin in the "in" position. Takes about 5 minutes and is painless (though I have to say I haven't tried it with this particular lens).
01-01-2011, 01:31 AM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by m42man Quote
Almost all 50s and 55s benefit greatly from being stopped down to around f4-f8 (in terms of sharpness), so it would be a pain to have to shoot wide open all the time.
Interestingly, I've sold a few (modest) lenses with diaphragms stuck wide open, listed as having non-operative apertures, and they've sold for good prices. Either buyers thought that the Lentar 25/3.5 or Petri 55/1.8 or CZJ 50/2 or SuperTak 200/4 were worth trying to repair (impossible for the Petri) or they just wanted to shoot wide-open. I've seen notes on various forums from wide-open shooters, especially of faster lenses, who take the attitude: I bought this for its speed.

QuoteQuote:
I'm not sure why so many people seem to be shying away from performing the very simple mod needed to convert auto-only lenses to presets.
Because on many lenses, removing the back plate seems a non-trivial task, and risky. There's the fear that various springs and bits will go flying into the void. Especially daunting are those lenses whose base plates are NOT secured by a few screws, but which require disassembly of the lens body. No sir, I just won't f**k with those, not unless they have other problems that demand surgery.
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