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07-24-2010, 12:40 AM   #31
axl
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well you are talking of nice wide for streets...
the widest I normaly use is 31 and majority of my shots are with 43-50. I found 85 good FL too and now I've been trying 100....
So "nice wide"... sorry but can't help you on that one...

07-24-2010, 04:23 AM   #32
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I don't have much experience with street photography, but what little I have done was with the FA35 and DA21.

The DA21 it's very small, lightweight, and "non-threatening" to people, and the angle of view is excellent for environmental portraits (eq. to what 31mm gives on a film camera). I could carry my K-7+DA21 kit all day in my right hand, no strap around my neck. You have to be comfortable being pretty close to your subjects, however.

The FA35 allows you to be a bit farther from your subjects (or take "tighter" shots from the same distance), but it is a bit larger, especially with the hood on. It's aperture will allow you to keep shooting longer when the light is fading.

The suggestion of using the kit 18-55 is a good one, altough I would suggest you pre-set it at one focal lenght and leave it there for each outing. This way you'll get used to that focal length angle of view, and you will have one less thing to fiddle with when shooting.
07-24-2010, 05:03 AM   #33
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IMO something longer is best for the purpose, such as the FA77 or FA* 85mm.
07-24-2010, 06:27 AM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by Adam Quote
IMO something longer is best for the purpose, such as the FA77 or FA* 85mm.
It seems there are two "schools of thought" regarding street photography. One is "longish lens candid from afar", the other is "wide-ish lens from up close". I tend to prefer the latter, as it often makes the viewer feel like he is "in" the scene.

07-24-2010, 07:22 AM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by RioRico Quote
Long lens hoods are intimidating too, or anything protruding from a camera at face level. A little RF / P&S is much less frightening, another reason to keep such at hand. But I should take my Praktica FX3 out more. It's a classic no-battery 135 SLR that also lacks a pentaprism, depending on a waist-level ground-glass VF.
A P&S would be nice option, but most have a shutter lag that gets in the way.
07-24-2010, 07:29 AM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by RBellavance Quote
It seems there are two "schools of thought" regarding street photography. One is "longish lens candid from afar", the other is "wide-ish lens from up close". I tend to prefer the latter, as it often makes the viewer feel like he is "in" the scene.
I'm of the wide school of thought because my view of street shooting is that you are down at or near the street; it's happening all around you, and your opportunity to frame and focus is fleeting. A wide angle lens not only gives the feeling of being there, but a margin for error. With a 12-15mp sensor or modern 35mm film, you've got room to crop.

You can take photos of the street from your room with a longer lens, but that is window shooting. (That's for you, Mike )
07-24-2010, 11:29 AM   #37
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QuoteOriginally posted by GeneV Quote
A P&S would be nice option, but most have a shutter lag that gets in the way.
It's amazing how much that lag drops if you simply pre-focus, though.
07-24-2010, 11:31 AM   #38
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I guess wide ish 15mm to 28mm pre focused, f8 and shoot from the hip.

07-24-2010, 02:04 PM   #39
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QuoteOriginally posted by RBellavance Quote
It seems there are two "schools of thought" regarding street photography. One is "longish lens candid from afar", the other is "wide-ish lens from up close"...
This is so true. I am surprised that Javier (jgredline) has not weighed in on this thread. He generally shoots a 28mm on 35mm film and shorter on digital. A few weeks back he decided to give the "long" view a try with a 135mm (can't remember if it was on film or digital). Wow! What a difference! His work had an entirely different face. The long stuff was entirely blah and somewhat voyeuristic. His short lens stuff, in comparison, is usually pretty intimate and often enough shows the subject interacting/reacting with/to the camera.

So I guess it depends on what you are wanting to shoot and how safe you want to be.


Steve
07-24-2010, 02:30 PM   #40
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I've yet to see a top street shooter (who isn't shooting portraits) who consistently uses/used longer than a standard focal length.

QuoteOriginally posted by Marc Sabatella Quote
ISO maybe a couple of times a day, when the sun comes up and then when it goes down.
For street stuff, I use ISO changes a lot. Going in and out amongst buildings, shadows, changing orientations to the sun etc. I want total control fast. But that's a preference and not everyones necessity.
07-24-2010, 02:45 PM   #41
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QuoteOriginally posted by Marc Sabatella Quote
It's amazing how much that lag drops if you simply pre-focus, though.
I suppose it depends on the P&S. On the one my wife uses, it seems very easy to lose focus lock. However if you pre-focus an SLR or manual film camera, the lag is effectively zero. That's the beauty of that wide lens and F8.
07-24-2010, 02:59 PM   #42
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
This is so true. I am surprised that Javier (jgredline) has not weighed in on this thread. He generally shoots a 28mm on 35mm film and shorter on digital. A few weeks back he decided to give the "long" view a try with a 135mm (can't remember if it was on film or digital). Wow! What a difference! His work had an entirely different face. The long stuff was entirely blah and somewhat voyeuristic. His short lens stuff, in comparison, is usually pretty intimate and often enough shows the subject interacting/reacting with/to the camera.

So I guess it depends on what you are wanting to shoot and how safe you want to be.


Steve
I had the same feeling when I did some street shots with the K-x/DA70. The DA70 is so sharp that you are tempted to crop. I caught some interesting goings on, but I felt I was spying, rather than taking in a public scene.
07-24-2010, 05:18 PM   #43
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I think the idea that a street setup should be geared around something small and discreet is overated, but that's just me. Obviously if you have a camera that is the size of a small dog, it is going to be harder to go unoticed but I figure some people can adapt to what they have and will naturally try different techniques to get the shots they're after. For me, I actually prefer to have some eye contact with the subjects on the street.
07-24-2010, 05:28 PM   #44
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QuoteOriginally posted by fractal Quote
...if you have a camera that is the size of a small dog, it is going to be harder to go unoticed...
[LIGHTBULB FLASHES INSIDE MY HEAD!!]

But of COURSE!! Go to cheap store. Buy cheap stuffed animal. Remove excess stuffing. Insert camera, with wide 'street' lens protruding slightly from toy animal's mouth. Maintain good grip on camera. Proceed as usual. Now, instead of being seen as a voyeur / pervert, you're just that weirdo whose face is stuck up a toy animal's butt. Perfect camouflage, eh?

Last edited by RioRico; 07-24-2010 at 05:39 PM.
07-25-2010, 12:37 AM   #45
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QuoteOriginally posted by RioRico Quote
[LIGHTBULB FLASHES INSIDE MY HEAD!!]

But of COURSE!! Go to cheap store. Buy cheap stuffed animal. Remove excess stuffing. Insert camera, with wide 'street' lens protruding slightly from toy animal's mouth. Maintain good grip on camera. Proceed as usual. Now, instead of being seen as a voyeur / pervert, you're just that weirdo whose face is stuck up a toy animal's butt. Perfect camouflage, eh?


The funny thing is, I have actually heard people discussing this on Flickr. Although, they were suggesting using a remote shutter trigger as opposed to putting your face up its rear end.
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