[neverbnnba]

I bought this for my k10d and I think I goofed, it won't mount on the camera, it's will fit the holes but a sliding black tab keeps it from fitting flush to the mount and turning...It says pentax so is this for a pentax video camera or something? The converter has the number 861 on the side.

[Ole]

It is a K-mount all right but form pictures I have seen of it the sliding black tab is somewhat large and there may not be room for it in the k10D.

If you have an original Pentax K, M, F or FA lens you could compare.

The tab has no function on a DSLR, so perhaps you could remove it, or grind it down (assuming that you're talking about the tab that moves when you turn the aperture ring).

[gp1806]

The tab opens the aperture on the lens. Is yours bent? Post a pic.

[Le Chuck]

Sorry for resurrecting an old thread, but I happened to take one of these apart yesterday, and after encountering the same problem after re-assembly I thought I'd make a note here for future reference.

The problem is that the aperture simulator, which should be flush with that slightly elevated inner area of the base plate can stick out. Looking at the male (camera side) mount, you will see two sets of notches for a spanner wrench. The inner set is used to hold all the glass inside an inner barrel. The outer set screws that barrel (which also holds all the aperture mechanics) into the housing. If it is screwed in too tightly, the aperture simulator may stick out.

The problem is easy to fix if you have a lens spanner: Turn the barrel clockwise by using the spanner wrench on the outer set of notches and observe how the aperture simulator starts to disappear into the housing. Stop turning once it is flush with the surface and it should mount again. Do NOT turn it any further then necessary: after a few rotations, the whole inner barrel will drop into the housing and you'll have to take the whole thing apart to get it back together.

Hope someone will find this useful at some point.

PS: If you want to de-glass it just turn the inner set of notches counter-clockwise and all the glass elements will come out. No further disassembly required or recommendable (learned that the hard way )

PPS: There are at least 2 different Albinar-branded 2x TCs for K-mount – I'm talking about this one.

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Last edited by Le Chuck; 07-01-2017 at 04:27 AM.