I just wrote a quick guide to the buyer of my DA12-24mm lens. I figured others here who recently bought this lens can use it as well. Coming from an MF only background and never having used a lens below 35mm, the experience of using this was new to me. I only had the chance to take this lens out for three spins before selling it so I'm sure others with more experience can add to it.
On the K-x there are certain challenges in using wide angle lenses because of a lack of focus confirmation points. I turned off auto focus points because the camera had a tough time guessing which object I wanted in focus in such a wide angle of view. Center focus with focus-and-recompose worked very well in my experience.
At about 9-10 feet and onward is considered infinity focus on the DA12-24. So do not be surprised that the lens will focus at or close to infinity for 90% of your subjects. The lens actually makes very little sound during AF because it doesn't move very far each time it grabs focus.
People think because this is an ultrawide, you don't really need to focus. Absolutely false. At 12mm pretty much everything looks sharp on your small camera screen. However, once you zoom into 100% on your computer monitor you will see that out of focus areas are slightly blurry. The difference between in focus areas and out of focus areas is little but the difference is extremely important. To get the most out of this lens, you will need to focus carefully. You'll know that the object is in focus when it literally pops out for a neat 3-D effect like on the tire treads and wheel hub:
As well as the metal pipes here:
At 12mm, f5.6 to f8 is the sweet spot for sharpness across the entire lens. Wide open f4 surprisingly has the best center sharpness at 12mm.
At 18mm, f5.6 is the sweet spot for sharpness across the board.
At 24mm, f8 is the sweet spot for sharpness across the board.
If using it as a portrait lens at 12mm, you want to focus on the eyes and be slightly above the subject to avoid enlarging their nose. It helps to be taller than the subject of course. You want the closest feature on their face to be their eyes, not their nose. If you're shorter than the subject, you're asking for unflattering portraits. Profile shots at 3/4 angle produces interesting portraits and almost ensures their eyes to be larger.
Because of how wide this lens is, split screens are almost useless. It's best to use AF with spot focusing and the AE-Lock button to do focus and recompose. Another option is to use the AE-LOCK button as AF and disable AF on the shutter release.
The lens is relatively flare resistant. However, on long exposures of 5 seconds and longer, it will be prone to lens flares. You can use it to your advantage at times:
That was from a relatively weak street light on a long exposure. I didn't anticipate it at all until the photo was shown on the camera screen.
Make sure your lens hood is on tight. If it's not twisted all the way in until it clicks, the shorter end will show vignetting on the upper right corner and lower left corner of your image caused by the lens hood. I once had a series of image suffer that particular vignetting, very annoying.
Buy ultra thin filters for this lens. At 12mm, regular filters will vignette.
One of the best features of this lens is its ability to zoom while shooting a long exposure shot. This feature alone makes this lens superior to the DA15 in my book.
A certain weakness of all ultra wide angle lenses is the extremely large depth of field. It tends to flatten out images that would otherwise have strong perspectives. A way around it is to use the gradient tool in LR3. Drag a gradient on the background and decrease sharpness for the entire gradient. It's much like a Lensbaby effect like below:
For the people deciding between this and the DA15. The DA15 boasts of a smaller size, a better build and better center sharpness with lower CA, it also happens to be $150 cheaper. The DA12-24 is an all-around better lens. It is easily worth the extra $150. The DA12-24 vignettes less at 15mm, has noticeably less distortion (very important for ultra wides), has
much better border sharpness and extreme border sharpness which is important on an ultra wide considering the natural subject matters (landscapes, cars, small rooms). Oh and the extra 3mm differential is HUGE. Each mm is worth more on the wide end. The fact that it can zoom to 24mm is an added bonus. It's not everyday that a zoom will beat a prime in general sharpness, distortion control and vignetting, but the DA12-24 somehow pulls it off splendidly.
A lot has been made of how the DA15 "controls your mind". Right... in that case, the DA12-24 is the Hypnotoad.
[YT]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W84DLa0CLNE[/YT]
Explore the possibilities of ultra wide angles by shooting downwards. At 12mm, it gives the impression that you're shooting from a higher vantage point. Just be careful to avoid shooting your feet.
While it seems like most of the car is in focus, it's not. Only the door handle is in focus. That photo shows just how little difference there is between the in focus and out of focus areas. The difference may be small but it is crucial.
Last edited by hangu; 08-09-2010 at 05:34 PM.