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08-19-2010, 09:42 AM   #46
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Gosh, that is a sweet collection and the red K-x fits with your motorcycle (in your signature).

08-19-2010, 09:49 AM   #47
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Stop down metering is as easy as pressing a button - the camera stops down and sets a shutter for you automatically - so no, it's nowhere near "as bad as" manual focus.

It's true, though, that older cameras didn't require that extra step - they had a mechanical linkage that allowed them to "read" the aperture ring setting. Modern lenses use electrical linkages, so modern cameras have dropped the old mechanical linkage - this is the so-called "crippled" mount. A minor nuisance, mostly, given the existence of a one-button "semi-automatic" stop down metering (unique to Pentax, as far as I know).
08-19-2010, 03:45 PM   #48
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Aha and that will keep you from using a fast frame rate? (has to be remeasured every time)
08-19-2010, 04:23 PM   #49
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QuoteOriginally posted by JoepLX3 Quote
Aha and that will keep you from using a fast frame rate? (has to be remeasured every time)
If the lighting hasn't changed, there's no need to re-do the exposure reading. Remember the Sunny 16 exposure rule? That's often close enough. For manual metering, just take a reading off the subject, or read off the lightest and darkest areas and expose midway between them. Once you're in the groove for subject and light, just wail away!

08-19-2010, 04:31 PM   #50
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QuoteOriginally posted by johnmflores Quote
Click on the pic with the DA40 and you'll see a whole bunch of primes. I use the DA Limiteds for play and the DA* zooms for work.
Now I own a few DA ltds, and a few zooms, I've found there is a whole lot of truth in what you say. For me though "work" is covering family events where a zoom works best.
08-20-2010, 10:01 AM   #51
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QuoteOriginally posted by JoepLX3 Quote
Aha and that will keep you from using a fast frame rate? (has to be remeasured every time)
Why would you expect to need to re-meter between shots when taking a burst of frames, meaning you're essentially taking the same shot over and over? In general, you only need to re-meter between shots when the light has changed.
08-20-2010, 04:22 PM   #52
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I know, but didn't know the camera would know / could remember...
08-20-2010, 05:28 PM   #53
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QuoteOriginally posted by JoepLX3 Quote
I know, but didn't know the camera would know / could remember...
You actually think the camera resets itself after every single photo?

08-20-2010, 06:22 PM   #54
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Well, it does in a sense continually reset itself in anything but M mode. But M mode is what you'll be using with manual exposure lenses that require stop down metering.
08-20-2010, 06:31 PM   #55
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M- mode as in "My mother might"-be able to handle this?
- Sounds like a nice challenge this old 50 mm F2 lens for a P&S-guy
08-21-2010, 08:07 AM   #56
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Hey,

I've been following this thread loosely and finally have the time to chip in my 2-cent.

Won't be able to give any comment with regard to lens, as I've only have my K200D for 2 mths. However, similar to the OP, I do have an LX3.

Being able to use LX3 quite well (at least I could take whatever I want to capture most of the time), I had a hard time with the new K200D.

Reasons:
- LX3 is a very powerful camera and whatever they have built inside make things very easy for a photographer. To use a DSLR, it's an entirely different case.
- The difference in sensor size (between a PnS and a DSLR) changes everything. In my LX3 days, I did not need to worry about depth-of-view issues (as almost everything in the frame is in focus), however when it comes to an DSLR, it needs to be taken care of, or i'd have the picture focus on the wrong place (ie. on the nose only instead have the full face in focus, etc)
- There are other issues like metering, view finder and such.

My suggestion is actually to get the camera (K-x?) with 18-55 and/or 55-300 first and have some hands-on for a few months. This way, you'll know what exactly you need. Doing desk-study may not give you the best knowledge.

Once you have a better idea, make purchase of the lens together so you can make use of the 'bulk-discount'.

There are lens I thought I needed but it turns out not to be the case. when I go over the pictures I've taken.

Currently I'm using 2 x kit and a manual 50/1.4. I am still learning how to use the camera and hope that one day, I could use it as comfortably as I am with the LX3.

Cheers,
Another Joseph with LX3
08-21-2010, 08:10 AM   #57
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Forgot to explain about 55-300:
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/post-your-photos/105927-sports-more-u8-soccer-action.html

Don't think you'd go wrong with this lens when your kid(s) grow up.
08-21-2010, 09:10 AM   #58
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QuoteOriginally posted by josephleaf Quote
My suggestion is actually to get the camera (K-x?) with 18-55 and/or 55-300 first and have some hands-on for a few months. This way, you'll know what exactly you need. Doing desk-study may not give you the best knowledge.
I've spent about 5 futile posts expounding on that very point. Fortunately, it's not my money.
08-21-2010, 04:19 PM   #59
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QuoteOriginally posted by josephleaf Quote
Forgot to explain about 55-300:
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/post-your-photos/105927-sports-more-u8-soccer-action.html

Don't think you'd go wrong with this lens when your kid(s) grow up.
Nice photo's, but I am pretty sure I don't need the > 200 mm reach for at least a couple of years. Therefore I prefer to invest in the better IQ and Aperture of 2.8 in the mid range tele. Have you seen pictures with the DA*50-135 mm F2.8 or Sigma 50-150 mm F2.8?
You might think this lens is not worth that money for me, but I prefer to spend something more to get the possibility to take the best pictures of my kids at this age. The prices of these better lenses are pretty high, but still within for me reasonable budget and more interesting than going for K-7 instead of K-x.

Yeah, there are people that start with the K-7 with 2x Kit lenses, I prefer the K-x with 1x Kit free lens and a faster (mid range) tele lens (iso initially spending money on a lens I don't want). Is that stupid?
- Here at the DSLR side of this forum they agree with my approach:

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-dslr-discussion/111141-k-x-vs-k-7-...ns-set-up.html

On the wide side of the range I don't know which upgrade I want to get (still some margin in my budget), but on this point I agree with you on this side of the forum that it is probably better to first play with the kit lens a little more, before making the investment into the wrong focal length.
- Still friends?

Just for your information, I am of course already "dreaming" ahead, but don't worry, I won't buy it before playing enough with the tools I will get first.
- Portrait prime: 50 mm F1.4
- Walk around prime: 30 mm + compact
- Ultra wide zoom (or prime): 10-20 mm
- Something macro (flip a lens, extension tube or used manual focus prime)
- Flash
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