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09-29-2010, 05:20 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by klh Quote
Eruditass, can you explain further what you mean? I have the Tamron 70-200/2.8 on my K20D.

I experience the same issue with soccer. I typically use AF-C center point (I can always crop later), but it often finds better contrast in the background (especially as the subjects are moving) and I miss focus. I've got a lot of great pictures of the cars behind the game.

I tried setting my focus point manually and using the lower center point, but this only works when the distance is just right.

Lately I've set up the AF button to "cancel AF" and when my player is in focus (I'm using a split focus screen), I hold the AF button to stop the focus from changing until the action moves significantly. This works well when the player is halfway across the field, or when someone steps into my way for a moment.
If you push the lens-release button, it retracts the AF-screw. It's the same as moving the AF/MF switch but it is on the other side where it is reachable by the right finger. So, if I hold that in, move the Tamron to MF, I can manual focus near the subject, then switch the Tamron to AF and let go to resume focusing. Of course, if you are not good with your hands, you could somehow rotate the lens off the mount while doing this, but I've never had anything close to that happening.

I do this on all my AF lenses without QS.

09-30-2010, 09:44 AM   #17
klh
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QuoteOriginally posted by Eruditass Quote
If you push the lens-release button, it retracts the AF-screw. It's the same as moving the AF/MF switch but it is on the other side where it is reachable by the right finger. So, if I hold that in, move the Tamron to MF, I can manual focus near the subject, then switch the Tamron to AF and let go to resume focusing. Of course, if you are not good with your hands, you could somehow rotate the lens off the mount while doing this, but I've never had anything close to that happening.

I do this on all my AF lenses without QS.
Aha! I get it now. Thanks.
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