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09-30-2010, 07:00 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Pentaxor Quote
JP, had you tried adjusting your focusing screen?
Thanks for the reply, Pentaxor.

This may seem odd to you but ... how am I supposed to do that?

As usual, I am not too versed in dealing with "fixing this or that" and any help would be welcomed.

Thanks!

JP

09-30-2010, 07:19 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by jpzk Quote
Thanks for the reply, Pentaxor.

This may seem odd to you but ... how am I supposed to do that?

As usual, I am not too versed in dealing with "fixing this or that" and any help would be welcomed.

Thanks!

JP
well, for safety precautions, there is a more elaborate and better instruction of that instead of me trying to explain it. I think there are threads here in the forum that provides that information. basically, it involves removing some shims (installed in the camera) or adding shims, which would mean adding some small modifications or adjustments to make your focus spot on. or you can just simply install a new focusing screen, also the instructions are provided in the website where you will buy the screen, e.g. focusingscreen.com.

I think the lens is not the problem since it pretty much spot on with your K20D. so the focusing screen could be it. or had you adjusted the VF diopter as well?
09-30-2010, 07:28 PM   #18
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I was going to say check the diopter also
09-30-2010, 07:52 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by jpzk Quote
Thanks for the reply, Pentaxor.

This may seem odd to you but ... how am I supposed to do that?

As usual, I am not too versed in dealing with "fixing this or that" and any help would be welcomed.

Thanks!

JP
Are you going by what you see in the viewfinder, or are you relying on the green hexagon focus indicator?

If you're going by sight, then yes, you'd have to adjust the screen, though you might have to get a different shim from Pentax.

If you're going by the focus indicator in the viewfinder, then you can use your AF Adjustment--"Adjust All" to adjust the focus indicator for manual focus, like you would for your AF lenses. Then you're messing with every other lens you use though, unless you have adjustments for all of them as well.

I found that when I went from the K20 to the K7--the K20 was always dead on, then I needed to adjust with the K7 and learned that trick.

Good luck!

09-30-2010, 08:06 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Mikheil88 Quote
Hi "Dude" . Helios is an old Soviet lens for M42 mount, but I guess you already know that. I don't have Helios 40, but instead I have Helios 44M and it's preferred to be used on "Zenit" cameras. Like 40, it also doesn't have multicoating. I'd recommend you Zeiss, but in any case, please check this review:
Helios 40-2 85mm f/1.5 (M42 to Pentax) - Review / Test Report
this is exactly Helios 40 which is tested on Pentax! On the other hand, this must be that Zeiss 85:
Zeiss ZA Planar T* 85mm f/1.4 ( Sony SAL-85F14Z ) - Review / Test Report

Maybe reviews will be helpful...
Small correction here--the Helios 40 is adapted from an M39 mount, so you do lose infinity, as the original poster said.

The Helios 40-2 though is a native M42 mount.

I've had both the Helios versions and lacking infinity never bothered me--it's more for the crazy bokeh which you don't get at infinity anyway The single coating is also easy to work around and can sometimes provide really nice tones. When it hits, it's amazing. I sold my 40 version and regretted it instantly. I then found a 40-2, which I think is a bit bigger too, and I also really enjoy it. I've lent it to a friend for a while, but I can't remember if I ever even tried to shoot infinity with it!

The CY Zeiss 85 is also different than the ZA Planar T* in its rendering--I'm not sure what's changed, but it's more than coatings. I had the ZK, Pentax mount, version and it was outstanding.

Your CY Zeiss--is it an MM version? The smallest aperture is in green? Then you should be able to convert it to M42 mount using the Leitax kit--if not, you might need to put it on your Canon and use the Helios on the K-x!

So that'll mean you'll have to keep them both!

btw, where are you--I see Canada, but you're talking in Euros.
09-30-2010, 08:23 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by jpzk Quote
Tuco!

At F1.4 to F1.8, the subjects (still objects) seem not in focus.
As soon as I stop down to F2.8 and down, results are as expected ... great!

I have a bunch of photos taken but I don't know how to post them so they appear all in one post here on this forum.
But, the real problem is, I am wondering why this is happening?

Do you have any idea at all?

If not, I will try to find some answers somewhere ...

Cheers.

JP
Gee, I not sure. Do you focus with the green light focus indicator or visually through the finder with the K-7? I haven't experienced that issue on mine.

Are you trying to post pictures from Flickr? If so, just select the picture, click on the Share this drop down button above the picture, click on the Grab the HTML/BBCode link, select picture size, check the BB code option, highlight and copy everything between the first set of (and including these tags)[url]https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-slr-lens-discussion/ ... [/url] and paste them into your response here.

If the pictures are on another hosting sight, just click on the Insert Image icon and copy the URL from where the picture is and repeat for every picture.

Last edited by tuco; 09-30-2010 at 08:35 PM.
09-30-2010, 08:33 PM   #22
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jpzk, here is a shot with the Zeiss T* 85/1.4 ZK on my K-7 using the green focus light. I focused just on the ball. Handheld, f2.0, 1/15 sec with ISO200. You can see the DOF is really shallow and it is where I aimed it at

10-01-2010, 04:46 AM   #23
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Farfisa: I live in New brunswick, but I was using euros as thats how I paid for the Helios and forgot how much it was in our real money

re: MMlens, yes, its actually the desirable MMG west german model, so I might be able to trade it to a guy on mflenses for a MMJ and some Ca$h , then I would use the leitax adapter , if not like you said, Ill have 2 cameras with me and walk around with 3 KGs of premium glass around my neck, great for knocking out black bears or skateboarders


cheers

10-01-2010, 07:46 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by jpzk Quote
Tuco!

(Dude ... I apologize for braging in on your thread)

I hope you can help me with this:

I also own a Carl-Zeiss T*Planar 85/1.4 ZK ... quite a lens indeed!

Anyway here's the trouble I am faced with:

I use this lens quite a bit with my K20D and the results are spectacular.
Today, I did mount it on my K7 and I am totally annoyed because it just doesn't focus as accurately as with the K20D.

I did test it mounted on a tripod, using the 2 second timer to avoid vibrations; different ISO's; different focal lengths.

At F1.4 to F1.8, the subjects (still objects) seem not in focus.
As soon as I stop down to F2.8 and down, results are as expected ... great!

I have a bunch of photos taken but I don't know how to post them so they appear all in one post here on this forum.
But, the real problem is, I am wondering why this is happening?

Do you have any idea at all?

If not, I will try to find some answers somewhere ...

Cheers.

JP
Got your PM, it seems like you have been given a good place to start adjusting the focus screen and diopter. Let us know how it goes from there. My first question is can you hit focus at all? I recall from shooting my K20 that the focus screen was not totally accurate as to what was in focus, as in, at 1.4 DoF being as shallow as it was, I often burst shot through targets slowly adjusting focus as I did so. I found perfect focus was somewhere just before it appeared to come into focus on the screen. Focusing with live view is the best way to know if you can hit focus or if the lens is sat too far away from the sensor to hit inifinity at all at that aperture. It sounds like it's not too far off as by 2.8 your DoF is enough to encompass the focusing error, so it will be a very minor adjustment.

Kelly.
10-01-2010, 07:59 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by farfisa Quote
Small correction here--the Helios 40 is adapted from an M39 mount, so you do lose infinity, as the original poster said.

The Helios 40-2 though is a native M42 mount.

I've had both the Helios versions and lacking infinity never bothered me--it's more for the crazy bokeh which you don't get at infinity anyway The single coating is also easy to work around and can sometimes provide really nice tones. When it hits, it's amazing. I sold my 40 version and regretted it instantly. I then found a 40-2, which I think is a bit bigger too, and I also really enjoy it. I've lent it to a friend for a while, but I can't remember if I ever even tried to shoot infinity with it!

The CY Zeiss 85 is also different than the ZA Planar T* in its rendering--I'm not sure what's changed, but it's more than coatings. I had the ZK, Pentax mount, version and it was outstanding.

Your CY Zeiss--is it an MM version? The smallest aperture is in green? Then you should be able to convert it to M42 mount using the Leitax kit--if not, you might need to put it on your Canon and use the Helios on the K-x!

So that'll mean you'll have to keep them both!

btw, where are you--I see Canada, but you're talking in Euros.

I'm remiss as to where I've saved my lens diagrams, but the CY and ZK differ. The ZK is slightly reworked, but appears similar in rendering. I think the new coatings help contrast somewhat, but there seemed to me to be more CAs. Either way, I enjoyed the ZK and now have a Leitax'd CY (after finding the ZA for my Sony A900 to be lacking by comparison).

Further, I would suggest in owning each the Biotar 75, Helios 40-2 and Zeiss 85 CY that all three have found a reason to continue to exist in my possession. I really had hoped for financial reasons that I'd find an easy victor, but this hasn't been the case. The Biotar perhaps may find less use since the arrival of the Helios. It is 'cleaner', sharper wide open and with better contrast than the Helios, who's bokeh and diffusive glow wide open I enjoy more often. The Planar is in a different class. The CYs and ZKs are both more modern with higher contrast due to better coatings as a result, better corner to corner sharpness from wide open and with 'normal' bokeh of a high order. For a paid gig, you'll want the Planar.

K.

Last edited by thePiRaTE!!; 10-01-2010 at 08:06 AM.
10-01-2010, 01:01 PM   #26
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Hi Kelly

The problem is , I woill have to mod the Planar with a M42 end to fit on the K-X body that I prefer, someone on another forum offered to swap me a MMJ planar for the MMG one, so I will have to see what transpires

re: Helios , apparently it was refused by Canada Customs for some reason and was returned to Moscow, LOL, My luck is awesome!


BTW: the photos that got me interested in the Helios in the first place were your *painterly* bokeh ones of the flowers, they are really good

cheers
10-01-2010, 03:23 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by thePiRaTE!! Quote
I'm remiss as to where I've saved my lens diagrams, but the CY and ZK differ. The ZK is slightly reworked, but appears similar in rendering. I think the new coatings help contrast somewhat, but there seemed to me to be more CAs. Either way, I enjoyed the ZK and now have a Leitax'd CY (after finding the ZA for my Sony A900 to be lacking by comparison).

Further, I would suggest in owning each the Biotar 75, Helios 40-2 and Zeiss 85 CY that all three have found a reason to continue to exist in my possession. I really had hoped for financial reasons that I'd find an easy victor, but this hasn't been the case. The Biotar perhaps may find less use since the arrival of the Helios. It is 'cleaner', sharper wide open and with better contrast than the Helios, who's bokeh and diffusive glow wide open I enjoy more often. The Planar is in a different class. The CYs and ZKs are both more modern with higher contrast due to better coatings as a result, better corner to corner sharpness from wide open and with 'normal' bokeh of a high order. For a paid gig, you'll want the Planar.

K.
Kelly, great to see you back here! I think you've probably sold more ZK lenses with your images and posts than anyone. A shame Zeiss and Voigtlander glass is no longer being made for Pentax. With the new bodies the best is yet to come!

I have the Biotar 75 too, but I must confess that I really love the Helios 40-2 despite, or perhaps because of its technical shortcomings in comparison to the Biotar. It's a little wilder, I find, though the Biotar can do wild if you hit it right.

I had the 85 ZK, but opted to stick with the Pentax for my 85/77. I've thought more than once about converting a CY--let us know how it goes, dude163!
10-01-2010, 03:39 PM   #28
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dude163, more then likely the seller sent the item as a gift to avoid local tax obligations or in the misbelief that they were doing you a favour by not needing to pay customs duties. Naturally customs would have decided the attached declaration was providing false information.
10-01-2010, 04:17 PM   #29
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I think thats what happened too, if he had just wrote ( 45 year old lens) I think I would have been OK

Im really glad I didnt buy his Photosniper kit!!
10-01-2010, 09:17 PM   #30
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The Tair 300A is a better idea then the PS kit unless of course you want to use the included Zenit camera. Hinman's thread on the lens is an interesting read. The 300A is a straight M42 mount with preset aperture control and traditional focussing off the lens barrel whereas you have that cam on the lens for focussing on the Snaiper lens. If you can find the beast, you can also convert the Tair 300A to a permanent PK mount.
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