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10-04-2010, 05:28 AM   #1
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1000mm Takumar?

Saw a classified ad for 1000mm Takumar but can't find any samples or reviews on the web. It's about a 2 hour drive from where I live and I'm not so sure how interested I am in this. Looks like a unique opportunity though.

1000 mm SLR lens Vernon, Okanagan

10-04-2010, 07:02 AM   #2
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There is also a 1000mm F8 K mount lens which I believe is the same unit, described in my book as
-5 elements in 5 groups
- rack and pinion focus
- minimum focus 100 feet
- mionimum aperture F45
- weight = 5.25 KG
- length 738mm (anout 30 inches)

seems to be the same lens just K as opposed to M42.


What would concern me is the 100 foot minimum focus distance. You would be constantly adding an extension tube to this for most useful things.

since Image size = subject size x focal length / distance

I can see no advantage to this lens over my vivitar 400F5.6 which focuses to 22 feet. Assuming you can approach minimum focus distance, my vivitar will yeild a bigger image in the viewfinder than this monster.beause although it is only 40% of the focal length I can get more than 4 times closer.
10-04-2010, 07:18 AM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lowell Goudge Quote
What would concern me is the 100 foot minimum focus distance. You would be constantly adding an extension tube to this for most useful things.

since Image size = subject size x focal length / distance

I can see no advantage to this lens over my vivitar 400F5.6 which focuses to 22 feet. Assuming you can approach minimum focus distance, my vivitar will yeild a bigger image in the viewfinder than this monster.beause although it is only 40% of the focal length I can get more than 4 times closer.
But the whole point of this lens is to take pictures of things you can't get close to.
10-04-2010, 07:57 AM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by boriscleto Quote
But the whole point of this lens is to take pictures of things you can't get close to.
while this is true, and may work in some situations, I would like closer.

for larg birds, for example, a hawk, you could fill the frame at 100feet, but for smaller birds, closer would be much better, and even for the fidgety type you can approach to much less than 100feet. As I said earlier, I presently get into trouble with the 22 foot close focus of my vivitar 400. I can see using a LOT of extension tubes with this baby to focus closer. and when I look at 1000mm options, my Celestron C90 did not cost this much new, and can focus to 3 feet. much more useable for me, I think.

Although I have to admit, it is pretty intimadating.

10-04-2010, 08:26 AM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lowell Goudge Quote
Although I have to admit, it is pretty intimadating.
That's the other reason to have this lens, the looks of envy from the Canikon users. I didn't say it was practical. I can't imagine what the CA is like on this lens. Even the 300mm Super-Taks were prone to CA.
10-04-2010, 08:32 AM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by boriscleto Quote
That's the other reason to have this lens, the looks of envy from the Canikon users. I didn't say it was practical. I can't imagine what the CA is like on this lens. Even the 300mm Super-Taks were prone to CA.
There are several examples taken with the K 1000/8 here in the forum and they don't look that bad - indeed they look surprisingly good.

Ben
10-04-2010, 08:55 AM   #7
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As always, Lowell makes a lot of sense but I have the k-mount version of the lens and I'm really enjoying it.

I've just started experimenting with extension tubes: it works but the tubes eat a lot of light and, of course it's a slow lens to begin with. Just for fun, I tried a portrait of my daughter at +/- 50 ft and 68mm of extension.



I don't know what kind of coatings the Tak has but mine is an smc version. Even so, I get a lot of magenta/green fringing (or ca or whatever that is). I deal with it by desaturating those fringes in pp but I'm looking forward to learning how to use more sophisticated tools. Stopping down to +/- f/16 helps a lot.

Also be aware that the lens requires serious support: because of its physical length it's very subject to vibration.

It is, as Lowell suggests, at its best when used on larger birds--hawks, herons, pileated woodpeckers etc



But I've used it with the AF 1.4x and 2x-L TCs with not-horrible results.

10-04-2010, 10:17 AM   #8
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for the CA, my processor PSP X3 has a good tool that lets you select the color of fringe yo want to deal with and the size of the region, and it can work with multiple fringes, all yuou have to do is select what you want gone.

out of curiosigy is 68mm extension and 50 feet the limit?

10-04-2010, 10:31 AM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lowell Goudge Quote
for the CA, my processor PSP X3 has a good tool that lets you select the color of fringe yo want to deal with and the size of the region, and it can work with multiple fringes, all yuou have to do is select what you want gone.

out of curiosigy is 68mm extension and 50 feet the limit?
Yeah I know the tools are out there but learning these apps is a challenge for an old buzzard like me.

68mm is all the tubes I have--and perhaps a bit beyond the limit of good sense.
10-04-2010, 11:13 AM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by dadipentak Quote
Yeah I know the tools are out there but learning these apps is a challenge for an old buzzard like me.
you mean the photo of the hawk was a self portrait?
QuoteQuote:
68mm is all the tubes I have--and perhaps a bit beyond the limit of good sense.
yeah it's all I have too, and by my calculations based on a 33 meter minimum focus distance on the lens, 68mm will get you to 15 meters
As for good sense or not, It should not darken the image too badly because you are still much greater than focal length, until yo go beyind about 100mm of extension, I doubt there is enough impact to hurt light fall off.

\If you are pushed for tubes, look for an old 3x teleconverter. I would do 2 things with it. Take out the guts including linkage since this is a preset lens any way, and second cut it in half and look for a 100-150mm long pipe, then set the now separated tube into the pipe, and you can get down to between 5 and 10 meters, or better yet, use a bellows.

I can just see the mechanics now to hold a bellows and camera in line with this beast, but boy could you focus close.

as an aside, didn;t pentax make a really low diopter close up for these things, something like 0.05 or something. I seem to recall this for the 135-640mm zoom

Last edited by Lowell Goudge; 10-04-2010 at 11:45 AM.
10-04-2010, 11:28 AM   #11
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Oh, so at this ratio, the tubes really don't eat light as badly as I thought. Thanks for that info, Lowell!
10-04-2010, 11:51 AM   #12
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Here's a link to info on the non-mirror version: Takumar 1000mm F8 Lens Reviews - Pentax Lens Review Database

The mirror version is in the database as well

Adam
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