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10-08-2010, 12:26 PM   #16
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Thanks guys, these start to become fishy (better usage of lens than other examples)
- I understand 75 Euro is not much for this lens, but I decided to wait for more...
- So the current owner can make somebody else happy

10-08-2010, 12:51 PM   #17
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k10d
Zenitar 16mm F2.8


10-08-2010, 01:02 PM   #18
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Thanks, great shot!!!
10-09-2010, 04:30 PM   #19
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Just a few of mine:







10-09-2010, 05:17 PM   #20
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Like those too!!!
10-09-2010, 06:22 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by JoepLX3 Quote
So it can work well, but probably "only" with very close objects - mainly more indoor than outdoor
Do I have correct understanding?
I use my Zen16 indoors usually, but outdoors quite a bit too. You must understand the special edge of this tool -- it works best for close subjects where you either want to show their immediate context, or separate them from their surroundings. The Zen16 makes backgrounds shrink. That mighty range of mountains becomes a line of mole-hills. Those skyscrapers in a cityscape become jagged bumps. And whatever is within 1-2m looms large. I use it for group shots in a cafe, to pull-in everyone at the table and make the walls shrink away. Or to grab a nearby flower or face or artifact, to show yet trivialize what's around them. Or within any closed or rounded space, to show their totality.

I have over 100 lenses to mount on my K20D. I usually carry about 6 of those. The Zen16 is almost always in my bag, along with a walkaround zoom, fast and macro 50's, an 85/2, and my weird Schneider Betavaron. DON'T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT IT!
10-09-2010, 06:53 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by RioRico Quote
I use my Zen16 indoors usually, but outdoors quite a bit too. You must understand the special edge of this tool -- it works best for close subjects where you either want to show their immediate context, or separate them from their surroundings. The Zen16 makes backgrounds shrink. That mighty range of mountains becomes a line of mole-hills. Those skyscrapers in a cityscape become jagged bumps. And whatever is within 1-2m looms large. I use it for group shots in a cafe, to pull-in everyone at the table and make the walls shrink away. Or to grab a nearby flower or face or artifact, to show yet trivialize what's around them. Or within any closed or rounded space, to show their totality.

I have over 100 lenses to mount on my K20D. I usually carry about 6 of those. The Zen16 is almost always in my bag, along with a walkaround zoom, fast and macro 50's, an 85/2, and my weird Schneider Betavaron. DON'T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT IT!
Alright, you are re-opening the discussion, thanks!!!
- I tend to understand it is also about technics (utilize the fisheye properly and shorter focal length is potentially not always better - that is why I bought UWA zoom)

If you would have a Samyang 8 mm and a Zenitar 16 mm, which one would you take?
- Having over 100 lenses you probably own a 8 mm or 10 mm Fisheye (zoom) as well...

Two questions:
- What are you best 2-3 16 mm FE shots? (not feasible with 10 mm UWA)
- What do you use those filters for?
10-09-2010, 08:28 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by JoepLX3 Quote
If you would have a Samyang 8 mm and a Zenitar 16 mm, which one would you take?
I've not use an 8mm so I can't really say. I *can* say that they are likely totally different tools. The 16mm is fairly general-purpose in the applications I mentioned above.

QuoteQuote:
Having over 100 lenses you probably own a 8 mm or 10 mm Fisheye (zoom) as well...
I'm weak on the ultrawide side. I have a DA10-17 FE zoom that @ 10-12mm is great for emphasizing geometrical structures and relationships. I have a Vemar 12mm full-frame FE that doesn't get a lot of use. And I have a Kenko 180 Degree FE adapter that I mount on a 28-80 or 37-70 zoom. At around 40mm it captures a full-circle on the APS-C frame; by 60mm it's more like a 10mm FE but not as sharp; at 80mm it's not that different from the Zenitar, but not as sharp.

QuoteQuote:
Two questions:
- What are you best 2-3 16 mm FE shots? (not feasible with 10 mm UWA)
- What do you use those filters for?
Oh, the best are probably shots I've yet to take, heh heh. But it's really dramatic stopped down to f/14, with something 4 inches / 100mm from the lens, dwarfing its clear sharp background. Near-infinite DOF is great! My best 2-3 shots? That's as hard to answer as for my best 55/1.4 shots. Try googling for Zenitar images. And I didn't get filters with my PK-mount Zenitar, so I can't answer that. Cheers!

10-09-2010, 09:47 PM   #24
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d'oh, you have a 10-24mm. I'd go for something like the Pentax 10-17mm.

I have a Zenitar and a Sigma 10-20mm is on the way. The Zenitar is nice though for its f2.8 in close subject isolation and its size. We'll see how much use it gets though.

Last edited by Eruditass; 10-09-2010 at 10:25 PM.
10-09-2010, 09:54 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by RioRico Quote
I've not use an 8mm so I can't really say. I *can* say that they are likely totally different tools. The 16mm is fairly general-purpose in the applications I mentioned above.

I'm weak on the ultrawide side. I have a DA10-17 FE zoom that @ 10-12mm is great for emphasizing geometrical structures and relationships.
As stated in title, I already own the Tamron 10-24 mm UWA, so probably need to add a 8-10 nm FE, rather than 16 mm FE.
10-10-2010, 01:35 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by JoepLX3 Quote
If you would have a Samyang 8 mm and a Zenitar 16 mm, which one would you take?
Hmmm. . . I have a Sigma 8mm and a Zenitar 16mm and the Zenitar goes in my bag more often, usually as a diagonal fisheye for film, and/or a compact and cheap substitute for my Pentax 12-24 on digital in adverse conditions.

I agree with RR: a (non-zoom) diagonal fisheye is a specialized tool for messing around with geometry.

QuoteOriginally posted by JoepLX3 Quote
- What are you best 2-3 16 mm FE shots? (not feasible with 10 mm UWA)
a 10mm rectilinear lens has a wider field of view on APS-C than an 16mm fisheye, so any shot you could do with a Zenitar on APS-C is feasible with your Tamron 10-24. It's pretty easy to introduce the Zenitar's fisheye distortion in postprocessing if you just want to make your ultrawide shots fishier.

QuoteOriginally posted by JoepLX3 Quote
- What do you use those filters for?
The colored filters that mount to the back of the Zenitar are for black-and-white film. Use the clear one for color.
10-10-2010, 01:52 PM   #27
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I'm looking into getting my first fisheye and it's a toss up between the Zenitar 16mm and the DA 10-17mm.

First of all I take it that the Zenitar can be used on both film and digital, which is a major selling point for me because I use both. As far as quality goes, though, how does the Z compare to the Pentax DA? The DA is over twice the price, but do you get twice the image quality? The zoom function isn't THAT appealing to me on the DA, but I don't want to skimp on glass.

Is the DA worth saving for over the Zenitar?
10-10-2010, 02:58 PM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by Turbo_Spool900 Quote
I'm looking into getting my first fisheye and it's a toss up between the Zenitar 16mm and the DA 10-17mm.

First of all I take it that the Zenitar can be used on both film and digital, which is a major selling point for me because I use both. As far as quality goes, though, how does the Z compare to the Pentax DA? The DA is over twice the price, but do you get twice the image quality? The zoom function isn't THAT appealing to me on the DA, but I don't want to skimp on glass.

Is the DA worth saving for over the Zenitar?
As I've mentioned, I have both. The Zen and Tokina-made 21/3.8 and 24/2.8 spend a lot of time both on my ZX-M (where they are WIDE) and on my K20D. The DA10-17 came first, one of my original Pentax lenses and indeed it's the lens that first drove me to Pentax. But now I use the Zen more (see below).

On FF the Zen is nicely fishy; on APS-C it's like a bent 24mm. The 10-17 is more versatile; the Zen is handier, noticeably faster at that FL (f/2.8 vs f/4.5). The Zen is all manual, the 10-17 is all auto. It's rather like the difference between my F35-70/3.5-4.5 and my M50/2. Wide-open IQ of the 10-17 is a wee bit better than the Zen, but that's likely because it's slower. Stop-down the Zen a bit and its IQ is quite good. To my delaminating eyeballs, from f/5.6 up they're about the same. Images at the same f-stop on the Zen, and the 10-17 @16, are hard for me to tell apart; so no, at 16mm you DON'T get twice the quality. But the 10-17's quality is quite good throughout its entire range, and 10mm is NOT at all like 16mm.

These are different tools for different applications. If you want extreme-to-moderate distortion, to work in small and/or rounded spaces, to play with geometry, the 10-17 is splendid. If you want an affordable UW lens with moderate distortion (on APS-C) for handheld use indoors and out, the Zen is splendid. I'd rate the Zen as a very good everyday working lens, and the 10-17 as more for special occasions. I would not part with either of them.

Last edited by RioRico; 10-10-2010 at 03:04 PM.
10-10-2010, 03:44 PM   #29
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Thanks for the reply! Very useful information and much appreciated.

I think I'll try the Zen.
10-10-2010, 04:04 PM   #30
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You've made a wise decision.
It's a fun lens for a relatively small investment.
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