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10-29-2010, 11:08 AM   #91
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QuoteOriginally posted by troglodyte Quote
Paperbag,
I can always stopdown? A FF has a bigger focusing area so it's easier to focus faster f-stops? Lastly, a faster lens behaves way better at f3.2 than a lens that starts at f3.2? But I'd still like to try that f2 21mm zuiko. I think 99% of my
A split prism screen is what really helps focusing those small f-stops. You can spend 30 dollars on a split prisim screen for your camera, or 2500 on a FF body, your choice .

The old addage that a 1.4 lens is better at 2.8 than a 2.8 lens is at 2.8 is just that, old. In the film era, optically superior lenses ALSO had faster f-stops, because pros needed them. It's not nearly as necessary except for some very specific effects (see the f1.2 thread floating around). The point is, most people shoot at f2.8 so that their picture is actually in focus, and a high quality lens can be made quite small that would be sharp right from wide-open 2.8 (or 3.2). That's the general philosophy behind the DA ltd line - pre-stopped down, and half the size (or less) to faster glass that you would stop down to f3.2 anyway if you wanted to take a decent picture.

There is a good example of this: The A 50mm 2.0 and M 1.7 lenses are identical at f 2.0. However, they are both different than the A 50mm 1.4, because that lens has a different number of aperture blades, and optical design. A comparison of all three lenses at f2.0 would show that the A 50 1.4 has a superior optical design. Theoretically, that lens design could be scaled down to a 2.8 design and get the same picture as the 1.4 stopped down to 2.8.


Last edited by paperbag846; 10-29-2010 at 11:15 AM.
10-29-2010, 11:12 AM   #92
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QuoteOriginally posted by troglodyte Quote
problem was not getting PP right, the other 1% was exposure. You know how if you darken an image colors look richer? The A50 can do that and blur out the bad parts. I can do the same with the da21 if I PP properly changing gamma, colors and sharpening.
Glad to see you are getting the hang of PP... it will really open up some amazing possibilities. I found the more comfortable I got with PP, it actually changed the way I exposed pictures. The images I shoot these days would look terrible straight out the camera... often very dark. But if you know how to expose a digital image (very different from film IMHO) then you can do anything you want in post .
10-29-2010, 11:22 AM   #93
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I actually find f2.5 my favorite f-stop with my A50 for close ups. But if I'm super careful I can do f2. Under f2 is way blury. Except I have this one dreamy pic of my son's Pooh Bear first birthday cake that looks dreamy at f1.7.
10-29-2010, 11:26 AM   #94
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Yes, the "effect" of wide apertures that you cannot get any other way is the dreamy aspect. It's a good thing to have access to, and that effect is enhanced as you go longer (50 is better than 2, 85 is better than 50!) In the end, thats why you would want a good collection of primes at different focal lengths, but it is not important for them all to be f 1.x (IMHO). I generally find if I'm not going for an effect, I shoot all my lenses between 2.8 - 4, unless I want EVERYTHING in focus.

10-29-2010, 12:57 PM   #95
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I unfortunately don't have LBA. I only have a da21, A50 f1.7 and ISCO m42 f3.5. The ISCO may not be sharp at any aperture but sure does render a good image that looks like film and requires little PP with lots of color and character. It's sort of gives all
10-29-2010, 01:03 PM   #96
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pics the Graduate or French Connection look. You can't beat good German glass. Old Pentax glass is like the poorman Japanese German glass. If I ever win the lottery I'd love some Leica S glass.
10-29-2010, 01:24 PM   #97
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Hey trog I wanted your oppinion on the DA 21 - outside of your problems getting the correct colour balance etc., I was curious what you thought of the FOV and the aperture. Do you find you are getting acceptable shots inside at f 3.2?
10-29-2010, 08:01 PM   #98
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If you act like a tabloid photog or do environmental portraits, it works great. It works for landscape. Candids. What it can't do is extreme low light cave work in my home! It sucks with flash and gives smooth focus.
Thats the hardest thing about this lens

10-29-2010, 08:05 PM   #99
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either it nails focus or it misses completely. When that happens it also completely messes up exposure so you get this mixture of posturization, clay face, smoothness, and haze. But the pictures are nice with lots of texture if properly taken. It's not an
10-29-2010, 08:10 PM   #100
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easy lens to use even though it's 'automatic' and digital. The A50 is like a point and shoot in comparison if your goal is professional looking photos. If your goal is Ken Rockwell like, that's another story... :P
10-29-2010, 09:40 PM   #101
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QuoteOriginally posted by troglodyte Quote
environmental portraits
Thats what I want it for! Maybe also some street stuff, landscapes, architecture.

So the 3.2 is too slow for indoors without a flash, eh? I've always had trouble getting the right exposure with the on-board flash, but if I use an external flash it seems to co-operate. For some reason, the on-board flash tends to adjust the amount of light it emits... over / under expose. Really spotty. I want manual control of that flash!
10-29-2010, 10:08 PM   #102
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If the light is on in the other room it's a no go. You need to be right next to a 60 watt lamp or a 100 watt lamp in a family room. The pop up flash is a no go. Pop up works with the 50 'ok' but is utter ass with the da21. But I go bare back 99.9% anyway!
10-29-2010, 10:17 PM   #103
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Flash on Pentax is broken or I don't know how to use it. The shutter stays stuck at 1/50 for the da21 no matter the lighting in Av mode. You'd think it'd do perfect exposure based on a pre-flash then on your f-stop and iso, then use those to set shutter
10-29-2010, 10:23 PM   #104
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But no! Also all other modes act weird too. TAv lets you set shutter and f-stop but iso is always your max auto allowable! So about the only way to do pop up flash is to go manual, do a test shot without flash, guess with flash and then guess again with
10-29-2010, 10:26 PM   #105
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flash compensation. They're not really guesses, I'm looking at the histogram and looking where to expose my subject. So usually that method works 99% of the time if I really can't use existing light which is so rare for me considering iso 1600 is useable.
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