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11-16-2010, 10:18 PM   #16
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It's (more than likely) called multi-segment

11-17-2010, 02:10 AM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by BigBassMan Quote
How do I put the kx in matrix mode? Didnt see an option for that in the menu .
Hit "info" and the metering mode is the centre box on the far left.
11-17-2010, 02:47 AM   #18
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Thanks guys !! We have a game Friday night, I will see how well it does with pics of the game. I appreciate all the info and sorry for all the questions .
11-21-2010, 06:30 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by twitch Quote
The 55-300 is perfectly fine for outdoor Soccer which is a sport where 300mm comes in handy (assuming they are on full sized pitches. I've got a few ideas for you though
1) use a hood (if you don't have one, buy one)
2) position yourself so you don't have to shoot towards the sun
3) use Tv mode and experiment where the shutter speed is in the range of 1/250 to 1/500. I use 1/500 for my kids sports.
4) allow ISO to go up to 3200 (use auto-ISO with a range of 200-3200)
5) take lots of shots
6) learn to hold the camera correctly, which is left hand under the lens supporting the weight of it and the camera, right hand lightly on the camera and index finger gently rolling on the shutter giving it a squeeze to take the picture.

I use AF-S mode, but other have success with AF-C. I'd experiment with both.

If you could post examples of pictures you took and what you didn't like about them that would be great.
Here is a few pics set in the settings you gave me, all shot at night . Most all of my daughters games will be at night .







11-21-2010, 07:24 PM   #20
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OK, those pictures are still under exposed. I had a look at the settings you used and what that indicates is that the conditions were significantly darker than in your first set of pictures.

The best exposed example in the first set was: 1/640, f7.1, ISO800. The first of your recent set was: 1/500, f4.5, ISO3200 and still looks under exposed by a stop or so.

These settings show the conditions were: 1/3 + 1 1/3 + 2 = 3 2/3 darker, plus another 1 for underexposure = almost 5 EV darker conditions than the first set. That is a huge difference. You are now well and truly pushing the limits of what your camera equipment is capable of. In your first set you were hampered by poor settings, but in this set you are at the limit of what even DSLRs are capable of.

OK so there's no magic here, if you want better exposed pictures you only have 3 variables to play with: ISO, aperture and shutter speed.
1) ISO, you could let it go 1 further stop to ISO6400, but at that level it will look pretty grainy. Experiment and see if you can accept the noise level, I think it would be worth it and really a must in these conditions. Cost = $0.
2) You could get another about 1 1/3 stop by buying a Tamron or Sigma 70-200 f2.8 lens. Cost $800.
3) You could get another stop by slowing your shutter speed to 1/250 but you will get more blurring in the pictures. Cost = $0.

I would try 1 & 3 first.

The only other option is flash, but I'd imagine you wouldn't be too popular if you sart setting off powerful flashes in the middle of a game.

Good luck

OK there is one other option which would give you 3 stops for $900, and that is to buy the Sigma 85mm f1.4. The difference between your 55-300 at 85mm and this lens is 3 stops, but this has numerious disadvantages: you would need to stand much closer to the action, having a fixed focal length means you would have no ability to "zoom" other than with your feet, and the depth of field would be wafer thin.

Last edited by twitch; 11-21-2010 at 08:05 PM.
11-21-2010, 08:01 PM   #21
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Thanks for the reply twitch, getting great night shots are tough . The earlier pics were late evening pics, these three were all the way dark pics. It takes great pics during the day with full light, just getting them to look good at night is a bear. I will keep playing around with the ISO, aperture and shutter speed to see if I can get them a little better. I tried to download the 1.01 update from pentax for windows and it said unable to download at this time .

Thanks again for your help !!

Last edited by BigBassMan; 11-21-2010 at 08:08 PM.
11-22-2010, 12:44 PM   #22
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just wanted to throw a "thanks" for this thread...my kids are in sports as well and the info here will come in handy!!!!!
11-22-2010, 01:41 PM   #23
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Just a little note that a sports lens doesn't always have to be a tele-zoom. For example, I almost always use fast primes when shooting basketball. Here's one with the FA 77mm f1.8 for example:


Flickr Link.

I also find the FA 50mm f1.4 is even more useful when shooting basketball, despite it's short focal length. (Alas, I can't find anything on my Flickr account to prove that at the moment...but I shoot it around f2.0 and keep the center focus point on the players' jersey numbers, and I almost never have out of focus shots...the 77mm, on the other hand, is a little trickier to use). I'm usually shooting next to newspaper photogs with their Canikon 70-200mm's and all I can say is that their arms look a lot more tired than mine at the end of a game.

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