[Viernes]

I'm buying an (obviously) used 135 3,5 to feed my Spotmatic.

What's the best way I can make sure the lens is in good shape? I mean, besides scratches an stuff like that.

Thank you all!,
Regards,
Viernes

[boriscleto]

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-lens-articles/59245-pawnshop-lense...ers-guide.html

[Ira]

I'm buying an (obviously) used 135 3,5 to feed my Spotmatic.

What's the best way I can make sure the lens is in good shape? I mean, besides scratches an stuff like that.

Thank you all!,
Regards,
Viernes

Hi!

Your name is Friday?

[Douglas_of_Sweden]

Hi!

Your name is Friday?

Well, Ira is "anger" in latin, or "September" in Basque...

[Just1MoreDave]

A lot of these were well-treated, and of course well-built, so odds are on your side. It's nice to get the original hood, caps and case. The case doesn't age that well, but I like the way the hood reverses and the cap still works.

[Douglas_of_Sweden]

I'm buying an (obviously) used 135 3,5 to feed my Spotmatic.

What's the best way I can make sure the lens is in good shape? I mean, besides scratches an stuff like that.

Thank you all!,
Regards,
Viernes

Well, besides the usual check for fungus, scratches in the glass, very much internal dust (some dust doesn't matter), oil on apperture blades, obvious resistance in focus ring etc, which version are you going to buy?

Super-Takumar 135mm f3.5 v1 has a 5:4 lens solution, an enhanced Ernostar, the same as the original Takumar 135mm, while v2 has a simple Ernostar 4:4 solution. I would say v1 is the better lens, but it is hard to distinguish between them. Same filter diameter, weight and close focus distance. If there is a 4 on the apperture ring, it is v1, but if it is no 4 it doesn't have to be v2. v1 has parts number 354 engraved, while v2 should have number 43541.
Get the dedicated hood or something as deep since it is not a SMC lens.

Looking forward to see you posting in the 135mm lens club.

[Ira]

Well, Ira is "anger" in latin, or "September" in Basque...

HAH! I've known for a long time that "Ira" means "anger" in Spanish. Pronounced "EEH-rah." But I never heard about it meaning "September" in Basque.

It's a Latin derivative of "ire," I guess.

[macTak]

My only advise is that since these are so common, you can get a Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 135/3.5 for about the same price (or a few dollars more) that the Super-Takumar, which has better coatings. I'd suggest you try for one of those.

[Douglas_of_Sweden]

A lot of these were well-treated, and of course well-built, so odds are on your side. It's nice to get the original hood, caps and case. The case doesn't age that well, but I like the way the hood reverses and the cap still works.

Yes, it is strange how some of the cases have aged just fine, while the cloth and padding just fall into dust on other. Remember when I thought I was dealing with just ordinary dust (from the outside so to say) on a case some 10 years ago and tried to clean it out with the vacum cleaner...it just said something like "ssssploshdolsplrolch" and all cloth, dust (aka former padding) and whatever remained of padding went into the vacum cleaner . Actually, I do that on purpose sometimes. There is no way to fix the original padding if it has fallen to dust, but if you get rid of it, and the leather is in good shape (which is often is), you can put in some new padding and use it, but with the dessintegrating padding covering the lens in dust everytime you use the cage....well, dust is your enemy. Just trying to make my mind up to do this with one of the brownish cages that came with the first Takumar 135mm in m42 thread. Leather is in fine shape, but the inside is a mess.

+1 about the reversed hood and cap, very userfriendly, even back in the 60's.

[Douglas_of_Sweden]

My only advise is that since these are so common, you can get a Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 135/3.5 for about the same price (or a few dollars more) that the Super-Takumar, which has better coatings. I'd suggest you try for one of those.

But then you are stuck with the 4:4 lens solution, the ordinary Ernostar which is reincarnadet three times: Super Takumar v1, SMC Takumar and finally in the form of the SMC Pentax 135 f3.5 (K-mount). The 5:4 v1 Super Takumar has the rear element replaced with a doublet to improve its performance.

[Banjo]

I'm buying an (obviously) used 135 3,5 to feed my Spotmatic.
What's the best way I can make sure the lens is in good shape? I mean, besides scratches an stuff like that.
Thank you all!,
Regards,
Viernes

Take along a small torch and look into the lens from both ends for any crud, mould (filaments, numerous specks or large splotches) and delamination (fuzzy hazy multicoloured areas).

Check the operation of the aperture ring: should be smooth and click "solidly" into detents (there may not be an intermediate detent betweeen the first and second and the penultimate and last settings).

Set the lens to "auto", the apertue to the smallest opening, and push in the aperture operating pin at the mount end of the lens. The aperture blades should work smoothly and evenly (producing a regular hexagon/pentagon, whatever) and spring back quickly when the pin is released.

Operate the focusing ring: the helicoid should operate smoothly -all the way- in either direction.

If possible, put the lens to a suitable camera body (one of their's will do) and check the infinity focus.

Does the mount operate smoothly (no damaged threads)?

Check the filter ring for dings/crossed threads.

Check the front element for dings and scratches (hold so the light reflects back at you -use the torch). The rear element in this lens (the 135) is deeply recessed, so unlikely to be damaged. (Dirt/dust on rear/front elements and/or the filter -if any- can give a false impresion, so remove the filter and clean the lens first)

Look for signs that the lens has been dropped (gouges/dings in the metal work).

The exterior of this lens will be all metal (no rubber) all through, so no problem with derioration/wear of rubber grips, but there may be wear/dings to the finish, which can often be remedied by the judicious use of a felt tipped marking pen.

Check that the Auto/Manual lever operates.

This lens originally came with a front (metal, slip on) and a rear (plastic, screw on) cap, a metal (screw on) custom lens hood and a hard leatherette case. If available, these are a plus. (Ask)

[Banjo]

... There is no way to fix the original padding if it has fallen to dust, but if you get rid of it...

You can easily replace the original lining of the case with some felt and glue from a craft shop. Then, polish the outside of the case with some shoe-polish and ..."Hey, presto!": just like new!

[abacus07]

Isn't it true that the 135mm hood works great on the 50 or 55mm because of the crop factor?

That further increases the value if you can find one in perfect shape for around $40-50.

[macTak]

Remember when I thought I was dealing with just ordinary dust (from the outside so to say) on a case some 10 years ago and tried to clean it out with the vacum cleaner...it just said something like "ssssploshdolsplrolch" and all cloth, dust (aka former padding) and whatever remained of padding went into the vacum cleaner .

Now you tell me.... Why couln't you have written this half a year ago

As to the Super-Takumar, you're right of course; I was thinking of the v2. I've never actually seen a comparison of v1 with the SMC; it would be intersting (don't tempt me, I've already got 3 135mm's, plus the M120 and M150). According to van Oosten's book, there is actually a 25 gram decrease in weight from v1 to v2. Also, the v1 had part number 43540 for a short time. Thought I'd throw that out there to complete the information, as what you've given is so useful for many.

[Viernes]

Mi real name is Gaspar, but everyone calls me Viernes (yes, that means Friday). It's a silly joke about Robinson's indian friend.