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12-10-2010, 04:27 PM   #1
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Help w/Vivitar lens on Kx

I recently purchased a Vivitar 28mm lens that is supposed to be a K-mount and fit on my Kx but I can't seem to figure out how. Is there something that I need to adapt it.

I've attached photos. Thanks for the help. This is my first venture into buying a different lens, and I hope I didn't screw up and get the wrong thing.

Sam

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12-10-2010, 04:31 PM   #2
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That's not K mount. It's M42 mount, AKA screw mount.

To be exact, the lens has a T4 mount with a T4 to M42 adapter already attached.

You need a screw mount to K mount adapter to mount the lens on to your K-x.

You can also get a TX to K mount adapter to replace the existing T4 to M42 adapter. But (1) TX to K mount adapter is somewhat difficult to find, and (2) things start getting fairly complicated because you'll need to modify either the TX to K mount adapter or the lens.
12-10-2010, 04:49 PM   #3
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Well, that's so not good. Guess back to Ebay it goes. So much for my first attempt at buying a new lens. Second times a charm right?

Thanks for your help.

Sam
12-10-2010, 05:09 PM   #4
Ira
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QuoteOriginally posted by SamD Quote
Well, that's so not good. Guess back to Ebay it goes. So much for my first attempt at buying a new lens. Second times a charm right?

Thanks for your help.

Sam
Forget eBay! Sell it here in the marketplace. How much are you looking to get for it?

But the K to M42 screw mount adapter is WELL worth buying, especially the Pentax original model, for about 40 bucks:

ALL of the lenses in my signature below connect to my K-x via this same adapter.

Don't dump the lens. Get the adapter, and buy more M42 lenses.


Last edited by Ira; 12-10-2010 at 05:16 PM.
12-11-2010, 09:15 PM   #5
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Ordered an adapter today. Can't wait to get it and try my new lens.

Thanks for the help.

Sam
12-12-2010, 02:37 AM   #6
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Note that the "37...." serial number means that it's made by Tokina for Vivitar. I have a very similar lens (i.e. Tokina-made and T4/Tx mount), but an f2.8 version, and it's probably the sharpest 28mm I own (beating my Komine-made Viv and Pentax SMC-M), but it suffers from flare.

So, don't be surprised if you see a lot of flare - just keep it well out of the way of very high contrast situations, and the sun in particular. If you bear this in mind, I reckon you'll be very pleased with the results!
12-12-2010, 05:58 AM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by SamD Quote
Ordered an adapter today. Can't wait to get it and try my new lens.

Thanks for the help.

Sam
My adapter never leaves the body!

There are some tricks to using M42 with the K-x, and here are the basic tips:

1) First and foremost, before you do anything, you have to get into your custom settings and select Use Aperture Ring--Permitted. Otherwise, you'll get a flashing F--. You'll still get the F--, because the lens can't communicate aperture, but it shouldn' flash. And aperture info isn't saved in your EXIF data, which can be an annoyance at times. The Use Aperture Ring--Permitted will stay like that by default each time you power up the camera, and that's okay.

2) When you first power up the lens, since it's a manual lens, you'll be asked to select the focal length. This is for shake reduction, and obviously, you select 28.

3) You can shoot in Av or M mode only. However, on some lenses, like most of my Taks, Av mode underexposes. You can either set an Ev compensation to use for all your shots, or use M mode, which is what I do. (But your lens might meter perfectly.)

4) In M mode (I use center weighted metering), I place the metering segment on the part of the scene I want to best expose for, hit the Ev+- button to lock in the shutter speed based on the aperture I selected (make sure your lens is set to M), and then recompose my frame. On the K-x, you don't have to use the Green button to lock in the shutter speed. The Ev+- defaults to this function in M mode.

5) When shooting in M and I want to add some compensation, like opening up a stop from the metered reading but still want to keep my selected aperture, I do this:

I want to shoot at F8, but I set my ring to 11, get my reading, then open to 8.

Yes, you won't be shooting any NASCAR with this method, but it works in many situations.

6) You will still get focus confirmation (beep and hexagon), but if you're really stopped down (to like F16), depending on the lens, you might not. There's nothing wrong with the lens or camera--I guess it's just the nature of the beast that the AF system can't handle this all that well. Also doesn't matter if you have the camera body set to manual or autofocus.

Have fun!!!


Last edited by Ira; 12-12-2010 at 06:04 AM.
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