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02-22-2011, 11:25 AM - 1 Like   #46
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QuoteOriginally posted by smc Quote
We've seen a few threads like this lately. ...
Manual focus lenses are sometimes cheaper and sometimes more expensive. ...
Many manual focus lenses will out resolve a standard DA lens. ...
I've sold my DA* 16-50 and DA*300 for better manual glass and couldn't be happier.
I think some tend to sync their preferences to certain product lines, ostensibly justified by rigorous technical details, but really relating to a love for certain looks and feels. The rationales might be expressed as:

S-M-C Takumars are better than other stuff because of the SMC coatings.
K-series are better than newer stuff because they're repackaged Taks.
M-series are better as they're built like small tanks with great optics.
A-series are better because they're easier to use on modern dSLRs.
F-series are better because they're autofocus and pretty sturdy.
FA-series are better because... well, no, they aren't any better.
DA-series are better as they're smaller, optimized for APS-C.

And of course there are the Ltd's and *'s and special pixie-dust lenses, for premium expectations at premium prices. And we can despise most manual zooms, and all non-Pentax lenses, except for the Zeiss and Leitz and Schneider glass that we drool over. And we may have other generalities for which we can supply justifications:

Old presets are better because of bokeh and subject separation.
Macro and enlarger lenses are better because of their sharpness.
SDM lenses suck because the mechanisms fail quite regularly.
Topcon lenses are better because the Japanese gov't said so.
Thorium glass is better because of the nice radioactive glow.
Et [expletive deleted] cetera.

What these all boil down to IMHO is that we've used and (dis)liked something, and/or have often read that it's great or terrible or whatever. And if we've bought it, we must defend it, else we must admit that we showed bad judgement and wasted our money and time, which we might admit if we're feeling humble. O boy, was I a moron for buying that Lil'Bigma 170-500 at retail price with no returns! [/me looks humble]

ObTopic: I keep and use my few M-series (M28/.8, M50/1.7, M50/2, M135/3.5) because they were affordable and they work good. I sold some M-series because they were surplus (other M50/1.7, M50/2) or it sucked (M40-80/2.8-4). I'll get some other M-series glass as it jumps out and bites me. In other words, just like my other lens dealings...

02-22-2011, 01:22 PM   #47
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I initially started using MF glass as a way to get more IQ bang for the buck, but I soon found myself prefering the results of the older glass, at certain focal lengths, to AF glass. These older lenses often have more character, particularly in terms of color rendition and separation. They are products of an age when lens making was more of an art than a technique, and it shows.

If I were to rank my best six lenses in terms of IQ, a couple of K series lens would top the list:

1. K 50/1.2
2. K 28/3.5
3. DA 12-24
4. DA* 300/4
5. DFA 100/2.8 WR
6. K 200/4

QuoteOriginally posted by smc Quote
Many manual focus lenses will out resolve a standard DA lens.
I suppose that depends on what is meant by "standard" DA lens. From what resolution tests I've seen, I would expect the best of the Pentax manual focus glass (primarily the K series and some A series lenses) to have slightly less resolution, especially along the borders, than the equivalent, or near-equivalent, DA primes. But most of these lenses are already so sharp that I don't believe these differences matter that much. The best of the manual focus lenses have special rendering characteristics that more than make up for whatever slight edge the DA lenses might have in resolving power.
02-22-2011, 01:29 PM   #48
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QuoteOriginally posted by Wombat Quote
I see lots of people saying "of course, you can't take action shots with those lenses" etc. Well, my darlings, "those lenses" were all there was in the earlier days and there were some great action shots taken with them. How do you get to Carnegie Hall? Practise, man.
That was just the PERFECT reply and it's so true too.
02-22-2011, 02:09 PM   #49
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They give you very good built and image quality for a small price...

... and they have this retro-feeling

02-23-2011, 09:48 AM   #50
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@RioRico, well said.
02-23-2011, 09:57 AM   #51
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QuoteOriginally posted by alan_smithee_photos Quote
@RioRico, well said.
Thank you; thank you very much!

[/me buffs fingernails on lapel]

Hit my rep, eh?
02-27-2011, 09:22 AM   #52
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I just thought I'd ask this......I was reading an article on the manual lenses...I have bought 3 of them off ebay...100mm, 50mm, and a 135mm....I found out that in order to make them work properly, after deciding on my aperture, I then needed to slightly press the shutter, then press the green button, and then make the shot for the camera to get accurate exposure. I'm a newbie, so is this the correct way you guys are doing this? or is there an alternative method? thanks for your help!
02-27-2011, 09:40 AM   #53
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QuoteOriginally posted by twix23919 Quote
I just thought I'd ask this......I was reading an article on the manual lenses...I have bought 3 of them off ebay...100mm, 50mm, and a 135mm....I found out that in order to make them work properly, after deciding on my aperture, I then needed to slightly press the shutter, then press the green button, and then make the shot for the camera to get accurate exposure. I'm a newbie, so is this the correct way you guys are doing this? or is there an alternative method? thanks for your help!
I'm not quite sure why you push the shutter button before the green button but I will go back and refresh my recollection. I would press the green button to meter and then I might half press the shutter to let the shake reduction work before taking the shot.

02-27-2011, 10:20 AM   #54
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QuoteOriginally posted by GeneV Quote
I'm not quite sure why you push the shutter button before the green button but I will go back and refresh my recollection. I would press the green button to meter and then I might half press the shutter to let the shake reduction work before taking the shot.
If your AE is tied to the AF point and the scene really varies (blacks mixed with brights,) you may want to get in partial focus before you hit the green button for better accuracy.

Twix - another neat thing - if you're shooting non-A (like the M) lenses wide-open, you can just shoot in AV mode. That only works while shooting wide-open, though, otherwise you'll need to use the green button.


.
02-27-2011, 10:27 AM   #55
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Yeah, I was kinda hoping to have only one step, but I guess that's not gonna happen huh!
02-27-2011, 10:33 AM   #56
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QuoteOriginally posted by twix23919 Quote
Yeah, I was kinda hoping to have only one step, but I guess that's not gonna happen huh!
Usually you'll find that you only need to meter using the green button once, and then you can take a series of shots without metering again as long as the lighting has not changed, or you can slightly tweak exposure with a dial (SS or Aperture) if need be. Or, if you're shooting wide-open, as I've said, switch to AV mode for the series.
02-27-2011, 10:50 AM   #57
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Not sure if this has been said already, but the Ms are small!
Look how small he 85/2 is, or the 135/3.5.

And of course they are very cheap. You can get an M 50/1.4 for 60-70 €. For that price this is such a fantastic lens!

And I simply like handling them. They feel good.
02-27-2011, 12:40 PM   #58
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QuoteOriginally posted by blende8 Quote
Not sure if this has been said already, but the Ms are small!
Look how small he 85/2 is, or the 135/3.5.

And of course they are very cheap. You can get an M 50/1.4 for 60-70 €. For that price this is such a fantastic lens!

And I simply like handling them. They feel good.
I do love the compact size too. I'll add to that list the M35/2, M120/2.8 (even smaller than the 135), and M150/3.5. They really did do a great job shrinking those tele lenses--I just love the light weight and compactness of my M120. Another one deserving mention is the M50/4, which is about the smallest lens you'll find with a well-shaded front element that doesn't thus need a hood (which would add additional length). Some of the Takumars are quite compact as well.
02-28-2011, 03:01 AM   #59
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QuoteOriginally posted by blende8 Quote
Not sure if this has been said already, but the Ms are small!
Look how small he 85/2 is, or the 135/3.5.

And of course they are very cheap. You can get an M 50/1.4 for 60-70 €. For that price this is such a fantastic lens!

And I simply like handling them. They feel good.
They used to be cheap and no longer that cheap anymore

Just looking at the recent going prices for the Takumar drives me crazy...
02-28-2011, 03:27 PM   #60
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cheap/expensive is irrelevant as decent lenses dont lose value

no photo can ever be taken again, thanks to the nature of time, so price ought to be irrelevant, particularly given my first point

i think the moderate speed M primes offer a great mix of image quality (irrespective of price), manual focus feel and compactness

just my 2c
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