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02-27-2011, 06:36 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Abstract Quote
Hmm you have a point, I guess I was viewing it in the sense that she has a K-r that is pretty good with low light/ISO.
Low light/high iso capabilitie's or not the 18-135 is still far too slow, you want at least f/2.8 for swallow depth of feild abiltiy so you can isolate your subjects for maxium effect.

Last edited by TOUGEFC; 02-27-2011 at 06:43 AM.
02-27-2011, 08:42 AM   #17
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My wedding/event rig (not paid, but often designated) is one body with 17-70 and another with the FA77 or K135/F2.5. I have the DA12-24 or DA15 along these days for some special situations, though it is not critical. I find that the times when I need to isloate are relatively few and require something longer than the 50mm/2.8 end of a fast, wide zoom. That is where the FA77 or K135 come in. The DA17-70 rig gets most of the use overall, though, but I think I could use the 18-135 as well. A friend uses that lens as her primary event lens on another brand of camera. I use flash with the zoom, so the max aperture is only an issue for isolating subjects.

Last edited by GeneV; 02-27-2011 at 08:51 AM.
02-27-2011, 12:52 PM   #18

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Batman and Robin 16-50-135

Should you really want another prime? The 21 mm is calling you.
02-27-2011, 01:34 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by jusfun21 Quote
I want to do weddings and portraits photography including headshots.
If you want to do this professionally as the main wedding photographer, then you need a zoom and a backup body. You could have a 16-50/2.8 (main lens) on one camera and a 50-135/2.8 (for closeups) on the other. This way you don't need to mount/unmount lenses.

If you're doing this for fun, then what you have is good enough and you can waste some moments while changing lenses because no one depends on you to cover the event. Or you can just get the Tamron SP 17-50/2.8 which is a great zoom and is in the same ballpark as the 35mm macro. And it gets you closer to the setup I outlined above. You could use this as your main lens.

I like using primes, but I do this for fun. If I had to earn my money, I'd have to use zooms, because I couldn't afford to waste time on location changing lenses.

02-27-2011, 09:40 PM   #20
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You have a lot of good advice already ... now go on line and check out what all the Pro wedding shooters are using, then apply that knowledge to the lenses available for your Pentax and from the suggestions given here. Good luck !
02-28-2011, 02:30 AM   #21
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Have you 'done' many weddings yet? If not, some strong advice: DON'T START! Not on your own. Sign on (for free) with an established wedding pro, as an intern / second / gopher / whatever, and see how it's done. A brief apprenticeship, as it were. The learn-as-you-go method can be disastrous. (It was for me, alas.)

Without some experience, the 'best' gear will do you little good. Gain some background, and you can do wonders with rather little. We've heard here of at least one successful wedding pro who uses just a K20, a DA18-55, and a big flash. That's a bit too minimal for me, but shows that it CAN be done. Good luck!
02-28-2011, 02:56 PM   #22
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Abstract I'm a dude!!!
02-28-2011, 04:35 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by jusfun21 Quote
Abstract I'm a dude!!!
Haha...Sorry not sure why I even put a he or she, must have been in a strange mood.


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