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04-06-2011, 03:15 AM   #16
Ira
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QuoteOriginally posted by Canada_Rockies Quote
Ira, I turned on the "blinkies" and use them instead of the histogram.
What's a blinkie? Do you mean full manual metering mode prior to pulling the trigger?

04-06-2011, 04:48 AM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by pacerr Quote
There's a lot to be learned by simply carrying a pocket-able LM around with you and discretely challenging yourself to estimate exposures for the situations you encounter in your daily activities. Over time you build up pre-set exposure scenarios similar to what was used by the famous documentary/news shooters of the pre-TTL metering era.
I also have an app giving me suggested exposure settings for various shooting situations. I confess I never used it on the field, the meter on the K20D is reliable enough for me (and I know how to work with its limitations, few as they are). But I've used the app as a teaching tool sometimes.

QuoteOriginally posted by NaClH2O Quote
One question, would a light meter solve the metering problems the K**D's have with K and M lenses? It seems to me that that would be the ideal situation for an external meter.
This occurs only infrequently, and only with quite small apertures, from my experience. You ought to be able to compensate accordingly, and chimp to confirm your results.
04-06-2011, 07:55 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ira Quote
What's a blinkie? Do you mean full manual metering mode prior to pulling the trigger?
In the menus you have the option to have the rear LCD blink red on overexposed highlights with no detail, and also to blink yellow on underexposed areas with no detail. On my K10d, it is in the Playback menu.

[Playback] > [Bright/Dark Area] > [On/Off]

I find this a help.
04-06-2011, 08:38 PM   #19
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Blinkies can be difficult to see when they affect only small areas, especially outside. Usually you'll wind up with some blinkies no matter what you do, with high contrast scenes. At least I do with my k100/200 cameras. I just try to minimize blinkies, and generally favor eliminating highlight blinkies, accepting shadow blinkies as necessary.

I've had several external meters, in the film days, but never learned how to use the ones I had effectively enough to achieve anything beyond what I could do with in-camera meters. With the exception of meters with viewing capability, like the Pentax spot meters, you can't tell exactly what the meter is reading. I also had a sekonic incident meter, but even when I could keep the dome attached, the results were just not that satisfying.

Paul

04-06-2011, 09:29 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by tibbitts Quote
Blinkies can be difficult to see when they affect only small areas, especially outside. Usually you'll wind up with some blinkies no matter what you do, with high contrast scenes. At least I do with my k100/200 cameras. I just try to minimize blinkies, and generally favor eliminating highlight blinkies, accepting shadow blinkies as necessary.
Paul
I generally accept point source (size of a dot) blinkies, even in highlight areas. As the LCD display is based on the JPG rendering, and I use RAW exclusively, the extra stop or so on each end of the dynamic range reduces the over/under exposure to levels that cause no problems. Specular highlights are a normal situation whenever reflective surfaces are in the image, or when the sun is there. In difficult cases, I will bracket so that I have images to work with in post processing.
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