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04-11-2011, 01:55 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Pentaxor Quote
why would he still need a soft focus filter when you can do that during post-processing. atleast the OP can adjust the intensity of the softness that he wanted on the image. if he really wants a lens with a kind of soft-focus effect, the J-9 would be a great alternative.
If I did it in processing, what would I do in aperture or lightroom? Just turn down the sharpness?

04-11-2011, 02:05 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by justtakingpics Quote
If I did it in processing, what would I do in aperture or lightroom? Just turn down the sharpness?
If you use Lightroom, there's a slider for "Clarity" just above "vibrance" and "saturation."

Reducing the clarity reduces local contrast though, so it might make the image look a little more dull. But I find it gives a similar effect to that of a dedicated soft-focus lens.

Turning sharpening off will obviously help too.

You could also use the brush tool to paint over the area you want to affect and turn down the sharpening and clarity for that area only.

Noise reduction also has softening as a side effect.
04-11-2011, 02:18 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by justtakingpics Quote
One that I could use professionally (one day) for outdoor portraits? It would be the only lens that I'd have because I would have to sell all my other ones to get it.
Portrait is not only one lens. A painter uses many sizes. You already have the lenses: 28-70, 70-200, 50f1.4, 55f1.8, 135f3.5, and perhaps 35f3.5. You may need flashes/umbrellas/stands/triggers, other means to control light.

My most used ranges are 50/55/70-200/135 and 77/85/100.

Indoor range: 50-85, small rooms: 28/35/50/55. 50/55 at f1.4-f2.8 deliver beautiful bokeh.
Outdoor range: 70-200/135. The 135 at f5.6 is sharp sharp and beautiful bokeh.

Manual lenses are not hard to use at all. They do require some training, but after 2000 shots in various conditions you will master MF.

I try to do right out from the camera and save time on PP.
04-11-2011, 03:15 PM   #19
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there you go. farfisa pretty much answered the OP's inquiry regarding what he needs to do to show a soft-focus effect. and yes, NR does the same thing as well. aside from what is provided by Lightroom or Adobe, there are plugins that do similar things like Niks, TopazLabs, Imagenomics, etc... all of which gives outstanding results but I would prefer TopazLabs due to familiarity of the program and less complications.

04-11-2011, 08:06 PM   #20
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I don't think DA 70 is a good portrait lens.
04-12-2011, 03:55 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by Pentaxor Quote
why would he still need a soft focus filter when you can do that during post-processing.
With that statement, several assumptions are made:

1. OP only wishes to shoot digital and will never shoot film.
2. That OP owns expensive photo editing software such as photoshop.
3. That OP has the computer with the grunt to run such software smoothly and a colour calibrated monitor.
4. That OP has the skillsets to do the tasks required.
5. That said tasks are repeatable processes, instead of requiring an artistry and judgement.
6. That OP has the time and inclination to perform said creative tasks repetitively.

Those assumptions may be true in entirety or part varying from person to person, however they still remain risks that the resultant work will not match the expectations of the person that commissioned the portrait. The risks can be avoided to quite some degree by using a "soft" lens or a soft filter.
04-12-2011, 04:59 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by Pentaxor Quote
why would he still need a soft focus filter when you can do that during post-processing. atleast the OP can adjust the intensity of the softness that he wanted on the image. if he really wants a lens with a kind of soft-focus effect, the J-9 would be a great alternative.
Perhaps he did not know he could do that? I dunno. He could do it many ways but did not have to sell his entire lens kit to get a DA 70.
04-12-2011, 06:27 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by selar Quote
With that statement, several assumptions are made:

1. OP only wishes to shoot digital and will never shoot film.
2. That OP owns expensive photo editing software such as photoshop.
3. That OP has the computer with the grunt to run such software smoothly and a colour calibrated monitor.
4. That OP has the skillsets to do the tasks required.
5. That said tasks are repeatable processes, instead of requiring an artistry and judgement.
6. That OP has the time and inclination to perform said creative tasks repetitively.

Those assumptions may be true in entirety or part varying from person to person, however they still remain risks that the resultant work will not match the expectations of the person that commissioned the portrait. The risks can be avoided to quite some degree by using a "soft" lens or a soft filter.
All those are true about me. All I really wanted was a super portrait lens to help me stop fiddling with what I have so I can take the picture. Mostly I don't like guessing the right shutter speed all the time and imagined the FA 77 or DA 70 would allow me to make my setting changes easier, catch a more natural action (not having to have all hold still all the time while I focus), and look great.

Right now, and it's not that it's super hard or anything, but I focus with my confirmation, turn the aperture ring to get my desired stop/dof, and then take several shots until I get a good histogram and what appears to be okay on the lcd. I'm getting a little frustrated because I'll take about 50 shots and only six are good ones (I am using aperture at the moment, if that matters.)

I don't know why but I thought the lens might change some of the work for the better.

04-12-2011, 08:31 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by selar Quote
With that statement, several assumptions are made:

1. OP only wishes to shoot digital and will never shoot film.
Good point, but given he's asking bout an APS-C lens, that seems like a given. It's probably also true for 99% of the poeple posting here.

QuoteQuote:
2. That OP owns expensive photo editing software such as photoshop.
Not at all. There are much less expensive packages - including free ones - that would be perfectly sufficient.

QuoteQuote:
3. That OP has the computer with the grunt to run such software smoothly and a colour calibrated monitor.
Any computer made in the last 5-7 years should be good enough. And why would you need to calibrate your monitor just to soften an image?

QuoteQuote:
4. That OP has the skillsets to do the tasks required.
Or, like 99.99% of the population, is intelligent enough to learn the skills in a few minutes.

QuoteQuote:
Those assumptions may be true in entirety or part varying from person to person, however they still remain risks that the resultant work will not match the expectations of the person that commissioned the portrait. The risks can be avoided to quite some degree by using a "soft" lens or a soft filter.
Right, and then you introduce whole new set of variables, like whether the effect is precisely the right one. If taking two seconds to snap on a filter is good enough, surely taking two seconds to run a basic "soften" preset in PP is also good enough.
04-12-2011, 10:47 AM   #25
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Lighting is much more important than lens quality for portraiture. If I was starting a photo business on a budget, I would use the kit lenses, and spend money on flashes and flash modifiers instead.
04-12-2011, 11:23 AM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by justtakingpics Quote
All those are true about me. All I really wanted was a super portrait lens to help me stop fiddling with what I have so I can take the picture. Mostly I don't like guessing the right shutter speed all the time and imagined the FA 77 or DA 70 would allow me to make my setting changes easier, catch a more natural action (not having to have all hold still all the time while I focus), and look great.

Right now, and it's not that it's super hard or anything, but I focus with my confirmation, turn the aperture ring to get my desired stop/dof, and then take several shots until I get a good histogram and what appears to be okay on the lcd. I'm getting a little frustrated because I'll take about 50 shots and only six are good ones (I am using aperture at the moment, if that matters.)

I don't know why but I thought the lens might change some of the work for the better.
Perhaps try a Pentax A 50mm F2.0. Cheap and it will better communicate with the camera. All you have to do is focus. Check out a good book on portrait photography too.
04-12-2011, 03:19 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by EricT Quote
Lighting is much more important than lens quality for portraiture. If I was starting a photo business on a budget, I would use the kit lenses, and spend money on flashes and flash modifiers instead.
That is exactly what I am putting my money into at the moment. I thought lenses and bodies were difficult. There are tons of lighting "things."
04-13-2011, 02:17 AM   #28
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Maybe these will help
all wide open
the couple were much more satisfied with those photos than the ones they paid for -to a pro wedding photog-







04-13-2011, 02:28 AM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by apemen Quote
Maybe these will help
all wide open
the couple were much more satisfied with those photos than the ones they paid for -to a pro wedding photog-
Great shots!
04-13-2011, 07:43 AM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by apemen Quote
Maybe these will help
all wide open
the couple were much more satisfied with those photos than the ones they paid for -to a pro wedding photog-






are these the DA 70?
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