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05-21-2011, 08:48 PM   #31
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With the K20D, I was very pragmatic. I have a Sigma 18-50 f2.8 zoom and it might as well have been bolted on for most shots around the house, and outside it was Bigma. But since I got the K-5, I've been having a lot more fun shooting with the FA35 f2, the 50 1.4, the 100 f2.8, my Tamron SP 180 f2.5 (Adaptall 2). The only zoom I've bolted on it recently was my 50-135 for some portraits of my daughter.

05-21-2011, 11:11 PM   #32
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For me, "best" often equals "most versatile", and in that case it's my DA18-250 lens. Wide focal length, plus the "macro" function comes in handy as well. Now that LR has the lens correction profiles, I'm really loving this lens.

Of course, today the "best" lens was the DA*200 since I was shooting my daughter's soccer game. That's the perfect focal length for the game, and the shallow depth of field helps isolate the players.

05-22-2011, 01:53 AM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by McDunk Quote
Best All-around Lens?
That'll be the 8mm to 1200mm f1.2 then.

I'm not even a zoom man.
05-22-2011, 03:12 AM   #34
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oi oi more answers ha ha ^^ !

Marc Sabatella : Thansk for you answer. I know the 18-55 is a good lens , but some shoots that I take the sharpness is not what I want, the fotos gets all blury or how you could say it.
And yeah I know, Im reading books and some sites about photo , And when im out taking photos my friend allways follows me and he knows alot so I'm Learning from him atm.

But Ive read alot about the 35mm now and I thnk I will get satisfied with it. Otherwise I can refundit.


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Shooted with the 18-55 and I can say its good in some shoots but not What I really wana shoot its not that "good"

+ I know there is some really good lenses out there but I dont wana spend like 600 bucks on an Lens when Im new to shooting. So the DA 35mm should suit me fine atm.
But thanks anyway


05-22-2011, 08:52 AM   #35
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I've looked at two of your photos. I agree with Marc, the problem is not your lens, it's your technique. Your first image, the leaf is soft because you shot it at f5.6, 1/30s, ISO 100. Your shutter speed is too low, the normal recommendation would be 1/85s minimum for this photo. You can cheat that with Shake Reduction, but you have to allow time for the SR to kick in (little green hand at the bottom of the viewfinder). At a close focus distance like this, Shake Reduction is not as effective, so it's best to keep the shutter speed up. Wind needs to be considered when shooting vegetation. High shutter speeds are needed to freeze the subject. Also at close focus, depth of field is very shallow, so a smaller aperture is needed if you want the whole leaf in focus. Better technique would be; boost the ISO, add light, or use a tripod. The photo is underexposed and your flat settings for saturation, contrast and sharpness are not helping. Even given the mistakes you made in exposing, the photo can be improved. Try Landscape mode for a photo like this if you don't want to adjust it in post-processing.

Here's your original:

(img removed)

Here's what I did in two minutes with Picasa (I'll take this down after you've had a look):

(img removed)

Your second photo with the trees and sky is a typical novice error. You exposed for the sky, so the trees are severely underexposed. A new lens will look the same with this exposure. You need to learn about the metering modes on the camera and how to use them. The work around would be to use Ev compensation to arrive at a compromise between light and dark. Boosting the mid-tones in post processing is very useful for this scene.

You have some work to do. Have fun learning, it's worthwhile and not that difficult.

Last edited by audiobomber; 05-24-2011 at 06:33 AM. Reason: wide image
05-22-2011, 11:00 AM   #36
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Thanks.

I'm gonna youtube some guides from now on. to get an better understanding and when my new Lens gets here im ready and got more information about shutter / aperture

Last edited by McDunk; 05-22-2011 at 11:48 AM.
05-22-2011, 11:24 AM   #37
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I would say, the best all round lens is your favorite lens, that sit's 99% on your camera. and just comes off, when you are in a situation, that you really need another lens.
05-22-2011, 11:53 AM   #38
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QuoteOriginally posted by McDunk Quote
[lang=sv]Thanks audiobomber.

That was really helpful. Well yeah I know that its not my lens, but I want an prime lens. Ive tryed an Ziess on my friends 550d and I like taking photos with it.


And aboout shake reduction, I do own an Tripod and I use it frequently, some people say Shake reduction should not be used if you have one, Is that true?
I'm sure you'll love the DA 35mm. I don't have one but I have the FA 35 that it's based on and it's a super lens. Excellent choice for general purpose.

Yes, shake reduction needs to be turned off when using a tripod. When you can, use the 2s delay shutter release, which eliminates mirror slap, allows the camera time to settle after you press, and automatically disables SR.

05-22-2011, 11:56 AM   #39
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QuoteOriginally posted by audiobomber Quote
I'm sure you'll love the DA 35mm. I don't have one but I have the FA 35 that it's based on and it's a super lens. Good choice.

Yes, shake reduction needs to be turned off when using a tripod. When you can, use the 2s delay shutter release, which eliminates mirror slap, allows the camera time to settle after you press, and automatically disables SR.
Thanks , Never tought about it.

Gonna do some research and show what I learned, someday ha ha

Last edited by McDunk; 05-22-2011 at 12:06 PM.
05-22-2011, 12:03 PM   #40
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QuoteOriginally posted by McDunk Quote
When you mean 2s delay shutter you mean like, When I press the button It takes 2 seconds for the camera to take the photo ?

And when I do that it should disable the SR?
Yes, exactly. With the K-x, hit "up" on the scroll control to get into Drive Mode and select 2s. Of course you only use this mode with a tripod.
05-22-2011, 12:13 PM   #41
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Okok, So I should allmost use that on every photo I take if its not an moving target ?

And what Ive learned, Should I priotise aperture or shutter on close up photos? since the bigger aperture gives better sharpness on the picture or am I wrong now ?

Since they said that when you are taking landscape pictures you should use Tv mode and have around 16+ Aperture.
05-22-2011, 12:36 PM   #42
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QuoteOriginally posted by McDunk Quote
And what Ive learned, Should I priotise aperture or shutter on close up photos? since the bigger aperture gives better sharpness on the picture or am I wrong now ?

Since they said that when you are taking landscape pictures you should use Tv mode and have around 16+ Aperture.
Aperture is used as a creative tool. Sometimes you want to blur the background, so you use a wide aperture, but the widest aperture is never the sharpest. Depending on the lens you need to stop down from 1 to 3 stops for maximum sharpness. Have a look at the MTF numbers at Photozone for your specific lenses.

You always need to watch shutter speed. Soft photos are not pleasant to look at. Change the ISO when you aren't using a tripod and need greater sensitivity to optimize the other two.

F/16 is fine for a full-frame camera but is not generally recommended for landscapes with APS-C cameras due to loss of sharpness. I never go beyond f11 for landscapes and often prefer a wider aperture.
05-22-2011, 12:44 PM   #43
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No, I think that you may misunderstand aperture in taking Macro photos.

For macro, smaller apertures give you better sharpness and depth. Remember in Macro shooting a very short distance (1/2 inch or 1 inch for example) can make a big difference in Depth of Focus.

Note that it works in reverse, the higher the number the smaller the aperture.

F16 is a much smaller aperture than F3.6, for example.

Trust this helps you, and good luck with your shooting.
05-22-2011, 12:45 PM   #44
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QuoteOriginally posted by audiobomber Quote
Aperture is used as a creative tool. Sometimes you want to blur the background, so you use a wide aperture, but the widest aperture is never the sharpest. Depending on the lens you need to stop down from 1 to 3 stops for maximum sharpness. Have a look at the MTF numbers at Photozone for your specific lenses.

You always need to watch shutter speed. Soft photos are not pleasant to look at. Change the ISO when you aren't using a tripod and need greater sensitivity to optimize the other two.

F/16 is fine for a full-frame camera but is not generally recommended for landscapes with APS-C cameras due to loss of sharpness. I never go beyond f11 for landscapes and often prefer a wider aperture.
]Thanks for the info, but say for an example, If I need to use F11 and Im using Tv mode and I need to change the shutter speed, Do i need to change mode then to manual or ?

and about MTF that you said, It says the 35mm best around F3.2 tp 5.6 . "here's a slight increase in performance towards f/3.2 but generally the characteristic remains more or less constant between f/3.2 and f/5.6. Diffraction is starting to have a slight impact at f/8 and a little more so at f/11 but even so these settings remain perfectly usable." If I'm not wrong now, But thats what It says.
05-22-2011, 02:28 PM   #45
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QuoteOriginally posted by McDunk Quote
And what Ive learned, Should I priotise aperture or shutter on close up photos? since the bigger aperture gives better sharpness on the picture or am I wrong now ?

Since they said that when you are taking landscape pictures you should use Tv mode and have around 16+ Aperture.
It's never that simple. f/16 doesn't give you more sharpness than, say f/8 - it's actually *less* sharpness. But it does give more DOF, which is sometimes nice in landscape photos.

As for what to prioritize - aperture or shutter speed - it's up to you to figure out the best combination *for any given shot*. But the general rule of thumb is this: when handholding, if you don't get a shutter speed of close to 1 / focal_length, then you need to *either* increase ISO or aperture (meaning lower f-number) to get the shutter speed up, otherwise you'll likely get blur from camera shake and subject motion. SR helps some with the former, but can't help with the latter. But only you can decide if the penalty in terms of noise (from turning up ISO) or shallow DOF (from opening up the aperture) is worth it *to you*, *for thatparticular shot*. There is no one-size-fits-all answer.

And as for what mode to shoot in, that's also completely up to you. You can always get the exact same results in any mode; it's just a matter of hat buttons you have to push to get the results you desire. More important thn hat mode you are in is aclear notion of the results themselves. without that, *no* mode will help - just as a new lens won't.
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