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05-21-2011, 12:09 AM   #16
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You can't get everything in focus at f/2.4... Stop the lens down to get more depth of field and use tripod because your shutter speed will be slow. And that's it.

05-21-2011, 09:05 AM   #17
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Your technique is woeful, for night time shots you really need to consider a tripod. Both of these are very underexposed.

To troubleshoot your lens, try daytime shots to eliminate any lense issues.
05-21-2011, 11:03 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by snoop21 Quote
it is not a tripod shot I never carry one and dont want,

I am not sure to understand : to make the boat focused I have to focus to infinity or closer to me, lets say on the boardwalk ?
If you want the boat in focus, you need to focus on the boat. DOF at f/2.4 is very shallow. You might want to get a book on photography to explain how aperture, shutter speed, ISO, and DOF all relate to each other.
05-21-2011, 12:33 PM   #19
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Yet another Problem Lies Behind the Viewfinder issue...

05-21-2011, 12:59 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by creampuff Quote
Yet another Problem Lies Behind the Viewfinder issue...
A telltale sign is when people complain about lenses being soft.
05-21-2011, 01:06 PM   #21
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What I saw from your pictures was as mentioned before, but for example last shot, whit boat had sharp windows, and metal parts shined well...rest of boat was underexposed. That boat was at least 15 meters a way from that wall behind. I suppose, if you made it like f/5.6 it would have been better. would have to crank up ISO thou or use tripod. Otherwise it looks sharp enough.
05-21-2011, 03:30 PM   #22
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Thank you all for your knowledge, for some of you much bigger than mine..... but I learn a lot on this forum

but finally today I tested the lens in daylight at f2.4, the problem still remains ( having before check the AF from the camera, the viewfinder, and added a hood), so

I decided to refund it because of all these reasons that are objective and/or personal :

-all lenses are good stopped down so why buy a 2.4, if 2.4 is impossible to use, particularly in low light...
-the AF seems to work with the lens (and fast) but is in fact wrong (doesn't appear on the 16-45 same places same conditions) - night or day
-In my mind the AF should work in the conditions tested ( important light in city streets - not extreme low light) and I used spot as always
-huge purple fringing in sunlight or clear colours
-colours not impressive
-in my opinion the kit lens is even better

-still the lens is quite nice for portaits (focus ok, nice depth) or close subjects

but I would be again interested in a large aperture lens AF I could use to avoid tripod/very high ISO/MF and get good/acceptable nigh landscapes/street views, if anybody has one to recommend with experience ?

Last edited by snoop21; 05-21-2011 at 03:36 PM.
05-21-2011, 03:36 PM   #23
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FA 50mm f1.4 is soft at f1.4, but will do the job.

05-21-2011, 03:41 PM   #24
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I thought about that one but 50mm is a little long for my use on landscapes
do some of you have comments on the sigma 30mm 1.4 or 28mm 1.8 ?
05-21-2011, 09:22 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by snoop21 Quote
but finally today I tested the lens in daylight at f2.4, the problem still remains ( having before check the AF from the camera, the viewfinder, and added a hood), so
I recommend posting those pictures. I'm betting you're still not getting just how shallow the DOF is, and are looking for sharpness in areas that *cannot* be sharp at that aperture because they aren't in the focus zone. Sharpness in the focus zone at f/2.4 should be quite good.

QuoteQuote:
-all lenses are good stopped down so why buy a 2.4, if 2.4 is impossible to use, particularly in low light...
it's not impossible. You just have to accept that only a little of the picture will be in focus, but that little bit should be quite sharp. You just have to be careful to make sure that the camera focuses where you want; often MF is a better idea.

QuoteQuote:
but I would be again interested in a large aperture lens AF I could use to avoid tripod/very high ISO/MF and get good/acceptable nigh landscapes/street views, if anybody has one to recommend with experience ?
Every single lens with large aperture will have shallow DOF and therefore appear soft outside the focus zone, and it will be crucial with all of them to focus accurately. There is no lens that will solve those problems for you.
05-21-2011, 11:07 PM   #26
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It sounds like you got yourself a bad copy of the lens, so I'm pleased you got a refund.

I think probably if you were to get a decent copy of the lens, you'd be pleased (reviews/tests of the 35/2.4 are pretty good).

As for AF, you'll usually get consistent focus accuracy whatever lens you have on your camera, BUT it seems that the AF mechanism needs to know what lens is being used, which implies that each lens has a slightly different effect on the AF mechanism (I don't know why!). There have occasionally been issues with front and back focusing, so it's still possible (but I think unlikely) that it is, in effect, a lens/camera compatibility issue.

As for AF in low light conditions, obviously the AF mechanism needs sufficient light (and contrast) to be able to focus accurately (or at all), just as the human eye would need it. But if you are saying that your other lenses will focus properly with other lenses in your preferred light conditions, then so should the 35/2.4 (if you were to get a decent copy).
05-22-2011, 09:07 AM   #27
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just a bit of info sharing.


QuoteOriginally posted by snoop21 Quote
-all lenses are good stopped down so why buy a 2.4, if 2.4 is impossible to use, particularly in low light...
why buy a f2.4? because of the extra stop used for exposure and shallow DOF. it is not impossible to use.it is just the way lenses are.


QuoteQuote:
but I would be again interested in a large aperture lens AF I could use to avoid tripod/very high ISO/MF and get good/acceptable nigh landscapes/street views, if anybody has one to recommend with experience ?
sorry but that would be very difficult for your purpose. AF and very large aperture is almost pointless for night landscapes and street views especially if you want to get everything in focus. you still have to stop down to get the good results that you wanted, boost ISO depending on the exposure that you needed, use a tripod to avoid camera shake and do long exposures. doing HDR with long exposures would give you the best results if that is the one you are after.
05-22-2011, 09:37 AM   #28
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i have this DA(L) 35mm and if you turn the ring like a clock, to the end, you will not focus at infinity but just beyond : So nothing will be clear.

During night, use a tripod, do the focus manually, and don't shoot at F2.4, between f5.6 and f8, this lense is at its best.
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