Prime lens setup

egordon99 · 11-15-2007, 06:20 AM

Yep, you'd have to go Auto with your 540. I would recommend you FOCUS (and compose) first, then stop down for the meter reading (AE-lock button) Might make a difference, might not...

dugrant153 · 11-18-2007, 05:27 PM

well I have started up my prime setup (uh oh!). I bought the Pentax SMC-M 28mm F2.8 lens, and it is SWEET! only problems, of course, is the odd metering processing. Sometimes it's okay, sometimse I have to press that AE-L button to have it meter accordingly. and yeah, egordon99, sometiems it makes a difference, sometimes it doesnt.

So my setup so far is:

Pentax SMC-M 28mm F2.8 (sharp lens! but needs a lens hood)
Pentax SMC-DA 40mm Limited F2.8

I'm waiting for the M 50mm F1.7 to come in (delayed shipment), and am eyeing an SMC-M 135mm F3.5 (hunting for an F2.8 if possible). Any other suggestions for lenses?

Also, on a side note, I find that when I use flash with the M lens, the flash is not controlled (well duh, it's a manual lens) and I end up getting pictures of pure white. Could someone give me a quick primer on how to set the flash so I don't always blow out pictures with my old manual lenses?

egordon99 · 11-18-2007, 05:41 PM

Like I said above, use your 540 in AUTO mode. Press the mode button until it reads "Auto"
Then make sure that the ISO and f-stop match between the camera and the flash.

dugrant153 · 11-19-2007, 12:57 AM

oops! had the flash on TTL mode. it works! awesome!!
definitely quite a few more steps than just P-TTL pointing and shooting. Definitely feels more 'involved'.

Anyone have the Pentax SMC-M 135mm F3.5? I'm just wondering how it compares to the DA 55-200mm, as the F stop at 135mm on that zoom is about F4.5... wondering if the image quality is that much different.

Last edited by dugrant153; 11-19-2007 at 01:06 AM.

richard64 · 11-19-2007, 06:41 AM

Originally posted by dugrant153

I'm thinking of going the M lens route, after reading the replies to this thread (I'm possibly eyeing an M200/4 ... haha).

well if you're going to bid for one on ebay let me know, so we don't get to bid against each other!

Originally posted by dugrant153

With an M lens, you have to:
1) Set aperature manually
2) Meter using the AE-L lock function (so spot the subject, and press AE-L button to meter properly?)
3) Focus manually, then take shot. (all in that order?)

Yes, but you can also use Av mode, which saves you from using the AE-L button. If you have a non-M (eg an M42) then you have to stop down meter:

1) focus wide open
2) stop down and meter

For various obscure reasons the metering for M42 lenses are usually out by about 2EV, so you have to apply exposure compensation or (if in M) alter the shutter speed given by the AE-L button.

Originally posted by dugrant153

Quite a few extra steps from getting a DA and letting it do all the work for ya... but after having the DA lose a few shots due to focusing on the wrong subject, I think doing things more manually isn't so bad after all!

Ah but what about losing quite a few shots because the DA lens is not as good as old glass? ;-)

Richard

Nesster · 11-19-2007, 07:40 AM

Just this morning I was thinking of how happy I am especially on the mf/film side with my Program Plus: smc-a 28/2.8, Tamron SP 90/2.5, the Tamron 2x, and the 43 Limited. Just about perfect (adding in the Tamron SP 35-80 2.8-3.8 for good measure)....

Only the 43 is auto focus, but the Tamron 90 is beautiful to focus with the K100D.

Big Dawg · 11-19-2007, 09:46 AM

Primes are great if you have an Idea of the distance range you will be shooting in. zooms are great general walk-about lens when you may be shooting at closeup or far away during the walk. I have these and will be improving the quality of some of them over time....though the ones I have do a pretty good job as is. I don't like the auto-anything very much and still do most in manual mode as that is where I'm most comfortable.
24mm
28mm
35mm
50mm
55mm
70mm
90mm
105mm macro
135mm
150mm
200mm
300mm
400mm

But I could get by on the
28mm
50mm
105mm macro
135mm
200mm
300mm

Dawg

dugrant153 · 11-19-2007, 10:53 AM

Quote:

But I could get by on the
28mm
50mm
105mm macro
135mm
200mm
300mm

Dawg

I can probably get by with something like that, although could probably do without the 300mm for now. That's more birdwatching range, isn't it?

Quote:

Yes, but you can also use Av mode, which saves you from using the AE-L button. If you have a non-M (eg an M42) then you have to stop down meter:

1) focus wide open
2) stop down and meter

For various obscure reasons the metering for M42 lenses are usually out by about 2EV, so you have to apply exposure compensation or (if in M) alter the shutter speed given by the AE-L button.

What?! You mean I've been pressing the AE-L button this while time while Av mode... and I didn't have to? Haha... my bad! or maybe my good... now I know how to meter manually!!

Quote:

Ah but what about losing quite a few shots because the DA lens is not as good as old glass? ;-)

You know, strangely enough, the M 28mm F2.8 took some amazing shots... absolutely amazing. Super sharp landscape pictures and family pictures, even close up portraits! The DA is a great lens, but I notice that there's less 'feel' to it when manual focusing so it's hard to manually focus properly. There's a bit more of a greasy resistance on the M lens, something that makes manual focusing much more accurate and enjoyable, not to mention that it takes more turning to go from one end of the focus to the other.

I'd still use the DA limited pancake lens when things get hairy and the autofocus is really needed (difficult to manual focus on super speedy zebra danio fish!), if I need P-TTL flash, or even if I just need the focal length. Plus, the size of the lens means less torsional force on my hand and wrist (easier on the hands). It's a great lens that can take some really awesome pictures. Plus, it's fun when other photographers ask 'where's your lens?' and you point out it's right there on the camera.
But I'm starting to manually focus on everything as complex focusing situations usually confuse the autofocus system.

Quote:

Just this morning I was thinking of how happy I am especially on the mf/film side with my Program Plus: smc-a 28/2.8, Tamron SP 90/2.5, the Tamron 2x, and the 43 Limited. Just about perfect (adding in the Tamron SP 35-80 2.8-3.8 for good measure)....

Tamron 90 would be an excellent lens for my range! Is it a K-mount?

incitatus · 11-19-2007, 11:15 AM

Currently:
A 28 2.8 (don't like it)
FA35 2.0
A 50 1.7 (favorite)
K 135 2.5

Planned for near future
FA 20 2.8
FA 35 2.0
FA 50 1.7/A 50 1.7
FA 77 1.8
K 135 2.5

this is going to be a very expensive next few weeks

won't replace the 135 because it's amazing

Nesster · 11-19-2007, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Tamron 90 would be an excellent lens for my range! Is it a K-mount?

The one I have is an old Adaptall lens, you can get a K-A adaptor (though these are scarce and tend to go for $$) or a regular K adaptor for it. The regular one makes it act like a M lens, the A gives you the A functionality. I have one of each, have the A adaptor on the 90mm currently.

This lens has gone through a few generations over the years - mine's the second iteration. After that, the f-stop went to 2.8 and the lens gained a 1:1 capability. Currently this lens is available in an autofocus form, from all I hear a wonderful lens still.

roy · 11-19-2007, 06:35 PM

primes??

28/2.8
50/1.4
105/2.5
135/2.5
200/3.5
200/4
300/4
300/2.8 with the 140f1.4x, 01f2x, and the 200f2x, PKA adaptall2 mount
500/4.5
1.4x-s
2x
68mm Ex tubes

all pentax except the 300/2.8 and the2x. actually i have 3 other TCs in adaptall mounts that only work on adaptall lenses.. oh, the 200/3.5 is a vivitar.

Finn · 11-19-2007, 07:58 PM

I own a DA 16-45, but I'm so used to primes I usually find the focal length for the angle of view I want, and reposition myself for each shot. My wife thinks I'm insane for not zooming like a normal person. Ah well.

I currently use the following setup:

FA31/1.8
FA43/1.9
M50/1.7 (redundant with the 43, but it's sharper than the 43 below f/4)
Tamron SP 90/2.5 macro

Currently trying to fill in the wide end. I had a DA21 but traded it because I wanted a 35mm-compatible prime. I'm thinking an old 20mm or 24mm might do the trick -- little use for AF that wide anyway. I'd also like something between 50 and 90, so maybe the FA77 to fill out the FA limiteds. We'll see if I can put together the cash before they're discontinued.

dugrant153 · 11-21-2007, 12:34 AM

I also have the M50/1.7, and it's a great lens. The F1.7 allows me to shoot indoors and get somewhat decent shots in darkened rooms. I haven't tried it as a portrait lens just yet...

The only issue with M-lenses is that, if you want to use aperture value other than fully wide open, you have to press the AE-L button before taking a photo. I've actually become used to this, and it usually only adds a second to the whole process of taking a photo. Not a big deal, and it actually makes me think about how my camera is metering the shot.

Of course, having autofocus and going on program mode will allow you to swing around and capture that sudden shot... but I find autofocus can sometimes 'miss' the object you want to shoot (complex foreground/background), and can sometimes even hunt for a long time in the dark!

I'm hoping that the more I practice with all this manual stuff, the better I'll get at taking pictures. As much as I like auto, sometimes it just doesn't do what I want it to do. And that can get frustrating, especially during a wedding photoshoot.

11-19-2007, 06:35 PM	#26
roy Inactive Account Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: D/FW area, Tx. Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,710	primes?? 28/2.8 50/1.4 105/2.5 135/2.5 200/3.5 200/4 300/4 300/2.8 with the 140f1.4x, 01f2x, and the 200f2x, PKA adaptall2 mount 500/4.5 1.4x-s 2x 68mm Ex tubes all pentax except the 300/2.8 and the2x. actually i have 3 other TCs in adaptall mounts that only work on adaptall lenses.. oh, the 200/3.5 is a vivitar. Last edited by roy; 11-20-2007 at 08:33 AM.

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11-15-2007, 06:20 AM	#16
egordon99 Inactive Account Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Outside of Philly Posts: 1,561	Yep, you'd have to go Auto with your 540. I would recommend you FOCUS (and compose) first, then stop down for the meter reading (AE-lock button) Might make a difference, might not...

11-18-2007, 05:27 PM	#17
dugrant153 Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Vancouver, BC Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,059 Original Poster	well I have started up my prime setup (uh oh!). I bought the Pentax SMC-M 28mm F2.8 lens, and it is SWEET! only problems, of course, is the odd metering processing. Sometimes it's okay, sometimse I have to press that AE-L button to have it meter accordingly. and yeah, egordon99, sometiems it makes a difference, sometimes it doesnt. So my setup so far is: Pentax SMC-M 28mm F2.8 (sharp lens! but needs a lens hood) Pentax SMC-DA 40mm Limited F2.8 I'm waiting for the M 50mm F1.7 to come in (delayed shipment), and am eyeing an SMC-M 135mm F3.5 (hunting for an F2.8 if possible). Any other suggestions for lenses? Also, on a side note, I find that when I use flash with the M lens, the flash is not controlled (well duh, it's a manual lens) and I end up getting pictures of pure white. Could someone give me a quick primer on how to set the flash so I don't always blow out pictures with my old manual lenses?

11-18-2007, 05:41 PM	#18
egordon99 Inactive Account Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Outside of Philly Posts: 1,561	Like I said above, use your 540 in AUTO mode. Press the mode button until it reads "Auto" Then make sure that the ISO and f-stop match between the camera and the flash.

11-19-2007, 12:57 AM	#19
dugrant153 Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Vancouver, BC Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,059 Original Poster	oops! had the flash on TTL mode. it works! awesome!! definitely quite a few more steps than just P-TTL pointing and shooting. Definitely feels more 'involved'. Anyone have the Pentax SMC-M 135mm F3.5? I'm just wondering how it compares to the DA 55-200mm, as the F stop at 135mm on that zoom is about F4.5... wondering if the image quality is that much different. Last edited by dugrant153; 11-19-2007 at 01:06 AM.

11-19-2007, 06:41 AM	#20
richard64 Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: England Posts: 309	Originally posted by dugrant153 I'm thinking of going the M lens route, after reading the replies to this thread (I'm possibly eyeing an M200/4 ... haha). well if you're going to bid for one on ebay let me know, so we don't get to bid against each other! Originally posted by dugrant153 With an M lens, you have to: 1) Set aperature manually 2) Meter using the AE-L lock function (so spot the subject, and press AE-L button to meter properly?) 3) Focus manually, then take shot. (all in that order?) Yes, but you can also use Av mode, which saves you from using the AE-L button. If you have a non-M (eg an M42) then you have to stop down meter: 1) focus wide open 2) stop down and meter For various obscure reasons the metering for M42 lenses are usually out by about 2EV, so you have to apply exposure compensation or (if in M) alter the shutter speed given by the AE-L button. Originally posted by dugrant153 Quite a few extra steps from getting a DA and letting it do all the work for ya... but after having the DA lose a few shots due to focusing on the wrong subject, I think doing things more manually isn't so bad after all! Ah but what about losing quite a few shots because the DA lens is not as good as old glass? ;-) Richard

11-19-2007, 07:40 AM	#21
Nesster Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: NJ USA Photos: Gallery Posts: 13,072	Just this morning I was thinking of how happy I am especially on the mf/film side with my Program Plus: smc-a 28/2.8, Tamron SP 90/2.5, the Tamron 2x, and the 43 Limited. Just about perfect (adding in the Tamron SP 35-80 2.8-3.8 for good measure).... Only the 43 is auto focus, but the Tamron 90 is beautiful to focus with the K100D.

11-19-2007, 09:46 AM	#22
Big Dawg Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Thach, Alabama Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 169	Primes are great if you have an Idea of the distance range you will be shooting in. zooms are great general walk-about lens when you may be shooting at closeup or far away during the walk. I have these and will be improving the quality of some of them over time....though the ones I have do a pretty good job as is. I don't like the auto-anything very much and still do most in manual mode as that is where I'm most comfortable. 24mm 28mm 35mm 50mm 55mm 70mm 90mm 105mm macro 135mm 150mm 200mm 300mm 400mm But I could get by on the 28mm 50mm 105mm macro 135mm 200mm 300mm Dawg

11-19-2007, 10:53 AM	#23
dugrant153 Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Vancouver, BC Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,059 Original Poster	Quote: But I could get by on the 28mm 50mm 105mm macro 135mm 200mm 300mm Dawg I can probably get by with something like that, although could probably do without the 300mm for now. That's more birdwatching range, isn't it? Quote: Yes, but you can also use Av mode, which saves you from using the AE-L button. If you have a non-M (eg an M42) then you have to stop down meter: 1) focus wide open 2) stop down and meter For various obscure reasons the metering for M42 lenses are usually out by about 2EV, so you have to apply exposure compensation or (if in M) alter the shutter speed given by the AE-L button. What?! You mean I've been pressing the AE-L button this while time while Av mode... and I didn't have to? Haha... my bad! or maybe my good... now I know how to meter manually!! Quote: Ah but what about losing quite a few shots because the DA lens is not as good as old glass? ;-) You know, strangely enough, the M 28mm F2.8 took some amazing shots... absolutely amazing. Super sharp landscape pictures and family pictures, even close up portraits! The DA is a great lens, but I notice that there's less 'feel' to it when manual focusing so it's hard to manually focus properly. There's a bit more of a greasy resistance on the M lens, something that makes manual focusing much more accurate and enjoyable, not to mention that it takes more turning to go from one end of the focus to the other. I'd still use the DA limited pancake lens when things get hairy and the autofocus is really needed (difficult to manual focus on super speedy zebra danio fish!), if I need P-TTL flash, or even if I just need the focal length. Plus, the size of the lens means less torsional force on my hand and wrist (easier on the hands). It's a great lens that can take some really awesome pictures. Plus, it's fun when other photographers ask 'where's your lens?' and you point out it's right there on the camera. But I'm starting to manually focus on everything as complex focusing situations usually confuse the autofocus system. Quote: Just this morning I was thinking of how happy I am especially on the mf/film side with my Program Plus: smc-a 28/2.8, Tamron SP 90/2.5, the Tamron 2x, and the 43 Limited. Just about perfect (adding in the Tamron SP 35-80 2.8-3.8 for good measure).... Tamron 90 would be an excellent lens for my range! Is it a K-mount?

11-19-2007, 11:15 AM	#24
incitatus Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 47	Currently: A 28 2.8 (don't like it) FA35 2.0 A 50 1.7 (favorite) K 135 2.5 Planned for near future FA 20 2.8 FA 35 2.0 FA 50 1.7/A 50 1.7 FA 77 1.8 K 135 2.5 this is going to be a very expensive next few weeks won't replace the 135 because it's amazing

11-19-2007, 11:17 AM	#25
Nesster Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: NJ USA Photos: Gallery Posts: 13,072	Quote: Tamron 90 would be an excellent lens for my range! Is it a K-mount? The one I have is an old Adaptall lens, you can get a K-A adaptor (though these are scarce and tend to go for $$) or a regular K adaptor for it. The regular one makes it act like a M lens, the A gives you the A functionality. I have one of each, have the A adaptor on the 90mm currently. This lens has gone through a few generations over the years - mine's the second iteration. After that, the f-stop went to 2.8 and the lens gained a 1:1 capability. Currently this lens is available in an autofocus form, from all I hear a wonderful lens still.

11-19-2007, 07:58 PM	#27
Finn Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Phoenix Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,056	I own a DA 16-45, but I'm so used to primes I usually find the focal length for the angle of view I want, and reposition myself for each shot. My wife thinks I'm insane for not zooming like a normal person. Ah well. I currently use the following setup: FA31/1.8 FA43/1.9 M50/1.7 (redundant with the 43, but it's sharper than the 43 below f/4) Tamron SP 90/2.5 macro Currently trying to fill in the wide end. I had a DA21 but traded it because I wanted a 35mm-compatible prime. I'm thinking an old 20mm or 24mm might do the trick -- little use for AF that wide anyway. I'd also like something between 50 and 90, so maybe the FA77 to fill out the FA limiteds. We'll see if I can put together the cash before they're discontinued.

11-21-2007, 12:34 AM	#28
dugrant153 Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Vancouver, BC Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,059 Original Poster	I also have the M50/1.7, and it's a great lens. The F1.7 allows me to shoot indoors and get somewhat decent shots in darkened rooms. I haven't tried it as a portrait lens just yet... The only issue with M-lenses is that, if you want to use aperture value other than fully wide open, you have to press the AE-L button before taking a photo. I've actually become used to this, and it usually only adds a second to the whole process of taking a photo. Not a big deal, and it actually makes me think about how my camera is metering the shot. Of course, having autofocus and going on program mode will allow you to swing around and capture that sudden shot... but I find autofocus can sometimes 'miss' the object you want to shoot (complex foreground/background), and can sometimes even hunt for a long time in the dark! I'm hoping that the more I practice with all this manual stuff, the better I'll get at taking pictures. As much as I like auto, sometimes it just doesn't do what I want it to do. And that can get frustrating, especially during a wedding photoshoot.