Originally posted by klh I can't seem to narrow down my choices between Tamron 10-24/3.5, Sigma 10-20/4, DA14/2.8, DA15/4, Vivitar 13/2.8, or Samyang 14/2.8, so help me with a few questions.
There is no Sigma 10-20/4. There is one constant aperture version 10-20/3.5 (has seven aperture blades which allow nice starburst effects, and has HSM) and a variable aperture version 10-20/4-5.6 (which has screw-drive AF, has a bit more complicated distortion at 10mm but less CA overall). Both lenses are very good and popular and I suggest that you look at individual test results to check which one ticks your boxes.
The Tamron 10-24 is generally regarded as being optically not quite as good as the Sigmas.
I personally wouldn't consider the primes unless you had very specific reasons (less weight in the bag, potentially better flare resistance, ...).
You might also want to look at the Sigma 8-16. Those who own it, typically love it.
Originally posted by klh 1) How important would a fast aperture of f/2.8 be?
As others have said: Not very important in general. Ultra wides get a
lot in the frame and their bokeh isn't fantastic; one usually uses them stopped down to achieve sufficient DOF for rendering almost everything acceptably sharp.
Originally posted by klh Most likely I will be on a tripod when I use this and can use slower shutter speeds anyway.
If your subjects don't move, you may also consider doing panoramas with a less wide lens. Potentially much better quality but problematic if things in the frame move.
Originally posted by klh 2) How often would one be frustrated with 13-15mm not being wide enough?'
I understand many opt for a 10-20 rather than a 12-24 because the 2mm at the wide end really matter. The increase in FOV is substantial (unlike a 50mm increase from 300 to 350 which is insignificant in comparison, i.e., less of a tenth). If you like ultra wide, you'll like 10mm or even 8mm. BTW, when comparing FOV figures between lenses, note that Sigma expresses the FOV of their lenses in terms of their (slightly smaller) own Foveon sensor. This means their FOV figures are not as high as they would be if they expressed them in terms of Pentax/Sony APS-C.
Originally posted by klh 4) Is manual focus all that difficult with these?
Contrary to what has been written before, it is a piece of cake. I use my 10-20 in MF all the time. At most f-ratios the DOF is huge so just make sure the nearest object you want to have sharp is in focus (the green, focus confirmation, hexagon helps) and typically the rest will be fine. You can also go a step further and use hyperfocal focusing. With typical apertures, the hyperfocal focusing distance will be really short so many times it can be a matter of "set and forget".
Ultra-wides are the easiest lenses to MF. They seem to be hardest to AF as well, since the AF area covers so much content. I believe that experienced wide-angle shooters avoid AF.
Originally posted by klh 5) Does the rule that image quality of a prime is superior apply to this focal range?
On this forum, I've often read that the Pentax 12-24 is at least as good as the wide-angle Pentax primes. I believe the Sigma 10-20/3.5 is better than the 12-24 in some disciplines and worse in others. Again, worth looking at individual aspects of tests, rather than going for an overall star rating or similar.