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06-01-2011, 12:21 PM   #151
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QuoteOriginally posted by spicy cho Quote
Figure I'll ask here... Why are wide angle primes always on the slower end? I'd love to have a <20mm with f2.0 or less. I love the 15mm limited but f4 isn't any good for my low light needs. Love my 21mm but it's not suited for that either...
you can buy a K-5. I'm sure it would be fast enough from then on. are you doing action photography or anything with significant movements under lowlights? outdoors or indoors? type of situation?

06-01-2011, 12:28 PM   #152
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Action photography, that's the thing. Mostly punk shows, people all over the place, stagedives, etc. Indoors, often with terrible lighting conditions. I refuse to use a flash, and I only use primes. Is a K5 that huge a step up from my KX? I kind of blew my budget on my lenses, and figured I'd wait for the presumably even better high iso performance of the K3 or whatever pentax decides to call it.
06-01-2011, 12:37 PM   #153
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I rather doubt the difference between f/4 and f/2.8 is going to be the difference between stopping the motion in a stage dive or not.
06-01-2011, 12:57 PM   #154
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I see. well even 2 aperture stops still won't be enough for such occasions. Yes, the K-5 would be the best thing in such scenario. but I don't think it would somehow freeze the motion entirely of a very rowdy crowd. most of it probably would be fine. the great thing about the K-5 is not entirely on it's High ISO functionality but DR. try shooting at base ISO 80 or as low as you could maybe around ISO 200-400 at 1/160 or 1/250 or whatever shutter speed you feel necessary to capture the action. and just push the exposure of the underexposed image during post-processing.

if you can't afford the K-5 right now, a flash with a good diffuser would be a logical choice.

06-01-2011, 01:18 PM   #155
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QuoteOriginally posted by Pentaxor Quote
I see. well even 2 aperture stops still won't be enough for such occasions. Yes, the K-5 would be the best thing in such scenario. but I don't think it would somehow freeze the motion entirely of a very rowdy crowd. most of it probably would be fine. the great thing about the K-5 is not entirely on it's High ISO functionality but DR. try shooting at base ISO 80 or as low as you could maybe around ISO 200-400 at 1/160 or 1/250 or whatever shutter speed you feel necessary to capture the action. and just push the exposure of the underexposed image during post-processing.

if you can't afford the K-5 right now, a flash with a good diffuser would be a logical choice.
Hmm, well I've been quite reluctant to using flash, but what would be a good, not too expensive one to look at?
06-01-2011, 02:11 PM   #156
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QuoteOriginally posted by spicy cho Quote
Action photography, that's the thing.
In your shoes I would use the K5/KX + DA 21, highest ISO setting, and convert everything to black and white. You can get away with a lot more with high ISO + black and white.

I also imagine having a lens as small as the DA21 would be a blessing in that sort of environment!
06-01-2011, 02:40 PM   #157
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QuoteOriginally posted by axl Quote
And I believe many more folks would opt for 24-26f2 as opposed 28/2.8...
I would totally be down with this, basically I'd just like a fast, wider-ish lens. The FA*24/2 would be nice, but it's pretty rare and expensive.
06-01-2011, 02:52 PM   #158
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QuoteOriginally posted by spicy cho Quote
Hmm, well I've been quite reluctant to using flash, but what would be a good, not too expensive one to look at?

hmmm... this would depend on your needs, budget and your experience with flashes. personally I could vouch for cheap manual flashes if you don't mind adjusting and setting the power manually or you would want something with a pttl exposure, zoom head (manual or full-auto) and other perks and functionalities (tilt/swivel would be of great value, infrared, others). these could range from $35-$150, depending on the brand and capabilities that you could live with and without. good brands would be the Yongnuo, Bower, Vivitar, Sigma, Metz. the only downside with these models is that they have max shutterspeed of 1/180 (due to camera specification.

if you want or could afford something that you could use at much faster shutterspeed (above 1/180 to 1/4000 or 1/8000), anything with HSS would be great, among with other perks. good brands vary from Pentax, Sigma, Metz. the prices ranges from $200-$400. I would choose the Metz 50 (200+) for the budget and the Sigma 610 (250) for additional functionality.

06-02-2011, 08:26 AM   #159
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QuoteOriginally posted by paperbag846 Quote
In your shoes I would use the K5/KX + DA 21, highest ISO setting, and convert everything to black and white. You can get away with a lot more with high ISO + black and white.

I also imagine having a lens as small as the DA21 would be a blessing in that sort of environment!
Yeah, you know I think that's absolutely right. I've put a lot of effort into having a small kit, and flashes turn me off. Shooting below f2.8 (or 3.2 in the case of the 21) will usually give too shallow a DOF for the shots I want to get anyways. If I do get a flash it will be the metz 24, but I haven't seen that around much yet. I like somewhat grainy black and white shots, it definitely gives me a lot of leeway. I can shoot underexposed and fix things up in post relatively easily.
06-06-2011, 01:12 PM   #160
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QuoteOriginally posted by spicy cho Quote
I've put a lot of effort into having a small kit, and flashes turn me off.
Quite often in 'Gig' situations, flash is prohibited anyway... When it is allowed however, I rock one... I'd get a Manual Yongnuo if I were you and just have a play around (I have a YN560 that goes to every gig that my camera does...) they're damn good fun and very easy to work out...
06-06-2011, 01:18 PM   #161
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Well there is the R&D survey to wich lenses to develop: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-slr-lens-discussion/146454-wich-le...r-d-money.html
06-07-2011, 05:37 AM   #162
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QuoteOriginally posted by Marc Sabatella Quote
I rather doubt the difference between f/4 and f/2.8 is going to be the difference between stopping the motion in a stage dive or not.
it may not be but f4 and f2.8 is difference between ISO800 and 1600 or 1600 and 3200...
and that may be very valid difference...
06-07-2011, 08:18 AM   #163
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QuoteOriginally posted by axl Quote
it may not be but f4 and f2.8 is difference between ISO800 and 1600 or 1600 and 3200...
and that may be very valid difference...
Good point, the difference between 800 and 1600 on my K10 is pretty significant.
06-07-2011, 08:56 AM   #164
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Right, I just didn't want the OP to have unrealistic expectations about what an f/2.8 lens could do in terms of *action* photography in truly low light. However, sometimes light is indeed not as low as you think. We are mostly terrible judges of light levels, because our eyes adapt so well for the most part. One might not be aware that there is a big difference in light levels between a show at a small club versus a larger auditorium, but there almost always is.
06-07-2011, 09:46 AM   #165
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I would like 28/1.4 or 1.8 for some creative possibilities.
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