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07-27-2011, 06:46 AM   #46
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QuoteOriginally posted by paperbag846 Quote
I recently went of a trip and rediscovered how manual focus can be far superior to autofocus. And I was using a 50 dollar lens.
Agreed. I shoot mostly manual focus. I prefer focusing on the thing I want to be in focus, rather than let the camera guess. I can usually focus manually as fast, if not faster than the AF anyway.

I went with Pentax after looking at Nikon & Canon because to put it simply: There is a smattering of backwards compatibility with a few older lenses on some Nikon & Canon bodies, but with Pentax, it's totally backwards compatible. You can mount any Pentax bayonet or M42 lens made in the last half century on a Pentax DSLR. You can't do that with a Nikon or Canon. I'm not dissing them, 'cuz I think they make superb cameras & glass... I'm just saying that's why I personally chose Pentax.

I came from a Nikon 35mm system, and believe me, if Nikon DSLRs had the backwards compatibility of Pentax, I'd have went with Nikon in a heartbeat because I had some great Nikkor glass. But I don't regret going with Pentax for a second. I think they're every bit as good as Canon, Nikon, or anything else. And I think the Pentax ergonomics are better.

07-27-2011, 08:16 AM   #47
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QuoteOriginally posted by GibbyTheMole Quote
Agreed. I shoot mostly manual focus. I prefer focusing on the thing I want to be in focus, rather than let the camera guess. I can usually focus manually as fast, if not faster than the AF anyway.
You can still use lens/camera auto-focus but instead of letting the camera to select the focus point(s), you choose the point/subject to be in focus. This is far better than letting the camera choose the focus points. Unfortunately, most newbies and even advanced users uses the latter method. And most of the time, the camera chooses the wrong focus point or simply did not get the optimal focus.

on the other hand, there are times that manual focus is needed especially when the selected object is difficult to get in proper focus (eg. birds in between and behind branches). Also, if you want to do panning, it is better to use manual focus as auto-focus by the camera may induce errors.
07-27-2011, 08:20 AM   #48
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QuoteOriginally posted by aleonx3 Quote
You can still use lens/camera auto-focus but instead of letting the camera to select the focus point(s), you choose the point/subject to be in focus. This is far better than letting the camera choose the focus points.
True 'nuff... I usually keep my AF set to a center focus point. I still personally prefer the manual approach, tho. My best lenses happen to be MF, too.
07-27-2011, 08:48 AM   #49
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QuoteOriginally posted by GibbyTheMole Quote
True 'nuff... I usually keep my AF set to a center focus point. I still personally prefer the manual approach, tho. My best lenses happen to be MF, too.
I too only use center-point (plus AF.S so I can recompose).

However, the better I get, the less important AF becomes. At this point, AF is more important to me when I am shooting a moving target at f2 or wider. It happens occasionally (poor light / candid portraits) and the FA 50 is the ticket for that one. I also use AF quite a bit with the 70-210 because when you are really zoomed in, it can be very tough to manually focus on a moving target. However, for 70mm and below, and my most commonly used apertures (f2.8 or smaller), the difference is not very important.

07-27-2011, 01:48 PM   #50
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Can you suggest me a good lens for landscape/nature photography to have as little vigneting as it can? I tried to remove vigneting in pp, but the results are crappy...
oh and not very expensive
07-27-2011, 01:50 PM   #51
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QuoteOriginally posted by Andrei87 Quote
Can you suggest me a good lens for landscape/nature photography to have as little vigneting as it can? I tried to remove vigneting in pp, but the results are crappy...
oh and not very expensive
How wide? I found the 28mm f2.8 (M or A) to be great for landscapes and they are very cheap. No vignetting past f4, very sharp, but not the most saturated colours.
07-27-2011, 01:58 PM   #52
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I forgot to mention, something below 20mm...but I suppose those are pretty expensive. And preferably Pentax lenses or something that doesn't need an adapter. Yes, I'm interested in being sharp too, but I think I want too much Thanks
07-27-2011, 02:00 PM   #53
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QuoteOriginally posted by Andrei87 Quote
I forgot to mention, something below 20mm...but I suppose those are pretty expensive. And preferably Pentax lens or something that doesn't need an adapter. Thanks
Yes, those lenses are very expensive.

Consider the DA 16-45. It's pretty good at the 16mm end, not as good as the 12-24, or DA 15, but much less expensive.

I think you will find yourself zooming into 24-28mm for a lot of landscapes anyway, so having a zoom like that is helpful.

07-27-2011, 02:30 PM   #54
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Thanks. That is what I am looking for. Gotta save some money.
What about Sigma 10-20mm? That one too seems very atractive...
07-27-2011, 02:51 PM   #55
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QuoteOriginally posted by Andrei87 Quote
What about Sigma 10-20mm?
Never used it. Some people here love it. It is a crazy wide lens, if you want to go that wide, then go for it.

I personally find the widest I would ever want to shoot is about 15mm.. and thats more for perspective and indoors, not for landscapes. Landscapes I tend to shoot in the 20s.
07-27-2011, 03:02 PM   #56
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I shoot mostly storms and weather, but also landscapes. Just saw some reviews of Sigma 10-20mm, it got barrel distortion...pincushion I can handle (in fact it is quite pleasant for me) but not barrel distortion. I will dig deeper. Thanks again paperbag846!
07-27-2011, 04:00 PM   #57
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QuoteOriginally posted by Andrei87 Quote
I shoot mostly storms and weather, but also landscapes. Just saw some reviews of Sigma 10-20mm, it got barrel distortion...pincushion I can handle (in fact it is quite pleasant for me) but not barrel distortion. I will dig deeper. Thanks again paperbag846!
Not a problem!

Just to mention... most wide angle zooms have barrel distortion and it's really easily corrected in a little (free) program called GIMP.

I used to be afraid of barrel distortion too. Now, barrel distortion fears me.

Flickr: Discussing Barrel Distortion correction? in GIMP users

GIMP - The GNU Image Manipulation Program
07-27-2011, 08:23 PM   #58
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QuoteOriginally posted by GibbyTheMole Quote
Agreed. I shoot mostly manual focus. I prefer focusing on the thing I want to be in focus, rather than let the camera guess. I can usually focus manually as fast, if not faster than the AF anyway.

I went with Pentax after looking at Nikon & Canon because to put it simply: There is a smattering of backwards compatibility with a few older lenses on some Nikon & Canon bodies, but with Pentax, it's totally backwards compatible. You can mount any Pentax bayonet or M42 lens made in the last half century on a Pentax DSLR. You can't do that with a Nikon or Canon. I'm not dissing them, 'cuz I think they make superb cameras & glass... I'm just saying that's why I personally chose Pentax.

I came from a Nikon 35mm system, and believe me, if Nikon DSLRs had the backwards compatibility of Pentax, I'd have went with Nikon in a heartbeat because I had some great Nikkor glass. But I don't regret going with Pentax for a second. I think they're every bit as good as Canon, Nikon, or anything else. And I think the Pentax ergonomics are better.
If you have used manual focus lenses ( Leica R, Zeiss Contax CY, OM Zuiko, all m42, Nikon Ai/AiS, whole range of Pentax K, 645MF lenses and more) on a Canon body like a 40/50/60D or 5/5DII, only then will I agree with you. If not, then I will not agree.
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