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DanielT74 · 09-30-2011, 10:43 PM

Originally posted by civiletti

Would this conversion preserve auto-iris operation?

Yes, just like John said - it's all manual, which isn't such a bad thing - the lens is reputed to be incredibly sharp right from f2.8. But sure manual focus in macro with iris closed down might be a bit tricky, or keeping it steady after focusing in order to meter?

Any experience there?

I played with Tokina 90/2.5 in M42 and actually didn't find it too hard, but I always used it in bright conditions and would stop it down only a little. Will be interesting in trying it with the Leica!

So you reckon, no point bothering, John? To order the correct mount is another $AUS100+...

Last edited by DanielT74; 09-30-2011 at 11:08 PM.

Chex · 09-30-2011, 11:49 PM

Just track down a FA* 200mm f4 Macro.. they are cheap!

xjjohnno · 10-05-2011, 03:39 AM

Daniel, do the job right or don't bother. And I hope you also grabbed that LEICA ELPRO 1.2-1.1 converter.
There will be a very good and valid reason as to why 10 screws are required, stuff like perhaps reinforcing some of the aperture mechanism is my guess.
BTW, if you didn't grab the Elpro I know someone selling one, same with the Elmarit.

DanielT74 · 10-05-2011, 05:22 AM

The APO-Macro-Elmarit is here and adapted. Will post some pics at the Macro thread soon.

pentaxk1000denver · 10-05-2011, 09:01 AM

I bought the Vivitar 100mm 3.5 (Cosina made) and I love it. It was cheap (less than $100) and magnification is 1:2 without the macro adapter. I use an extension tube when I want greater magnification. The build quality feels a little cheap (this one was dubbed the "plastic fantastic" I believe), but I haven't had any trouble with it and MF is a breeze (no AF on this one, but I think they made an A version?). It's a little soft wide open, but stopped down to 5.6 or 8 or so and it is nice and sharp. Some handheld shots without the extension tube (all on film with a k1000):

alphanerd · 10-05-2011, 04:07 PM

Originally posted by DanielT74

Yes, just like John said - it's all manual, which isn't such a bad thing - the lens is reputed to be incredibly sharp right from f2.8. But sure manual focus in macro with iris closed down might be a bit tricky, or keeping it steady after focusing in order to meter?

Any experience there?

I've taken a few shots using a couple of inches of extension tubes on my Viv S1 90mm f2.5. The lens stopped down as I turned the aperture dial, and I still managed to focus at f22 in shade (on a bright day). I was using a flash, though I don't recall how much fiddling with manual power adjustment it took to get the exposure correct. I focused by moving back and forward, keeping the lens set at minimum focal distance. All in all, it wasn't too bad for a still subject, and I'm pretty sure the result was larger than real life. Or course, it wasn't as easy as it would have been with 100% light transmittal. It's certainly got me thinking about gutting a cheap auto TC, or finding the matching macro-converter.

Looking back, it seems I missed focus at least a few times.

cali92rs · 10-05-2011, 04:54 PM

For what its worth, I just recieved a WR D FA 100mm today

Along with a 160 ring flash

I cant wait to take them out for a spin. When I was in the Nikon world, I had the 105mm f/2.8 VR macro lens, and this one is MUCH smaller. Its not a lot bigger than my 35mm LTD.

Something I learned, which you probably already know, is that having some sort of flash makes macro a lot easier, especially with moving objects. Camera shake kills you, especially at 1:1 or bigger and with a small aperture (f/16 or smaller). I like to set the shutter speed to the max sync speed, aperture to f/16 or f/22 (You get some diffraction, but in my opinion its worth it for extra DOF), and then manually adjust your flash to get proper exposure.

Edit: Of course, this usually results in a black or near black background, but it cool for subject isolation.

Last edited by cali92rs; 10-05-2011 at 05:04 PM.

Laurentiu Cristofor · 10-05-2011, 06:25 PM

Originally posted by cali92rs

Something I learned, which you probably already know, is that having some sort of flash makes macro a lot easier, especially with moving objects. Camera shake kills you, especially at 1:1 or bigger and with a small aperture (f/16 or smaller). I like to set the shutter speed to the max sync speed, aperture to f/16 or f/22 (You get some diffraction, but in my opinion its worth it for extra DOF), and then manually adjust your flash to get proper exposure.

+1

Once I go beyond 1:2 magnification, I also find it very hard to stabilize a shot. A ring flash is indeed extremely helpful for larger magnification.

10-05-2011, 04:07 PM	#36
alphanerd Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Posts: 119	Originally posted by DanielT74 Yes, just like John said - it's all manual, which isn't such a bad thing - the lens is reputed to be incredibly sharp right from f2.8. But sure manual focus in macro with iris closed down might be a bit tricky, or keeping it steady after focusing in order to meter? Any experience there? I've taken a few shots using a couple of inches of extension tubes on my Viv S1 90mm f2.5. The lens stopped down as I turned the aperture dial, and I still managed to focus at f22 in shade (on a bright day). I was using a flash, though I don't recall how much fiddling with manual power adjustment it took to get the exposure correct. I focused by moving back and forward, keeping the lens set at minimum focal distance. All in all, it wasn't too bad for a still subject, and I'm pretty sure the result was larger than real life. Or course, it wasn't as easy as it would have been with 100% light transmittal. It's certainly got me thinking about gutting a cheap auto TC, or finding the matching macro-converter. Looking back, it seems I missed focus at least a few times. Last edited by alphanerd; 10-05-2011 at 10:21 PM. Reason: add picture

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09-30-2011, 10:43 PM	#31
DanielT74 Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Australia Photos: Albums Posts: 1,377	Originally posted by civiletti Would this conversion preserve auto-iris operation? Yes, just like John said - it's all manual, which isn't such a bad thing - the lens is reputed to be incredibly sharp right from f2.8. But sure manual focus in macro with iris closed down might be a bit tricky, or keeping it steady after focusing in order to meter? Any experience there? I played with Tokina 90/2.5 in M42 and actually didn't find it too hard, but I always used it in bright conditions and would stop it down only a little. Will be interesting in trying it with the Leica! So you reckon, no point bothering, John? To order the correct mount is another $AUS100+... Last edited by DanielT74; 09-30-2011 at 11:08 PM.

09-30-2011, 11:49 PM	#32
Chex Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: The 'Stoke, British Columbia Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,678	Just track down a FA* 200mm f4 Macro.. they are cheap!

10-05-2011, 03:39 AM	#33
xjjohnno Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Melbourne Australia Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,115	Daniel, do the job right or don't bother. And I hope you also grabbed that LEICA ELPRO 1.2-1.1 converter. There will be a very good and valid reason as to why 10 screws are required, stuff like perhaps reinforcing some of the aperture mechanism is my guess. BTW, if you didn't grab the Elpro I know someone selling one, same with the Elmarit.

10-05-2011, 05:22 AM	#34
DanielT74 Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Australia Photos: Albums Posts: 1,377	The APO-Macro-Elmarit is here and adapted. Will post some pics at the Macro thread soon.

10-05-2011, 09:01 AM	#35
pentaxk1000denver Inactive Account Join Date: May 2011 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 159	I bought the Vivitar 100mm 3.5 (Cosina made) and I love it. It was cheap (less than $100) and magnification is 1:2 without the macro adapter. I use an extension tube when I want greater magnification. The build quality feels a little cheap (this one was dubbed the "plastic fantastic" I believe), but I haven't had any trouble with it and MF is a breeze (no AF on this one, but I think they made an A version?). It's a little soft wide open, but stopped down to 5.6 or 8 or so and it is nice and sharp. Some handheld shots without the extension tube (all on film with a k1000):

10-05-2011, 04:54 PM	#37
cali92rs Veteran Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: Long Beach, CA Posts: 3,354	For what its worth, I just recieved a WR D FA 100mm today Along with a 160 ring flash I cant wait to take them out for a spin. When I was in the Nikon world, I had the 105mm f/2.8 VR macro lens, and this one is MUCH smaller. Its not a lot bigger than my 35mm LTD. Something I learned, which you probably already know, is that having some sort of flash makes macro a lot easier, especially with moving objects. Camera shake kills you, especially at 1:1 or bigger and with a small aperture (f/16 or smaller). I like to set the shutter speed to the max sync speed, aperture to f/16 or f/22 (You get some diffraction, but in my opinion its worth it for extra DOF), and then manually adjust your flash to get proper exposure. Edit: Of course, this usually results in a black or near black background, but it cool for subject isolation. Last edited by cali92rs; 10-05-2011 at 05:04 PM.

10-05-2011, 06:25 PM	#38
Laurentiu Cristofor Banned Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: WA Photos: Albums Posts: 3,055	Originally posted by cali92rs Something I learned, which you probably already know, is that having some sort of flash makes macro a lot easier, especially with moving objects. Camera shake kills you, especially at 1:1 or bigger and with a small aperture (f/16 or smaller). I like to set the shutter speed to the max sync speed, aperture to f/16 or f/22 (You get some diffraction, but in my opinion its worth it for extra DOF), and then manually adjust your flash to get proper exposure. +1 Once I go beyond 1:2 magnification, I also find it very hard to stabilize a shot. A ring flash is indeed extremely helpful for larger magnification.

Which 100-105mm macro?

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