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12-07-2007, 12:33 PM   #16
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I dont like where you are taking me roscot, the K10D is quite expensive

Good advice, I will try that

Can you explain a little more this: "preset the camera in P mode and add +1/3 to 1/2 stop EV"

12-07-2007, 12:49 PM   #17
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The under exposing is done on purpose to prevent the highlights from blowing out. I had 2 DS's and because the underexposure was pretty consistent, I just kept +1/2 EV dialed in at all times.

By presetting the camera, all I mean is set all the modes and EV and settings before you leave the house. That way when you get to your shooting site, you can just grab the camera and shoot just like you were still in green mode.

P Mode works very similar to Green mode, but it allows you to override the camera's settings if you want. Green mode locks everything down, so you can't override.
12-07-2007, 12:56 PM   #18
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Roscot makes a good point and if you look at pg 141 of your manual it will show you how to make those adjustments. What a +1/2Ev setting does is the same as slowing the shutter speed down by 1/2 a stop or allowing more light in. Conversely the -1/2 Ev setting will be the same as increasing the shutter speed by 1/2 stop and let less light in. So if you find the camera shoots consitantly one way or another, then adjust to compensate.

Check pg 141 or if you don't have the manual it's here:
http://www.pentaximaging.com/files/manual/istDS_repl_061405_web.pdf
12-07-2007, 01:26 PM   #19
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This is gold guys, really appreciate you taking the time here!

12-07-2007, 01:36 PM   #20
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Before getting a new lens, try using the RAW setting. Since you didn't mention it, I assume you're using JPEG. With RAW you'll be able to correct the exposure and white balance to a much greater degree.
12-07-2007, 01:52 PM   #21
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That is a good tip super, but the speed goes so drastically down when using RAW its not an option in most of these scenarios.
12-07-2007, 02:02 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by Karl Inge S Quote
That is a good tip super, but the speed goes so drastically down when using RAW its not an option in most of these scenarios.
Is the slow speed when shooting RAW a istDs issue? On my k100d I shoot RAW just about exclusively, and haven't noticed a problem with speed. I assume the processing power (CPU) in the k100d is faster.
12-07-2007, 03:38 PM   #23
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For alle cameras, also the K100 or the K10D the speed drops radical when shooting in RAW. For K100 in 10sec it drops fram 14 to 7, for K10D its 30-17 I think....

12-07-2007, 03:53 PM   #24
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I agree with early comments, I would have a good look at the Sigma 17-70. This is a great lens that can be kept on your camera as an everyday lens. Is sharp as any , has great bokeh.
One thing, be careful of vignetting at 17mm or thereabouts.

Howevere, having said all that, please dont just fork out your money on a replacement (upgrade) lens, without first being sure you have checked out all the advice given above. These chaps have all put some very good points for consideration and trying out with your current lens.

Last edited by Bramela; 12-07-2007 at 03:58 PM.
12-11-2007, 11:55 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by Karl Inge S Quote
For alle cameras, also the K100 or the K10D the speed drops radical when shooting in RAW. For K100 in 10sec it drops fram 14 to 7, for K10D its 30-17 I think....
Is there any documentation for this? I'm asking because I thought the camera always shot "raw" and just converted to jpg if you wanted to save the jpg images... Sure, the conversion is quick, and done (in some cases) on a separate chip from the actual image capture, but how can it be faster to do the extra step? (Unless the time spent saving the file is an issue, and the on-board memory buffer is supposed to cover that - within reason)
12-11-2007, 12:20 PM   #26
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The K100D can only take 3 RAW images in a row. I'm not sure what those other numbers are.

I don't think you can even get that Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 in a Pentax mount so you can scratch it off of the list.

Would a faster lens help you out? Probably, but you can't really justify that expense if you haven't reached the limits of what you already own. In situations like you've posted it may seem like there's enough light to you but the camera needs more light than you think. Suggestions have been good so far so I just have one thing to add. When you shoot in sports mode the camera chooses a fast shutter speed to stop action. Since you aren't exactly in a bright place this shutter speed isn't long enough to correctly expose the picture. That's where you're getting the dark pictures.
12-11-2007, 01:46 PM   #27
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Good advice again , thanks

Been checking out the pentaxphotogallery and the problem definetely appears to be located behind my camera I must admit

"In situations like you've posted it may seem like there's enough light to you but the camera needs more light than you think. Suggestions have been good so far so I just have one thing to add. When you shoot in sports mode the camera chooses a fast shutter speed to stop action. Since you aren't exactly in a bright place this shutter speed isn't long enough to correctly expose the picture. That's where you're getting the dark pictures."

I guess this is the key to all of this. My thought was that this could be helped with a lense with ň lower f value.....

PS: Could someone please explain the word "bokeh" for me?
12-11-2007, 01:51 PM   #28
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As to the speed of the camera, here are som figures from akam.no a norwegian photo-site that do tests:

10photos no blitz in jpeg:


Notice how the D80 sucks

10 photos no blitz RAW:


Notice how both D80 and 400D sucks
12-11-2007, 01:54 PM   #29
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Bokeh is out of focus blur. If you look at some images with a shallow depth of field you'll see circles are created in the background. I believe this is caused by the shape of the opening in the lens. So, the more aperture blades the closer it is to a circle. Some aperture blades come with rounded edges to help this out. The closer you are to wide open the closer to a circle the bokah becomes. This is what I've gathered on the topic anyway.
12-12-2007, 02:01 AM   #30
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Wengler: Aha-so when someonse says "great bokeh" it means good "depthsharpness" ?


Amazon.com: Pentax SMCP-FA 50mm f/1.4 Lens: Camera & Photo

This is a great price isnt it? Unfortunately they wont ship to Norway the idiots. What is it about you americans and shipping overseas.... no wonder the USD is crashing down.
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