[RioRico]

You know that your brain is infected when:

* You own multiple instances of inventory matching a focal range (20 Twenties, 50 Fifties, etc).
* You can never have too many fisheyes, TCs, macro and mount adapters, lens-in-a-cap's, etc.
* Your spreadsheet tracks presets, multi-iris-blade lenses, average cost per focal length, etc.
* Your spreadsheet contains algorithms to help you select ideal kits for various circumstances.
* You need to refer to your spreadsheet constantly, to be able to communicate on the forums.
* You carry a printout of your spreadsheet with you when you go strolling, just in case...
* Your lens/camera spreadsheet is the single most important data file in your existence.

[Fontan]

Wolfiegirl, why are you spending money buying junk?

Of all people you should not accuse others of buying junks. You own a K-5 for crying out loud.

[excanonfd]

Well, no it won't affect your LBA-itis. The Sekonic is a hand-held solar-powered light meter (no batteries needed). Hold it near the subject, point the meter at the camera, and get an exposure reading. It should give the same set of exposure settings the camera will suggest if you point the camera at an 18% grey card in the same lighting.

Solar powered? L-398A uses selenium cell to measure light (no batteries required), it's simple to use - it's still being manufactured, unchanged. However, in low light situations it's next to useless (EV range of 4 -17 @ 100 iso) as opposed to a Pentax DSLR which has an EV range of 0-21 @ 100 iso. The Sekonic L-398A is a good incident light meter but because of it's narrow EV sensitivity range, I eventually traded mine for a Minolta Autometer (battery powered, silicon cell light meter (EV range of -8 ~ 25 @100 iso). In terms of design, the Sekonic L-398A is the sexiest looking of the lot.

Needless to say, my 1970's era Sekonic L-398 agrees 100% with my K-r plus 18% grey card

I am interested in your test procedure. Which lens have you tried with your K-r, and have you tried metering at all aperture range? Finally, have you taken pictures of the gray card at each aperture setting, were there any variations in the pictures of the gray card? My K20D is all over the place when it comes to light metering (especially with MF lenses), I am curious to see how much light metering has improved with the K-r and K-5 cameras.

[Oog]

I just did a quick test - took a meter reading with the Sekonic then used a 50 mm lens to fill the frame with the 18% grey card in the same lighting. Whatever the camera suggested (I was in manual mode) for exposure, the Sekonic agreed. It just proves that both are in agreement with each other. I haven't tested for linearity, which is what you are talking about - taking exposures at multiple settings to see if there is a problem with selected apertures or shutter speeds, or testing at different lighting levels.

You are right about the poor sensitivity of the hand-held light meter I have, but I use it for it's intended purposes (calculating lighting ratios and measuring contrast in brightly lit scenes, as well as a simple meter reading).

[wolfiegirl]

Hey Ron,

I think there are two 90mm Tammies on the marketplace atm in your price bracket. Least they were there last time I looked?

Like you I am also trying to only collect 'good' glass, now that I have a base of lenses to test and go through. I'm after a few tammies to replace some of my other lenses but I don't want to pay more than $50 each. And I really need to think abt it before paying $50.

I did the database last night and I've spent close to $1500 (!!!!) on lenses/cameras etc. I didn't even know I *had* that much spare cash!! This is excluding how much I've taken from the joint account, how much I had in cash each week, etc. Once I take away the joint account (I'm counting that as 'income') and the sale of a few lenses and the k100d I'm down to $830, which is better but still from ideal.. *gulp* I want to come out closer to even if I can. Time to start ruthlessly culling!

Hubby just noticed my 2 cameras on the coffee table and saw me surfing ebay.... "you have enough lenses now don't you?" *snicker*

Now *that's* a loaded question...

[rbefly]

Hi Wolfiegirl,
You're right, the Tamron 90mm Macro is in the same price range and has comparable "stats". It's probably just as sharp, newer and much more available.
But the Vivitar/Tokina Bokina has that indefinable but clearly recognized ability to render background or out-of-focus objects (especially highlights) into shapes of great beauty. They become like an expressionistic painting, while the in-focus objects are razor-sharp. It is difficult to explain but even a brief look here;
Vivitar Series 1 90mm 1:2.5 VMC Macro Photo Gallery by Piotr Sobolewski at pbase.com
Will make anyone a believer. I started out as a skeptic, but am now converted!
It must be some semi-magical combination of optics, glass, lens design and maybe a sprinkling of pixie dust, but I've never seen another lens regularly impart such astounding beauty to even commonplace subjects. They appear to be floating in a wash of watercolor elements.
It compares (in a very odd way) to the "Glow" imparted by the $30.00-$50.00 Sears 135 f2.8 Macro lens. Virtually every highlight is rim-lighted by this heavenly aura and takes on an ethereal (sp?) look. It is a somewhat low-rent version of the Bokina. I found the Sears for about $50.00 on e-Bay and duplicated the "Glow" within the first 1/2 dozen shots I took.
But for overall Macro shooting, I much prefer my M 100mm f4.0. Eye-bleedingly sharp, not fussy about exposure, not subject to flare or haze and much easier to handle + focus (like all "M"s).
Like you, I've gone well over the thousand dollar mark recently for "accessories" but that includes a genuine BG-2 grip for the K10D, an AF 360FGZ flash and the upgrade I mentioned, lenses that are either faster, sharper or are AF zooms to combine a range of focal lengths I commonly use. Most came in at $100.00 or less, except the DA 16-45mm f4.0, which is well worth what I paid in usefulness.
Now if I could just find a buyer for my 28-80mm, 50mm f2.0, 50-200mm, all rated less than 8.0!!!
Ron

[wolfiegirl]

Interesting - I've never seen that lens before. I'm pretty happy with my 90mm atm. Combined with my kx I've managed some wonderful action shots, even on manual focus. Interesting how we're on similar adventures except you're AF focused (har har) and I'm MF focused. I haven't broken my database down to per lens yet, just per purchase, but I still think I'm spending on average around $30-$40 per lens.

My best buy so far (I think) was a M 1.4/50 for $17.50 in a three camera lot which included a helios and a black spottie. Least that's my most recent score. So if you broke down the average it would come to $3.50 (assuming you're breaking down the price per camera and lens) That or the kx, which I got for $220 including memory card, eneloop battery charger and batteries, warranty card and all the normal accessories (cables, manual) included. The kx is in pretty mint condition despite a 12k shutter count. The seller reckoned he only bought it 18 months ago.

Who says scraping the barrel doesn't let you find some gems?

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Last edited by wolfiegirl; 11-12-2011 at 05:50 PM.

[wolfiegirl]

I just did a quick test - took a meter reading with the Sekonic then used a 50 mm lens to fill the frame with the 18% grey card in the same lighting. Whatever the camera suggested (I was in manual mode) for exposure, the Sekonic agreed. It just proves that both are in agreement with each other. I haven't tested for linearity, which is what you are talking about - taking exposures at multiple settings to see if there is a problem with selected apertures or shutter speeds, or testing at different lighting levels.

You are right about the poor sensitivity of the hand-held light meter I have, but I use it for it's intended purposes (calculating lighting ratios and measuring contrast in brightly lit scenes, as well as a simple meter reading).

Well that's reassuring to know that the light meter and the camera agrees. I got a light meter with a camera lot of mine. Guess there's really no need for it eh, considering I don't even know how to use it.

[wolfiegirl]

You know that your brain is infected when:

* You own multiple instances of inventory matching a focal range (20 Twenties, 50 Fifties, etc).
* You can never have too many fisheyes, TCs, macro and mount adapters, lens-in-a-cap's, etc.
* Your spreadsheet tracks presets, multi-iris-blade lenses, average cost per focal length, etc.
* Your spreadsheet contains algorithms to help you select ideal kits for various circumstances.
* You need to refer to your spreadsheet constantly, to be able to communicate on the forums.
* You carry a printout of your spreadsheet with you when you go strolling, just in case...
* Your lens/camera spreadsheet is the single most important data file in your existence.

Love the list Rico.

Looks like there's lots of categories that I missed in my spreadsheet. Could spend an entire day updating that thing!

I love the spreadsheet tracking avg cost per focal length! I've never thought about that. That's like a girl trying to justify her shoe budget for cost per wear or cost per step...

[dgaies]

Love the list Rico.

Looks like there's lots of categories that I missed in my spreadsheet. Could spend an entire day updating that thing!

I love the spreadsheet tracking avg cost per focal length! I've never thought about that. That's like a girl trying to justify her shoe budget for cost per wear or cost per step...

Looks like I need to add a few features to my spreadsheet tonight as well

[excanonfd]

I just did a quick test - took a meter reading with the Sekonic then used a 50 mm lens to fill the frame with the 18% grey card in the same lighting. Whatever the camera suggested (I was in manual mode) for exposure, the Sekonic agreed. It just proves that both are in agreement with each other. I haven't tested for linearity, which is what you are talking about - taking exposures at multiple settings to see if there is a problem with selected apertures or shutter speeds, or testing at different lighting levels.

You are right about the poor sensitivity of the hand-held light meter I have, but I use it for it's intended purposes (calculating lighting ratios and measuring contrast in brightly lit scenes, as well as a simple meter reading).

Thanks for your reply, if you are up to doing a linear test of K-r's metering accuracy, I'd be most interested in your results.

[abacus07]

Exciting... I just won an auction and I actually have no idea what I won. I thought it was a K200/4 when I bid but now I'm convinced that it's a K85-210/4.5 (possibly the 3.5). and two small probably pentax primes. Perhaps I just need to kill my ebay account...

[wolfiegirl]

sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeet

i know it's bad when i receive parcels in the mail and i have *no idea* what they are.

i ended up culling all my ebay auctions to $20 or below. it's helped me bid smarter. and really, it's not like i don't have lenses....

i have enough atm to still be excited every day to see what lens i should try out next. my 135 tak probably needs a bit more love but it's super sunny today and i think the reviews said it doesn't do so great in full sun. actually, i should leave it out there to burn out the fungus... hrmmm

i've got the makinon 28-80 on my k100d atm. so far the inside shots looked lovely but i should put it through its paces to see what else it can give me.... and i should do that now before my next flush of vivis and tammies arrive.....

[RioRico]

Looks like I need to add a few features to my spreadsheet tonight as well

In case anyone is interested, here's what my spreadsheet does:

P1: Record details of all lenses (current and sold), and build basic kit lists. Track counts (total and current) by category (aux, enlarge, mirror, prime, projector, special, TC, zoom) and mount and focus (M39, M42, PK, other, AF, A-type). Track counts (total and current) and costs (total and mean) of all lenses, and by brand, and focus (AF|MF) and focal length. Track misc stuff like sliding lens hoods, presets, many iris blades, etc. Count by nation of origin. Track profit-loss margins.

P2: Record details of all cameras (current and sold) and estimations of those I've lost or disposed of witlessly. Track counts by type (film types or sensor sizes, P&S|RF|ILC|TLR) and brand. Track profit-loss margins. Record some details of misc gear (bags, bellows, batteries, flash|light gear, meters, remotes, tripods, etc).

P3: Record tech details of all digicams: sensor size, megapickles, formats with storage capacities, pixel densit, diffraction limits.

P4: All sorts of misc tables of film and digital frame geometry, AOV per focal length, much other number diddling. Record details of my step-rings and filters.

Some of this was well-planned. Much just happened, and was thrown in whereever some screen space allowed. Really sloppy programming, but it works. So far.

[wolfiegirl]

*eyes spin*
you need to bid more rico.... spend less time in front of that spreadsheet.